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08kecarv

King Arms KAC SR16-E3

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Nice link ;)

 

As you can see a lot of the issues that I talked about has been revised and fixed in that video sans the rail covers (some duct tape will fix that). Overall its a very nice gun as you can see in the video and damn I didn't know it shot 380!!! :P Oh well, perfect for where I play (400 FPS limit).

 

I'm thinking about making a short video review just highlighting parts of interest/concern on the gun but I'm just trying to source a good enough camera so that the video quality will be good enough.

 

 

Oh, I forgot to mention that mine didn't come with a battery so I'm guessing that maybe he got a production model?

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Tested the gun on a full battery, works like a charm.

 

The steel parts of the gun (there's a LOT of those) are turning slightly brown, from rust I suppose. However thats the fault of King Arms, I can blame that on the humidity down here in Hawai'i :P

 

I also tried fitting a bunch of different goodies to the rails to see if they would fit and if they would affect the finish. Surprisingly the finish stayed intact and there wasn't any silver peeking through. Everything also fit nice and snug on the rails with no wobble.

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Hmm

 

I wonder if the VFc is worth the extra 30, something tells me yes

 

I thought so too but after buying the VFC one, I'm not that sure anymore. My VFC has some serious play between upper and lower receiver, and the selector on the right is hanging loose (can't turn the screw any further). Pehaps it's just my luck again and I'm stuck with a lemon, but I expected more from a VFC.

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Funnily enough the real SR15 has play between upper and lower. Titleist complained about his a fair bit before KAC fixed it the first time. I've noticed a little on my VFC's too, but nothing horrible.

 

I can report that for the 16" barrel, anything from a 433mm to a 455mm inner barrel will be optimum.

~ A 433mm inner barrel will extend the inner barrel just past the end of the 16" outer barrel but you won't be able to see the inner barrel through the vents of a regular A2 birdcage FH. * My preference!

~ A 455mm inner barrel will extend the inner barrel to the tip of a KAC Triple Tap Brake (TTB) but will probably go past the end of a regular A2 birdcage FH. Go with this if you want the absolute maximum length for maximum range. Of course a longer FH (like a CA556 Muzzle Brake) will accomodate a longer inner barrel than suggested here.

 

For the 11.5" barrel, a 300mm inner barrel will be optimum.

~ A 300mm inner barrel will extend the inner barrel just past the end of the 11.5" outer barrel but you won't be able to see the inner barrel through the vents of a regular A2 birdcage FH.

~ Unfortunately, there aren't any commercially available barrels that allow you to extend the inner barrel to the end of an A2 birdcage or a TTB. The next common step up from a 300mm barrel is the 363mm or 365mm used for M4A1's which is too long. If you need to have a barrel extend to the end of a TTB, you'll probably have to modify a 363mm.

 

Generally, I prefer KM inner barrels over all others. Even though KM barrels have 6.04mm inner diameter are not as tight as Prometheus' and various other makers' 6.03mm barrels, I feel KM barrels excel thanks to their quality and how they treat their barrels. I get fantastic range with my KM barrels that exceed that of my Prometheus barrels.

So I would recommend the following KM barrels depending on what length you need:

• 433mm KM Barrel

455mm KM Barrel (this is discontinued at most places, so you can get a Promethues 455mm barrel instead).

300mm KM Barrel

 

Hope that helps.

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Well I can say that with the KA there's literally no play at all between receivers. I think the main difference between the VFC and the KA would be :

 

1. the price (marginal)

2. Finish (VFC more realistic)

3. the name

 

 

I got some play time with it today at a game and it performs flawlessly. Very accurate within shorter ranges (I didn't get a chance to test it farther as the field I have to play at has very limited engagement distances). I was getting accurate head sized shots at 110'. How do I know?? Well, lets just say it was the only body part he had sticking out :P ROF is great but I literally ONLY used semi and only went through about 4.5 midcaps tonight (not bad for 4.5 hours of speedballing). On a sadder note though, my EOTech cracked (*^%#@^*$) :( , good thing I ordered another T-1.

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I got mine today. :P Few things to say. The rail panels are really loose so just get some other ones. Use them for stippling practice.

The KAC style VFG is better than i thought, but it's a no keeper. Stock is really really wobbly.

 

Everything is rock solid. No wobble between upper and lower. QD sling attachment points are all very solid. The Sling point itself is very nice.

The front sight has a very nice locking feature. Doesn't fold up easily. But the button needs to be depressed to deploy and put the front site back.

I found the rear sight quite disappointing. There's a lot of plastic on it. Especially the rotating drum. But it's better than nothing eh?

 

Mag fitment:

The hi-cap the gun came with fit fine, drops out easily when mag catch is depressed.

Same for MAG mags.

But Classic Army mags needed the mag well sanded down at the front and rear. There's a little bulge bit. I sanded it down then colored it with a black marker. That was all i had at the time. Works pretty well though. Hell who's gonna care if you're mag well looks good?

 

My Aimpoint T-1 fit with no problemo. I like it on the SR-15. Now all i need is a Magpul ASAP, CTR, MIAD, KAC handstop replica/ LaRue FUG replica/Magpul AFG(Come on! It's mind December now!), tan KAC rail covers, ladder rail covers, G&P Knights Triple Tap Comp, and a few Pmags. :P

 

Have fun airsofting and Merry Christmas.

 

Edit: Btw, does anyone know how to take this thing apart? I only want to know how to separate upper and lower. And does anyone know if a madbull hop up would fit? *Must have no BBs dropping out of mag well for ultimate mil-sim :D *

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You're gonna have one hell of a time getting her apart Alston :P I know I did.

 

You need to first pull out the front pin (not all the way out, only till it catches). After having done that, you need to pull the charging handle while simultaneously pushing the bolt catch down. Make sure that you hold them like that for the duration of the disassembly. Now heres the tricky part; While you're doing the steps mentioned above you need to try and slide the upper forward off the lower receiver. It may come off easily for your or it may be very difficult as it was for me. Make sure you hold the bolt catch down so that the catch mech doesn't get ground down by the receiver and the bits in there. It'll take a lot of fiddling but once you get it lined up just right it'll slide right off, but its the fiddling and trying thats the difficult, frustrating part, especially since the receiver likes to pretend its coming off then it'll get stuck on something :P

 

Re-assembly is a little difficult as well due to the mock bolt constantly flipping out of place. You need to again hold the bolt catch down and pull the charging handle back, but keep in mind, there's nothing holding the bolt in place so you're gonna have to hold it there with your finger. Attempt to slide the upper back onto the lower while making sure everything is in place. This is a good time to mention to make sure you keep and eye out on your dust cover as it likes to get in the way and impede upon your re-assembly. Again, just like disassembly, re-assembly takes a fair bit of fiddling around with things to make sure they get lined up just right.

 

If you wanted to disassemble your gun further, the steps are the same as any other AR platform from there on out. Keep in mind though that when you re-install the GB into the body, that as well will take a fair bit of fiddling with to get the gears lined up just right for the right side selector switch.

 

As far as the stock goes; Just put some tape under it and you'll notice the difference. Same goes for the rail covers as well.

 

Be advised: the pin holding the bolt catch in place is a little loose, meaning it likes to come out of place (you don't want to lose it...). Put a little glue on the pin or over the end of it to ensure it stays put.

 

 

I think I'm though only other person who has a KA SR15, Alston, so I guess we'll be talking to each other a lot eh? :P

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I found the rear sight quite disappointing. There's a lot of plastic on it. Especially the rotating drum.

Seriously? Plastic? Would it really have been that much more expensive to do the rear sight properly? :huh:

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Thats strange because mine is full metal and actually has a lot of steel on it. You sure the store didn't just swap out the sights for something of lesser quality?

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They shouldn't have done. I saw them took the box out of a big crate of KA SR-15s :P. Then they just took it outta the box and i test fired it and made sure everything was fine.

It's 4:43 AM i should really go to sleep after playing that much "Saboteur". I'll take some pics tomorrow. Something worthy to put into the Knights Armament thread finally...

 

If disassembling is that difficult then i might as well only take it apart when something breaks. Cheers for the info anyway. Especially the bolt catch bit.

 

Edit: Spells... My fingers got numb because of the cold temp. :D

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Are you talking about the thickness of the walls of the receiver or the dimensions of the receiver and pit them against each other and their real steel counterpart (sorry for the long sentence)?

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Hey anyone happen to know what threads the barrel uses? I would assume negative threads, trying to remove my standard fh but it wont screw to any direction. It seems to be loctided too.

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Heh, i was watching that one too oon Ehobby. The price it's at right now ... whow.

 

I think anything like that PAS 7.4V Stock Pipe type will do. You just have to watch the length. An AK stick type will be too long.

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