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ghostsniper48

WE GBB PDW

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I was mainly talking about the thickness, but just a square would do too, I suppose.

 

Ben.

 

Well, there's a large difference between the buffer in the open bolt system and the closed (AWSS) system. I just remembered this, and that is that the closed bolt pdw has a recoil spring and guide BEHIND IT. The open bolt system has the spring located IN FRONT OF IT. This results in having less transferred force onto the lower receiver, which means that there will be considerably less broken lowers. A drawback to this system, though is that over time, the spring will start to decompress, meaning that the seal between the nozzle and the hop-up will be less... sealed. You'll later have to find another spring for it, which probably means that you'll have to buy it from China, meaning expensive shipping. Also, field stripping and removing and putting back the BCG will be a lot more of a pain in the *albartroth*.

 

Long story short, the buffer in the open bolt system wouldn't be transferable to the closed bolt system.

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Spence, it sounds awesome! Will test it against my SCAR when I can get down to Worthing.

 

It's a shame about the buffer. I guess it's either convert to Open Bolt, or risk a cracked receiver.

 

Ben.

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Evike is offering the PDW for a pretty good price, especially if you dig up a good coupon code. What do they mean by "Limited Edition"? It appears to be the long black "closed bolt" version with markings, but knowing Evike I could get just about anything when it actually arrives.

 

I found this store (Blowack Armory) in California that works exclusively on WE rifles, and for the purposes of this thread, the KAC PDW. They're legit...I purchased a WE 1911 MEU Custom and have heard good things on GasGuns.info .

http://www.blowbacka...egory_s/118.htm

I might get the general "once-over" that sounds like they'll tune up your gun and make it shoot well. This gives me a little more hope about WE. biggrin.gif

 

I work in that area and was just there today, they fixed one of my old leaky CO2 mags while I waited. Good people and true WE experts.

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^^ do they have a forum or something? If they are real WE specialists, it would be nice for people in other country to contact them if they have questions or problems?

 

Has anyone tried to contact WE about the broken receivers? Do they offer a solution?

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Someone on this thread mentioned that their PDW cycles better on M4 mags than it does on its normal mags. I am noticing this also.

 

When cocking and riding the action forward, test the PDW with the M4 mag, it seems to have less resistance than on the KAC mag. The KAC mag also seems to cycle slower, and has less power/kick than the M4 mag.

 

Whats strange then is that, I sorted out the resistance issue between the mags, but the kick and output power is still noticeably less. I am wondering if its something to do with magazine design.

 

Not only that, does anyone have issues when on auto/bump firing (I could only bump fire where I am), the blowback cycle is inconsistent and the power of the rifle drops quite quickly and seems to spray a lot of gas out. I observe this with the AGMs with w/ NPASs bolts also.

 

Can someone test these on their PDW?

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Can someone test these on their PDW?

 

I'll test it next Tuesday, since I'm out of Green Gas, and the propane adapter's coming then. If someone else's up to testing it, I'm for it.

 

Also, is the flash hider loctited? Are the threads CW, or CCW?

 

ST6-DEVGRU[/url]' date='23 June 2010 - 08:04 PM' timestamp='1277340293' post='2341804']

the silver piece on the pistol grip, is that a WE logo or some other symbol?

 

If you get the non-marking version, it's the WE logo. With markings, I think it's the KAC logo.

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WE PDW

 

I must say that this is my favorite GBBR in my collection to date!

This little wonder packs a punch and the recoil is simply amazing!!

I found the original KAC pistol grip too small & slippery for my liking so I swapped it for a RS Hogue AR grip (minimal modification).

As for the RS PMag, all of my WE mag internals have been converted which allows for a custom fit resulting in maximum gas efficiency! If I can make one suggestion it would be to ditch the stock PDW mag that it comes with! Its' gas capacity is much smaller and that results in the guns inability to cycle/function properly! Stick with the original WE M4 mags and you'll be just fine.

 

On a side note, I have noticed how well this gun recoils and I think this is why I think the lower receivers are breaking! Does anyone know if there is a CNC version of the bolt coming out? The weight of the stock bolt is too heavy and it transfers too much force to the rear of the receiver...I'd like to see one made out of aluminum like the one BoomArms made for the SCAR!!!

 

 

 

WEPDW039.jpg

 

WEPDW038.jpg

 

WEPDW046.jpg

 

WEPDW041.jpg

 

WEPDW007.jpg

 

WEPDW004.jpg

 

WE internal mag comparison:

WE PDW (left) Original WE M4/SCAR (right)

The PDW cycles much better using the original WE M4 style mag.

 

WEPDW024.jpg

 

The PDW mag internal is proprietary to the plastic shell it is housed in and cannot be modified to fit a RS PMag outer shell.

WEPDW032.jpg

 

I found that the PDW rubber seal atop the mag was too recessed and did not provide a very good seal against the brass tube when inserted into mag well. This resulted in poor gas efficiency, fewer shots per mag and the bolt would not lock back...at all !!

 

WEPDW033.jpg

 

WEPDW026.jpg

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Funny that I find the rubber seal was sitting too far up/too tight. On my 7 X M4 mags they was much looser than all 4 X PDW mags I had.

 

Yeah the power and kick is less on the PDW mags, but I partially figured out why after I modified my WE M4 to take PDW mags. Its how the bullet valve gas opening is not aligned to the rubber seal.

 

However in testing the PDW mags on my WE M4, I found that although the PDW mags initially shot at the same power/kick as my M4 mags, the PDW mags on followup shots were weaker than M4 mags. I am guessing its due to the plastic casing of the PDW mags not allowing the latent heat from the environment to be reabsorbed by the magazine, so prolonging the cooldown effect and taking longer to re-equalise.

 

 

On a side note: In my test I even installed a System 7 flute valve and a modified KJW rocket flute valve into the WE PDW to see if I could improve cycling :) It worked, it didn't improve cycling, but FPS was about 30fps lower.

 

Plus I lightened the steel bolt :)

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On a side note: In my test I even installed a System 7 flute valve and a modified KJW rocket flute valve into the WE PDW to see if I could improve cycling :) It worked, it didn't improve cycling, but FPS was about 30fps lower.

 

Plus I lightened the steel bolt :)

 

I take it you have an "OPEN BOLT" version of the WE PDW ?

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On a side note: In my test I even installed a System 7 flute valve and a modified KJW rocket flute valve into the WE PDW to see if I could improve cycling smile.gif It worked, it didn't improve cycling, but FPS was about 30fps lower.

 

 

Can you explain how exactly you installed the System 7 and KJW valves please?

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Kevorkian, if anything, a neoprene mod should help a little for the absorption of recoil. Just peel off the plastic crappy buffer and super-glue, or if the residue is still there, just reapply it, fabric facing the bolt. Not sure if this would increase the lifespan, but it theoretically should.

 

Also, I've noticed that the anodizing is very weak. I've been able to start rubbing it off with my finger nail. I wish WE would do a real Type III hard coat. That type is able to last a while. My flashlight has that coat, and it only wears if it's dropped on concrete or if it rubs on steel for a long time, such as a steel split-ring. Other than that, it DOESN'T come off.

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Kevorkian, if anything, a neoprene mod should help a little for the absorption of recoil. Just peel off the plastic crappy buffer and super-glue, or if the residue is still there, just reapply it, fabric facing the bolt. Not sure if this would increase the lifespan, but it theoretically should.

 

 

 

I appreciate your suggestion but it is the BOLT that is striking the lower receiver...it's TOO HEAVY!

You can add shock absorbing materials but you lessen the overall travel of the bolt resulting in the loss of the bolt stop function! It is the exact same problem that the WE SCAR suffered from and I found that the lightweight aluminum bolt was the only remedy and I have yet to see my stock plastic hinge plate break!

I'm just going to wait until some more aftermarket accessories are released before I put too many rounds through my PDW!

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I appreciate your suggestion but it is the BOLT that is striking the lower receiver...it's TOO HEAVY!

You can add shock absorbing materials but you lessen the overall travel of the bolt resulting in the loss of the bolt stop function! It is the exact same problem that the WE SCAR suffered from and I found that the lightweight aluminum bolt was the only remedy and I have yet to see my stock plastic hinge plate break!

I'm just going to wait until some more aftermarket accessories are released before I put too many rounds through my PDW!

 

Actually, I still can use my bolt catch, but I see your point. Too much mass moving at too great a speed. Or WE needs to maker their lowers of 7075 aluminum billet.

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Actually, I still can use my bolt catch, but I see your point. Too much mass moving at too great a speed. Or WE needs to maker their lowers of 7075 aluminum billet.

 

Now you're talking...Mmmmm, CNC BILLET !!!

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Here is the picture of the closed and open bolt mods :)

 

Here is the system 7 valve inside a closed bolt nozzle -

 

system7pdwclosedbolt.jpg

 

 

 

Here is the lightened steel bolt (closed bolt system), and an open bolt with a spring guide + pistol spring - The recoil spring is from an M1911. It works well, though I did something else now to the bolt that is even better. (Adjustable spring tension system for cold weather and hot weather cycling)

 

boltmods.jpg

 

 

I noticed that on my open bolt system when I am on prone and my magazine is resting on the ground, the PDW Open bolt refuses to cycle. This is because the magazine is pressed so hard against the blowback unit that it prevents it from cycling.

 

Subsequently this is the mod I did to still allow the weapon to fire even after the magazine has been pressed up into the bolt. Its made from a sliver of steel from a hacksaw, and 2 screws. It prevents the magazine being pressed higher than is allowed.

 

modtoallowprone.jpg

 

 

Also solved is the open bolt magazine lock back issue where the empty magazine cannot lock the bolt back. Its an easy blowtorch + hammer to "forge" the bolt catch lever back into the desired position to engage the bolt lock plate on the magazine :)

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Evike is offering the PDW for a pretty good price, especially if you dig up a good coupon code. What do they mean by "Limited Edition"? It appears to be the long black "closed bolt" version with markings, but knowing Evike I could get just about anything when it actually arrives.

 

Kojak, this sounds like Evike trying to unload some unreliable 1st generation PDW's while they can (on unsuspecting customers) . I love how they are claiming they made the price drop "out of the goodness of their heart, because consumers really love the gun"..... if anyone believes that, then I have a bridge to sell them. WETTI makes junk guns and the PDW is the lemon for all time. Just my 2 cents and personal experience.

 

 

 

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