G&P sentry (vltor)

[hwagan]

Well it isn't sunday, so seeing as i can't be shooting airsoft guns, might as well be chatting about them

 

Just to be extra helpful...

 

http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/body_airsoft_li-po.html - 7.4 1200's, 2nd down on that page. Fit perfectly in the buffer tube and last around 2,000 rounds or so - 2 of them lasts me a day's gaming, although i've got 5 more 800's just to be on the safe side and to lend people.

 

http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/body_lipo.html - 2nd charger down - Same as the top one, but comes with the mains adaptor.

 

 

3 things to remember with the above battery set up (exactly what i use)

 

1: Make damn sure the yellow adjustment screw on the inside of the mains plug is set to 12 Volts - Mine came set to 3, and it took me a week to figure out why it didn't charge.

2: As soon as the RoF drops, even a teeeeeny bit, change the battery. Lipo's go from 0 to dead in about 30 rounds when they're empty.

3: It's the little connector that hooks up to the charger, not the tamiya connector - I had to phone LandWarrior before i realised one plug was for charging, and one was for shooting...

 

 

 

 

[DUUUUUUURRRRRRR]

thanks again, the prices are a lot lower than i thought they would be, i'll do a bit of research into lipo's so i know exactly what i'm doing when they arrive

[Wingmann]

I got myself two 7.4 1100mAh 15C LiPo batteries and this charger in its G&P form

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6507&Product_Name=Turnigy_2-3_Cell_Lipoly_Balance/Charger

 

They are performing perfectly well. I can run morning games on just one battery and have a lot of power to spare. That Charger -very similar to the one hwagan posted- is foolproof and extremely cheap.

 

BTW, hwagan do any of your guns do a clack sound from the top? I think it's the piston or the spring hitting the back wall when they return, but I'm not sure if it's normal. Gun shoots fine and it doesn't always sound like that.

[hwagan]

I'm not quite sure exactly; The gearboxes in mine *do* sometimes make a slightly different noise - Especially in semi-auto. Sometimes there's slightly less of a distinct thwack on the end of the firing cycle, or it can occasionally be louder - but it's really really sublte. Is it making a completely different sound occasionally compared to most shots, or is it just a slight difference every few shots? I'd guess it's probably just normal, but if it seems really loud or anything, might be worth asking around in the tech forums - I'm pants with the inside of gearboxes

 

 

[Wingmann]

Sometimes there's slightly less of a distinct thwack on the end of the firing cycle, or it can occasionally be louder - but it's really really sublte. Is it making a completely different sound occasionally compared to most shots, or is it just a slight difference every few shots? I'd guess it's probably just normal, but if it seems really loud or anything, might be worth asking around in the tech forums - I'm pants with the inside of gearboxes

It doesn't do it in auto fire until the full cycle is ended, and then only sometimes. It's easier to get in semi. I've read that there are "silent" pistons, so maybe it's just these that are louder or sometimes hit the end with a tad more force...

[hwagan]

Ahhh that'll just be normal cylinder/piston variation noise. That 'clack' is also a good indication of when the spring is fully decompressed at the end of a cycle, so if you're trying to relax the spring with a few shots on semi-auto, the clack should indicated the piston is in it's furthest forward position. Nothing to worry about

[Wingmann]

the clack should indicated the piston is in it's furthest forward position. Nothing to worry about

Cool beans! Thanks mate.

[fabio]

hi guys

just a quick one

does anyone know how to get the flower style vltor flash hider off? doesnt seem to want to come off.

cheers

[kingdong]

hi matey ,

 

on the flash hider you should see two flat sides at the base of the flash hider, get an adjustable spanner or an armourers wrench and twist anti clockwise, sometimes it may need a bit of extra elbow grease to get these off

[pvtcody]

Which H-Nub do you think is best? I've got the element h-nub,should i use the black or white H-nub.My fps is about 340.Thanks

[Wingmann]

General rule is use the harder for the highest FPS. There's some info about those nubs earlier in the thread.

[hwagan]

My setups are all about 330-350, and i use Madbull Black H nubs. Not sure if they're soft or hard, but they work wonders.

 

Also, as for removing the flash-hider - If it still won't budge, immerse it in some boiling hot water for 5 minutes to soften the glue, as G&P threadlock them on.

[MikeG]

It doesn't do it in auto fire until the full cycle is ended, and then only sometimes. It's easier to get in semi. I've read that there are "silent" pistons, so maybe it's just these that are louder or sometimes hit the end with a tad more force...

 

I have this noise in my Sentry, and I'm fairly certain it's the sound of the piston and gears being stopped from returning by the anti reversal latch. G&P bevel gears have only 2 AR latch catches as opposed to the 4 or more on most other brands. I had this same noise in my G&P XM177 until I blew out the bevel gear and replaced it with a TM bevel with 4 catches. My logic is that with less catches, the piston and gears are able to spin backwards longer and harder before the AR latch actually stops them. Harder catch = louder noise, longer delay = more noticeable from the rest of the firing cycle.

[Deepeyes]

@mikeG

 

I use to have that same noise. What I did was when i took apart my gearbox I rolled the bevel gear back until it met with the anti reversal latch catcher. I haven't heard the noise since.

 

@fabio

 

G&P are locktights best customers. They love that stuff. It will come off it will just require some force.

 

Here is my G&P Sentry

 

 

Has to be the best value for money gun I have ever owned.

[Wingmann]

I use to have that same noise. What I did was when i took apart my gearbox I rolled the bevel gear back until it met with the anti reversal latch catcher. I haven't heard the noise since.

So you set the bevel gear already at one of the catch positions then placed the rest of the gears? I've never opened a box before, so I'm trying to understand this.

 

 

 

[hwagan]

Here is my G&P Sentry

 

 

*snip*

 

 

God-damnit, if you keep posting that picture i'm going to finally end up with a tan gun!

[fabio]

cheers guys will try and get the flash hider off later

heres a picture of my sentry with micro aimpoint tac light etc

[Deepeyes]

So you set the bevel gear already at one of the catch positions then placed the rest of the gears? I've never opened a box before, so I'm trying to understand this.

 

Yes I have the bevel gear already at one of the catch positions. I also make sure that the selector gear is in the 1 O'clock position.

 

God-damnit, if you keep posting that picture i'm going to finally end up with a tan gun!

 

Join us. Tan is the new black

[fyurian]

I have always said that an m4is the ugly's gun in the world (its just simple to design), and never would want one:waggle:

 

 

 

 

I now find it unbelievable (and so does my everybody i know)that i ordered this m4 because this thing looks SO fruitcage NICE

[Amenthea]

What front end is that one there? It looks kinda like the DD Lite 9.0? I'm trying to get something just like it for my next project, product listings for the Sentry just call it the Vltor front end but I can't find any products that match.

[bladerunner168]

I was looking at the LWA site and they have this (GP901) for £300 plus a Magpul one (GP901MS) for £325.

 

Is it just the Magpul parts that makes it £25 more or are they're more tricks in the Magpul one?

I read AI Mags review on the Magpul one, they're were quite impressed by it (although they said it cost £300 which confuses me a bit)

 

Pulling the trigger tommorow and would like to know if it's worth the £25 extra and if PMAGS will work on the GP901 version.

 

Thanks for your help!

 

 

[hwagan]

It's a DD Lite 7.0 rail - G&P sell the front end separately, available on Ehobbyasia among other places. They also do a 9.0 i believe, listed as a 'defender' front set, and they also sell just the rail without the barrel assembly, but with an attached short or long M203.

 

Annoyingly, you'll need to get both the 7.0 or 9.0 rail with either a barrel assembly or M203, they don't sell the rail systems separately.

[sigseals]

The magpul one just has G&P's interpretaiton of the magpul lower so you get a different body, trades trigger guard etc. I personally thought it was worth it and i bought the magpul in black.

[hwagan]

The Magpul one is really just for the look, although it does have a slightly flared magwell and a textured front if you're the type who grabs the magwell. Other than that though, it's not necessary. Just pimpin =D

 

*edit* G&P receivers take my King Arms PMAG hicaps just fine by the way, and i think the slight price increase is just due to the stock market and all that financial economy stuff... Only the first batch some months ago were about £20 cheaper. Still, £300 isn't at all a bad price for such an awesome blaster.

Edited June 1, 2010 by hwagan

[bladerunner168]

woot

 

Ordered the sand coloured G&P Magpul from LWA today, they said I should get it Thursday.

 

Doing an experiment in a all black CQB loadout with sand/tan/de Primary and Pistol.

 

Ready the sickbags folks.