The G&P Lewis Machine & Tool Co. Monolithic Rail Platform CQB Carbine

[hwagan]

I think it looks awesome, but.....

 

 

NEW LOWER RECEIVER!

[bladerunner168]

I was extremely tempted to buy the MRP shorty whilst I was in the Ehobby shop a few weeks ago.

The local price was HKD 2,000.00 (£160) and I was just going to ditch the lower and keep the upper and interchange it with my MRP Combat Long.

 

Instead, I brought another WA 1911

 

All in all, welcome to the MRP club.

 

 

[Forti]

Well I finally got to play with mine and while the mags seem to feed fine, It's coming in at anywhere between 350 and 380 fps, with the occasionaly shot going even higher. Needless to say I'm a bit annoyed about this, more about the variation than the speed, I probably have a dodgy airseal. Since I spent £400+ on this thing I was hoping to avoid these sort of issues. Mind you I don't think I chronoed with the hopup all the way off as I have no idea which way is which

 

I'm going to CQB this weekend and I really don't want to hurt people, so I'll be swapping out the spring, which means I'll probably ruin the airseal even more by accident. Sigh. I'm having trouble taking it apart too, does the front pin require considerable force first time?

 

E: I'm also getting some pretty bad locking issues on semi, to the point where sometimes I can't even pull the trigger back. Annoyed at that too.

Edited May 11, 2011 by Forti

[hwagan]

Well I finally got to play with mine and while the mags seem to feed fine, It's coming in at anywhere between 350 and 380 fps, with the occasionaly shot going even higher. Needless to say I'm a bit annoyed about this, more about the variation than the speed, I probably have a dodgy airseal. Since I spent £400+ on this thing I was hoping to avoid these sort of issues. Mind you I don't think I chronoed with the hopup all the way off as I have no idea which way is which

 

I'm going to CQB this weekend and I really don't want to hurt people, so I'll be swapping out the spring, which means I'll probably ruin the airseal even more by accident. Sigh. I'm having trouble taking it apart too, does the front pin require considerable force first time?

 

E: I'm also getting some pretty bad locking issues on semi, to the point where sometimes I can't even pull the trigger back. Annoyed at that too.

 

 

Could be a number of fairly minor things with the FPS inconsitency - Firstly, clean the barrel and hop, that could well be it. There's also a chance the gearbox needs to bed in for a few cycles for all the grease to settle properly, so give it a couple of hundred rounds once you've cleaned the barrel.

 

As for the hop, towards you as your shouldering the gun is off, and away is on.

 

The front pin does take a good solid whack to loosen it up the first time around - Mine has been stripped a fair few times now and it's a lot easier.

 

As for the locking issues on Semi, check the motor height adjustment, as this is normally the cause - Make sure the baseplate is properly screwed all the way on, and once you've correctly set the motor height, a bit of loctite or threadlock on the adjustment screw should prevent that happening again. Saying that, i'm not sure why that'd cause the trigger to stick...

 

Did you purchase it from a UK retailer? If so, i'd strongly recommend making use of the warranty and describing all the issues in detail to the company before you take it to bits.

Edited May 11, 2011 by hwagan

[Forti]

Hong Kong, unfortunately.

 

I cleaned the barrel and wrapped it in tape, and it's still varying just as much. I gave it an auto burst and will leave the spring compressed for a few days, that might drop it enough to let me use it inside, then I have no idea.

 

Letting the spring bed in is my only hope at this point. It would probably be great in woodland if I could get the fps consistent.

 

Just not really what I expected from a £400 rifle. Maybe if there was a quick spring swap feature I'd be happier.

[Jamanyar]

Just ordered mine, MRP LMT Magpul Long (boring black )

 

Hopefully will put up some pic when i get it....(3-5 daaaaaaaaaaaaaaays )

 

Thanks hwagan for the excellent review, and info regarding all things G&P.

 

J.

[Jamanyar]

Finally got mine the other day

 

I have to say having owned over five other G&P's, this has to be the best by far. The quality if top notch. There is NO wobble, I mean not one thing on this AEG creaks, wobbles or gives. I absolutely love it!

 

Now I do have to say that when I first got it, I took the internals working for granted and simply made it look the way I wanted (tactical lights, grips and stock additions etc). When I went to test it out, the dreaded bb jam occurred. Now here I am with an expensive toy shipped from Hong Kong not working. A little girlish scream was heard, although in my giddy faint headed and sinking gut feeling I find it hard to recount everything properly.!

 

Thankfully Hwagan (much respek) came to the rescue, with a quick phone call to help me separate the upper (as it was not budging). With a closer inspection of the bucking I realised that it'd been incorrectly installed causing the bb's to jam.

 

Anyway, once sorted I can say that it's my favorite AEG I've every owned. I simply have to hold it up every now and again (much to my wife's amusement/bemusement) and enjoy the feel of it, the weight and balance (I might need clinical help here!)

 

Very much like my new toy, really looking forward to using on Sunday

 

Some pics for pics sakes!

 

 

G&P 8mm gearbox stock internals (pre-order AWS Raptor drop in mosfet so will install that when I get it),

UBR Stock,

MBUS flip up sights,

MOE grip,

Surefire LED flashlight + grip,

Surefire Millennium tactical light,

Trijicon TA01 ACOG,

WAS Raotor Multicam vest

 

Thanks

 

J.

Edited May 30, 2011 by Jamanyar

[Forti]

Hey guys

 

I remember you all posting about putting H-Nubs in these things for an extra 10 yards or so of range, but they were out of stock everywhere I looked. Now a couple of places have them, and I was wondering if there's any real difference between these, these, and these. Other than price, they appear functionally identical, is there anything I should be aware of?

[hwagan]

Hey guys

 

I remember you all posting about putting H-Nubs in these things for an extra 10 yards or so of range, but they were out of stock everywhere I looked. Now a couple of places have them, and I was wondering if there's any real difference between these, these, and these. Other than price, they appear functionally identical, is there anything I should be aware of?

 

 

It's not *quite* as simple as drop in an H-nub for an extra 10 yards, but it's definitely a worthwhile hop mod. It's more an increase in effective range, as it'll tighten your groupings up at longer distances, thus making the last few yards of range a bit more useful before the BB drops. The Element and Big-out nubs are the ones i use with great results, and they're essentially exactly the same. The falcon steel one is something i haven't seen before; The concept seems like a good idea in theory though.

 

I'd recommend the big out ones (just because they're in stock at a UK store). Try the white one first, and one thing i can't stress enough is that the best results from a hop system come from trial and error - Pick up a couple of different buckings while you're at it (Guarder clear, madbull blue, prommy purple, TM stock are all good) and test those with the nubs. That way you'll find the best possible combination for your individual gun. I could say what hop setup i have in mine, but that same hop setup doesn't work in another internally identical G&P AR15. There's no logic in it, but every gun likes different rubbers for some odd reason.

 

On another note, you can also shim the hop arm to prevent side to side movement and wrap the barrel in a single spiral of leccy tape - This should also help with consistency and accuracy.

[Forti]

You are a saint, hwagan. I've done the leccy tape mod but sadly I don't have nearly enough room out the back of my house to test different setups very easily. Might give it a shot with a TM stock rubber and Big out nub, see how that goes.

[hwagan]

You are a saint, hwagan. I've done the leccy tape mod but sadly I don't have nearly enough room out the back of my house to test different setups very easily. Might give it a shot with a TM stock rubber and Big out nub, see how that goes.

 

 

The hop arm mod is stupid simple and helps a tad as well - Get a flashhider shim (or similar really really thin material) and slide a bit of it either side of the hop arm, stops it moving as much so it helps keep the H nub dead straight. TM stock rubber and a big-out nub is a good place to start, that set-up is currently spitting lasers out of my XM.

[harborne blue]

Well, I did a bit of tweaking and took it out last sunday and it was running like a dream, wonderful gun, I can agree with all the praise in this thread.

 

However, something's come up and I have to move, and it can't come with me. I might be away from airsoft for a while, so I have to shift it somehow :/

 

If anyone in the UK is looking for one of these with a whole bunch of magpul stuff, a few mags and pouches, and a battery and charger, feel free to PM me. It saddens me to let it go just as I got it working like a dream, but what can you do?

 

 

Couldn't see such a lovely gun sitting unwanted in a cupboard - PM'd re: possible sale.

[Krut]

In case anyone cares, the reason Lewis Machine And Tool's real AR is good is because of the piston design. This means that new gas is being put back into the parts instead of old recycled gas, meaning the gun can stay cooler on long periods of firing time. This is similar to HK's 416 design. That's the reason HK and LMT are better than your average Colt M4, because they use new gas and the parts stay cool.

[Boom3r]

In case anyone cares, the reason Lewis Machine And Tool's real AR is good is because of the piston design. This means that new gas is being put back into the parts instead of old recycled gas, meaning the gun can stay cooler on long periods of firing time. This is similar to HK's 416 design. That's the reason HK and LMT are better than your average Colt M4, because they use new gas and the parts stay cool.

 

This may be the case but the G&P and Prime (ptw) versions are of the standard non piston gas block type. Airsoft Surgeon used to do a close approximation to the LMT gas block but no more I'm afraid.

[Krut]

Maybe I'm wrong or they screwed up the replication? Maybe since almost all other ar-15 replicas use the standard gas block type, G&P did the same thing that they've always done with m4s?

[hwagan]

I was wrong in the original review, since seeing the R/S the piston system is clearly different. Was there a time the MRP was ever produced using a DI system? All i can think is either G&P being lasy or copying an early version of the MRP perhaps?

[Utty]

Looking at the Lewis Machine & Tool web store, they offer both gas and piston operated versions of the MRP.

[Krut]

Thats a good point point Utty. They probably just replicated the gas system because that's what most people are used to

[WTF?Shane]

Lessen the production cost by using the dummy direct gas impingement system found in many other replicas rather than manufacturing a dummy gas piston operating system.

[Krut]

That's true, it's cheaper to reproduce something you've been producing than produce something new.

[Boom3r]

This is the Airsoft Surgeon one which is as close an approximation as I have seen. Sadly it no longer appears to be in production. Edited July 5, 2011 by Boom3r

[harborne blue]

Got mine yesterday.... Externally it has the 'wow' factor - totally solid and even my MRP version feels incredibly compact.

 

One question though - seems to be quite a lot of mag wobble. Previous owner wrapped tape around the top of the EMAGs but I'd prefer to do something more permanent for the field (and not have to have yet another set of mags for just one gun). Any ideas?

[mimesis]

EMags are slimmer than the other versions of PMag--they fit in a wide range of magwells. Simplest might be to try a regular PMag--a Pmag in Sentry has minimal wobble.

[hwagan]

Another thing to do is glue a strip of foam (only about 1-2mm thick) along the back edge of the magwell. That'll prevent the Emags rocking back and away from the hop unit, which is what causes misfeeding.

[Forti]

I've found with mine ( I managed to hang on to it during the move!) the cheaper the magazine used, the better it worked. The Magpul PTS ones, none of them fed, at all. Even with copious amounts of tape and foam shoving them about.

Borrowed a friends cheapy MAG VN mids, you can't even tell you're holding them they're so light and plasticky, they work flawlessly. Weird. Would be tempted to gamble on this and get a box of green label Emags, as stanags are horrible looking things, but I'd rather go with what I know works.