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I think a lot of people are surprised it's silver of all things.

 

Assuming you didn't know it was silver, I suppose you'd be mighty ###### off. I wouldn't want a bright silver flash hider regardless of its ability to reduce recoil, looks like someone went mad when cleaning it.

Edited by Kipper
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Assuming you didn't know it was silver, I suppose you'd be mighty ###### off. I wouldn't want a bright silver flash hider regardless of its ability to reduce recoil, looks like someone went mad when cleaning it.

 

Nope we thought it'd be black. We thought the prototypes were silver.

 

Frankly when it gets used it turns gray from carbon build up. I'm not annoyed at all. But I wish it'd been black.

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That KAC muzzle brake makes me weak in the knees. *Swoon*! ^_^:wub:

 

Titleist, after how many rounds are you supposed to clean it? And I'm assuming most people's brakes will be permanently (or at least semi-permanently) attached ... so would that mean you'd have to have the entire gun (or at least the upper) nose down with the brake in the cleaning fluid on a somewhat regular basis?

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I don't have the Triple Tap Brake here yet, shipped off from Florida today, also from this point in I'm going to just refer to it as the TTB.

 

Remember that the TTB is meant to interface with the NT4 suppressor, hence the notch built in (not sure if the airsoft ones have that). Because of that you have to properly index and rocksett the brake. As you saw in the picture of the full package, you get a shim kit. Once you tighten it down without the shims you can figure out which shim is required to index it to the right position. Like the AAC flashhiders you then use rockset. Which is a high temp thread locker, though it's not permanent, a good overnight soak in water will brake it down enough to muscle it off.

 

Basically you clean it when the vents become clogged up. If you've seen pics of Costa using his rifle at the Vicker's class you've seen the fireball it makes when clogged. But from what I've heard the best bet is to soak the muzzle in carbon remover, then you actually use the extra shims they give you to clean out the slots. This is all speculation, and I can scan the manual when it arrives for anyone interested.

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Slight update, turns out the full production Inconel muzzle brakes are silver, not black.

 

 

Ive always loved those dust covers :D my dad has 2 of them on his AR's!

 

 

I also would liked that knights flash hider to be atleast black. who wants bling on the end of there guns? :D

Edited by RUSHER2
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I do, i do! I'd like black, but silver will suffice. I bought mine for the muzzle jump reduction and recoil reduction, rather than looks.

 

 

Well its always work over looks right? Give us a nice small review when you get it! i wanna know how much recoil is changed with it :] might look into one.

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If I do it'll be in the real steel thread. That said, unless you ever plan to run a real NT4 suppressor, I'd probably say there are just as good of brakes on the market.

 

Anyways, I'll get pics when it comes in.

 

KAC wont warranty the suppressor or comp should something happen. They dont want the people buying these things to run them with suppressors since the brake itself was designed to be a sacrificial blast baffle if i understand what KevB was saying.

 

Even with the suppressor moderately clean these things put out huge fireballs, most comps do its kind of unavoidable.

 

As far as the effectiveness of this thing as a comp, yeah its pretty awesome. 437 dollars awesome? Probably not but its definitely up there in the top 3 comps and might very well be the best comp ever produced but i cant quantify that statement with facts since no one has really done any recoil comparison testing between comps.

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Remember that the TTB is meant to interface with the NT4 suppressor, hence the notch built in (not sure if the airsoft ones have that). Because of that you have to properly index and rocksett the brake. As you saw in the picture of the full package, you get a shim kit. Once you tighten it down without the shims you can figure out which shim is required to index it to the right position. Like the AAC flashhiders you then use rockset. Which is a high temp thread locker, though it's not permanent, a good overnight soak in water will brake it down enough to muscle it off.

 

I just got my "non-inconel TTB" in and no, there is no notch. This is the King Arms 2005 Knights Type M4 FH, but I think G&P and the other replicas to date are the same. Not real but at least it's in black, heh! I'll take the pic of my revised build soon, just needed to attach the new bits.

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I have several different airsoft TTBs from various different manufacturers, and the only one of those that I have that features the suppressor notch is the TTB that came with my VFC KAC PDW. If VFC made more of those TTBs, I'd buy several from them as they're a fair bit nicer in quality ... and are compatible with the VFC suppressors. ;)

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KAC wont warranty the suppressor or comp should something happen. They dont want the people buying these things to run them with suppressors since the brake itself was designed to be a sacrificial blast baffle if i understand what KevB was saying.

 

It absolutely WILL work, the reason they don't warranty it is because on full auto the heat could make it mushroom inside the NT4.

 

However with their internal testing they found it works just fine under normal use.

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i decided i wanted to make my URX secure without having the anchor it to the upper receiver with my scope mount so i searched online for the real KAC installation guide and to prevent it from unscrewing they actually used loctite, so i used it on the threads while screwing it on and it isn't going to come off unless there is some major force behind it =)

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Well, you could also tighten it with a huge amount of force, and then mount an Aimpoint T-1 so that it's between the reciever rail and the URX (sort of like a ris-fix)

 

that's what i had been doing before but i decided i wanted it to be able to stand by itself without the micro connecting it

 

Titleist: :( sorry lol

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