Stuey Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Ah thanks, just what I wanted to know I wanted to know because rechargeable 123a's have a higher voltage (3.6V) than disposable 123a's (3V), but given that it's an LED the torch most likely has a driver circuit which regulates the voltage to whatever it is the LED needs. Anyone else tried rechargeables? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DELTA Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Ah ok, i havent run them for a long time. Just chucked them in for a quick test. So yeah unsure if the voltage would make too much difference but then again im not an expert. Im sure someone wise awesome powers will jump in with knowledge shortly haha. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kejot Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Great review! Just a couple of questions though, how many CR123 batteries does it take? Hows the quality of the pressure switch? Since its LED any idea how long the batteries will last? TIA it uses 2 cr123's pressure switch in one of the best ACM ones ive come across, 6+ months of use so far and still as good as new i run mine on 3.7v rechargeable's in a CBQ site underground, so lots of use and i only recharge every few weeks, so id guess approx 4hrs burn time ive also just got the peq box version, same cree led but with blue low light, red laser & IR illuminater !!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stuey Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 it uses 2 cr123's pressure switch in one of the best ACM ones ive come across, 6+ months of use so far and still as good as new i run mine on 3.7v rechargeable's in a CBQ site underground, so lots of use and i only recharge every few weeks, so id guess approx 4hrs burn time ive also just got the peq box version, same cree led but with blue low light, red laser & IR illuminater !!!! Ah so rechargeables do work? Excellent, I'll be having one of these! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Scrubdown Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Anyone knows if its possible to buy an extra pressurepad/wire/connector? In the same boat matey, my wire came completly off the part that screws into the torch. I found one from surefire with the endcap but at $80 i might aswell just buy a new one from rsov. does anyone know where/if they sell spare parts for the EM961? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Break100 Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 i've used it since early 2009, and still perform very well till now. I'm very satisfied! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ericfine50 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I just picked up the Element LaRue QD Mount and the screws on the current mount are to small. Does anyone know the right screws to use? Thanks Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 The screws you need for the Element LaRue Tactical Scout Light mount are metric M4 x .70 thread pitch x 6mm long. They have that funny beveled head on them shaped like the holes in the LaRue QD mount obviously. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ericfine50 Posted April 22, 2011 Report Share Posted April 22, 2011 Thank you. I found them at Mcmaster Carr. Eric Quote Link to post Share on other sites
intinerious Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Hi guys, Sorry for the necro, but seeing that since there's a few people on this thread with a replica M961, I want to ask whether the switch wire can be twisted/pulled out of the back of the light itself? I've tried twisting the switch both ways and it wouldn't budge, and I don't want to use piler's yet since its still pretty new... I managed to snap one of the Element M961s up at Shootercbgear / Shooter Gear a few days ago for a pretty good price at HKD 388 (USD ~49.88) and man this light is bright Just managed to find the Element M961 manual and it states its' max output is 188 lumens...which I'll say is pretty close when compared to my 200 lumen Surefire E2D Defender Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ericfine50 Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 (edited) http://cgi.ebay.com/Surefire-KL1-LED-Module-E-Series-E1e-E2e-E2D-Scout-/260827222689?pt=US_Flashlights&hash=item3cba8392a1#ht_500wt_1203 - Has anyone tried to swap out the heads on the Element one? EDIT - Never mind, found the answer, and it is no. Edited July 31, 2011 by ericfine50 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chevieblazer Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Sorry for yet another necro. I recently got my element scout light, but I can't seem to fit a battery inside. AAAs are too small, AA and CR123s are too thick. This is one of the latest scout light versions Quote Link to post Share on other sites
farrasdevell Posted December 11, 2011 Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 try CR2's slightly smaller than CR123 and depending on where you shop cheaper too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctres94 Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Sorry for yet another necro. I recently got my element scout light, but I can't seem to fit a battery inside. AAAs are too small, AA and CR123s are too thick. This is one of the latest scout light versions In case you didn't know, the batteries are not installed by unscrewing the tailcap. You actually unscrew the lamp assembly to access the battery compartment, which takes cr123's. This tricked me at first too, but it makes sense because it allows you to change tailcaps/pressureswitches without worrying about the batteries coming out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chevieblazer Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 Yea thanks, it did take me a while to figure that out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Had a friend who was nice enough to send me the new tan M600C and M300A. Trademarks are there, however he had to Sharpie through them. Nothing an alcohol swab can't fix. All 3 of my lights. 300A on my MAG-KU: Few notes: -Pressure switch is much softer than the old version, takes lot less force to turn it on. Not sure if I like this yet, though the old one was a bit too firm. -Color is a very good mix of tan, gold, and bronze (you can see it in the last picture). Finish is anodized of course, but too bad it's not the same tan as the RS. -Light brightness seems the same as the old version, though my black one is currently broken so I can't do a side by side test. -The thumb click switch is much firmer than my older switch - that's a plus for me. Overall these new versions still show Element really know how to make flashlights. Plus I believe they're cheaper than the old black ones! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ericfine50 Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Those look very nice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
beta08 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 I just got an M600 in "FDE" the other day is well. The color is a HECK of a lot brighter than the real deal but it actually looks really nice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted January 14, 2012 Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Oh completely forgot to mention: the mount screws are now hex instead of phillips. Boo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctres94 Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 Have any of you guys noticed that the pressure switch is a bit finicky? Sometimes I unscrew mine, and screw it all the way back in and it doesn't work. Then I back it out a little and it works perfectly. Then I can come back later, screw it the rest of the way in, and it works just fine. What's up with this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
j3T Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 (edited) So, are the tan one's already available in shops? Can't seem to find them except for some italian guy on ebay who sells them for almost double. Edited March 26, 2012 by j3T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 RSOV has em. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
amblin83 Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 (edited) The most accurate/realistic SF replica i've seen is made by a brand called 'FireKylin'. Although quite expensive for a replica (a LED M952 costs ~$80), but firekylin feature real HA type III surface treatment just like real surefires and because it's a 100% clone, all internal/external parts are interchangeable with real SFs. The most difficult feature to 'clone' is 1.Surefire's iconic green / greyish 'sheen' and the very thin natual satin black finish on their HA typeIII treated aluminium and 2. surefire's hi-power laser engraving which burns right through the hard treated surface . Firekylin cloned both feature spot on. (and that's very scary if you own a real SF and know what i'm saying. ) I'm just about to make a thread about how to distinguish between the real SF and Firekylin clone. Edited April 25, 2012 by amblin83 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akiraspeedstar Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 Dammit I just ordered a different brands Surefire replica and it's decent but not in anyway as close of a replica as the Element one. I didn't even think of checking RSOV until I looked at this post. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
intinerious Posted April 26, 2012 Report Share Posted April 26, 2012 The most accurate/realistic SF replica i've seen is made by a brand called 'FireKylin'. Although quite expensive for a replica (a LED M952 costs ~$80), but firekylin feature real HA type III surface treatment just like real surefires and because it's a 100% clone, all internal/external parts are interchangeable with real SFs. The most difficult feature to 'clone' is 1.Surefire's iconic green / greyish 'sheen' and the very thin natual satin black finish on their HA typeIII treated aluminium and 2. surefire's hi-power laser engraving which burns right through the hard treated surface . Firekylin cloned both feature spot on. (and that's very scary if you own a real SF and know what i'm saying. ) I'm just about to make a thread about how to distinguish between the real SF and Firekylin clone. Did you order it directly from FE themselves (I remember they have a website) or through an airsoft retailer? In HK I haven't seen any shop carrying FE stuff other than WGC (but I think they took it down already). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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