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G&P sentry (vltor)


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Good review. Have you considered trying a gear sector clip to correct the timing issues you fear might occur when used with a 11.1V lipo? I've been using 11.1V lipos with my new G&Ps, no gear sector clip and they've been holding up fine. Regarding the Madbull hopup, it takes a bit of filing, but once you get it in there, your shot consistency will increase dramatically (combined with the Guarder clear bucking and a H-nub). The G&P HopUp unit ... is average at best.

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I just did like you said and filed the Ultimate until I got it to fit. However, when I tried to fit the white H nub from Element in, I noticed that the nub was not wide enough to fit perfectly in the chamber. There was about 0.2 mm or so of extra space. Same with the black. I usually use the white nub, but I just can't seem to align it properly in the Ultimate chamber. The black one I could align correctly.

 

My question is: which nub do you use?

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Nice review :)

 

I can't wait for mine to arrive... I got MAG 190-round midcaps and a red dot sight (open type) for it, plus the G&P bungee sling. I also purchased a cheap DBOYS 2000-round batt-powered double drum, but I don't expect much from it... :P

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I use the white one. It was being a PITA when I installed it in my G&P MRP, so I super glued it in the hopup arm's dead center and that worked fine. You can also use gearbox grease instead like they suggest for a temporary fix and adjust once the assembly is together (twisting the tightbore CW and CCW) and looking for optimum hopup engagement by looking down the barrel.

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I tested the rifle today with the black nub and the Madbull unit.

 

Worked like a dream. Full auto consistency was particularly good.

 

I'm going to hold off on the super gluing since I can't get a new strike arm for the unit.

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Between a decently set up 'normal' AR style hop-up (Say a G&P with a decent bucking and H-nub) and the Madbull unit, what would you say the accuracy increase is? I'm very tempted to try one, but i don't really wanna spend £35 for a millimetre better grouping... Really significant improvement, or just a bit better consistency?

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To tell you the truth, exact improvements in grouping are hard to measure. But there are some definitive benefits to the Madbull.

 

First, the adjustment is easier, much easier, more precise (cause the wheel is bigger) and you can be 100% sure it will hold its place.

 

The possible addition of an LED unit is another boost.

 

If you notice, the original G&P unit has a tiny tiny bit of wiggle when in the receiver, this goes away once the receivers are mated, but it makes you wonder...

 

Since the Madbull needs to be filed down, you can file it so it JUST fits in. I actually have to sort of force mine it. This is good since it ensures a zero wobble unit.

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Like Ecthelion said, easier and more precise adjustments that'll stay in place. My shot consistency went up dramatically once I switched to the Madbull HopUp.

 

Regarding getting the Madbull to fit in an aftermarket barrel like the G&P barrel, I'd strongly recommend filing it so that the HopUp fits, but can also be loose enough to freely move back and forth via the HopUp's top spring. Having the HopUp fit too tightly in the outer barrel might introduce new issues, as that HopUp's top spring that pushes the HopUp backwards against the gearbox reduces compression loss.

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I wonder about that top spring...

 

I've heard that it does very little since it is so weak. What I did was simply leave my Madbull hopup still sticking out a little from the receiver and then allow the mating of the lower and upper receivers to push the hopup in. I figured that way it would fall into its "natural" place...

 

Have you tried using a stronger spring that goes around the barrel? Like the setup on the VFC PDW?

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From what i can tell, the spring is there to stop the hop-up getting poked too far into the outer barrel by the movement of the gearbox nozzle... I lost one a while ago and replaced it with a much stiffer spring from a biro, but there's been no effect whatsoever as a result. I might pick up one of the madbull units next payday, but it's next to impossible for me to get over the 'if it ain't broken, don't fix it' theory...

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MAG Midcaps work perfectly in these. They fall free and have no feeding problems whatsoever.

 

Etchelion, The cylinder is in fact 'tapered' in lieu of porting. The side of the cylinder with the thinned sidewalls should be opposite the cylinder head.

 

I don't know what it is, but I always have terrible accuracy & hop consistency with G&P ARs. That's why I went with the nuclear option of replacing the barrel and hop-up so early in the gun's life. For around $60 for the parts and a little bit of time to install, I definitely can't complain about the result.

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My Magpul Sentry came today and im mighty impressed. But there is one thing thats bugging me......

Does any one else have an issue with the gap between the Vltor upper and the Magpul lower? Mine ssems to have a bit of a gap (not massive) but enough that when i put pressure on the upper it 'clicks' down into the lower, and when i press down again on the front end it move's back out again? Does any one else have this problem. Like i said, the play in it isnt much (were talking less than half a mm), am i just looking for a little niggle thats just normal? Will it effect the weapon in any way?

 

Any help would be cool :)

 

Cheers

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My Sentry has a TINY space on the back side where upper and lower meet, yes. If the metal below had that line in black it would go unnoticed.

 

I also got MAG midcaps for mine and they get in and out MUCH better than the 130-rounds mag provided with the replica... The default mag needs excessive force to be introduced or released.

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My Sentry has a TINY space on the back side where upper and lower meet, yes. If the metal below had that line in black it would go unnoticed.

 

Thanks wingmann, at least im not the only one :)

 

Does any one have a fix for this? Im not after closing the gap up (not to bothered about that tbh) i just want to take the wobble out of it?? Any suggestions?

 

Cheers

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Thanks wingmann, at least im not the only one smile.gif

 

Does any one have a fix for this? Im not after closing the gap up (not to bothered about that tbh) i just want to take the wobble out of it?? Any suggestions?

 

Cheers

 

 

I used electrical tape on the lower receiver, just above where the back of the gearbox rests in the receiver, and it removed any wiggle that was in my Sentry.

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Regarding the Madbull hopup, it takes a bit of filing, but once you get it in there, your shot consistency will increase dramatically (combined with the Guarder clear bucking and a H-nub). The G&P HopUp unit ... is average at best.

Let's say I wouldn't change the hop-up but only the bucking and nub. I can see how H or C nubs can help providing the proper contact on the BB, and bucking providing a good rest for the BB, so I'm interested in those first.

 

Would those changes alone be noticeable in a default G&P sentry?

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Not quite a sentry, but i recently switched the standard G&P nub in my MRP (Similar barrel length, same gearbox, etc) to a Madbull H nub, and groupings have improved dramatically. Previously, i could hit a man-thickness tree 9 times out of 10 at 40 metres with the stock G&P hop unit/nub/bucking/barrel. With the simple change to the H nub, i can hit the same tree 9 times out of 10 at about 50 metres. It's noticeably more accurate, and every shot is bang on the red dot at 35 yards. It was pretty accurate before, but now i can safely say it's among the 5 most accurate AEG's at my local field.

 

Basically, if you don't have an H nub in your AEG, you're missing a hell of a trick :P

 

 

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Basically, if you don't have an H nub in your AEG, you're missing a hell of a trick :P

That sounds like a proper no nonsense mod to me! Thanks a lot. I'll start with that after a good cleaning of the replica :)

 

Most of the mods I see involve lots of parts, or at least many. Have you tried to do progressive modding? (First the nub, then the bucking, etc.) so you can see where it's not worth to mod anymore? I tend to prefer simple mods that give you a 70% improvement that massive ones that just get you to 80%.

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I did just type a very long and detailed post there, but my laptop is a complete *fruitcage* useless cuntpile and kindly destroyed it.

 

Basically, long story fairly short - I currently own 2 fully G&P based M4's - They're both COMPLETELY stock, except for H nubs. They both put out around 340fps, and they both match or outperform EVERYTHING else on my local field. My MRP has taken a big dump all over Systema PTW's worth £2,000, as well as guns people have filled with the most expensive parts they can possibly find. I've never had a G&P gearbox break on me without firing a good 100 or more thousand rounds first.

 

Basically, in my experience - Buy a G&P M4, put an H nub in it. You might need to try a couple of different hop buckings to get the perfect combination, but hop rubbers are cheap. If you need a little more FPS (say from 320 up to 340), a madbull tightbore does the trick nicely. As long as you use a sensible battery and treat it right, a G&P M4 with a decent hop and barrel set up will match, come very very close to matching, or outdo anything you're likely to come across.

 

Really, it depends what you want out of it overall - I'd say my current G&P M4's perform at 97% of their potential - If you *really* feel you need to make them reach 100%, be prepared to spend hours and hours tinkering with a lot of money's worth of gearbox and hop parts before you find the right combination. Honestly, i've seen guns that might be a barely noticeable tiny bit more accurate at longer ranges, or they might sling a BB 2 yards further - but i've never seen anything put any of my guns to shame, and i've never been impressed enough to want to spend X money on trying to achieve the same performance.

 

 

Obviously that all applies to the UK - I can't comment on anything more than a sub-370fps set up - Basically, an hour of fiddling with the hop will put your gun almost to the peak of it's performance - if you want that last 3% more than that, it's going to cost a lot of money and time.

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Hi guys, I'm planning on getting this gun for myself in the coming weeks and one thing i dont want to have to do is go and buy a whole new bunch of lipos and a charger as i already have enough 8.4 mini's, would it be worth the cost to get a TM peq 16 and have it rewired to the front (have it looked at by someone experienced at the same time to fix any bad shimming etc. also dont mind the wires sticking out a bit) of just buy some bloody lipos?

cheerssmile.gif

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Buy some lipo's mate wink.gif

 

Front wiring it is....

 

a ) Going to cost money

b ) Leave horrible wires visible

c ) Make the gun a bugger to field strip for maintenance

 

You're going to end up paying about £20-30 for a half decent PEQ, and probably another £20 on getting it re-wired. Call it £50 for arguement's sake - Check out Component shop, and you can buy 3 7.4 800 Lipo's and a £15 Turnigy charger (that can also be hooked up to a car battery if needs be) for £50. You'll keep the gorgeous looks of the gun, you'll get a quicker trigger response and rate of fire, batteries will be far easier to change in the field and lipo's are just better.

 

I used to think they'd melt my face and stab my cats until i bought some - All this 'Buy a lipo bag, don't ever look at them funny' stuff is a bit tosh really. All i do is plug batteries in til the green light goes off, stick them in a gun, and take them out as soon as the RoF drops a little. In 6 months i haven't killed a lipo, myself, or my gun.

 

Honestly, there is NO logic in not buying lipo's these days. And, once your NimH's start to die, buy more lipo's, and they'll fit in the same mini sized spaces in your existing guns!

Edited by hwagan
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