bladerunner168 Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 I did fit a Madbull M4 hopup to both of my G&P's. For some strange reason, they both had their FPS gimped by around 40-50. Needless to say, I went back to the G&P original units, fitted the Guarder clear hop buckings and nibs to both rifles, still not 100% happy but I think that's to do with the Madbull 6.03 TBB's fitted. Will probably try Prommy ones soon as the one fitted to my new G&G MP5 is pure delight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Try a stock TM rubber - I'm getting great results with that in the G&P unit with a Bigout black H-nub combined with a Madbull 6.03 TBB. Â On another note - After seeing your MRP/UBR, i decided it had to be done! Will be fitting it this evening! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil_Ger Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Oh, now im getting owned, i just made a false statement. I apologize... I will try what hwagan said and install a tm rubber and see id i get better results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G0LF K4RT Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 quick detour: im having some rust issues with parts of my gun, such as the receiver pins, RIS pin-like things, and other trivial parts.... is there much i can do about it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil_Ger Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Just completley dry it after a skirmish. Always take a towel and if your at home it isnt a bad idea to use a hairdryer so you can get everything out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 quick detour: im having some rust issues with parts of my gun, such as the receiver pins, RIS pin-like things, and other trivial parts.... is there much i can do about it? Â Â I have the same issue with mine - Castle nut, receiver pins, etc. Doesn't bother me, i quite like the 'worn' sort of look it gives - However, i'd guess your best bet is to give the gun a light coat of silicone oil before games, or paint those parts with a decent black paint. Or, failing that, as Phil suggested - Dry it religiously every time it gets a little damp. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G0LF K4RT Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Just completley dry it after a skirmish. Always take a towel and if your at home it isnt a bad idea to use a hairdryer so you can get everything out  thanks but in HK guns rarely get truly wet, but the air is just so stupidly damp so it rusts even sitting around at home Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil_Ger Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Maybe store it in an Airtight Container ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G0LF K4RT Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 yeah, i think i'll make a custom order from tupperware Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 ACF50 maybe? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil_Ger Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Or maybe wrapping it up in a couple of plastic bags helps? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G0LF K4RT Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 im currently using sandpaper (1000) to gently get rid of the rust every now and then, then applying a thin layer of WD-40 with a cotton bud on the small bits such as pins... idk :S Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil_Ger Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Well, that sounds like an idea, but even if you cant remove it, it gives it that used and worn cool look! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G0LF K4RT Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 :\ well when the rest of my gun is in the best shape i can keep it in (no scratches except on the flash hider and a small dent on the foremost rail), im not so sure if i want rusty bits... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 You could try storing it in a gun-bag with several silica gel bags. Â Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Ok, I'm going to refloat this, just to take the #1 spot from the Masada crowd  I made a couple of videos of my Sentry lower without and with an AB-MOSFET installed. I hope it clearly shows the difference between both setups.  Specs: G&P Sentry, 7.4v 1100mAh LiPo, Guarder SP90 spring, IA AB-MOSFET, Guarder silicon bucking, Element white "H" nub.  FPS: Rock steady at 288 (.20). Range and accuracy (on .25s): Awesome.  No MOSFET:  AB-MOSFET:   Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G0LF K4RT Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 ^ nice. Â my sentry is shooting too hot for cqb, any idea what the effects will be if i put an M100-equivalent spring in? the gearbox and motor is all stock, and i run on 7.4v lipos. im guessing the RoF will be even higher.... but will there be any negative effects? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 Shouldn't be - As long as you re-assemble everything correctly, you'll get a quicker RoF and a lower FPS reading. Mine tend to shoot between 340-380 out of the box, so i'd guess an M95 might be a better bet for CQB. I just clipped a coil off the stock springs on mine, and they're both between 320-330 now. Happily enough with no noticeable drop in range or accuracy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G0LF K4RT Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 what if i only need to stay below 1.3J? which is around 380. because i put in a TBB so the FPS is over 400 right now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 Ahhhh... 380 for CQB? That sounds painful Heh... Â An M100 should do the trick - Possibly even a 110 then clip a coil or 2. Depends on the manufacturer of the spring more than anything, as they always tend to very. I'd get a 110 and a 100, see which does what and clip coils as necessary. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bladerunner168 Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 what if i only need to stay below 1.3J? which is around 380. because i put in a TBB so the FPS is over 400 right now  Ahhhh, I remember 380 fps CQB styleee when I was playing in HK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 For <380 on a TBB I'd say you could use a Guarder SP100. That would give you 330 on the standard barrel, so it should go up to 350 with yours. Pretty fine I think. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted October 24, 2010 Report Share Posted October 24, 2010 BTW I now some of you guys installed Madbull and Prometheus TBBs. K4rt used a 285mm, but wouldn't that be longer than the flashider? I think default barrel is 257mm and there's about 1cm left to the birdcage, so let's say 270mm if I wanted to keep the barrel not visible. Is that correct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chiwawa Posted October 25, 2010 Report Share Posted October 25, 2010 Ey guys!  Can anyone tell me the major differences between the G&P sentry (vltor) and the G&P M7A1?  Thanks in advance    Quote Link to post Share on other sites
G0LF K4RT Posted October 25, 2010 Report Share Posted October 25, 2010 BTW I now some of you guys installed Madbull and Prometheus TBBs. K4rt used a 285mm, but wouldn't that be longer than the flashider? I think default barrel is 257mm and there's about 1cm left to the birdcage, so let's say 270mm if I wanted to keep the barrel not visible. Is that correct? Â LOL i spent ages figuring out who "k4rt' was.... Â Â anyways i used a 285mm promy, and its not visible at all. i cant see it looking down the barrel (without a flashlight) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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