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side-by-side, sawed-off shotgun


renegadecow

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I'd put in inner barrels from AEGs. Not TBs mind, just stock ones(6.08 or w/e) and have them as long as possible given your outer barrels.

Well the barrels are 8" and the shell is 2 3/4" so there's roughly about 5" left for the inner barrel. But it looks bad when the muzzle is made too small with the bore still being for a shotgun, so a good 2" shorter should hide the inner barrels. The fps test for the makeshift 3" plastic barrels proved ok though, probably over 250 since the bb's did fly farther than the barrel did, and that's without hop-up still (not that I'm installing a hop-up anyways). But yeah, proper barrels to be installed in the morning.

 

sling me your address and i'll send 'em out free of charge :)

I greatly appreciate the offer, but I've some brass and aluminum barrels here to chop up. I was just curious to know how much an advantage inner barrels would give so I tried the plastic ones first. I didn't actually glue them in, just stuffed them tight with rolls of paper and tape so I could get them out again if they weren't too good.

 

I also couldn't resist but begin on the next project. :P

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Hehe Think I have been giggling for longer than 15 seconds now. That 40mm going to be silly and amazing at the same time.

 

The wooden bits look sweet now you have stained them. I see what you mean about them looking like one chunk of wood. Does it take careful alignment of the grain to get that effect or just careful glueing and sanding?

 

Good luck with the bigger build.

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You guys howling for 40mms make me facepalm :rolleyes:

 

 

 

To make the muzzle "look" good make an inverted dome thingie, cut a hole for the inner barrel, paint it black and use it to seat the inner barrel at the front. This is my plan for another shottie project i have running(that ill never finish) I recon it'll make it look better than having a shiney inner barrel visible, plus you get the longest inner barrel possible (for any gas powered airsoft gun more barrel = more power)

Not sure if i explained that well.

 

kinda like:

 

------------------------

\

00000000000000000

/

------------------------

 

(0s are the inner barrel)

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No bead sight at the moment as its supposed to be lopped off. I would have had posted the completed pics sooner if I wasn't too impatient about drying paint. I had assembled everything the other night only to realize that the paint hadn't cured enough yet as it was practically drizzling all day; had to retouch some parts damaged by my grubby hands.

 

I've installed the inner barrels now. 3" brass inner barrels and they're removable via a screw each so the owner can choose to modify its length or remove them altogether (they're really loud without em).

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*screws hidden underneath, covered by the fore end

 

Painted parts and stained wood with one coat of clear varnish for a semi-gloss effect

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Glamour shots. The shells are TM though as I had plenty of those and only one Tanaka shell left with me.

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edit:

Does it take careful alignment of the grain to get that effect or just careful glueing and sanding?

Just eyeballing it works. Make sure that all layers have the grain pointing to the same direction and don't use parts of the wood where obvious differences would be noticed like parts with knots and change in grain quality. You have to squeeze them tight with vices when gluing to get as much of the glue out between the layers. Pockets of glue or having the glue set thick will show upon staining. Sanding it is all about following the direction of the grain before finishing, gradually increasing in grit #. I start with 60 for shaping and just sand in every which direction, then move on to 100 starting to follow the grain, 200 then 600 likewise.

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Just eyeballing it works. Make sure that all layers have the grain pointing to the same direction and don't use parts of the wood where obvious differences would be noticed like parts with knots and change in grain quality. You have to squeeze them tight with vices when gluing to get as much of the glue out between the layers. Pockets of glue or having the glue set thick will show upon staining. Sanding it is all about following the direction of the grain before finishing, gradually increasing in grit #. I start with 60 for shaping and just sand in every which direction, then move on to 100 starting to follow the grain, 200 then 600 likewise.

 

Ah ok. Thanks for that. Might have to give that a try. Just need some thing to build now :)

 

Looks fantastic. Well done on a very good looking build.

 

 

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Thanks guys! :D

 

will you be making your 40mm in the style of the 'force-a-nature' (very short barrels and a short full stock)?

I'm actually not very sure yet. Right now I'm thinking a sawed stock like the "Randal" custom winchester where the stock is cut a couple of inches after the pistol grip ends. Still designing the action if its going to be scaled up like an M79 or keep it with shotgun parts but with jumbo barrels.

 

Fps with barrels? cheers

A little more than the 250 I expected. Kinda stings though since there's 3 on em in a tight group (point blank) but they spread quick after 15m.

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damn, thats sick!

how much did it cost to build it?

can you post up blueprints (or sketches) and measurements? i REALLY want to build one.

 

if anyone wants to know, all redwolf does to make the converted tanakas is take out the inner barrel and shell stopper, nothing else. the shells are held in by the ridges of the chamber and extractor and fire directly and only from the shell.

 

i look to use madbull shells.

 

or, if its more interesting for you, how much would it take to commission you for the build? you can PM me, but i probably wont be able to pay for it for a while.

 

can we see pics of it being handled by someone?

 

one more thing, the reason the shells fire off fine with normal depression of the button is because when the valve creeps open, the millisecond the gas starts flowing the valve is forced completely open to let the rest of the gas out. it really is just a small grenade.

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