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ghostsniper48

WE GBB PDW

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i suggest you buy a stock part66 then sand the edges of that part and the valve striker. my guess is its catching each other and has too much friction thats why it keeps on breaking.

 

+1

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You'll end up wearing down the hammer...then you'll have to spend monies on a steel hammer.

 

Then a steel valve knocker

 

and then possibly a steel trigger

 

How long did part #66 last you?

 

The contact area of part #66 to the trigger is very small and exerts very little pressure. My main M4 has a steel valve knocker ( part #66 ) and firing pin assembly from Ra-Tech and after 30k rounds it still has the original v1 trigger group. I only filed it a bit where the sear grips the trigger after ~15k rounds.

 

For the trigger group to function properly you need to change the valve knocker + firing pin assembly and properly maintain the trigger group clean ( and this is very important because with the grease applied you can accumulate dirt and metal shavings pretty fast ) and well lubed, mine has now >30k rounds without failure :)

 

BTW, i just came from playing in the Czech Republic ( 3 days game ) and the M4 not only didn't had any problem ( 0 leaks from the new gen m4 GG mags, they r awesome ) and people were impressed how well it shot with -5º with propane ;)

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By the way, regarding the mod you did to the hop unit, did you happen to take a pic of the mod?

 

Not bothered to open the hop yet (new rubber en route) so not quite sure what you did going by description.

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I just took a dremel and attached a cut off disk on it. I then put a notch in the middle of the bottom surface of the "nub" that pushes down on the hop bucking so it'll have the same effect as this little sucker:

 

Big-Out-H-nub-for-all-AEG-Hop-Up.jpg

 

-----------------------------------

 

0afc2ded.jpg

60b19b24.jpg

c3ca52c7.jpg

 

Has an aluminum bushing (in the middle). Nylon bushings are inserted in between the hinges. A steel M3 screw goes through the aluminum and nylon bushings and is held in place by an M3 nut with nylock's. As seen on the photos, washers are also in place.

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took the gun out for a skirmish today and found that the gun was light striking on both semi and full auto....

 

switched to duster gas and the gun shot much better (at a lower velocity however)

 

Temp was very humid at 93+ degrees out at the field today.

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just discovered that when i put plumbers tape in between the loading nozzle assembly rof is increased and blowback is noticeably stronger. i also have no excess fumes of gas coming out of the ejection port anymore. ive been experimenting with float valves alot and that caused the loading nozzle assembly to loosen up a bit. so adding plumbers tape in between, sealed it back and minimized spilled gas that goes for the blowback action.

 

 

ill see if i can put an oring there similar design as an air seal nozzle for aegs. silicon sealant might work too. but if you havent disassembled the loading nozzle ever you guys dont need this mod cause im sure those two parts are still tight.

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My own has been run on propane only, well over 1k rounds.

#66 broken, hinge broke.

 

Otherwise all is well, only main gripe is keeping the fps within legal limits.

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My own has been run on propane only, well over 1k rounds.

#66 broken, hinge broke.

 

Otherwise all is well, only main gripe is keeping the fps within legal limits.

 

Hinge? Should i order another #66 for when the day comes that it breaks? I just order my PDW w/ no Trades from a local retailer.

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Hinge? Should i order another #66 for when the day comes that it breaks? I just order my PDW w/ no Trades from a local retailer.

 

Just get the RA-tech one and you're good. The original one is VERY weak and will constantly break! It's the MAJOR failure point on WE's trigger system.

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Update:

 

I no longer own a WE PDW Open Bolt GBBR. Sold it yesterday.

 

Owned it for about 5 weeks.

 

Aside from light striking, I snapped the loading nozzle spring that attaches it to the back of the bolt carrier group. I just stretched the spring out some and bent a couple of coils to spec. The gun worked fine as it should after that...

 

Thus ends my experience with the WE PDW Open Bolt.

 

So why did I sell it?

 

Its not that I didn't like it....its just that I'm bored with it. That and my KJW M4 beats the gun in terms of reliability and performance. Granted that the accuracy of my WE PDW was pretty good, the KJW M4 still beats it in terms of performing reliably regardless of the weather.

 

Next up on my plate: Tokyo Marui M4 SOCOM Blow Back AEG....This one set me back $507 for the gun. That's 4 bucks cheaper than what I shelled out for my Magpul PTS Masada ACR AEG...lol!

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Ok so I'm pretty lost trying to find open bolt magazines for the open bolt pdw. The Evike tech said the ones they carry don't work with the open bolt version and the ones from wgc and redwolf are sold out. I'm gonna check ehobby for what they carry. I see on ratechs website they sell the open bolt version mag and as well the kit. Is it just the feed lip that's different on the open bolt mags? I'm looking to order from evike bc they offer discounts on the mags and accessories, but do I need to get the magazines conversion kit from ratech as well? If that's the case I might as well just order the mags from ratechs site.

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M4 or PDW type?

 

I purchased the PDW type from WGC which already had the open bolt kit on it.

 

For M4 mags you need to buy the normal mag + a open bolt kit for now.

Im sure whenever the open bolt kits for the M4/SCAR/416 come out the M4 mags will start coming with open bolt kits already installed.

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Sorry. Looking for M4 type mags. The only ones I can find that are openbolt are from ratech. So If I order from evike I'd have to get the ratech kit. might as well get the ratech m4 openbolt mags.

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Here in Guam? Haha, i wish. Not too many GBBRs running around.

 

But i figure the headache to do the open bolt swap out is a pain? and why not just bypass that and get one already setup.

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No, not at all.

 

Remove one screw, remove top of mag (feed lips + rubber) then remove old follower.

Replace with new follower, slap on new top and screw in.

Doesn't even take a minute.

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