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Plastic 7mm Version 2 Gearbox - Initial Impressions


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So I got it tonight and I figured I would do some initial playing with it. Packaging was nothing special and there is zero indication of brand. Inside was the gearbox shell, a set of screws and nuts and an allen key and two grip screw brackets.

 

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Upon initial inspection, it seems strong but also a bit laterally (is that correct) flexy.

 

The grip brackets are metal and I tested with regular grip screws because it did not come with any. They fit and hold fine, but I can't tell if there's threading inside or it's just machine marks and they are held in by tension.

 

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Go to pop them in. One fits, the other does not. The molding in what is traditionally the bottom half, has plastic in the way where the securing nut hole is. About 5 minutes of gentle filing and it fits.

 

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So like, where are the wires supposed to come out? I guess I could only use one bracket. Might be OK for an MP5 but for an M4 where the grip is only held on by these two screws, I don't know if both on one side is a good idea.

 

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I got some 7mm bearings from Paul too, they fit really well.

 

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So lets shim! I got a nice new set of stock Element gears that need a home (my goal is to build it all with low end stuff).

 

Gear, gear, gear, shim, shim, shim, screw, screw screw and sp... They won't spin. They spin meh unscrewed but tightened nope.

 

Gear, gear, gear, shim, shim, shim, screw, screw screw. Nope.

 

OK. Only necessary shims. Get the gears off the bottom shell and a hair away from each other and forget the top shimming. Tighten down and meh +1.

 

The shell is too flexy. I'm tighening all the play out of it. I suppose I can just tighten the screws a little and locktite them in place. That will be fun.

 

I put in a metal cylinder head and a cylinder and they seem to fit fine. The piston rails allow the piston to move freely (they are bone dry still). I continued with a metal V2 spring guide and an M120 spring. Installed, it's putting so much flex, the halves of the top screws are separating. I can squeeze them together by hand and get them tight, but I think that's stresses in all the wrong places.

 

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The shell fits snugly into a TM plastic lower I had laying around.

 

That's all for now. I need to get a wiring harness and all the other bits, but I'm still not sure where the wires are going to go.

 

Let me know if you have any specific questions. I'll do more with it in the nights to come.

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Where did you get this from? Never knew they made a V2 plastic gearbox XD.

 

It's a follow up to this thread: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...howtopic=175457

 

Other than the wiring issue, would it be possible to make a sort of gasket out of something (like say a couple layers of paper) to widen the area around the gears so that you can shim it properly?

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What it needs is a brace in the middle to keep the halves separated, but there's no room for that.

 

So I tried something else. I shimmed it (a bit looser than normal for me) and I put the cylinder head and cylinder in for structural support and then I put in ALL the screws not just 3.

 

Limited success. The gear now spin almost a full revolution (ungreased) when I spin them with a small screwdriver. I've worked with worse, so I'm going to continue, but now I need a drill press to make holes in the grip mount brackets for the motor wires and that won't happen until this weekend

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Well, my TM G3SAS had been down so I figured why not? Pulled out the old upgraded TM gearbox (hey, it's cracked!) and loaded the parts into the new one. Everything fit pretty good, but some of the tiny interior screws are self tapping I think, that may be OK for metal, but if you take them in and out repeatedly, you'll probably strip out all the plastic.

 

I used a probe to scratch where the wires needed to go in the bottom bracket and then dremeled out two small sections. Everything went together pretty well (some of the 7mm bearings are way tight on the gearshafts). I tightened all the shell screws hand tight.

 

I'm using an 8.4v battery with Elite 1500 cells. EG1000 motor and a M115 spring. No bearings on the Piston Head or Spring Guide (a spring guide with flat extensions would not fit, I needed round like what Systema has).

 

Unfortunately, my chrono is at a friends. I'll chrono on Friday. But I'm guessing 360-390 fro the range. ROF seems about 10-12 ish. It is having some problems on semi. Sometimes nothing happens, sometime semi, sometimes it goes full auto.

 

I'm going to put some rounds thru it and I will keep doing it. I have a zombie game on Nov 7th and I'll use it as my primary and see how it does.

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Well, my TM G3SAS had been down so I figured why not? Pulled out the old upgraded TM gearbox (hey, it's cracked!) and loaded the parts into the new one. Everything fit pretty good, but some of the tiny interior screws are self tapping I think, that may be OK for metal, but if you take them in and out repeatedly, you'll probably strip out all the plastic.

 

I used a probe to scratch where the wires needed to go in the bottom bracket and then dremeled out two small sections. Everything went together pretty well (some of the 7mm bearings are way tight on the gearshafts). I tightened all the shell screws hand tight.

 

I'm using an 8.4v battery with Elite 1500 cells. EG1000 motor and a M115 spring. No bearings on the Piston Head or Spring Guide (a spring guide with flat extensions would not fit, I needed round like what Systema has).

 

Unfortunately, my chrono is at a friends. I'll chrono on Friday. But I'm guessing 360-390 fro the range. ROF seems about 10-12 ish. It is having some problems on semi. Sometimes nothing happens, sometime semi, sometimes it goes full auto.

 

I'm going to put some rounds thru it and I will keep doing it. I have a zombie game on Nov 7th and I'll use it as my primary and see how it does.

 

God speed, my good man. I hope that plastic gearbox lasts as long as my hopes for it (which at one point before reading this review was quite high).

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