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Knight's Armament Rifles/Other


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I have tried that, but it doesn't feel good if any closer to the front end. It's pretty comfortable as it is. I'm not saying it's a good shooting position if it were a real SR, but it's good as is. Not sure why I like it that close, I have normal length arms and all that :/

 

Oh, I see some people are now putting SCAR H flash hiders on their ARs. :D

 

 

You damn copy cats! :P

Hey hey, it's a free market out there. I'm allowed to buy one :P

Edited by j3T
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Maybe this is the schism between how I run my real guns, vs airsoft. But you're not directly looking for COMFORT, you're looking for the most POSITIVE control you can attain on the rifle. You don't walk around driving your rifle out all the time, so it's not like you need it to be comfortable 100 percent of the time.

 

Maybe it really doesn't work for you, but from experience I'd maybe split the difference and move it forward a bit more, otherwise you're relegating that nice long rail to what amounts to a 7" carbine rail with everything pushed back.

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If your out to a game for 8 hours or more a day, that gun can get pretty uncomfortable to hold in the most accurate position all the time. You'll see many videos of soldiers in the battlefield holding their guns as close to the center of gravity as possible because due to comfort issues of prolonged battle. But that AFG was designed for positive control with you supporting hand out in front of you. I'm not saying remove it, but I find that if I'm holding the rifle that close to the magwell it's more comfortable to have my hand more vertical (doing that would also keep your supporting arm clear of the magazine).

 

But then again that ACS does increase length quite a bit so it could work better. I normally keep my stock pretty collapsed and I use a standard CAR stock because it's shorter and I prefer a more tight in position.

 

But this is airsoft, go with what you're most comfortable with, or with what you just like the best.

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j3T:

 

Ah im loving it. Good photographing as well, what kind of scope is that? Far away it could fool to be a Comp M4S.

 

Thank you. It's a real russian PK-23. I prefer it over Aimpoints as it has a pulsating dot, makes it easier to see.

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When I got my M16A2 from ebaybanned customs opened my package and inside was a note saying that they altered the screw head holding the orange barrel inplace so that it could not be removed. Something along those lines. But Its nothing a 5/32 bit couldnt solve.

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@GhostSniper: Your front flip up sight is backwards fyi.

 

 

Some new pics; I added a MIAD and an M3 light for practicality and I just got the Surefire yesterday :D I love new toys :D :D :D

Oh and don't mind the plate on the MIAD, when I bought it the person failed to tell me that it didn't come with one so I had to make do.

 

 

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Some artistic action going on too:

 

 

 

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When I got my M16A2 from ebaybanned customs opened my package and inside was a note saying that they altered the screw head holding the orange barrel inplace so that it could not be removed. Something along those lines. But Its nothing a 5/32 bit couldnt solve.

Wow. I've never heard that one.

 

Flash hiders suck. After taking a blowtorch to me we scar one, i still can't get it off.

 

And MIADs don't come with the bottom plate? Or did you buy secondhand.

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And MIADs don't come with the bottom plate? Or did you buy secondhand.

 

 

Got it secondhand. The seller neglected to mention it lacked the bottom plate and I assumed it had it cause it looked like it did in the pic. Oh well, may not look the best but it works.

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Wow. I've never heard that one.

 

Flash hiders suck. After taking a blowtorch to me we scar one, i still can't get it off.

 

And MIADs don't come with the bottom plate? Or did you buy secondhand.

 

Use a gas stove and a wrench or a screwdriver. That's how i got mine off my WE M4, which i blue loc-tighted.

 

Edit: Wait, did WE pin your flash hider? My stock one wasn't pinned or loc-tited. There wasn't even a screw to prevent it from undoing itself.

The only reason i loc-tighted it was because it kept loosening itself.

Listen to Stealthbomber. Sorry for the confusion. :rolleyes:

Edited by alston251
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Use a gas stove and a wrench or a screwdriver. That's how i got mine off my WE M4, which i blue loc-tited.

To address the chain of posts that led to this, if your f/h is held on by a grub screw then you definitely DO NOT want to simply removing using force with a wrench.

At best you'll chew up the 14mm thread on the muzzle and, at worst, you'll bend or snap something.

 

If somebody's damaged the head of the grub screw so it can't be removed you can try drilling it out but, frankly, it's likely that the grub screw will be the hardest metal anywhere on your gun.

In that case I'd accept that the f/h is "sacrificial" and just attack the grub screw with a dremel cutting disk, cut several slots through the f/h and grub screw until the grub screw disintegrates and then just remove the hacked f/h and replace it.

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To address the chain of posts that led to this, if your f/h is held on by a grub screw then you definitely DO NOT want to simply removing using force with a wrench.

At best you'll chew up the 14mm thread on the muzzle and, at worst, you'll bend or snap something.

 

If somebody's damaged the head of the grub screw so it can't be removed you can try drilling it out but, frankly, it's likely that the grub screw will be the hardest metal anywhere on your gun.

In that case I'd accept that the f/h is "sacrificial" and just attack the grub screw with a dremel cutting disk, cut several slots through the f/h and grub screw until the grub screw disintegrates and then just remove the hacked f/h and replace it.

 

 

 

I just spent 30mins trying to drill freakin grub screw and I must agree it seemed like the hardest metal on the gun. Time to bust out the Dremel - should've started with it anyway.

 

@BFOUR:

 

Considering that customs opened my package, I am now thinking they destroyed the screw head holding the plastic FH on my gun.

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To lambolurker- it didn't come with a Knights flash hider? Damn.

 

 

It did come with the KAC TTB FH. I'm actually thinking about getting it chromed. I've made a couple phone calls yesterday but the shops requires a minimum volume before they take on a job. ANother option I'm considering is spray paint it with chrome, probably not gonna get the best result.

 

I can't seem to find a chromed version for AEG. ;)

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Use a gas stove and a wrench or a screwdriver. That's how i got mine off my WE M4, which i blue loc-tighted.

 

Edit: Wait, did WE pin your flash hider? My stock one wasn't pinned or loc-tited. There wasn't even a screw to prevent it from undoing itself.

The only reason i loc-tighted it was because it kept loosening itself.

Listen to Stealthbomber. Sorry for the confusion. :rolleyes:

There was no screw. No visible loctite. The damned thing just won't come off. I have tried the vice and the wrench, and even torquing it off. It hasn't even budged.

 

To address the chain of posts that led to this, if your f/h is held on by a grub screw then you definitely DO NOT want to simply removing using force with a wrench.

At best you'll chew up the 14mm thread on the muzzle and, at worst, you'll bend or snap something.

 

If somebody's damaged the head of the grub screw so it can't be removed you can try drilling it out but, frankly, it's likely that the grub screw will be the hardest metal anywhere on your gun.

In that case I'd accept that the f/h is "sacrificial" and just attack the grub screw with a dremel cutting disk, cut several slots through the f/h and grub screw until the grub screw disintegrates and then just remove the hacked f/h and replace it.

There is no screw. I heard the Evike ones came with red loctite, and I have had experience with red loctite, but this is like removing solid welding <_<

I hate to take up any more of this forums space, so I'll continue this through PM.

 

It did come with the KAC TTB FH. I'm actually thinking about getting it chromed. I've made a couple phone calls yesterday but the shops requires a minimum volume before they take on a job. ANother option I'm considering is spray paint it with chrome, probably not gonna get the best result.

 

I can't seem to find a chromed version for AEG. ;)

 

Oh good to know. I wonder if this action by customs is dependant on the retailer. Where did you buy from?

 

And why would any trades be covered? Isn't VFC completely licensed :unsure:

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