Hammerfall Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 I'm running a King Arms buffer tube on my SR-16E3. With the stock buffer tube i can run a 1200mAh 7.4v no trouble, just without collapsing the stock right down. Where as i can run 7.4v, MOSFET in the King Arms I'll get some pics up too. I'm using a RS AFG, RS XTMs and a VFC PEQ-15. Used it for the first time on Sunday, it was stunning, literally out-the-box performance Link to post Share on other sites
ctres94 Posted February 8, 2010 Report Share Posted February 8, 2010 @whudafxup: thanks, I Know that didn't have anything to do with knights rifles in particular, but I was looking for a 7.4 volt battery that would fit in a buffer tube, and you mentioned it, so I though I might as well ask. Link to post Share on other sites
08kecarv Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 So are those hot power lipos any good? I've been looking for a second battery for my SR15 and since my charger refuses to charge it, maybe a new charger too. Should I just get a KA lipo set? Also good news for those looking for ambi kits; I've been in talks with KA reps lately and they're highly considering making a bolt catch/ ambi selector switch kit for AEGs for purchase. We're going through talks about it right now. Link to post Share on other sites
hayabusa46 Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 In my SR15-E3 IWS, I use this battery G&P EP Power 7.4V 1200mAh 15C Lithium Battery (Tamiya Plug), but I sugest u to change your plug in AEG, and go for Deans, and buy this model G&P EP Power 7.4V 1200mAh 15C Lithium Battery (T-Plug Link to post Share on other sites
Vila Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 @08kecarv: I'm not really impressed. They work, just not with a lot of power. They don't handle the cold well either. (around 35 F) Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 I sugest u to change your plug in AEG, and go for Deans, and buy this model G&P EP Power 7.4V 1200mAh 15C Lithium Battery (T-Plug I've got those batteries and they work fine in all my guns. Personally I use 11.1V lipos, but the 7.4V lipos are good backups. Granted I'm not playing at freezing temperatures, but I have yet to have a Lipo fail me (knock on wood). I generally loan out the above batteries to friends who batteries die on them because I know the lower ROF will be more forgiving on their guns. Link to post Share on other sites
Pkekyo-Nor Posted February 9, 2010 Report Share Posted February 9, 2010 Yes, the G&P 7.4v LiPos are brilliant, I've had them hold up pretty damn well in sub-zero temperatures. I now run them in all my guns And for the price - they're fantastic Link to post Share on other sites
BrooklynBorn Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 but I sugest u to change your plug in AEG, and go for Deans, Why do people prefer Deans connectors? I have never understood that? Is there an electrical advantage? The size? I know Tamiyas are bigger. Or is it in charging? Link to post Share on other sites
Pkekyo-Nor Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 Less resistance (and you really notice the difference), and also the smaller size. Link to post Share on other sites
Reincarnation... Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 And the one size only for Dean's Ultras, no need to deal with small or large Tamiya connectors. That and if you need do you could attach a large Tamiya battery to a male Ultra connector. Link to post Share on other sites
BrooklynBorn Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 I thought there were two Deans connectors. Small and large. This shows mini and large http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/catalogsearch/r...y=0&cat=336 Link to post Share on other sites
Reincarnation... Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 (edited) I used the term Dean Ultra for a reason, as they are the majority used Dean plug in the airsoft application. Dean Ultra Plug are rated at 40A. While Dean Micro Plug are rated at 12A. They are two model of plugs made by WS Dean and I referred to only one of them. Edited February 10, 2010 by Reincarnation... Link to post Share on other sites
BrooklynBorn Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 Ah. Sorry. Did not know that. Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 Easier to manage versus Kyosho and Tamiya connectors as well. Link to post Share on other sites
Arion Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 Hey guys, I finally returned to my original love and bought a VFC SR16E3 IWS. It's awesome, no surprise there. I started bolting on lots and lots of *suitcase*-hot Magpul ###### on all the rails. Pictuars will be coming up soon. One thing though. I've got a f***ing orange flash-hider on it (the VFC FH came in a plastic bag). And I can't take it off. Since the barrel is CCW, I have to turn CW to take off the FH right? It's really tight I guess and it's all smooth so I can't seem to get a proper hold on it with pliers. *sigh* Oh, and I also got a small metallic plate with KAC marked on it. I think I have to superglue it over the selector. Which one does it go to? The left one? or the right ambi one? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 One thing though. I've got a f***ing orange flash-hider on it (the VFC FH came in a plastic bag). And I can't take it off. Since the barrel is CCW, I have to turn CW to take off the FH right? It's really tight I guess and it's all smooth so I can't seem to get a proper hold on it with pliers. *sigh* Yes, it's a CCW thread and you're supposed to turn it clockwise to remove it. They probably super glued the plastic flashhider in place. Look and see if they pinned the FH in place too. If they did, the course of action will be more dramatic. If they did NOT pin it: Being entirely smooth gives you little torque-ability. This is what you do: drill a hole through the flashhider going through one side and out the other. The hole should be large enough to fit a good sized philips head screwdriver through. Once you drill the hole insert the philips head screw driver through it and see if you can torque/twist off the flashhider. If it still won't come off, you can try heating it with a hairdryer or heat gun first then twist. If they DID pin the flashhider ... you might have to use a dremel with cutting wheel and carefully destroy the pin and part of the plastic flashhider's surrounding material. Don't cut too far down, once you see the barrel's metal you should stop. Once the pin is removed, torque the flashhider off. Oh, and I also got a small metallic plate with KAC marked on it. I think I have to superglue it over the selector. Which one does it go to? The left one? or the right ambi one? It goes on the left. The KAC marking should read right side up when the gun is in safe. Link to post Share on other sites
reaper16 Posted February 10, 2010 Report Share Posted February 10, 2010 If it isnt pinned just use a pair of pliers or spanning wrench and just break the the plastic one . Link to post Share on other sites
jdizzle921 Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 If it isnt pinned just use a pair of pliers or spanning wrench and just break the the plastic one . Agreed I had the same problem with my VFC PDW I just got in the mail and I used a pair of vice grips and had a friend hold the barrel extension with a jar top holder (Those little circular rubber pads) That worked pretty well but if definitely takes some oomph to break the glue they have on those flashider threads... Link to post Share on other sites
lambolurker Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Agreed I had the same problem with my VFC PDW I just got in the mail and I used a pair of vice grips and had a friend hold the barrel extension with a jar top holder (Those little circular rubber pads) That worked pretty well but if definitely takes some oomph to break the glue they have on those flashider threads... Strap wrench Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 It's worse when they're pinned in place. I've had to dremel a few of those things in the past. Link to post Share on other sites
BrooklynBorn Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Is it that big an issue? Is it standard with every VFC? Or does it depend on where you order from? Link to post Share on other sites
fiddlesticks4220 Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 It's worse when they're pinned in place. I've had to dremel a few of those things in the past. If you had to saw a flash hider of a gun because Allen was striped, you will feel my pain. I know what you are thinking, and the answer is I was VERY careful Link to post Share on other sites
Arion Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 Thanks everyone for your prompt advice! To UscmCorps: luckily, it wasn't pinned. However, they used some kind of gooey muck or threadlock. That's why it was such a PITA to remove. I torqued really hard with a wrench and it sloooowly started turning. Once I remover everything, I cleaned the threads with a toothbrush. Everything was fine, nothing damaged! Oh, Thanks for the pointers too concerning the KAC ornamental selector plate. I browsed the thread looking for previous builds and I figured it out. For those interested, it came from Safara Airsoft (am I allowed to say this? I don't know what's Arnies policy about quoting stores). It seems they do this to all their guns. Anyways, I'm very happy with their service, I ordered monday and got the gun wednesday! I'll stop my ranting here. I'm gonna field this badboy this saturday for the first time. Reading USCMCorps AAR when he first tried out his 16 incher, my hopes are flying pretty high! Pics this afternoon, when I'm back from university. Link to post Share on other sites
Titleist Posted February 11, 2010 Report Share Posted February 11, 2010 I would move your AFG as far forward as will comfortably allow. By having it back that far you're going to create some bad shooting positions, and given that you've got the SR-15 style rail I'd use that space effectively. Link to post Share on other sites
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