ahadsz Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 Wow thats very accurate, imagine that with .25's and damn i bet half those fliers would hit. This would be a sure buy not gonna lie, and snoop what sight is that? Where can it be purchased? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted September 16, 2010 Report Share Posted September 16, 2010 (edited) I was using .25g BBs. Those BBs come out of the barrel at about 310 FPS (with .25g BBs). Why that low? I put a flow restrictor/ o-ring over the flute valve. I have one mag at the moment and had been popping rounds prior to filming. There were really no fliers (BB's that sharply veer off path). The gun was not shooting from the same spot. If I found that the BB fell short, I aimed a little bit higher. When I did that for the next shot, the BB flew with optimal hop so the shot looks like it shot high. Again, the video does not demonstrate the gun's accuracy but the range at which shots could reach out to. Even then, if you pop enough rounds at that distance, you're bound to hit your target. --------------------- The sight I have on my WE PDW Open Bolt GBBR is a replica C-More sight. Edited September 16, 2010 by sacairsoftsn00py Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ahadsz Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 ok ill try to find it one, it looks very nice..., since it shooting pretty hot i bet you could even get away with .28 gram bb's you know? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 You could. Its shooting just right for me with the o-ring/flow restrictor mod I used. Depending on the temperature I could be shooting 300 FPS with .25's up to 330 FPS with .25g BBs. That means that even at 90 degrees, I should be shooting under 400 FPS with .20g BBs. If you're shooting the stock velocity...use .28g BBs if you want to. I have before and the gun definitely has a significant improvement in terms of range. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ahadsz Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 yeah i most likely will, and I cant find that sight can you pm me where you got it from? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GrenadierMasada Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 Awesome stuff snoop, youre info on the PDW is greatly appreciated. Im still gonna be getting the SCAR b/c the local shop only has those rifles at the moment but in the furture i'll be getting in to these PDWs. Now, to sell my VSR10 to get a PDW. Hah. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 Awesome stuff snoop, youre info on the PDW is greatly appreciated. Im still gonna be getting the SCAR b/c the local shop only has those rifles at the moment but in the furture i'll be getting in to these PDWs. Now, to sell my VSR10 to get a PDW. Hah. I would honestly not bother with the WE SCAR. Why? One is that it's running off of the old AWSS/Escort System. Nozzles will fail and the hop is crappy. Yes, that means that you'll have to spend money fixing it. By the time you end up with a working gun, you'll end up paying as much if not more than a WE PDW open bolt GBBR. Then you'd still end up having issues with it. Save yourself the trouble, money, and the heart ache by waiting and saving up for the WE PDW Open Bolt GBBR. Just order stuff overseas It'll be worth it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GrenadierMasada Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 I would honestly not bother with the WE SCAR. Why? One is that it's running off of the old AWSS/Escort System. Nozzles will fail and the hop is crappy. Yes, that means that you'll have to spend money fixing it. By the time you end up with a working gun, you'll end up paying as much if not more than a WE PDW open bolt GBBR. Then you'd still end up having issues with it. Save yourself the trouble, money, and the heart ache by waiting and saving up for the WE PDW Open Bolt GBBR. Just order stuff overseas It'll be worth it I actually was gonna do that, order from Evike (bc the %10 discount) or RATECH (upgraded models), but im unsure if complete replicas would get seized, although iv'e order a ton of gear from Evike with no issues shipping to Guam (US Territory). So the Scar even after all the Generations ad fixes, still has issues? i've heard god stuff about it more so than the PDW. Dang, im stuck again deciding. lol ######. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 Some of RA-Tech stuff are questionable in terms of long term performance. They make really nice machined stuff but some of their items just don't hold up. Their NPAS valves are notorious for malfunctioning. I'm sure their steel parts are fine. I'm just really wary about buying their stuff. As it is right now, my WE has been holding up well. Depending on when the gun fails, I might decide to just purchase OEM WE parts for my WE PDW Open Bolt PDW so I won't have to worry about fitting issues and what not. Writing proper reviews are time consuming. I might end up doing just a concise writeup on mine and what I ended up doing to it and evaluate its performance based on those modifications. Then at least people will know what the WE PDW Open Bolt GBBR is capable of. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GrenadierMasada Posted September 17, 2010 Report Share Posted September 17, 2010 (edited) Some of RA-Tech stuff are questionable in terms of long term performance. They make really nice machined stuff but some of their items just don't hold up. Their NPAS valves are notorious for malfunctioning. I'm sure their steel parts are fine. I'm just really wary about buying their stuff. As it is right now, my WE has been holding up well. Depending on when the gun fails, I might decide to just purchase OEM WE parts for my WE PDW Open Bolt PDW so I won't have to worry about fitting issues and what not. Writing proper reviews are time consuming. I might end up doing just a concise writeup on mine and what I ended up doing to it and evaluate its performance based on those modifications. Then at least people will know what the WE PDW Open Bolt GBBR is capable of. I dig the gun to be honest, and would rather have a PDW (it was my first choice) but since the Scar is here at a local shop and majority of users here have said it works fine with all the revisions of the Steel innards and Replaced Butt-stock plate (by WE), im gonna start with it. Then get a PDW eventually. I don't mind tinkering, i actually dig all you're little bits to make the PDW be an even more awesome GBBR. I hope i can find a similar Scar Thread somewhere that has all the little tinkers in one place. The only thing i can find is the Bolt Lock Mech malfunctioning and the mags seating on the brass tube properly with a o-ring shim here and there. I'll eventually get a stinger hop and better bucking if the hop doesn't settle in after a few hundred rounds. Sorry, i know this is a PDW thread lol Edited September 17, 2010 by GrenadierMasada Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 got a small problem with my pdw open bolt. when in semi it fires well and has enough blowback to lock the bolt back when empty. but when i switch it to full auto it doesnt cycle well, the first shot will have slow blowback then followed by a strong one. sometimes it stops halfway and sometimes the bolt cant cock the hammer so i have to rack the charging handle again. when i flip it back to semi it fires great again. cooldown is not an issue it just refuse to cycle well on full auto. is it a problem with the trigger mechanism? if so what specific part do you guys think is wrong? thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 (edited) You might need to clean your bolt carrier group and then apply lube. Ran into an issue with my WE PDW last night. The hinge screws for the stock tightened them selves after some use. One of em decided to snap on me! Now I have to order a replacement for it Edited September 19, 2010 by sacairsoftsn00py Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ahadsz Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Oh no, we your starting to dissapoint, maybe its time to wait for the kwa m4 gbb, how lovely those are. Snoopy is that expected for screws to snap or no? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted September 19, 2010 Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 (edited) You might need to clean your bolt carrier group and then apply lube. Ran into an issue with my WE PDW last night. The hinge screws for the stock tightened them selves after some use. One of em decided to snap on me! Now I have to order a replacement for it I had this happen to me last week, was lucky to catch the bolt. Going to work on a temp fix tomorrow if I can. Doesnt help that it appears no-one has the required part(s) in stock. Edited September 19, 2010 by Reppyboyo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted September 20, 2010 Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 A guy that was running a WE "closed bolt" PDW GBBR today lost one of the screws that held the stock in place while playing a game. His remaining two pieces would have made my PDW fully functional again He kept bugging me about my KJW M4 GBBR...how he would trade his PDW so I can use it for bits and pieces and cash in exchange for my KJW M4 GBBR. I had to tell him no several times Don't know what's with the screw. Bad material of choice...or bad specs I suppose. They could have done it differently but the way they did it may be the only way to keep the gun as authentic as possible. One of my friends has my open bolt PDW at the moment and he'll be working on a fix for it. Knowing him, I'm not going to be disappointed. If I do, it'll be a first... Aside from the hinge screws, gun fires awesome! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted September 20, 2010 Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 (edited) my pdw is clean and well lubed it also fires flawlessly in semi. i can also do double triple taps without any hiccups. but when in auto thats where the problem begins. one thing i noticed different is now with very little force i can switch the selector to safe even when its not cocked. a few of my friends borrowed my pdw and one of them might have forced the selector to safe. UPDATE: turns out my trigger mech is gunked up and that caused it to fire erratically in full auto. without disassembling the trigger group i sprayed huge amounts of brake cleaner in it. that removed oil and shavings i only re-lubed the hammer roller and then tried it in full auto. its now working fine! but i can still switch the selector to safe even when the rifle is not cocked. is that suppose to happen? if not what part of my trigger mech got damaged? the silver screw on the hinge once tightened up on me too. but instead of forcing the stock to fold i loosened the screw first. i also lock tighted that screw but tightened it with little torque only. Edited September 20, 2010 by mnmc10 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted September 20, 2010 Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 Started having problems with auto today. Semi works fine but sounds odd. Auto is very slow. Noticed that it appears to be munching the seal on the PDW mags, my M4 mag seal is untouched and works flawlessly. Not sure why its started doing this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted September 20, 2010 Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 (edited) Problem found, kinda. Something in my trigger mech has broke. The valve striker tends to retract only half way now, causing the mag to vent its gas. Might be part #66, had this problem with my old Scar. How disappointing. Anyone have a guide on removing the trigger mech on the PDW? Edited September 20, 2010 by Reppyboyo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted September 20, 2010 Report Share Posted September 20, 2010 remove screws inside the grip inside the receiver behind the trigger mech and the screw on the left selector. pry off the triangular pin holder then remove one pin. the one with no rounded head. push the hammer down while pulling the auto sear forward then slide out the selector. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 (edited) Got it, cheers. Sure enough part #66 is broke, exactly the same as my scar. Oh well, cheap replacement anyway. Edited September 21, 2010 by Reppyboyo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 remove screws inside the grip remove screws inside the receiver (behind the trigger box) remove the screw on the RIGHT selector push the hammer down (cocked) while pulling the auto sear forward then slide out the selector pry off the triangular pin holder then remove one pin(the one with no rounded head) using a punch (punch towards the left side (of when the gun is pointed away from you). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Got it, cheers. Sure enough part #66 is broke, exactly the same as my scar. Oh well, cheap replacement anyway. does your part #66 look like this: or does it look like this: notice the base of where the pins usually break Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 (edited) Yea I got it thanks. I didnt know there was a detent under the grip preventing the removal of the selector. One that was out all was well. Already ordered a steel valve locker (part #66). The usual part of it broke off and got jammed in the trigger mech. Would recommend you replace the same part when you can. EDIT: You post too fast. It looks the the evike picture, except the topmost part is now snapped off. Edited September 21, 2010 by Reppyboyo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 You'll end up wearing down the hammer...then you'll have to spend monies on a steel hammer. Then a steel valve knocker and then possibly a steel trigger How long did part #66 last you? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 i suggest you buy a stock part66 then sand the edges of that part and the valve striker. my guess is its catching each other and has too much friction thats why it keeps on breaking. thanks for the correction snoop Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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