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I just noticed there was no review here for my favourite rifle; the TANAKA WORKS m40a1.

 

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It is a NBB gas rifle that uses the same reciever as the other m700 based tanaka rifles (AICS, LTR, M24). Only barrel length and furniture really seperates these rifles.

 

Rather than waffle on; I'll post videos I made of the rifle in action and a video review....

 

 

 

 

 

(note this has now been laser ranged at 76m.)

 

I would like to think that is comprehensive review and explains why tanaka rifles are worth buying. OK this is a PCS version, running at full power so too hot for typical UK sites, but even the modern non PCS version can be adjusted by opening the bolt up and reducing tension on the hammer spring. (watch you unlock the grub screw when doing this).

 

Despite owning a co2 COLD SHOT I prefer using green gas just as I don't like remote lines etc. Green gas is very very user/gaming friendly and as long as it's not too cold or you don't attempt to fire sustained rapid; you won't have a problem. Just be sure to clean the silicone out of the barrel/hop carefully.

 

The magazines are expensive considering their 11 shot capacity but if you ask me, that just makes you hold your fire more (which is a good thing). You may struggle when spotted and up against AEG users in an exchange but I suggest it encourages you to reposition (which is a good thing). The impact plates do wear out after a while and I recommend the G&G powerpack magazine parts. I never bothered fitting the extra hammer spring, as it is powerful and consistant enough for me. My standard hammer (valve knocker) did bend after a year or so.

 

Other tips; do not hold the rifle under the magazine when firing, as it causes inconsistancy. The extended magazines are reported to have some consistancy issues compared to the 11 shot version. The 11 shot version has good gas capacity (enough for 3+ mags in summer).

 

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The m40a1 is almost as light as the Light Tactical Rifle (LTR) only 40g in it but has a more ergononmic and practical stock IMO. I really like the cheek comb and find it better than the m700, M24, LTR stocks IMO. Being plastic is fine for people who intend to use their rifle rather than cuddle it. It encourages you to cover it up (ie camo) and not worry about scratching your woodwork. Fitting a bipod to the stud is fine and very practical for accurate zero of the rifle.

 

This rifle is a firm favourite and better than my old APS2 MK2 SPORTER. I would buy another one of these put it that way, despite the problems that gas will always have compared to spring. Be sure to fit the VSR hop conversion kit and don't put a firefly VSR hard rubber in it (I tried). The Nineball purple airseal rubber works really well. Best barrel choice is always a debate and all I will say is the PDI 6.05mm 554mm is great and do not want to replace it.

 

here are some pic's of it...

 

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10 out of 10. Cheapest tanaka rifle and somewhat overlooked because it has plastic furniture. Don't follow the crowd and buy this instead. You will NOT regret it.

 

Good Hunting ;)

Edited by The Bushman
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FPS?

 

Please watch the video's I made/linked.

 

Basicly, this is the long out of production PCS version. PCS = Power Control System. This allowed you to decrease and slightly increase the power, compared to the non PCS versions you get now.

 

FPS is dependant on gas used, temperature, hammer spring used and at what tension.

 

You can decrease the power on th modern non PCS version if you are worried it will be too powerful for your application. Use 134a gas instead of green to knock it down for low power sites.

 

Good Hunting ;)

Edited by The Bushman
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  • 1 month later...
Tanaka users stand and be counted

 

Great review ,worthy of praise , tbh i love the LTR more and so does bitchtits now

 

Thanks. I think the LTR gets a 10 out of 10 too :) I just think the m40a1 comb and narrow forearm are more ergonomic (at least for me). Plus the LTR requires some milling work to fit a 555mm inner barrel (runs into a silencer) for the vsr hop conversion; while the m40a1 is a drop in solution.

 

Dodge and Chauf both own LTR, so I've been on the recieving end :P

 

Good Hunting ;)

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  • 1 year later...

Hi @ all

 

 

i didn t find a thread for tanaka so i post my question here! sorry

 

in this days my 3 tanaka is on the way to me my ka hop up conversion an all g&g upgrades and my co 2 rig lays in my room from my old tanaka

 

in my old tanaka i have installed the pdi 6,05 555mm

 

this time i would install for better look ( i would converted to MK13) the g&g tango barrel so i need a 630mm innerbarrel

 

i found a first/laylax pss10 6,03 625mm extra long for Vsr 10 has some budy experience with this barrel???is it worth or better get an normal 650mm psg1 barrel an drill/cut that to fit????

 

or cancel this idea and install the good 555mm barrel with the original tanaka outer?

 

thanks for answer

 

best regdars

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  • 3 months later...

Only just seen your question. Sorry for late reply.

 

I have no experience with barrels over 554mm

 

You may get more power (if that is really necessary lol)

 

I rate the PSS10 6.03mm 430mm in my VAR, so presume the long one is on par (just with more power).

 

However, I will say that the rifle is already fairly hefty compared to a VSR and adding more weight will make it just abit harder to use. ie. more fatigue to your arms and simply harder to crawl/etc.

 

The choice is yours. But I suggest I would only look at your plan if I was allowed really high power and had fields that favoured very long ranges engagements as a rule. My own woodland gaming would not require or favour it. If it ain't broken, don't fix it.

 

Let us know how you fair, if you do/have gone down that route.

 

Good Hunting ;)

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Excellent review Bushman! I now have the chance to say thanks for the amazing videos that really got me into the right mood for target shooting and, as you call it, 6mm hunting :)

 

To integrate the review I can add my own initial grouping testings, done yesterday. This might give a better idea of what the rifle is capable of almost at stock level.

 

Reezo's first grouping test with the Tanaka M40A1 PCS

 

 

I know grouping shots do not mean a lot compared to actual fielding a weapon but you have to understand I am going to use my rifle for target shooting and not for skirmishes, at least for quite some time.

 

Also, I've done some at home upgrades to the rifle and I wanted to see if I had actually done more harm than good.

 

In addition, my sights had to be zeroed in (and that took me A LOT of reading eheh before I could get to know what to do and how).

 

I am posting this test so that people may look at them and get an idea of how this kind of rifle shoots, compare it to theirs etc. etc.

 

I am also using this thread as a repository in case I upgrade my rifle and want to compare how the upgrades increased or decreased the overall accuracy. BB weights and brands are also going to be tested some time soon so, this thread might do some higher good than I think :)

 

Specifications and data

 

Rifle specs:

- Tanaka M40A1 PCS with unrestricted nozzle

- PCS valve set around 70% (could have been better, sweet spot at around 80%-85%)

- King Arms bipod

- Guarder 3-9x40 Illuminated Scope

 

Commercial upgrades:

- King Arms reinforced striker spring and steel impact plate

 

At home upgrades:

- Stronger magazine to bolt valve spring

- Magazine holder shims to crate better magazine-to-bolt seal

- Teflon taped, centered inner barrel

- Reinforced hop up using a square small patch of aluminum adhesive foil

 

BBs and gas used:

- Madbull 0.40g More info

- HFC Top Gas More info

 

Weather conditions:

Temperature around 27 degrees

Wind close to zero (hard to see leaves moving in the area)

 

Phase 1. Zeroing the scope

 

Here is what I've done. I loaded 10BBs, emptied the gas in the magazine and put it back, holding it for around 4 seconds.

 

I had NO houp. The wheel was slightly grinding on the plastic dent, slightly enough to predict no hop up was being used.

 

I placed my target at around 3 meters and sighted the scope. The elevation on my guarder scope is unable to be centered at this distance, meaning I was shooting around 5-6 Mils higher than the point I was aiming to.

 

What I did, however, was zero the windage to my best and then zero the elevation to around 5 Mils higher than my center. As I said, it is impossible to zero the elevation at 3 meters because the knob locks and cannot go any lower. I suppose this is because the scope is not meant for 3 meters shooting eheh.

 

I do not know the FPS I am shooting at, but this is the result of my zeroing shooting at 3 meters.

 

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Phase 2. Shooting 10 rounds at 12 meters

 

I placed a new target at around 12 meters, reloaded gas and BBs and fired 10 shots at it.

 

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This is the picture showing my rifle (far left you can see a red spot, that is approximately the position of my rifle butt) and the target (the white box on the right).

 

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Since my sights did not allow further "lowering", (I guess I am zeroed at around 30 meters..I will have to find out) - I had to aim lower than the point of impact. My aim point was:

 

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Phase 3. The results

 

4 shots in the center, almost impossible to see one from the other, and 6 around the center, that you can see pretty clearly.

 

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BB strenght at 12 meters:

 

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Short Public Service Announcement

 

As you noticed, these rifles must be handled and used responsibly at all times. People around you trust your maturity and will hold you in the highest of respects when they will see you handle your weapon responsibly.

 

When playing with others, always respect the maximum allowed strenght for your country and for the club.

 

Keep this table handy to remember Minimum Engagement Distances for your weapon.

 

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Printer-Friendly:

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Your discipline with the rifle will determine the valor and esteem others have for you. Honor the rifle :)

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