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My G36K... Began life as a Jing Gong G36C, but somewhat far removed from its origins.

 

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Army Code body

Army Code steel cocking lever and ejection port cover

Classic Army pistol grip (fiber reinforced and a near perfect color match with the Army Code body)

Classic Army G36K length stock

Classic Army G36 scoped carry handle

Classic Army G36K RAS

Classic Army G36K steel outer barrel assembly (gorgeous)

Classic Army vertical grip

Element Noveske steel flash hider

Classic Army G36 inner metal frame

Classic Army G36 metal stock block

Classic Army 7mm gearbox

Systema bushings

Systema Gears, cyclinder, piston, spring, etc.

Classic Army stainless steel 6.04 mm inner barrel

KM hop-up bucking

 

About the only things that are still Jing Gong are the motor, wiring, some tiny gearbox parts, trigger, and hop-up. Future upgrades will be some nicer wiring, a MOSFET setup, and possibly a metal hop-up chamber and better motor.

 

If I had to build it over again, I think I would have liked to use that KWA G36C gearbox. 8 & 9 mm bushings? Yummy.

 

Now if only I could solve that annoying gap between the Classic Army grip and Army Code receiver.

Edited by darryl zero
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Ever wondered what a G36 Bullpup might look like? Perhaps something like this:

 

g36_bulpup.jpg

 

Gentelmen, we have the HK G37!

 

I NEED this rifle. I'm going down to the local hardware store to buy bondo and I'm making one. Look for future posts on build progress; I'm going to do a build of this in between my "Realistic Blow Back modual" development. I have built a mechanism to mimic .22lr force for GBB's along with GBB Cmags and custom milled CnC USP slides, but that can wait, because I NEED ONE OF THESE!

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Where do you get that info from. The barrel is the right length, the flash hider if you think its off ive never heard that before...

 

Yes the flash hider is a ........ i took a screwdriver on mine, wrapped in in a thin peice of cloth, wedged in between the gap, a good turn gets it off.

Edited by Azulsky
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Either that or vice grip the other end of the barrel with it wrapped in something so it doesnt scratch. Then with a longer screwdriver/other long skinny metallic item you can get good leverage. If that doesnt work, then you need a heat gun "or other directable hi heat source *wink*" to deactivate the adhesive.

 

What kind of flash hider are you putting on it?

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Oh I tried warming up the locktite and everything and yeah, nothing. I know many have succeeded, but theres also many who simply cannot.

 

It doesn't matter though. What I wanted to put on instead was actually a suppressor and with the CA barrel, it kinda sticks out too far from the handguards.

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Once he bought all the Classic Army parts except for the RAS he must have run over the price of what the CA costs. All that comes standard AFAIK

 

You don't get the nice steel barrel or RAS with you bog standard CA36. Given that I purchased all of the parts in Hong Kong and paid HK street prices, I do think I came out slightly ahead this way, financially speaking. If you factor time into the equation, then yes I should have started with a CA36. That said, I've got a bunch of spare parts to get rid of now, nearly a complete gun in fact. It would be nice if I could get my net cost for this project down to $0.

 

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You don't get the nice steel barrel or RAS with you bog standard CA36. Given that I purchased all of the parts in Hong Kong and paid HK street prices, I do think I came out slightly ahead this way, financially speaking. If you factor time into the equation, then yes I should have started with a CA36. That said, I've got a bunch of spare parts to get rid of now, nearly a complete gun in fact. It would be nice if I could get my net cost for this project down to $0.

 

 

True dat on the street prices. The gap i wouldnt worry about, its something that i had on my CA36K.

 

Could you take the RAS off and take a picture of the barrel, ive never seen a Classic Army G36K Barrel other than the "bog" standard one, would be interesting too see.

 

Congrats on the gun as a whole though its a looker...

Edited by Azulsky
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The AUG isn't lefty friendly either you know. There are however lefty versions in RS.

 

There aren't any "left hand versions" of the AUG--they're all the same. All you do is remove the bolt, pull the extractor from the bolt head, put it back in on the other side of the bolt head, put the bolt back in, swap the port covers, and voila.

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A Group pic of my G36s...

 

I hope i will receive more real folding stock in order to have total 10 .

 

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Front G36 Spec:

Surefire M570B handguard

GG&G Heavy duty bipods

Hensoldt Carrying handle with Dual optics

Real G36K Folding Stock

 

Middle G36KE Spec:

KSK Top Rail

Real HK416 Front & Rear sight

Real KAC G36K RAS

Real KAC Vertical Grip

Real G36K Folding stock

Surefire M1 IR illuminator with XM07 Tailcap

 

Left G36C Spec:

Real KAC Front Flip up sight

Real KAC Rear Flip up sight with Long rail

Real G36C handguard with side rails and bottom rail

Real G36C Folding Stock

Surefire M900A

 

Right G36C Spec:

Real KAC Front Flip up sight

Real KAC Rear Flip up sight with Medium rail

B&T G36C RAS

Real G36C Folding stock

GG&G offset mount

Surefire M900 series with Surefire KL6 LED conversion head

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I was thinking of something that would allow you to be a bit more accurate, so you'd have a tanned gun, but with the red/white markings perfectly preserved with no gray showing.

 

You could try parrafin or even candle wax. Use a thin stick object and just lay it on, then scrape the excess, and paint. I haven't tried it myself but I did read up on how artists paint using wax and oil or acrylics.

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Anyone know what inner barrel length I would want if i got the G&P G36k front hand guard set? I've tried searching through the forums, but I couldn't find the exact length. And, would it make a difference in range and accuracy if swap from a g36c barrel (247mm) to something like 300mm or 363mm?

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The CA G36k barrel length is ~363 (actually slightly less maybe 360 but the flashider covers a few more too), duno if G&P is exactly the same though.

 

Debatable using a longer barrel, some seem to think it makes no difference.

Apparently once over 363mm it makes little difference, but therefore 270-360 it might be worth it. If you dont already have a tightbore I'd say go for a new tightbore or the k length if you're going to a k.

Edited by Domz
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