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2009 Inokatsu M4 "Superversion"


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-Different Design

-Tighter Tolerances (CNC'ed)

-High Quality

-Not Too Expensive

 

I hoping to have a mag in hand sometime this week to finally get you guys some kind of shooting test. Hopefully the shipping from HK doesn't take too long. :)

 

-OGGY

 

How do you think they would compare in quality compared to say the new WA Super Magazines?

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How do you think they would compare in quality compared to say the new WA Super Magazines?

 

The WA Super are nice but they're outdated compared to the new Prowins now.

 

The WA is still a big hunk of pot metal and it leaks on green for $120. The Prowin is a CNC'ed aluminum masterpiece that can take up to red gas. Take a look at the videos, they speak for themselves.

 

I have 8 coming in, I'll keep you guys updated.

 

-Luis

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  • 2 weeks later...

Don't want to steal your show oggy, but I figure this is the best place to post info first

 

I got my Ino 2009 Super Version today. First things to note right away that differ from a WOC:

 

-the gun is much, much heavier

-finish is darker, more realistic to real AR-15s I've shot

-delta ring spring is much stiffer

-recoil spring is much stiffer, action doesn't seem as smooth

 

So I fired it a few times. The stock trigger spring is complete trash. Its too weak to fire a pro-win mag, hence the upgrade kit. I do not have it and simply took my AGM trigger spring (ridiculously stiff) and put it in. Voila. The gun doesn't seem to like the pro-win mags much. Some chopped BBs, but I've only tried one brand.

 

The recoil on this thing is ****ing awesome. It beats my G&P hands down. It also seems very, very crisp. I can't comment on the stock hop-up. I haven't been able to hammer out the pins to get to the hop unit. One thing that is good- the outer barrel has a little port for a adjustment wheel of a G&P styled hop-up! (hehe, I know what I'm doing as soon as those damned pins budge)

 

About the stock nozzle. Looks just like a NPAS set up without the adjustment part. The prongs do turn though...interesting to say the least. To fit a NPAS unit, you have to dremel the hell out of the NPAS and then use part of an allen wrench as the locking pin. Not exactly a drop in, but its in there now.

 

That's about it for now

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If you are going for the Inokatsu why go the cheap way with the hopup?

 

I have a PDI 6.01 barrel with a Prime rear adjustable hop and I love the combination, but you will need to use .30 or heavier BB's.

 

If you buy a nice expensive car, you take leather seats right?

If you go for the inokatsu invest also money in the other expensive parts...

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i use g&p WOC hop units in mine (with pdi 6.01 tightbores) and so does one other person in New Zealand on my recommendation, u can use from .25 (i use .30 to punch through bushes) i have used ra-tech and prime (which now gather dust) i HIGHLY recommend the G&P unit, i have put at least 2k of bb's through one of my ino's and the other 1500 ( both in game,not at home) and it shoots straight and hard,up to 50m. Some in my club think i sit at home and tune them all day,but i dont at all, new hop unit and tightbore is all i did.. and regular maintinence

 

DSC00011-5.jpg?t=1277106512

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G&P hopup units flat out work right and work consistently. I have heard nothing good about long term usage of anything other than WA and G&P style hopup units for these guns. That's all I use with either G&P or RATech hopup rubbers (RATech rubber is good for short barrel)

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What is good about the ra-tech rubber on a 10.5''?

 

-Luis

 

The RATech rubber has a protruding nub. This gives you more hop. It's goon on short barrels because the BB is in the barrel for such a short period of time that it needs a little more to get a stable hop effect (especially with heavy BB's). With my stock hopup, I was almost at max to get stable flight with my .30's on the 10" barrel. With the RATech rubber I'm somewhere in the middle, so it gives me more adustability.

 

It just overhops with my 20" barrel. Even with .43g BB's and zero hop my shots go to the moon. I need to drop that back to a B&P rubber.

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