hwagan Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 Hope I can get some help here - I'm currently attempting to swap out the short barrel of my G&P Sentry to that of a standard m4 length. Ive got the fake gas tube and sight off no problem, but now I'm stuck I have the laylax armorer's wrench and I cannot get the barrel nut off... does it come off by twisting counter-clockwise or clockwise? Are there any little tricks like heating it up with a hairdryer? I bought the longer barrel thinking this would be an easy swap, but no such luck I bought a Madbull 14.5 Noveske outer - I hope this is going to work! Any help is greatly appreciated... Basically, force is required. A LOT of force. You're going to be turning it anti-clockwise to remove it. G&P loctite the thread, and i've found the best technique is to secure the upper receiver (between your knees or similar), and smack the buggery out of the wrench with a hammer until it moves. I've heard of people boiling or heating the nut to get it off, but I've never tried this method. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harborne blue Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 Tango down grip. G&P's version if it just seems odd when it comes to wiring within the grip and room for the motor to move. I've seen a couple of sentries with electrical issues that have disappeared once the grip has been changed; There's not really enough room for the wiring and motor to move freely as they should in the grip - Have a look at the brass thread inserts as well, if one of those is loose you should be able to sort it with a bit of loctite. Correction - fitted the Magpul MOE grip and found that the pinion gear on the motor was somewhat chopped up. New motor now on the way. This first happened when I accidentally put a long FA burst out (am always knocking the flaming selector with my thumb!) so I suspect that a slightly incorrect motor alignment was to blame. BTW the MOE grip is a MUCH better fit and feel than the TD. No idea why on a magpul gun, they don't fit a Magpul grip?! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 (edited) Yes, the nut unscrews normally (the way you're used to). Obviously, the rail is a copy of a Daniel Defense design. DD make a special nut wrench that fits into those four small square cut-outs. *Unfortunately*, G&P's dimensions are not quite accurate, and the RS wrench does not work (it fits perfectly on Mad Bull's versions of the DD rails, however, FWIW). That being the case, you need to find some implement/tool that you can wedge/clamp on to the nut that will give you some good leverage. The Sentry I bought from EHA didn't have its nut loctited, it was just screwed on tight. In my experience, you just need to overcome that very first bit of tightness; after that it will unscrew easily. If you protect the finish with tape/rags, you may want to try some long-handled channel-locks on the nut, though again in my experience it's hard to get the protection not to move before the actual nut. If your armorer's wrench is the conventional design, it may not give you many options, and you may want to visit the toolbox. I've found a rubber-headed mallet useful for hitting the end of whatever I've got holding the nut. The Mad Bull Noveske barrel should fit no problem at all. Just remember that G&P threads are different pitch/size, so if you fit, say, a MB rail, you need the special G&P barrel nut. Also, thread on end of G&P barrel is CW, whereas most others are CCW, so you won't be able to swap over your flash hider without an adaptor part. Edited July 4, 2011 by mimesis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sxheero Posted July 5, 2011 Report Share Posted July 5, 2011 Yes, the nut unscrews normally (the way you're used to). Obviously, the rail is a copy of a Daniel Defense design. DD make a special nut wrench that fits into those four small square cut-outs. *Unfortunately*, G&P's dimensions are not quite accurate, and the RS wrench does not work (it fits perfectly on Mad Bull's versions of the DD rails, however, FWIW). That being the case, you need to find some implement/tool that you can wedge/clamp on to the nut that will give you some good leverage. The Sentry I bought from EHA didn't have its nut loctited, it was just screwed on tight. In my experience, you just need to overcome that very first bit of tightness; after that it will unscrew easily. If you protect the finish with tape/rags, you may want to try some long-handled channel-locks on the nut, though again in my experience it's hard to get the protection not to move before the actual nut. If your armorer's wrench is the conventional design, it may not give you many options, and you may want to visit the toolbox. I've found a rubber-headed mallet useful for hitting the end of whatever I've got holding the nut. The Mad Bull Noveske barrel should fit no problem at all. Just remember that G&P threads are different pitch/size, so if you fit, say, a MB rail, you need the special G&P barrel nut. Also, thread on end of G&P barrel is CW, whereas most others are CCW, so you won't be able to swap over your flash hider without an adaptor part. Thanks for the heads up, Completely forgot about the flashhider threads! I cannot get this thing off... at all... would you suggest the boiling water method? Would my receiver be okay if I dipped the whole frontend in boiling water (up to the barrel nut threads)? Please give me a hand guys, any suggestions would help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Please give me a hand guys, any suggestions would help! Might be worth giving the boiling water a try - It won't do any harm to the receiver, the worst you'll get is some minor surface rust on the steel parts, and that's easily preventable. Really though, it just takes an awful lot of force - Last time i removed a G&P delta ring it took about 18 blows with a hammer on the armourer's wrench before it budged. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harborne blue Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 Correction - fitted the Magpul MOE grip and found that the pinion gear on the motor was somewhat chopped up. New motor now on the way. This first happened when I accidentally put a long FA burst out (am always knocking the flaming selector with my thumb!) so I suspect that a slightly incorrect motor alignment was to blame. BTW the MOE grip is a MUCH better fit and feel than the TD. No idea why on a magpul gun, they don't fit a Magpul grip?! Correction to the Correction... New motor fitted but still FUBAR. Suspected bevel gear issue so shipped back to my pals at Land Warrior for some TLC! Gotta love the 18m warranty they give - the new LMT will be a LWA purchase as well, I suspect! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrtickles Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 getting my sentry delivered this week from a uk retailer on special order( not usually stocked) had to wait since mid august as G&P only build them to order atm (they haven't even started work on my enforcer ) my new m7a1 will have to fill the void until then ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 ...uk retailer... special order( not usually stocked)... had to wait since mid august as G&P only build them to order atm... Damn fine choice of gun, but whoever told you G&P Sentries are 'special order' and 'built to order' is fibbing a little; G&P have a huge range of AR15 AEG's, and they'll build whichever one you order enough of to make it worth their while. Both Landwarrior (www.landwarriorairsoft.com) and Fire Support (www.fire-support.co.uk) stock G&P Sentries, and they're damn good retailers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mrtickles Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 yeah i know hwagan, but my local retailer is only 15 mins away and they always do me a good deal. i think they meant g&p make a bus load, ship them out and then move on to other models and then only make orders up for models not currently in production ! i dont mind waiting, i ve got so many bloomin aegs to get through Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 A small update on rubber options: I've been using guarder silicon rubbers mixed with element H nub (white) with great success, but I wasn't pleased with the extremely picky sensitivity of the adjustment wheel. I'm not exaggerating when I tell you I could not measure visually if I had moved the wheel or not yet I had evident hop changes. Those changes were super stable, but too annoying to get to. For the last game I tried the same Element H nub (white) mixed with a Madbull shark rubber (black) and the result has been excellent. I have the same persistent results but now I have about 1/8 of a turn between evident flight path changes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted June 17, 2012 Report Share Posted June 17, 2012 (edited) Update: I finally broke something in my sentry! It's taken me two years of abuse and play almost every weekend to get here. I ignore how many tens of thousands of BBs this replica has sent through its barrel. Result: One broken trigger spring (I play almost exclusively on semi) Edited June 17, 2012 by Wingmann Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sigseals1 Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Hi guys, i'm getting back into airsoft after a while out and I have this rifle. My sentry has the annoying problem of locking on semi and IIRC it was quite a common problem for Sentry owners. Does anyone know why this occurred and how to fix it? TBH I think I will probably send it back to LWA to fix and downgrade as it was shooting 390 out of the box! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Locking will eventually happen on all V2 gearboxes when doing rapid semi auto fire. Placing your motor correctly, correcting the AoE and using a good AB-MOSFET with a LiPo battery will help, but the problem will still be there. To solve it, just switch to auto, fire a short burst and keep on rocking on semi For <350 fps you can use a Guarder SP100 spring Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ariamark Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 ive hadmy sentry for about 2 years down and never had togoinside the gearbox utill last week but such as life Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ariamark Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 i have had my sentry for two years now and i have never had to go inside untilllast week the internals are just amazing quality as will all g&p in my experiance the onlythig that lets g&p guns is some of them have abit of then have rust problem on some of the metal parts has anyone else had this ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 That's inevitable when using steel parts under wet conditions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ariamark Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 i dont play in wet condtions tbh mostly cqb but it just rusts very easy but the gun build quality it outstanding the only let down would be the ccw threads Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted October 17, 2012 Report Share Posted October 17, 2012 G&P use clockwise threads dude Far more similar to the real steel, but unfortunately most Airsoft weapons use the CCW thread! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ariamark Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 that the one my bad got abit confused i got a noveske outter barrel for mine and it looks sexy and now i can put a tracer on Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Voxcaster Posted December 2, 2012 Report Share Posted December 2, 2012 I'm about to pick one of these up for $130-ish I hope, it's not working though. The guy says that no problematic mechanical noises were being made... it just stopped firing, so I'm hoping it's just a problem with the wiring because that should be $50 at maximum no? Has anyone experienced a problem like this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 It could be many things: Worn out trigger contacts, a motor cable pulled, getting locked in semi (that would be fun). Nothing you can't solve for cheap, whatever it is. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Voxcaster Posted December 3, 2012 Report Share Posted December 3, 2012 It could be many things: Worn out trigger contacts, a motor cable pulled, getting locked in semi (that would be fun). Nothing you can't solve for cheap, whatever it is. Alright yeah that's what I was thinking but I was just making sure it wasn't a common G&P Sentry problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sigma3 Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 After almost 4 years and many thousands of rounds, my Sentry finally suffered its first real problem, which I think is burned out trigger contacts. Semi-auto failed first, then eventually just no shooting at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Voxcaster Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 After almost 4 years and many thousands of rounds, my Sentry finally suffered its first real problem, which I think is burned out trigger contacts. Semi-auto failed first, then eventually just no shooting at all. How are you going to fix this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted December 4, 2012 Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 Mines will never get burned as I installed a MOSFET pretty soon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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