The G&P Lewis Machine & Tool Co. Monolithic Rail Platform CQB Carbine

[MikeG]

Real-Steel vs Airsoft AEGEngineering

 

I've taken apart half a dozen different semi-auto pistols to perform upgrades and repairs and seen a few rifles and carbines be taken apart to do the same. Comparing Airsoft parts to real-steel equivalents makes me realize the amount of amazingly difficult engineering that is required to make a reliable machine.

 

I am quite concerned about Airsoft AEG gear box design and I'm a little worried that I'm about to experience a whole world of disappointment and frustration due to the weak design on the gearbox that I'll be repairing for a long time.

 

I'm surprised anyone who's seen the inside of a gearbox before is having this sort of reaction. Most of us techs know that gearboxes are a sort of rube-goldberg design and that parts will break from time to time, more frequently if the gearbox hasn't been tuned. As I like to say: in airsoft, it's not if it breaks but when it breaks.

 

With that out of the way: I'm a huge fan of G&P's guns but I have had issues with them in the past. I blew a few teeth off of a G&P bevel gear and stripped a G&P piston in an XM177E1. I ran a 7.4V 20C 1200mAH G&P LiPo in a Sentry and within 10k rounds had worn so much material off of the trigger switch knife that I needed to bend the contacts together to make things functional again. In the same Sentry with the same battery I was getting an issue where the switch would arc-weld into place and allow the gun to fire for as long as it liked. I fixed all that by installing a MOSFET, in the end. In both of these guns (and a VFC M16A3) I've had absolutely terrible luck with the stock hop-up buckings. In the XM177, I couldn't turn the hop up 'on' enough to get a flat trajectory. In the Sentry, it would double feed or jam. I went to Guarder 70 degree buckings, Element black H nubs, Madbull Ultimate Hop-Ups, and Vanaras 6.03 tightbores in each and was extremely pleased with how well the guns fed and how accurate they were.

 

In other people's G&Ps...

I've replaced 2 shattered piston heads (these piston heads aren't the most resilient material and the heavy piston head nut which G&P uses doesn't help the issue).

I've replaced a G&P gear set and set of 7mm bearings in a G&P M249 after one of the gear axles gave way.

I've had to replace a trigger spring after it simply snapped (the owner was a big fan of semi-auto).

 

For my G&Ps, I ended up running MOSFETs, the barrel & hop combo listed above, Guarder SP100 springs, and lighter piston heads and never had any further issues with them. They both did 20 rps on 7.4V LiPos/9.6V NiMH and 30RPS on 11.1V LiPos. As with upgrading any guns, it's never about having the most expensive parts, it's figuring out what parts will work best for the gun and installing them properly.

[hwagan]

I'm surprised anyone who's seen the inside of a gearbox before is having this sort of reaction. Most of us techs know that gearboxes are a sort of rube-goldberg design and that parts will break from time to time, more frequently if the gearbox hasn't been tuned. As I like to say: in airsoft, it's not if it breaks but when it breaks.

 

As with upgrading any guns, it's never about having the most expensive parts, it's figuring out what parts will work best for the gun and installing them properly.

 

 

Basically the above sums it up. In my experience, i've never had any of the issues mentioned in my G&P AR15's. That said, every company has lemons and clearly G&P is one of them, as has unfortunately been the case with JakFrost's MRP.

 

Based on the amount of replicas i've owned over the last 8 years, i've pretty much concluded that buying a G&P M4 of some description gives me an externally fantastic gun with a myriad of options available and the best chance of having reliable internals that deliver the performance i require for a good price. Fiddling with the hop unit and rubber combinations is standard practice when i get a new one, but other than that i'll leave the gearbox alone unless the FPS requires changing.

 

I've seen plenty of instances of someone who's spent £100's on an AEG gearbox only for it to chew itself up in the first few shots. I've seen ACM guns last extraordinarily well despite the price, but in the world of Airsoft, it's always going to be a case of luck, tuning and patience. I'm lucky in that my 4 current AR's have never suffered any gearbox issues; Saying that however, i run a fairly light load on them - 7.4 Lipo's and 340FPS.

 

My personal MRP has been spot on since day one - I recently disassembled the box to replace the wiring/switch assembly (I damaged the wires when fitting a new buffer tube) and discovered no significant mechanical wear after around 100,000 rounds, and surprisingly little evidence of arcing or burning of the trigger contacts.

[a4andy]

What midcap brands are you guys using with your MRP?

I have some years old MAG Plastic Midcaps and they fit way to loose in the magwell, they would need to be pushed forward for them to feed. Same with my S.Arms midcaps

 

Anyone try those plastic KA Midcaps? They look fairly cheap for 10 mags

[Racer X8000]

What midcap brands are you guys using with your MRP?

I have some years old MAG Plastic Midcaps and they fit way to loose in the magwell, they would need to be pushed forward for them to feed. Same with my S.Arms midcaps

 

Anyone try those plastic KA Midcaps? They look fairly cheap for 10 mags

 

I use Star 140 mids and the stock G&P mid ( and an unknown brand 60 rounder ).

 

JakFrost: G&P's are Known to have bad gears and a bad piston ( and sometimes piston head). If you didn't know that when you bought it, now you've learned from first hand experience. Every gun has problems thats why we tune them.

[hwagan]

What midcap brands are you guys using with your MRP?

I have some years old MAG Plastic Midcaps and they fit way to loose in the magwell, they would need to be pushed forward for them to feed. Same with my S.Arms midcaps

 

Anyone try those plastic KA Midcaps? They look fairly cheap for 10 mags

 

 

G&P Mids. I use 8 of them; They take a bit of breaking in (for the first few uses they'll only feed around 100 out of 130ish rounds), but they're overall very good. They're tough, reliable, steel and cheap at about $90 for 10.

[JakFrost]

Gear Box Repaired - All Gears Replaced

 

G&P - Sector Gear - 2-Teeth Removed for Type B Short Piston

 

G&P - Sector Gears - Old Black Stem, New Silver Stem and 2-Teeth Removed

 

G&P - Airsoft AEG Gears - Old Black Stems, New Silver Stems

 

G&P Gears

 

I decided to buy the G&P replacement gears for $28 USD, the same as the original and these ones had nicer and stronger looking silver metal stems instead of the blackened ones in the original ones that were in the gear box. I couldn't justify Prometheus gears at $100 USD when a while new G&P 8mm gearbox was $112 USD.

 

I had to remove 2-teeth from the sector gear with a Dremel since the gearbox has a short Type B piston for my G&P MRP 11.5-inch (290mm) gun. I accidentally flattened off three of the gear teeth behind the spot where I cutting it but only slightly by 1mm so there is still plenty of area for tooth engagement and those teeth are covered by the other part of the gear so weakening shouldn't be much of an issue. If it is then I'll re-order the Type B piston with the correct sector gear if it comes into stock at RedWolfAirsoft.com

 

Soldering New Wire

 

I broke one of the little contacts on the wire that goes to the motor so I removed the whole wire and re-soldered a new one from a spare wiring kit that I bought using my Ayoue 937+ digital temperature controlled soldering iron. I used a plastic vice to hold everything and had both hands to work so the soldering was quick and a piece of cake. I set the soldering iron to 480-degrees Fahrenheit and it heated up within a minute then maintained the temperature so it was a quick job. Much better than with the crappy stick irons you get in cheap tool kits.

 

Lubrication

 

I used three types of lubricants in the gearbox from the G&P lubrication kit that I bought a long time ago. White grease for the gear flat areas and teeth. Bearing grease for the shims and stems that go into the 8mm ball bearings. Cylinder grease for the cylinder o-rings. Also, I used a little of the gear grease for the spring guide where the metal was roughed up.

 

I also dropped some of the orange bearing grease onto the piston and the piston guides since I noticed that the previous lubricant that looked like a dried up gray cake-like substance with little silver shreddings from the spring guide was very dry. It seems that the higher viscosity bearing grease just dries up too quickly on the piston rails and guides.

 

Future Lubrication of Piston Rail Guides

 

I will be sure to add a drop of the orange bearing oil/grease onto the piston guides that are exposed when the piston is all the way inside the cylinder after every few games to keep the piston rails and guides well lubricated since the dryness and cakeiness of the previous lubricant seemed like an issue to be concerned about. I'll also be sure to lube up the spring guide where the metal gets roughed up by the spring.

 

Using Old Spring Guide

 

I ordered a replacement Action EG ball-bearing spring guide since looking at the pictures it had the correct pin like endings, but when I received it it had flattened square endings. I did not want to grind the endings down to fit the round G&P gearbox spring guide holes since it is likely that this would have weakened the flat endings. The G&P gearbox came with a regular spring guide and the G&P ball-bearing spring guide just wasn't in stock when I placed the order.

 

I'll have to wait until it is available again before I replace it with a factory original or decide to grind down the one that I have to make it fit the next time that I take the gearbox apart.

 

Difficulty in Reassembly - Pain In The Neck

 

I was able to reassemble all the parts of the gear box after more than 2-weeks of the parts sitting in little clear plastic boxes on my table without referring to any videos or guides since most of the mechanical parts, springs, gears, and wires made logical sense as where they should go. Even the anti-reversal latch was logically placed.

 

The biggest problem was trying to keep all the parts aligned and actually in their right positions while trying to close the gear box. I tried for an hour myself before I got frustrated like heck and called my wife to come and help me hold some pieces together, including using the screwdriver to retain the spring guide and spring.

 

I had heck of a time trying to keep the anti-reversal latch with its tiny little annoying and bent spring upright under the bevel gear with tweezers, while also holding the tough as heck spring on the trigger from pushing the trigger out of the gearbox, while my wife was holding the screwdriver with the main spring down and trying to put the cover back on slowly, minding all the gear positions, shims, springs, wires, and cylinder. It took us 5-tries close the thing because of the anti-reversal latch flopping around because of the spring to actually.

 

After the first time I reassembled the lower only to pull the trigger and have the piston become jammed up after less than an inch. I had to disassemble the whole lower and gearbox, while being puzzled because everything looked fine, and reassemble it again with another 5-tries because of the anti-reversal latch spring.

 

The second time the piston moved fine and sounded correct in semi and full-auto. I just hope that it'll work tomorrow and this repair will last.

 

If I have to re-open the gearbox I'll change out the anti-reversal latch spring with a different one and hope it works fine.

[a4andy]

You better hope those G&P Gears will last you, one of my old G&P drop-in gearbox gear failed on me the other day (sector axle, exactly like yours). I replaced it and my MRP gears with JG gears.

 

Anyways, practice makes perfect when reassembling, I must have dissassembled and reassembled my MRP gearbox about 15-20 times trying to changing springs, installing new parts, install mosfet, and just to check how all the new parts are holding up inside the gearbox (looking for wear and tear on new piston specifically).

I found the hardest part in installing the gearbox is actually the darn trigger kept popping out of place cause the trigger spring was really stiff. I never had a problem with other v2 gearboxes, but for this one there was no way for me to keep one hand keeping the trigger in place, one hand holding the spring in with a screwdriver, and one hand closing the shell (unless I had 3 hands, ). The AR Latch always stayed put for me, it will be out of place slightly, but I always just wiggle the top gb shell a bit and it falls into place.

[league 4]

Thread is a little long so sorry if it's been said already, but the G&P gear axle breakage is not an isolated event, it's a very common problem. I've had it happen multiple times, even at ~300FPS and a low ROF. Despite that, G&P is still my favorite brand of AEG's.. Their internals seem to be getting worse than before, though. The spring guides no longer have ball bearings, and the pistons are being short stroked for some reason... They also painted the cylinder head black for some reason.

[hwagan]

Difficulty in Reassembly - Pain In The Neck

 

 

It really, really is. However, as has been said, the ARL should sit roughly in the right place. I find the best way to re-assemble the box is to hold the trigger with my right thumb, cylinder set with my middle finger and spring guide with my left ring finger - Once the shell is on it's just a case of lining up the ARL axle and the trigger axle. Tricky, but you'll get the hang of it after a few goes.

 

As for the axle breakage issues, the problem seems to be occuring more often in the US, but it's definitely something to look out for; I've got 4 G&P 8mm boxes that have ran for 10's of thousands of rounds on stock parts without a hitch. It seems like there may be a few bad batches (Early release sentries and later release MRP's seem to have these problems reported a fair bit more than usual). Going on the sentry and MRP review threads, the problem seems to be more commonly reported from the US, and i've yet to hear reports of axle issues from the UK or indeed HK. Mine have all been purchased from UK retailers where they're built to the retailer's spec in far smaller numbers - I'm inclined to speculate that G&P's coming from places like Ehobby, where they're ordered by the store in batches of 50-100 rather than 5-10, may suffer a little on the QC side due to the larger amounts of guns being assembled in one go.

[JakFrost]

Played A Game and Gearbox Works Well

 

I played the game after the repair to the gearbox and my gun functioned perfectly. I ran the gun in full-auto mode and some semi-auto mode and it ate through a ~1,500 BBs or more without a problem. Even at the very end I dumped 400 BBs out of one high-cap and half of another into barrels where Naveronski was hiding behind and it worked just fine.

 

When I chronoed the gun before the game it was showing only 296-317 FPS instead of 356 FPS that it used to do previously, but I had the hop-up at maximum adjustment making my BBs shoot straight up in the air. I still have to re-chrono the gun to see what the real velocity is now and if the dropped FPS was just a fluke or an actual loss. I'll have to inspect the air seals in the system to look for any unusual things.

 

Additionally, my gun is still shooting and curving the shots to the left at distance even without wind so I'm going to change out the bucking and nub for the clear Guarder 50-degree one that I bought which was recommended by a senior guy at Arnie's. I'd like to fix the curving issue.

[hwagan]

When I chronoed the gun before the game it was showing only 296-317 FPS instead of 356 FPS that it used to do previously, but I had the hop-up at maximum adjustment making my BBs shoot straight up in the air. I still have to re-chrono the gun to see what the real velocity is now and if the dropped FPS was just a fluke or an actual loss. I'll have to inspect the air seals in the system to look for any unusual things.

 

Additionally, my gun is still shooting and curving the shots to the left at distance even without wind so I'm going to change out the bucking and nub for the clear Guarder 50-degree one that I bought which was recommended by a senior guy at Arnie's. I'd like to fix the curving issue.

 

 

With the hop in full effect, a drop of 30-40FPS sounds about right - Chrono with the hopup off, hopefully you'll see the usual FPS.

 

As for the curving issues, did you go with an H shaped nub in the end? They work wonders in all of mine, but testing a few different combinations of rubber is always the best way to go.

[JakFrost]

FPS Back To Normal After Hop-Up Adjustment

 

It was the hop-up set all the way that caused the FPS loss and after I reset it back and tested it at the house the gun was back to factory standard 357-358 FPS and 21.5 RPS with 0.25g BBs and G&P 7.4V LiPo 1,200 mAh 20C battery.

 

Guarder Clear 50-Degree Bucking and Nub

 

Guarder Improved Hop Up Bucking for AEG (50° Hardness)

 

Not recommended. Installed it in a G&P MRP and when hop-up unit was unwound to the lowest setting this hop-up bucking and nub would over-hop and over-spin the 0.25g BBs where they shot straight up in the air after 10-feet. I even went as far as removing the little nub and using the bucking alone, but that didn't work either. I went back to the factory original G&P bucking and nub which worked great again. (I had to miss the cliff side invasion on my last game and walk back to my car to do the hop-up disassembly right there on site standing outside my car's trunk swapping tiny little hop-up parts out there in the windy outside.)

 

I was taking it out and it ripped little holes in it right away also, so I threw it out. Other reviewers on AirsoftGi.com had the same results with this thing. I don't know why it was recommended on Arnie's G&P MRP thread so much when it fails to work from the get-go.

 

Gun & Gearbox Working Well

 

I went to Operation Starburst III last weekend and the gun worked like a champ through 6,000 BBs without a hick-up. I pre-lubricated the piston channels and spring guide before the game and had ample lubrication in the gears.

 

I will open it up again to inspect how much lubrication was used up and apply a bit more if necessary, including onto the gears and stems. I would like to find a way to apply new lubrication to the gear stems (aka axles) and the gear teeth so I might have to use a syringe to get to the gears from above in the piston channel and also below somehow. With the 8mm ball bearings I can drip lubrication directly onto them and their porous design will allow the lubrication to get inside the gear box but I'm concerned that over time the ball bearings will get gummied up due to over lubrication of them and then seize up and fail. I wish that there are access holes in the side of the gearbox above the gears to apply lubrication to them through the holes.

 

Curving To The Left Still An Issue

 

The shots curving to the left is still an small issue after I put the original G&P factory bucking and nub back. I have another G&P replacement set that I might try out before the next game to see if that is the reason for the problem.

 

I don't see anything in the inner barrel when I bore sight it with a flashlight to indicate that something is wrong or bent. I even cleaned it with a .22 LR cleaning kit with dry patches which came out gray to remove any dust. Since the outer barrel was never removed and the whole upper of the gun is a monolithic piece I doubt that the gun was bent in any way with so much tough aluminum around the brass inner barrel.

 

I disassembled the hop-up a few times now because of the failed Guarder bucking and I didn't see anything inside the unit to indicate that it would cause it to put a bad spin on the BBs.

 

I'll know more after I replace the bucking and nub again with the other G&P factory set.

Edited March 31, 2011 by JakFrost

[hwagan]

Guarder Improved Hop Up Bucking for AEG (50° Hardness)

 

Not recommended. Installed it in a G&P MRP and when hop-up unit was unwound to the lowest setting this hop-up bucking and nub would over-hop and over-spin the 0.25g BBs where they shot straight up in the air after 10-feet. I even went as far as removing the little nub and using the bucking alone, but that didn't work either. I went back to the factory original G&P bucking and nub which worked great again. (I had to miss the cliff side invasion on my last game and walk back to my car to do the hop-up disassembly right there on site standing outside my car's trunk swapping tiny little hop-up parts out there in the windy outside.)

 

I was taking it out and it ripped little holes in it right away also, so I threw it out. Other reviewers on AirsoftGi.com had the same results with this thing. I don't know why it was recommended on Arnie's G&P MRP thread so much when it fails to work from the get-go.

 

Curving To The Left Still An Issue

 

The shots curving to the left is still an small issue after I put the original G&P factory bucking and nub back. I have another G&P replacement set that I might try out before the next game to see if that is the reason for the problem.

 

I don't see anything in the inner barrel when I bore sight it with a flashlight to indicate that something is wrong or bent. I even cleaned it with a .22 LR cleaning kit with dry patches which came out gray to remove any dust. Since the outer barrel was never removed and the whole upper of the gun is a monolithic piece I doubt that the gun was bent in any way with so much tough aluminum around the brass inner barrel.

 

I disassembled the hop-up a few times now because of the failed Guarder bucking and I didn't see anything inside the unit to indicate that it would cause it to put a bad spin on the BBs.

 

I'll know more after I replace the bucking and nub again with the other G&P factory set.

 

Just with regards to the above, there's a few things i've learned in my years of tuning G&P hop units - You can't just go on a recommendation for a hop setup, down to the fact every gun is a tiny little bit different. It's a good place to start, but all 4 of my rifles, all with similar FPS levels and barrel setups, have totally different hop combinations. Two use the standard G&P bucking, one uses a guarder clear, and one uses a madbull blue. All 4 of them shoot lasers to over 50 yards at around 340FPS and outrange everything i usually come up against. I really can't recommend enough taking the plunge for the $20-30 or so it'll cost and buy a couple of different hop rubbers to test which works best for your particular rifle. Big-out or Element H nubs are also excellent - They're a lot more solid than the standard type, and they give a great deal more consistency than a stock nub.

 

As for the curving to the left issue, there's a few things you can do to alleviate this. Firstly, wrap the length of the inner barrel in a single spiral of electrical tape; This serves to soak up vibration and give the inner barrel a better fit within the outer.

 

Secondly, shimming the hopup arm - The plastic arm that pushes down onto the nub is closed in on both sides by the metal body of the hop unit. I find the flashhider shims G&P provide with their muzzle devices are perfect for this when cut into quarters - Simply slide a 1/4 of the thin metal shim either side of the hop arm. This will greatly reduce any side to side movement of the arm and improve consistency.

 

Lastly, once you've found a good combination of rubbers, lock the hop after you've set it. Get it adjusted to spit your choice of ammo the greatest distance, then give the screw holding the adjustment wheel a half turn to tighten it and prevent it unwinding.

 

 

When it comes to lubrication, i've got some thick ICS spray grease that comes with a long nozzle - I blast that into the gears through the spring window every few games to keep it running smoothly. I've never actually needed to oil the bearings yet. I'm not sure if i should be oiling them or not, but my MRP is 100,000 or so rounds in and it hasn't yet caused an issue.

[mimesis]

I agree. If you've pretty much eliminated buckings and nubs by swopping different ones in and out, then the finger of blame points to the hop-up arm. If shimming does not work, then the ultimate solution is to upgrade to the Prometheus Neo Strike hop-up unit. I'm convinced that one of the reasons this works so well is that the metal chamber is manufactured to tight tolerances (particularly the "gulley" that the arm fits into), as is the plastic arm that fits in it. If the arm is absolutely symmetrical, and if it fits snugly (no wobble, but no binding either) between the two little "walls" on the top of the chamber, then you're good to go. Prometheus soft purple bucking and the stock nub that comes with it also work very well in the P. chamber.

 

BTW, what color are the plastic parts that came stock on the G&P hop-up unit? Black or blue?

[hwagan]

BTW, what color are the plastic parts that came stock on the G&P hop-up unit? Black or blue?

 

Mine have all been black in the rifles themselves, however an aftermarket set i bought had blue plastics. Oddly, the set with the blue parts never seemed to work correctly so i ditched it. Possibly an older design or older version?

[mimesis]

Mine have all been black in the rifles themselves, however an aftermarket set i bought had blue plastics. Oddly, the set with the blue parts never seemed to work correctly so i ditched it. Possibly an older design or older version?

 

 

Exactly! The blue parts denote an older model. The blue plastic parts definitely aren't molded as well as the black ones, and there is some question as to whether the metal hop-up too is somewhat better in the iteration that comes with black.

[hwagan]

Exactly! The blue parts denote an older model. The blue plastic parts definitely aren't molded as well as the black ones, and there is some question as to whether the metal hop-up too is somewhat better in the iteration that comes with black.

 

 

It definitely seems to be the case. I went through the entire process as i always do with the blue unit, and still couldn't get the performance i wanted out of it. It did the job, but there were too many fliers and a lot of left hooking no matter what bucking i went with. After closer inspection, the hop arm itself was very slightly twisted, causing an uneven pressure on the nub. I've never had an issue with the black parts hop units.

[bladerunner168]

Re: The Prommy hop unit, mimesis, do you have experience with that?

 

I was in HK recently at the Ehobby shop, the sales guy actually recommended it without reservation but because I had mixed success with aftermarket units (i.e Madbull), I decided against shelling out $50 each for a few.

 

Whilst the G&P hop is probably one of the best factory units out there, I'm on a constant quest to get more range/accuracy from AEG's.

Even if performance gains are not in line with costs, 5 more feet is 5 more feet, IMHO.

[mimesis]

Re: The Prommy hop unit, mimesis, do you have experience with that?

 

I was in HK recently at the Ehobby shop, the sales guy actually recommended it without reservation but because I had mixed success with aftermarket units (i.e Madbull), I decided against shelling out $50 each for a few.

 

Whilst the G&P hop is probably one of the best factory units out there, I'm on a constant quest to get more range/accuracy from AEG's.

Even if performance gains are not in line with costs, 5 more feet is 5 more feet, IMHO.

 

Yes I do. I have two units in my M4s/M16s that I want to get the very best accuracy out of. I've done comparison testing with King Arms, G&P, Mad Bull, G&G, Guarder, etc., and the Prometheus comes out tops in my experience. I've found it seems to do best with its own matching purple soft bucking, and the stock nub that comes with the purple. I also think if you're going to do it, it's worth shelling out for the Neo Strike version that comes with more of the necessary red plastic parts. Annoyingly, neither of the versions has them all, so you have to do a little bit of cannibalization. But as I say, I don't think it's so much the design as the execution of the Prommy that makes it good--manufacturing and tolerances.

[bladerunner168]

Yes I do. I have two units in my M4s/M16s that I want to get the very best accuracy out of. I've done comparison testing with King Arms, G&P, Mad Bull, G&G, Guarder, etc., and the Prometheus comes out tops in my experience. I've found it seems to do best with its own matching purple soft bucking, and the stock nub that comes with the purple. I also think if you're going to do it, it's worth shelling out for the Neo Strike version that comes with more of the necessary red plastic parts. Annoyingly, neither of the versions has them all, so you have to do a little bit of cannibalization. But as I say, I don't think it's so much the design as the execution of the Prommy that makes it good--manufacturing and tolerances.

 

Thanks, I will investigate further when less skint

[Forti]

Well, I got my new toy. Behold, the only person in the world with green furniture!

 

(Rubbish Blackberry camera ahoy)

 

 

 

An LMT decked out in nice foliage green polymer I decided on it as I can't stand several thing about classic M4s, namely the delta ring, handgaurd, front sight post, everything that these... don't have.

 

I have to say I'm impressed with the build quality, it's solid as a rock and I think I could beat down a few doors with it before it got any scratches. Taking the stock off in particular is a herculean effort.

 

 

As for performance...well, I have no idea. I don't have any lipos hanging around and component shop seems to be completely out of buffer tube sized lipo packs. I have an official G&P lipo on the way from hong kong though, so I'll wait on that.

 

Not really much to say. It's a nice weight, solid, pointable, and with a c-more on top, looks boss. My only issue is that two of my Pmags wobble a bit in the magwell. The other two... don't. It's very odd but again I can't check if they feed or not til I get a battery.

 

Still, it goes nicely with tigerstripe.

 

[hwagan]

Looks nice dude - I did have an M4 with a TRX rail decked out on green - I'm all for it, what with England not being a desert and all

 

Pmags wise, are they the M-version? I found mine a slightly loose fit in my MRP when i used them, but they all fed fine except one. Fixed that with a small strip of electrical tape on the back of the magwell to tighten it up.

[Forti]

Yeah they're all the M-version. Three PMAGS and one EMAG, some wobble more or less than others. I'll see how they feed and keep the tape thing in mind.

 

The only other mod I was thinking of was dropping in the H-nub, but for two things:

- I'm not entirely keen on opening up a brand new gun, and to be honest I'm not really sure how.

- And I can't seem to find H-nubs in stock, well, anywhere.

 

Any help on those would be great. I've been a P90 user for a long time so taking down a gun in my mind is a case of one button and a screw

[hwagan]

The only other mod I was thinking of was dropping in the H-nub, but for two things:

- I'm not entirely keen on opening up a brand new gun, and to be honest I'm not really sure how.

- And I can't seem to find H-nubs in stock, well, anywhere.

 

Any help on those would be great. I've been a P90 user for a long time so taking down a gun in my mind is a case of one button and a screw

 

 

Well with the MRP it's even less - Front pin gets tapped out (it's self retaining so not all the way) and you slide the upper assembly off (after removing the mag, remembering to lift the ejection port cover over the pin). Once you slide it off the barrel and hop just slides straight out. As for H nubs in stock, Ehobby possibly? Don't think there's any in the UK as i've been looking to pick up a couple for spares and my upcoming Car-15.

 

While you've got the hopup out the gun, give the barrel a single, non-overlapping spiral of 'leccy tape and tighten up the screw on the adjustment wheel, just to tighten up the fit in the outer barrel and stop the hop un-setting itself.

[Philbucknall]

they are indeed lovely pieces; i got my shorty version in DE a coupla months ago and solid hardly describes it! With the rail and upper being one piece I reckon you could use it to jack a bloody car off the ground! Added a 51T flashider to mine along with a VFG instead of the AFG it came with, an enhanced 0.7" buttpad and will also put a MIAD grip on when I can be bothered. otherwise I think it looks the canines dangly bits as is!

 

Whaddya think?

Edited April 26, 2011 by Philbucknall