40mm grenade IED

[renegadecow]

So I've been mulling over making an IED out of a 40mm grenade after a rather engaging Hurt Locker scenario with my small LARPA group (larp airsoft, just made that up ). I know I could just buy an ACM Claymore but they lack 'oomph' in my opinion. So while designing it, I come across methods of detonation and the cheapest option is one of these:

It's a 12V actuator for automotive purposes.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12V-Universal-2-Wire-Power-Car-Door-Lock-Actuator-360c_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c53e0d46fQQitemZ190385804399QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

While the size and power meet my needs, I'm unsure as to how these work. I understand that they run on an electric motor (a solenoid version also exists, but more expensive) but do I need to hook it up to a car battery to work or just about any 12V? I'm thinking small like those Eveready 12V alkalines because an actual car battery could be dangerous. At worst, and for size restrictions, could an AEG 11.1V lipo battery do? The 11.1's register closer to 12V on actual voltage anyway. Even if they will run weaker it's ok so long as they run because the trigger leverage could be tweaked that as little as 4lbs of force will be needed. I just don't want to commit and buy it yet without any comments about it.

 

On the activating device, I want it to be modular so the bomb guy will have to adapt and not just be used with the same old method of disarming. For this I'm thinking of a dead mans switch, a transistor switch that causes to detonate if you cut the wrong wire, a manual wired switch so you could just trace the wire and kill off the setter, or a wireless remote switch (some cheap deals on ebay under $15!), and maybe even a timer.

[nieb15]

I remember seeing some claymores made with the solenoid type actuators running off a 9volt battery. I'll try to find the thread discussing them.

[Triggerhappychappy]

Judging by the size of the motor housing and the wires/ little tamiya style bullet connectors, that actuator would be fine running off an airsoft type battery- lipo would be smaller ( a 3s lipo reads 12.6v fully charged ) but then you've got the hassle of low voltage cutoffs and such. A small-ish 12v ( or 2x 6v ) torch battery would be good ( the square type with springy terminals on the top )..

[Tom Andrews]

I've used these actuators in the back of a LAW firing a CO2 and a green gas moscart. They are too weak for CO2 on a 9.6 1400 mah nimh, but fired the green gas without problem. A 11volt lipo should make the difference.

[renegadecow]

I've used these actuators in the back of a LAW firing a CO2 and a green gas moscart. They are too weak for CO2 on a 9.6 1400 mah nimh, but fired the green gas without problem. A 11volt lipo should make the difference.

Thanks! I'll just be using green gas nades so it's fine. Will order the actuator asap. Now that you've mentioned a LAW, fancy I turn this project upside down and make an M202A1 "Flash" instead . Of course I'd need someone to make me the special switch that activates the tubes individually on successive trigger pulls.

[Kaworu]

Of course I'd need someone to make me the special switch that activates the tubes individually on successive trigger pulls.

 

You can do this using a 4017.

 

Here's the datasheet:

 

http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheets/320/499984_DS.pdf

 

See ya! []'s

[renegadecow]

What I need, all in one chip? That's... amazing, THANKS! I've found some cheap ones on ebay, 10pcs for $3.50 shipped, but I'm still studying the diagram as to how to wire it. Well now I'm just waiting for the actuator to arrive and will have to measure it up then. My concern is that the motor kinda sticks out so I might have to configure it in-line when loaded into the M202 60mm tube. This would now mean a greater force is needed to activate the nade having no help from a lever trigger. Problems for later, now I wait for the actuator.

 

Now that I think about it, ordering 10 chips and only use one is a waste. Wondering about the awesomeness of firing off TWO flashes at the same time on both shoulders.

[BigEd]

I remember seeing some claymores made with the solenoid type actuators running off a 9volt battery. I'll try to find the thread discussing them.

 

I made them back in 2005. Never had any problem activating any grenades even with CO2 on a hot day. It may depend on the manufacturer of the actuator.

Two are detonated by wire, one is activated by car remote. You can dump powder, dried peas/beans/popcorn down the barrel for a better effect.

 

///ed///

[renegadecow]

Just got the actuator! Rigged it immediately to an alkaline 12V battery in my volt meter and it's quite weak. Hooked it up to a partially charged 8.4V 1100mAh and it was a lot stronger, but still too weak to activate the grenade in direct line. It was substantially strong though that maybe a 1st or 2nd class lever might do the trick. Still have to test it on a 9.6V battery of greater capacity (or maybe try to fully charge the first batt first) because the one 9.6V I have has gone wonky from disuse.

Size issue is another thing. Making some sort of an IED is perfect because the actuator itself is only slightly longer and wider (because of motor) than the shell. The problem would be trying to make a LAW or RPG out of it as that would mean having the actuator in direct line with the shell and I still haven't tried a battery that can do the job. Maybe the actuator I got is too weak to even do it. Still have lots to test.

[BigEd]

Mine are orange, and were manufactured for GM cars. (Got them awhile ago.)

I push the actuator arm until it is closed. Then insert the grenade, the actuator arm sits about an 1/8th of inch away from the grenade plunger.

 

///ed///

[renegadecow]

That might just spell the difference. Mines black, has chinese markings on it. I understand that some actuators are stronger than others, and that there are those that are much weaker as advertised. Any experience with the solenoid ones?

[BigEd]

I don't believe so. Do you have a picture of one you have in mind?

 

///ed///

[renegadecow]

Here's a solenoid one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-POWER-TRUNK-RELEASE-SOLENOID-DOOR-POP-ACTUATOR-522T-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem33500cf097QQitemZ220386357399QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

From what I understand, they pull rather than push.

 

Got hold of a 11.1V lipo to test out. Turns out the batt had no juice!!! Curses.

[Pkekyo-Nor]

For those of us not familliar with these actuator thingmajigs and their size...

 

Any chance of fitting two of them in a LAW?

Or is there such a thing as a "double-actuator"?

[Mr. Blue]

instead of using an actuator to fire off the grenade, have you thought about a physical hammer and pin like the Mosquito Molds Traps?

 

I've got one laying around if you'd like picture of the firing mech.

[3vi1-D4n]

I have seen an IED, which is a mouse trap connected to a 40mm airsoft shell. When someone pulls the trip wire it trips the mouse trap, which then fires off the 40mm. Extremely funny.

 

Then the guy added a servo to this set up and bundled it with an RC transmitter. Instant RF command detonanted directional fragmentation device.

[danielsilva]

I have seen an IED, which is a mouse trap connected to a 40mm airsoft shell. When someone pulls the trip wire it trips the mouse trap, which then fires off the 40mm. Extremely funny.

 

Then the guy added a servo to this set up and bundled it with an RC transmitter. Instant RF command detonanted directional fragmentation device.

 

A team mate of mine actually did an IED with a fire-cracker, 9v battery, one bulb from those x-mas lights and a contact switch.

.

[Triggerhappychappy]

^ Thats quite cool, though a little feeble- needs more *bang*... *

 

*ofcourse that would be a bit dangerous, so not really..

[renegadecow]

For those of us not familliar with these actuator thingmajigs and their size...

 

Any chance of fitting two of them in a LAW?

Or is there such a thing as a "double-actuator"?

Mines 6" long, 2 1/2" tall, 1 1/2" wide

Tom Andrews says he's used them for LAWs

not sure what you mean by double actuator

 

instead of using an actuator to fire off the grenade, have you thought about a physical hammer and pin like the Mosquito Molds Traps?

 

I've got one laying around if you'd like picture of the firing mech.

That's a pretty good idea, but personally I'm trying to stay off it out of safety. The inertial hammer setup is very likely to be able to detonate a real 40mm shell is what cops would probably say if I'm ever caught with one.

 

As for pyro, almost no gamesite here allows it in-game except for smoke bombs and the occasional fire cracker. If it's just to be a noise maker then fine, but to propel bbs? No way, too dangerous.

[Pkekyo-Nor]

By "double actuator", I mean one that would be able to fire two 40mm grenades, one of either side of it.

[renegadecow]

I don't see why not. Heck I was thinking of an M202A1 which is essentially a 4 barreled LAW. 4 tubes, 4 nades, 4 actuators, 1 battery and circuitry to activate them one at a time. But I'm still having trouble in getting the actuator to work for me right now.

[Pkekyo-Nor]

My plan is to somehow put one 40mm shell in either end of the LAW.

One with BBs to fire, and one in the rear with just gas in it to simulate backblast when firing.

 

Need to figure out how to trigger it all though...

[bankz5152]

Just had a quick thought which may or may not be useful.

 

You know those Airwick Motion sensor air freshners? They release a puff of spray when an IR beam is broken. You could work that into this as a invisible trip wire.