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G&P sentry (vltor)


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It's a DD Lite 7.0 rail - G&P sell the front end separately, available on Ehobbyasia among other places. They also do a 9.0 i believe, listed as a 'defender' front set, and they also sell just the rail without the barrel assembly, but with an attached short or long M203.

 

Annoyingly, you'll need to get both the 7.0 or 9.0 rail with either a barrel assembly or M203, they don't sell the rail systems separately.

 

Ah thanks, I'll take a look around the web and see if anyone else does them, E-H-A don't have much stock atm.

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It's a DD Lite 7.0 rail - G&P sell the front end separately, available on Ehobbyasia among other places. They also do a 9.0 i believe, listed as a 'defender' front set, and they also sell just the rail without the barrel assembly, but with an attached short or long M203.

 

Annoyingly, you'll need to get both the 7.0 or 9.0 rail with either a barrel assembly or M203, they don't sell the rail systems separately.

 

the "defender" fron set is actually slightly different than the 9.0 lite rail, the defender set is a replica of the daniel defense 9.5 inch mk18 ris II, which is in use by the us navy seals. (that is why the G&P defender m4 has the navy seal trades, which ironically happen to be fake) you can check out the difference between the two rails right here.

http://www.danieldefense.com/?page=shop/browse&category=railsystems

 

other airsoft brands also make replicas of the daniel defense rails as well.

7 inch lite

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_37&products_id=4746

9 inch lite

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_37&products_id=4747

mk18 risII (9.5)

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_37&products_id=5877

 

the three above linked rails are suposedly cnc'ed, and are fully licensed, so the trades are completely legal, at least in the U.S. there are also other makers of the DD rails which are available on ebaybanned, ehobbyasia, etc.

also note, the above linked socom gear rails are threaded to real steel spec, and will not fit on G&P revievers without modification, however they should work fine on other recievers such as wa, we, vfc, madbull, and maybe even others, but those are some that they will work with. hopefully that didn't just defeat the point of my entire post, but since they were a good reference, I thought I would include them.biggrin.gif

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Yup, got problem locking in semi too, really strange! Sometime it's fine, and sometimes it will block for no reason. Using 8.4V too and changed the front set/hop up, but I know that's not what causing the problem.

I opened my gearbox though, and it was completely fine, I have no idea why it would be locking...

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For budget reasons, I think I'm going to pick one of these up rather than the VFC I had set my pretty little heart on. Seems like a great compromise between $$ and performance and looks.

 

Any particular areas where it needs immediate upgrade? I read through the hop-up discussion in this thread, but can't tell if that's a necessary or nice to have upgrade. I'm sure I'll do it regardless, it's just a question of now or later.

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There are no "needed" upgrades. It shoots nice as stock. I had to put a Guarder SP90 spring to comply with site rules here and as it was opened I put an Element H nub in it, but for a start you need nothing.

 

I switched to 0.25s for good though.

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From what I've read you can expect locks in pretty much any kind of M4 if you fire in semi too fast. It's solved by a short auto burst.

 

Maybe but that never happened on my G&P Defender M4 gearbox. The only difference I saw gearbox wise was a slightly different trigger/contact system. I wonder if it could be that. :huh:

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so i'm thinking of getting a sentry....

 

two questions:

 

1)

shops here in hong kong sell all 8 versions (tan/black; 10.5"/14.5"; magpul/vltor).

magpul/vltor are both the same price by the way:

14.5" is 204 pounds / 295 us dollars / 2300 hong kong dollars

10.5" is 173 pounds / 250 us dollars / 1950 hong kong dollars

ive already decided on getting tan, but should i get magpul lower or vltor lower? and what length if i want something best in outdoors (not necessarily woodland) and decent in cqb?

 

2)

Ecthelion's youtube review shows that the sentry gets 24rps with a good 7.4v lipo (i didnt expect that). but what upgrades could/should i do to the gun if i want 30 rps or even higher? this is only a consideration, so if its too expensive (over 1000 hkd / 130usd / 88 pounds or so) for all the upgrades then i will probably ditch that idea.

 

thanks in advance!

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so i'm thinking of getting a sentry....

 

two questions:

 

1)

shops here in hong kong sell all 8 versions (tan/black; 10.5"/14.5"; magpul/vltor).

magpul/vltor are both the same price by the way:

14.5" is 204 pounds / 295 us dollars / 2300 hong kong dollars

10.5" is 173 pounds / 250 us dollars / 1950 hong kong dollars

ive already decided on getting tan, but should i get magpul lower or vltor lower? and what length if i want something best in outdoors (not necessarily woodland) and decent in cqb?

Magpul over Vltor is just a cosmetic decision. If for any reason you prefer Magpul, then get it. Practicality wise they are identical. I got the Vltor one.

From what I've seen the 10.5" will cover both your needs aplenty. In its stock form my 10.5" shot at 375FPS and had the range of any other long weapon out there, and more than some. Being the shortest, it's without a doubt the best for CQB. Weight is also something you should consider. The 10.5" is very easy to carry around and face quickly when needed.

Edited by Wingmann
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Well, definitely the MAG metal 190-rounders DON'T feed my Sentry properly. I got five of them and already sold two to a gaming buddy. I'm saving three just in case there's some mode I can try with them.

 

Problem: I insert the magazine, fire in semi, BB falls out of the barrel at 15m or so. Keep shooting, same deal. Press the mag UP, nothing changes.

Take mag off, insert again, AUTO fire, it shoots straight. Change to semi, it might shoot straight or not.

Press the mag up and forward (to be sure the feeding hole is well into the hop), same deal, BBs fall out of the gun instead of being shot from it.

 

So, it feeds, as the BBs reach the hop unit, but then they are shot without force, falling extremely short. If I'm not wrong, the hop tube fills up with BBs, so how's it possible for them not to be fired properly? How can a mag affect that as long as the BBs go up?

 

I saw some feeding problems being solved by filing the nub, but in my case BBs are going up no problem.

 

The main difference between MAG and G&P magazines is the plastic nip the MAG ones have so even the last BB is pushed up to the hop. G&P mags keep the last BB inside. Could it be that the nip exerts too much pressure on the BBs inside the hop tube, messing how they enter the bucking?

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Problem: I insert the magazine, fire in semi, BB falls out of the barrel at 15m or so. Keep shooting, same deal. Press the mag UP, nothing changes.

Take mag off, insert again, AUTO fire, it shoots straight. Change to semi, it might shoot straight or not.

Press the mag up and forward (to be sure the feeding hole is well into the hop), same deal, BBs fall out of the gun instead of being shot from it.

 

So, it feeds, as the BBs reach the hop unit, but then they are shot without force, falling extremely short. If I'm not wrong, the hop tube fills up with BBs, so how's it possible for them not to be fired properly? How can a mag affect that as long as the BBs go up?

 

 

A very simple reason behind that particular issue dude - Some magazines don't sit correctly in the mag well, or have the feed chute a little further than normal. That can push the Hop unit away from the gearbox nozzle, causing feeding and FPS issues. It's a great reason why noone should ever grip the magazine, ever - Grabbing the magazine pushes the mag back, which pushes the hop away from the nozzle. Sounds to me like your magazines are causing a similar issue by pushing the hop away from the gearbox nozzle a little, causing a loss in air-seal.

Edited by hwagan
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1)

shops here in hong kong sell all 8 versions (tan/black; 10.5"/14.5"; magpul/vltor).

magpul/vltor are both the same price by the way:

14.5" is 204 pounds / 295 us dollars / 2300 hong kong dollars

10.5" is 173 pounds / 250 us dollars / 1950 hong kong dollars

ive already decided on getting tan, but should i get magpul lower or vltor lower? and what length if i want something best in outdoors (not necessarily woodland) and decent in cqb?

 

Hey, just to help you out a little, the price of the Sentry (Vltor, not Magpul) at Tokyo Model Company is HKD1880. That's the price they listed last time I went there, which was about 2 weeks ago. The price is for the 10.5" model I think, I don't recall seeing any 14.5" Sentrys.

 

I didn't ask if they had any in stock though.

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A very simple reason behind that particular issue dude - Some magazines don't sit correctly in the mag well, or have the feed chute a little further than normal. That can push the Hop unit away from the gearbox nozzle, causing feeding and FPS issues. It's a great reason why noone should ever grip the magazine, ever - Grabbing the magazine pushes the mag back, which pushes the hop away from the nozzle. Sounds to me like your magazines are causing a similar issue by pushing the hop away from the gearbox nozzle a little, causing a loss in air-seal.

The explanation about the hop and nozzle being a tad apart makes sense, although once upper and lower are mounted there seems to be no play between the hop and the front of the gearbox. I guess any minimal play is enough to affect shooting that badly.

I don't grasp the magazines anyway, I have a foregrip for that :)

 

 

Dimensions of the chute are correct, but the metal case itself is way off. What I did was take the upper off and insert the original magazine to see how the chute correlated with the nozzle, then compared with the MAG ones. MAGs were definitely not sitting properly and that caused the chute to be all over the place. In order to keep the front squared side of the magazine sitting properly against the mag well front I had to add 2mm (!) of filler at the back of the mags. I made a short test yesterday and it seems to work. After several mag changes the chute still ends right below the nozzle, where it should.

 

Thanks for the tip on hop/nozzle :)

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Well, placed my order. Also decided to make the jump to lipos while I was at it. I think I won't be disappointed with these decisions!

Believe me, you won't. You'll flip out when you shoot it in auto with a 7.4 LiPo :) (clean it throughly first, specially the barrel!)

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Just shot the gun. All i can say is wow. Running a 9.6v the ROF is literally stupid. Amazingly all my mags are keeping up. Second thing is that the hop up unit although stiff is extremely good. I am getting awesome accuracy and even better range. I shot some rounds into my field at a tree marked at 70 yards away(using a range finder). The bb's were pretty easily reaching that distance yet naturally accuracy was pretty useless at this range. I also have the locking problem and its annoying but only really happens if your trigger discipline is poor. All in all this is without a doubt the nicest looking and best performing gun i have ever used. Very happy!

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All i can say is wow. Running a 9.6v the ROF is literally stupid.

I mostly play in a site that restricts auto to short bursts. Having a replica that shoots 5 BBs in a really short burst is something nice to have there :D

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Believe me, you won't. You'll flip out when you shoot it in auto with a 7.4 LiPo :) (clean it throughly first, specially the barrel!)

 

Yeah, are there any areas where it needs special attention in terms of lube? One of the reasons I've tried to stray from AEGs is that I'm death to gearboxes, so I'm not planning to open it unless I absolutely have to.

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