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It did come with the KAC TTB FH. I'm actually thinking about getting it chromed. I've made a couple phone calls yesterday but the shops requires a minimum volume before they take on a job. ANother option I'm considering is spray paint it with chrome, probably not gonna get the best result.

I felt the same.

 

DSC_2204Medium.jpg

 

I bought a cheap KAC f/h from EBB and just stuck a 6mm bolt all the way through it, tightened a nut onto the back and then stuck it in a drill and attacked it with some 800 grit emery paper then cleaned the paint out of the recesses with a dremel with a wire brush attached.

 

There is no screw. I heard the Evike ones came with red loctite, and I have had experience with red loctite, but this is like removing solid welding <_<

If there's no screw then obviously what I said doesn't apply. I was responding to what lambolurker was talking about.

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I felt the same.

 

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k167/_st..._2204Medium.jpg

 

I bought a cheap KAC f/h from EBB and just stuck a 6mm bolt all the way through it, tightened a nut onto the back and then stuck it in a drill and attacked it with some 800 grit emery paper then cleaned the paint out of the recesses with a dremel with a wire brush attached.

 

 

If there's no screw then obviously what I said doesn't apply. I was responding to what lambolurker was talking about.

 

 

U are my freakin hero! Thank you!!!! :D

 

If u ever decide to sell that FH, let me know.

Edited by lambolurker
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I bought a cheap KAC f/h from EBB and just stuck a 6mm bolt all the way through it, tightened a nut onto the back and then stuck it in a drill and attacked it with some 800 grit emery paper then cleaned the paint out of the recesses with a dremel with a wire brush attached.

 

All that work and now the production units (real ones) are solid black. They were nickel coated so they were this mid-tone gray. Something weird happened on the real ones when they went to black, it bumped out the outer diameter just enough to mess with the real suppressor.

 

Long story short, the silver ones are no more, now they're black again. :o

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All that work and now the production units (real ones) are solid black. They were nickel coated so they were this mid-tone gray. Something weird happened on the real ones when they went to black, it bumped out the outer diameter just enough to mess with the real suppressor.

 

Long story short, the silver ones are no more, now they're black again. :o

 

You make those poor guys feel like ###### chroming there guns, LMFAO, You have no idea how much laughing was done when I saw people doing that in airsoft. The real KAC turns black anyways after use....

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The real KAC turns black anyways after use....

TBH, I burned the front of mine with a blowlamp and then laquered it [/geek] but I don't really want to post pictures of that cos I'm not sure making a gun look realistic, like that, is totally wise idea. :unsure:

 

Something weird happened on the real ones when they went to black, it bumped out the outer diameter just enough to mess with the real suppressor.

Maybe a bit OT but wouldn't the black ones suffer with the same problem too?

In that case maybe the nickel ones would be better cos at least you can see how badly they need cleaning?

Unless, of course, the black ones don't have the same problem.

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TBH, I burned the front of mine with a blowlamp and then laquered it [/geek] but I don't really want to post pictures of that cos I'm not sure making a gun look realistic, like that, is totally wise idea. :unsure:

 

True, and my friend did something very similar. He just took a match and let osme of the smoke go to work.

 

How he was able to make it stay, I have no idea. But he doesn't ever take it outside, and when he travels its in the floor of his car, in a locked gun case.

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You make those poor guys feel like ###### chroming there guns, LMFAO, You have no idea how much laughing was done when I saw people doing that in airsoft. The real KAC turns black anyways after use....

 

 

Fortunately my AEGs are display queens only. If you come to my place and see my gun room, I bet you'll have a hard time trying to ID AEG from RS.

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Maybe a bit OT but wouldn't the black ones suffer with the same problem too?

In that case maybe the nickel ones would be better cos at least you can see how badly they need cleaning?

Unless, of course, the black ones don't have the same problem.

 

The raw inconel ones were just that, completely raw. Iconel doesn't rust or oxidize so it's totally fine. The nickel coated ones were a kind of gray/brown from the nickel coating. Because of that the outer diameter wasn't affected really. But yes, actually seeing the amount of carbon build up is important.

 

On the real ones you need to clean the slots after a high round count, as they start to kind of close up, and the gun turns in to "puff the magic dragon" mode, especially on an SBR. It's not really on topic to post it, but I have a photo of my 11.5" SBR kicking out a jet of flame about a yard long. They mostly turn black in the front 2/3rds of the muzzle brake, but the whole thing turns black if you have the can over it.

 

I'm glad. I always thought they looked kind of funny as silver-toned.

 

Most of the folks who use them aren't as fussy as you are ;)

 

The first triple taps, aka the 'in the raw' models never turn black, they just get coated in carbon.

 

Circling back, Stealth, the black ones are MEGA tight with the QDSS can. Yeah it's probably a better idea if you want to sell that design to field operators and stuff like that, but the nickel version (lets call it version 1.3) seemed the best. Especially since you can see when you've accumulated enough carbon to warrant a cleaning.

 

Anyways, I think that's as technical as I can get without straying in to too much of the real steel world. If anyone needs any reference specific to these, PM me so things are on topic.

 

Stealth, that said, nice work on your triple tap, looks bang on to the real deal.

Edited by Titleist
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Most of the folks who use them aren't as fussy as you are ;)

 

 

Never said I was fussy, nor do I commit enough to forums for anyone to be able imply that. However, yes you are right, as I would never justify spending $400 on a break. And before we go there, I've been around the block quite a few times if you know what I mean, and yes I have used them. Yes they're nice. No they're not worth it in my opinion. Plus, you must agree that 90% of people care very much about the look of their gun. Something about a shinning, silver part of my gun glistening in the sunlight just seems so unattractive to me..... ;)

Edited by MS3 Race
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Most of the folks who use them aren't as fussy as you are ;)

You said it yourself, it would be a plus for a real operator and not someone shooting paper targets.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first triple taps, aka the 'in the raw' models never turn black, they just get coated in carbon. AND Turn Black ;)

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah it's probably a better idea if you want to sell that design to field operators and stuff like that,

 

Hence the reason why silver looks funny, why would you want a chrome looking gun part?

 

SIGH*

photo40t.jpg

Edited by fiddlesticks4220
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Hey guys, fielded my 16" VFC SR16 E3 IWS sunday. It was pretty cold (-4° Celsius) and I powered it up with a 11.1v lipo. After 3 hours of flawless gaming, the sector gear suddenly broke (the teeth got sheared off). I though VFC's SR16/15 line was lipo ready up to 12v? Or is it the cold? Or am I just unlucky (... oh, that would explain the rainy black cloud over my head, even during sunny days).

 

Anyways, replaced it with an ACM steel sector gear. Works again now. Hope it holds up.

Edited by Arion
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I though VFC's SR16/15 line was lipo ready up to 12v? Or is it the cold?

I don't think anyone, including VFC, has ever said the gun was lipo ready. Simply that most of us have switched to lipos. Even KWA's "lipo ready guns" aren't that different than most guns. It's a risk we all knowingly take. Sorry if we gave you the impression that these are designed to work under those conditions ... because they're not. They're designed to work with a 8.4V or 9.6V NiCd or NiMh battery with the internal components that came in the gun.

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