Danke Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 I've seen some very nice work in other threads. Let's put it all here with any helpful hints. My first try, a Magpul ladder rail, done with a Maltese cross looking head on a soldering iron. Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 That looks about as comfortable as holding a VFG made out of broken glass... No plans on smoothing it down some? Nice pattern, but i see far too many pointy bits.. Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted February 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 It is quite nice to grip, I might not rub it all over my face (wait no I just did and only combed out my beard). I went lighter on early tries but with gloves you couldn't really see any extra friction. Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Ahhh, should have thought about gloved use. Guess it's just the close up picture that makes it look a bit pointy... I'm tempted to try a bit of stippling myself, but i haven't really got anything i want to stipple... Old springer M8000, prepare to be hurt. Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 You did it to ladder panels? Rofl. The tip looks awesome though. Here's my stippled XTM's, as everyone should have seen now XD: In-progress pic, not completely stippled: My stippling craze originated from this post build on AR15.com: Glock Frame: PMAG: USP-C: Honestly, random stippling is best for smaller equipment, while stippling for pistols/larger projects require a good-looking pattern. Although both the Glock frame and USP have very rough grips now, it just doesn't look very aesthetically appealing anymore. Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 You did it to ladder panels? Rofl. The tip looks awesome though. Here's my stippled XTM's, as everyone should have seen now XD: In-progress pic, not completely stippled: Glock Frame: PMAG: USP-C: Honestly, random stippling is best for smaller equipment, while stippling for pistols/larger projects require a good-looking pattern. Although both the Glock frame and USP have very rough grips now, it just doesn't look very aesthetically appealing anymore. Pictars of the tip? Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 It's a chisel/wedge-shaped one I burred with my dremel, but it's not with me anymore . I'm going to try to modify the iron I have with me now to the same tip. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Is this only for plastics? Because I stipple wood. Used a large 4" nail with the tip coned and rounded and a ball peen hammer. To get an even randomness (if you just go full random, you're likely to miss some spots and have to do them over again) I partition the area in smaller segments first then go in small spiraling movements until the segment is done, then I proceed to the next segment. Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Now that's a damn good idea - Those grips look really nice. Take it you re-varnished and suchlike afterwards? Very nice finish. Link to post Share on other sites
Danke Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Wood's welcome too. I think this is a great customize your gear project. Making the big jump to going over a pistol frame from rails covers or grips means jumping in the deep water but it's still a project the average guy can take on at home. Link to post Share on other sites
Reincarnation... Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Is this only for plastics? Because I stipple wood. Used a large 4" nail with the tip coned and rounded and a ball peen hammer. Another method for wood or metal is using a spring loaded center punch. Rather simple, push down until it punches a dimple. Repeat, many times. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 13, 2010 Report Share Posted February 13, 2010 Now that's a damn good idea - Those grips look really nice. Take it you re-varnished and suchlike afterwards? Very nice finish. Thanks. Process is after fine sanding the stock, you do the stippling. Stain, then put the inlay or medallion, and put a light coat of varnish. You can apply more on the smooth area depending on how glossy you want them to be but you wouldn't want to put any more than two light coats on the stippled area as it tends to fill in the dimples. Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 Can't do pics but I have 'stippled' 2 vsr stocks. I tried to copy the current pattern on Remington composite stocks. I drew the outline on in pencil & used a standard chisel tip. Took about an hour to do each one. Worth while doing as it looks & feels great. On the first one, I made the mistake of polishing it down a little with wire wool. This removed a bit of the friction but still looks ok. Greg. Link to post Share on other sites
Gooberz Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I don't think Candyman is still around to post it himself, so I'll drop some pictures from his WA2000 build here. I seem to remember him saying he figured it out with a dremel, in his build thread. Link to post Share on other sites
The Suppressor Posted February 15, 2010 Report Share Posted February 15, 2010 I like the way it's starts as a chequering project, and turns into a stippled one! Checkering(is this allowed too? ) is damn hard to do and I was hoping I'd stumble on some in here, although it's completely different to stippling. Some really lovely pics guys. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Checkering isn't all that hard. But what it is is time consuming as each and every line is cut, deepened and fine cut. Link to post Share on other sites
The Suppressor Posted February 16, 2010 Report Share Posted February 16, 2010 Could you share with the thread readers what wood type you have used to achieve such a nice result? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted February 17, 2010 Report Share Posted February 17, 2010 Thanks. I used Narra, a local tropical hardwood. You'd need hardwoods with tight grain to do checkering as anything less ends up being frayed or rough. A great wood to use accessible to you guys would be walnut. Link to post Share on other sites
Candyman Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 im here awesome work RenegadeCow, I tried checkering and made a mess of it, interesting about the wood type, I was usiong walnut which not have been the best. Anyway good job on that! Link to post Share on other sites
halofanatic333 Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 What is the point of stippling? Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 Better grip surface = Better weapon handling. *edit* - And it looks cool. Link to post Share on other sites
Skarclaw Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 What is the point of stippling? For those with butter fingers. Link to post Share on other sites
halofanatic333 Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 For those with butter fingers. Isn't that the point of checkering or a rubber surface... Plus it looks disgusting (IMO), kind of like the gun got a disease. Link to post Share on other sites
Pkekyo-Nor Posted March 2, 2010 Report Share Posted March 2, 2010 Not everything is checkered or rubberized from the get-go, that's where stippling comes in. Also, under certain conditions it can be fare more efficient than both of the aforementioned Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted March 3, 2010 Report Share Posted March 3, 2010 Better grip surface = Better weapon handling. Especially in the rain. Link to post Share on other sites
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