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Evike are shipping my order soon but said they are not aware of any reinforced parts.....

 

I talked to Evikes manager today about them when he showed us, and he said he just got them this week. That means, they should already have the reinforced part. Also, the ones that Evike have do not have the orange tip.

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Morning Guys,

 

Is it possible to fit a G17 slide set, I only use semi and it would get around some of this issues with the KCS selector.

 

If not no worries

 

TC

According to someone on my local forum (who's also a tech at the Airsoft Extreme store in San Diego), the FPG requires a few relatively major modifications in order for it to fire properly with a G17 slide. Here's the list of what needs to be done:

 

http://www.858airsof...?p=50971#p50971

Edited by garret218
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Well I tried the trick where I have stretched the selector switch spring and I have no more problems with it now.

Although now it's a bit hard to switch modes because the spring pushes the ball bearing into place REALLY hard now , but thats ok ^^

 

I don't know for sure who on this forum told me the trick ( it's in a G18 tech post ) but thanks!

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Well I tried the trick where I have stretched the selector switch spring and I have no more problems with it now.

Although now it's a bit hard to switch modes because the spring pushes the ball bearing into place REALLY hard now , but thats ok ^^

 

I don't know for sure who on this forum told me the trick ( it's in a G18 tech post ) but thanks!

Definitely sounds like a sensible solution, thanks for that.

 

Had my friend, a local GBB tech, look at it and he just tightened something down and now it works like a charm, I'll have to ask him for some more details next time I am at work.

If you could find out and post it up I'm sure a fair few people out there would find it pretty useful, cheers dude.

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The tiny hex screw is .9mm and is not included in most sets of hex wrenches.

 

Tightening that screw helped , but I tried drilling out the detent more and it seems to have fixed the problem.

Unfortunately I don't recommend this method unless you are skilled at gunsmithing.

 

I'll update, if the repair doesn't hold.

 

US owners, Acetone will remove the ugly orange and not effect the polymer.

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It's come to my attention that a lot of you guys are having problems with your Glocks especially in using full-auto. If I may, I'd like to share a simple mod I do with Glocks (with selector)when installing them in my HERA kits to make them reliable particularly when in full-auto. The mod requires the fabrication of a small part out of 1mm thick metal or plastic and the removal of the selector.

 

If you would notice the function of the selector, it engages two parts in the slide: the arm which trips the full-auto sear (left side) and the part that trips the disconnector (right side). The problem is that the force needed to push the auto sear will at times cause the selector to go up and into the middle (out of battery) position requiring you to manually re-engage the selector. I've pointed out before that either stretching the spring under the selector or replacing it with a stiffer one can work, it's not necessarily guaranteed depending on the condition of the Glock.

 

Back to the part you have to fabricate. I don't have a camera right now so sketches will do. It's the "L" shaped piece (dark gray) that sits underneath the arm replacing what used to be the post on the selector.

Edit: forgot to mention that the illustration below is reversed as if looking at the slide from the bottom

g18_selector.jpg

You can only install the part after you've put the slide on and locked it back. You can't put it in first as it blocks the way for the slide to be put on. The slide has to be installed on the gun (in this case the FPG), rack the slide and hold it back, then from the bottom lift the arm and slip the part underneath it. That said, the slide cannot be removed from the frame without removing the fabricated part first.

 

To put the gun in semi-auto, you have to open up your slide and look at the right side of the BBU where the disconnector is. The disconnector is held up by springs keeping the up position (full auto) by default. You have to push the disconnector down and insert a thick enough rigid material (plastic etc) to keep it down in the semi-auto position. Make sure the sides of the added material are flush with the side of the BBU to clear reassembly into the slide.

Edited by renegadecow
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That said, it includes a long magazine and full length extended outer barrel and inner barrel. If you were to build the same thing from the kit, donor G18 and misc parts, it'd be about the same ... minus the headache of trying to get it all to go together right the first time.

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