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Nice. Shame they didn't do it on the first run. Guess I'll have to put a lot of rounds through my TTBs. ^_^

 

Just use it and they all even out.

 

I just tried a KAC mount last weekend. I'm of mixed opinions, it's not that much lighter than the Larue, and if you're swapping between risers alot (which requires reconfirming zero) then you may be too much of a cheap *albatross* to not buy a second sight and mount. It's cool, but for the price it's a hard sell.

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I just tried a KAC mount last weekend. I'm of mixed opinions, it's not that much lighter than the Larue, and if you're swapping between risers alot (which requires reconfirming zero) then you may be too much of a cheap *albatross* to not buy a second sight and mount. It's cool, but for the price it's a hard sell.

Yeah, I'm certainly not running out to buy KAC Micro mounts for all the rest of my T-1's. I like it, but doubt I'd buy more.

 

Since were on the topic of T-1 mounts, anyone know where to find a replica LaRue one or KAC one? I already have the site, just need a high, QD mount.

 

Mahalo for the help ;)

There aren't any replicas of the KAC micro mounts yet. Looking at the various retailers that sell a lot of ACM stuff, none of them seem to list the replica LaRue high mount on it's own. You might want to email them and see if they have them available separately. Doesn't hurt to ask.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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i'm still waiting for a 200-600m KAC rear BUIS and a replica triple-tap. I'm desperately looking for a SR-15/16 lower. If someone is willing to trade his lower or sell it to me... => PM.

 

I want to put MOAR KAC goodness into this build, I just don't know what! Advice is needed (please take into account I do not have access to US RS KAC accessories... except if you're willing to sell me some :P).

Edited by Arion
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Looks great Arion,

 

I think you need a rear BIUS though, kinda pointless t have a front one without a rear IMO.

 

Good work nonetheless!

 

EDIT: whoops sorry just read the part about the BUIS

 

As far as anything else to put on your rifle, I think you should throw an ASAP on there; looks and works better than that type of sling adaptor.

Edited by 08kecarv
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Arion, I like the simplicity of it. Well done. One thing though, your LaRue high mount for the Micro is backwards. It works either way, but it was designed to have the throwlever pointed to the rear when closed so that it's less likely to snag on gear when you drop the primary to transition to your secondary. But it's all personal preference ... so if you like it, don't let me change your mind. ;)

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to Brooklyborn: it was my first time shooting RS, mate (Glock 9mil and SDI M4 5.56) and I wasn't exactly what I would call close to my target... All that in low vis conditions with irons only.

 

USCMCorps: thanks for the pointer! I am actually pretty anal about replicas not replicating real deal set-ups, so I appreciate your advice (I hate it when peeps go: "I duz not care. Am comfortable having scope and magnyfier on carry andle!"). If I put it that way it's because I heard you do not want to have throw levers and such on the right side of the receiver, as it can eventually fark up your brass-ejection, being right over the ejection port and all that... But your low-pro comment also makes perfect sense. Which operator rule should I go by?

 

Ok, let me turn it this way, how does Jesus Chris Costa have it? :P (humor inside, flame/troll shield activated).

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I heard you do not want to have throw levers and such on the right side of the receiver, as it can eventually fark up your brass-ejection, being right over the ejection port and all that... But your low-pro comment also makes perfect sense. Which operator rule should I go by?

 

Ok, let me turn it this way, how does Jesus Chris Costa have it? :P (humor inside, flame/troll shield activated).

 

It doesn't matter if it's right or left. The extractor on a rifle usually throws the casing backwards in a level manner, and the brass deflector usually imparts any upwards trajectory. The angle at which it spits from the gun is dependent on the speed and strength of the extractor.

 

Technical explanation aside (since there is the real steel thread if you want to know more) but the casing is past the throw levers by the time it's out of the ejection port. So run it on any side you want. On my real rifles I've never once seen brass hit the Larue levers that are over the ejection port. Chris runs his rifles the same way. Most keep the levers on the right side so as to keep the left side of the rifle as low profile when doing transitions or running.

Edited by Titleist
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No problems with them at all. Many can attest to their service.

 

Anyway, to keep this post relevant heres some pics of my KWA SR15 thats in the shop currently :(

 

Don't mind me toes :)

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Are these trades accurate to todays URX systems from KAC?

 

003-16.jpg

 

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No problems with them at all. Many can attest to their service.

 

Anyway, to keep this post relevant heres some pics of my KWA SR15 thats in the shop currently :(

 

Don't mind me toes :)

 

Are these trades accurate to todays URX systems from KAC?

 

Damn! That's one sick rifle...It's simple yet functional...except for the battery PEQ :P unless that's an actual PEQ

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Are these trades accurate to todays URX systems from KAC?

 

Unfortunately no they're not. From my real KAC SR-15 and SBR (both using the carbine length URX II):

 

Left Side: KNIGHT'S ARMAMENT CO. TITUSVILLE, FL WWW.KNIGHTARMCO.COM

Right Side URX II UPPER MID-LENGTH P/N-23375

 

I don't believe I'm allowed to post pics, so this will have to do. Hope that helps.

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Yeah I guess so. Cost is an issue too but i'll just have to save for it (I don't want to do it myself). How easy is it to change the buffer tube lipos?

 

Also, does anyone know where I can find a lower with KAC trades on it (without the marine EN-V trades)?

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