SwatMP5man Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 Despite yesterday being the perfect weatehr for it i didn't get to test my Sentry as much as I wanted. Damn Zeroone bb's not feeding correctly, not only in the sentry but also in my ACR. As a result i ended up using my pistol for most of the day. When i did the get the chance to borrow some mags it fired beautifully so for the next game i'll have a different brand of bb's and i should be sorted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 Despite yesterday being the perfect weatehr for it i didn't get to test my Sentry as much as I wanted. Damn Zeroone bb's not feeding correctly, not only in the sentry but also in my ACR. As a result i ended up using my pistol for most of the day. When i did the get the chance to borrow some mags it fired beautifully so for the next game i'll have a different brand of bb's and i should be sorted.   Bin the ZeroOne advert, kate moss's breasts are more rounded   Get some Blaster 0.25's in there and you'll be spitting lasers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SwatMP5man Posted April 25, 2011 Report Share Posted April 25, 2011 Aye, the site only sold Z1 bb's, so was kind of stuck with them. Are the Blaster Devils any improvement over the standard Blasters, or are they mainly designed for the more accurate DMR/Sniper market? Next time i'll be fielding this beauty will be the Stirling Airsoft Op: Storm King so don't want any problems coming up then. Â Also, is anyone elses charging handle/faux bolt plate stiff to pull back and unable to return of its own accord? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 The Blaster devils are really aimed at the sniping/DMR market, but to be honest having used both in the .25 flavour, i couldn't find any noticeable difference. Both feed flawlessly, no jams, consistent shots... Seeing as the standard Blaster .25's work fine, i wouldn't bother paying out the extra. Â As for the charging handle, a little bit of silicone oil on the back of it may help - They take a little wearing in as there's not a lot of room for them to move against the gearbox! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sigma3 Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 I had my first real "issue" with my Sentry this past weekend. I put it in quotes because it's a pretty laughable problem, although still annoying.  I ran into contact, turned to fire, got off like two shots in a burst, and then heard that horrible shrieking sound you get when your motor has disengaged. Discovered that my motor had dropped off. The cause was the two hex screws in the bottom of the grip, both of which had become loose and backed out. After the game, found a hex wrench set and tightened them back up, and it's good as new – but just something to maybe look out for, guys! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkerry2782 Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Got an new sentry and it is firing at 233fps out of the box Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bladerunner168 Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Check your hop and all hop related components, could be an air seal problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jamanyar Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 My G&P MRP wasn't feeding properly out the box (jamming on every time) Â Hop rubber hadn't been installed properly. Â sometimes quality control slips a little. Â But as Bladerunner said first thing to check it the hop unit and make sure everything is as it should be. Â J. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Got an new sentry and it is firing at 233fps out of the box   Send it back to the retailer under warranty would be the sensible thing to do - Still, it's probably a simple issue; I assume that's 233FPS with a 0.2 BB? Check the hop etc, and particularly make sure there's a spring either around the inner barrel in front of the hop unit or sticking out on top of it - If that spring is missing it can cause an airleak. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkerry2782 Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 i too it apart today and it seems to just a over soft spring causing the issue as there is lots of air seal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 i too it apart today and it seems to just a over soft spring causing the issue as there is lots of air seal   That doesn't make an awful lot of sense; You mean the seal is fine but the spring is weak? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harborne blue Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 I had my first real "issue" with my Sentry this past weekend. I put it in quotes because it's a pretty laughable problem, although still annoying.  I ran into contact, turned to fire, got off like two shots in a burst, and then heard that horrible shrieking sound you get when your motor has disengaged. Discovered that my motor had dropped off. The cause was the two hex screws in the bottom of the grip, both of which had become loose and backed out. After the game, found a hex wrench set and tightened them back up, and it's good as new – but just something to maybe look out for, guys!  I've got motor issues since switching to Lipo's - any prologed FA fire and the motor alignment shifts and she jams up. Got the adjuster plate all the way in so am going to try a new grip (think it may be the base plate screw shifting) and possibly a FET. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 I've got motor issues since switching to Lipo's - any prologed FA fire and the motor alignment shifts and she jams up. Got the adjuster plate all the way in so am going to try a new grip (think it may be the base plate screw shifting) and possibly a FET. Â Â Tango down grip. G&P's version if it just seems odd when it comes to wiring within the grip and room for the motor to move. I've seen a couple of sentries with electrical issues that have disappeared once the grip has been changed; There's not really enough room for the wiring and motor to move freely as they should in the grip - Have a look at the brass thread inserts as well, if one of those is loose you should be able to sort it with a bit of loctite. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 (edited) Actually, it's perfectly possible to align and set the motor in the original grip. It's just a little tricky. For starters, both cables have to be routed by the back side of the grip. If any of them goes through the front the motor won't fit correctly and the screw won't do anything. Also, the extra portions of cable that you might have have to be tucked away in a manner that they don't A.- block the upside-down movement range of the motor and B.- don't push the motor when the base plate is on, therefore making the screw useless. Â When you are able to screw the base plate on easily you most likely have it right. Any trouble aligning the screws probably indicates a bad setup. Edited June 13, 2011 by Wingmann Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Ignore me then, i just give up too easily! Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Ignore me then, i just give up too easily! A new grip would save some the hassle. Having options is always a good thing, specially for the non-mechanically adept crowd . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Hey, i'm mechanically adept! But the grip has wires, and i suck at electronics.. Â Still, good to know the TD grip isn't the cause of the issue at least Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul 8v Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 I've got one of the Sentrys, great gun but for some reason it doesn't like feeding BBs on semi auto, works every time on full auto though, weird! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 I've got one of the Sentrys, great gun but for some reason it doesn't like feeding BBs on semi auto, works every time on full auto though, weird! Â Â Probably a simple fix; What's the hop performance like? What battery are you using? What brand of magazines? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul 8v Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 I'm not sure how to check the hop performance, I'm using a normal battery not a lipo, I think it's an 8.6 and the main mags I use are Ares ones as no-where had any G and P ones! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 I'm not sure how to check the hop performance, I'm using a normal battery not a lipo, I think it's an 8.6 and the main mags I use are Ares ones as no-where had any G and P ones!   Basically just whether the BB's fly straight to a decent distance with reasonable accuracy.  Battery *could* be causing the issue, but it's unlikely if it's a decent MaH 8.4  My best guess is the ARES mags, i've had problems with them in several G&P's. Are they loose in the magwell? Plastic or metal? And for the future, www.landwarriorairsoft.com have the G&P mags for £12 a pop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul 8v Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Thanks Hwagen, I'll check the hop out, the mags do sit a bit lose to be fair I was actually going to get them from land warrior but they were out of stock, everywhere seemed to have Hi caps only at the time so I went for the used ares ones, at least they were cheap :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sxheero Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Just bought a used G&P Sentry (Black) Magpul Lower... so excited!! It arrived in excellent external condition and came with the following mods: SHS 7 metal tooth piston short-stroked by 2 teeth, an XYT bevel gear (the G&P one only had 2 ARL notches which was annoying, so I replaced it) a 3034 Mosfet with 25a HunterSeeker Armories Polyfuse. Systema bucking and element H-Nub installed Haven't bought the battery yet, but I figure I will run a 7.4 rather than an 11.1 in order to maintain some durability. Very excited to compare this gun to my KWA SR-10, Marui CQB-R (which has the best range of any stock gun I have used), and Magpul PTS Masada. Will let you guys know the results. In the meantime... any battery suggestions/links to US sites with these batteries? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 In the meantime... any battery suggestions/links to US sites with these batteries? Here's a strong recommendation. Excellent products, low prices, and good service: http://www.eliteairsoftbatteries.com/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sxheero Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 Hope I can get some help here -  I'm currently attempting to swap out the short barrel of my G&P Sentry to that of a standard m4 length. Ive got the fake gas tube and sight off no problem, but now I'm stuck  I have the laylax armorer's wrench and I cannot get the barrel nut off... does it come off by twisting counter-clockwise or clockwise? Are there any little tricks like heating it up with a hairdryer? I bought the longer barrel thinking this would be an easy swap, but no such luck  I bought a Madbull 14.5 Noveske outer - I hope this is going to work!  Any help is greatly appreciated... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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