ICS L86 Light Support Weapon

[Apex]

Yeah, I had to have a PDI 6.05 472mm (L85, you can probably fit up to 490mm in there without it looking daft ie barre protruding riiight up into the flashider) barrel modded to have new grooves added so the hop collar would clip into place right...the prommy you put in the LSW not need similar?

 

iirc the normal L85's should be able to take a 509/510mm ib ?

[lance201]

Hi,

 

I am thinking about buying one, can it take 11,1 V Lipos out oft the box?

 

Thx lance

[ED-SKaR]

Hi,

 

I am thinking about buying one, can it take 11,1 V Lipos out oft the box?

 

Thx lance

 

The mechanical components of the gearbox are extreemly well built, I don't see a problem there. I dont know about the wiring, and most people who use lipos also fit mosfets, so it might be an idea to totally replace the wiring when you fit the mosfet just in case.

[lance201]

Ok, thx for the answer, I ordered it. What I like to know from the owners is, if I better install a susat (is the acm produkt ok?) or a rail with some other optic not in the terms of looks but in the terms of usability.

 

Lance

[ED-SKaR]

Ok, thx for the answer, I ordered it. What I like to know from the owners is, if I better install a susat (is the acm produkt ok?) or a rail with some other optic not in the terms of looks but in the terms of usability.

 

Lance

 

 

The Star/Aries and the GnG SUSATs are pathetic for airsoft. They are great quality scopes, look good and work great but the site picture is very close to the rear lense. This means that if you are wearing goggles then you can't see through it. If you don't take saftey seriously and wear just shooting glasses then you can just about use it, but you have to push the glasses against the back of the site.

 

I have had about 10 seconds to play with the ACM one, baught from RSOV, and the site picture is further back, making it usable with goggles/mask. I have every intention of buying one when i get some money together (most of the way there already)

 

 

Other optics is your own choice really, there is no airsoft version of the acog or elcan used by the british army. There is an ACOG thats close TA31 with doctor optics, but its a slightly different variant. Most people wont notice the difference, and the rest wont care.

 

You could of corse go with something completley different without worrying about having to find a site that works.

 

 

 

 

 

PS, the ICS L86 comes with both the 19mm doverail and a 20mm RIS. I assume the other ICS Saties do as well.

[RSM]

iirc the normal L85's should be able to take a 509/510mm ib ?

 

By all means they can take up to M16 length barrels inside but you'll have some of the inner barrel showing within the flashider, something I'm not a fan of personally.

[lance201]

 

PS, the ICS L86 comes with both the 19mm doverail and a 20mm RIS. I assume the other ICS Saties do as well.

 

No, I think only the starter releases came with the additional rail...

 

Lance

[lance201]

I was wrong and Ed-Skar was right, there is a railmount in the package. So I think I will use this new elcan spectre dr clone from EB.

I also bought a original SA80 sling... but there must be better slings for this, what sling is used in this review?

 

thx Lance

[Hatchet]

The sling used in this review is an Urban ERT two point/one point sling. However, I've used the original SA-80 sling on it as well and that's fine when properly setup.

[ahadsz]

I think adding a KWA 2GX hop-up bucking and a prometheus 6.01 tb barrel and this thing should be shooting fine and might maybe even a ported piston head but other then that I could see this as shooting far, my freind add those 2 upgrades too one of his jg guns and its sick lol, and its only 145 dollars..

[lance201]

The sling used in this review is an Urban ERT two point/one point sling. However, I've used the original SA-80 sling on it as well and that's fine when properly setup.

 

Any hint how to "properly setup" this thing?

 

thx lance

[ED-SKaR]

http://forums.airsofters.co.uk/showthread.php?t=8103

http://www.airsoft.netonbuy.se/?page_id=844

between the two of theese pictures you should manage it.

[ahadsz]

A quick question, I was looking at this rifle in depth and wow its amazing, just wondering if I install a mosfet, 550mm tightbore (6.01), and maybe a systema magnum motor to quiet the guns sound would this be an effective set-up for 11.1v lipo and making it quieter or do you need to do something else to quiet it?

[ED-SKaR]

The gearbox sounds very smooth when its running, so i guess you could set it up for a fairly silent gun. I have been told that, from the enemy team, it sounds like a real gun from very far away, you only hear the muzzle report/piston head hitting the cylinder head. I guess the best mod to do would be to use a silet piston head and cylinder head, but i dont know if they work.

 

 

But remember the L86 has a 610 lenght barrel not a 550 , those extra 60 might help you keep it quiet.

[ahadsz]

true but thats the closest size i can find, also can you suggest a silent piston head and what not?

[ED-SKaR]

I've never used a silent piston/cylinder set so i dont know, sorry.

[ahadsz]

oh ok, thanks anyways.

[ED-SKaR]

If you do try it, let me know. Sounds like an interesting project .

[blind_marksman]

This is a great review

I've just gotten one of these (your review pretty much sold me) but I have a question if you don't mind me asking.

_{I'm sorry if they are completely stupid, but I get paranoid about airsoft guns breaking (but then, after a G&G and AA L85, who wouldn't?)}

 

I know that you've mentioned the foreguard is stiff to begin with - but does yours actually close properly? Mine (for now) is always at a very slight angle - it doesn't close down fully. The battery I have (a nun-chuck type) does actually fit in the foreguard, but like I said, it doesn't seem to close properlly (And I don't want to break it by forcing it...)

 

Also - what setting is the spring initially set to? (As in, when sent out from ICS, are they usually in the medium setting?)

Cheers.

[Hatchet]

Pictures would help, but yes, it closes fully. Make sure the tab underneath isn't restricting it closing, but you do have to give the metal pushdown part a bit of welly. If that makes sense.

 

I don't recall what the spring was set for initially, medium I think, but it'd be worth getting it chronoed anyway just so you know.

[blind_marksman]

Getting pics could be a problem, as my camera broke at a skirmish last week. When someone stood on it

 

I am applying force - but I don't want to apply too much. This is plastic

 

Everytime I try to close the 'lid' completely down, the right side of the foreguard slides back out of place. So I have a choice - either have the right side of the foreguard slightly open (the bottom tab still keeps it closed) or have the upper 'lid' out of line - the left side sticks up.

 

I know the lid can close down properly in theory - when the sides are swung apart, I can push the lid down to beyond the 'closed' positon.

 

Edit - I realise that some of that might not be 100% clear...

Edited August 30, 2010 by blind_marksman

[Hatchet]

On mine I close the lower half first and then apply inward pressure to the two metal prongs of the top half. This allows them to pop into place "behind" the holes on the lower. As long as you don't have anything fouling this inside it should work and give you a fully shut front.

[ED-SKaR]

I often remove the gas parts so that the top cover closes properly, but thats partly because i fit two mini batterys and have plenty of wires floating around .

 

One part of the gas parts has a flat section, this part should face upwards conecting with the lid. It annoys me so i remove it .

[blind_marksman]

I often remove the gas parts so that the top cover closes properly, but thats partly because i fit two mini batterys and have plenty of wires floating around .

 

One part of the gas parts has a flat section, this part should face upwards conecting with the lid. It annoys me so i remove it .

 

Ah, I didn't realise the gas parts actually moved

 

I've rotated them, and the fit is slightly better. I removed them, and it was exactly the same.

I've ensured the battery fits properly, and it does.

 

But still, the lid isn't closed properlly - you know the metal part of the lid/cover - it still sits at a very slight, but noticable angle.

It could just be me - I'm used to my old G&G type, which clicked into place easily Then again, maybe it just needs to be worn in - it is still a tad stiff.

 

* _{Edit- I know I sound very pedantic and possibly stupid asking all this...}

Edited August 31, 2010 by blind_marksman

[lance201]

Hi,

 

when I attach the bipod to the metalframe under the barrel, there is still enough room for the bipod to woble from side to side a bit, is this normal? And the pin which fixes upper and lower together gets loose very easily, so I am afraid to loose it in the field.

 

thx Lance