epzilonblue Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 1st time around this thread. Is there any news for Curved Rubber pad (Try to replace with A&K but FAIL ) Here is my ACR with ISMV (Replica) & Dytac flash Hider upgraded only 110 guarder , 9.6v Intellect 1400 - good trigger response - good range but a bit poor accuracy(no upgrade plan for now save my money for AK Conversion+Magazine) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anonimouse9 Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 I've just read all 58 pages - it's been slow at work today. Thanks to everyone who posted their reviews, comments and advice. There have been several people intending to fit a mosfet to their Masada but has anyone actually done it yet? Just curious as I'm a mosfet newb and am considering taking the plunge with a Masada and pimping it to the max... Stock, the rifle seems to have decent trigger response. I'm popping in my MOSFET primarily for a 3-round burst option (but active breaking and enhanced trigger response will be a bonus). I'm also installing one as this will be my completely 'pimped' out rifle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ycare Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 There have been several people intending to fit a mosfet to their Masada but has anyone actually done it yet? Just curious as I'm a mosfet newb and am considering taking the plunge with a Masada and pimping it to the max... Anakchan did put a fancy mosfet in there, was perfectly sized and worked well when I tried it. What do you want to know though? I'm sure Anakchan will pop by soon and explain fully. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SixtyNiner Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Thanks Ycare. Just curious to find out if there were any issues with installation. Mainly because I've never installed a mosfet before and want to be fully prepared, but also because of the microswitch trigger which is unusual in and AEG. My plan is to add a mosfet, lipo battery (11.1v would be preferred as that is what I already use with my PTW) and tightbore barrel. Everything has been covered in detail in this thread aside from the mosfet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AnakChan Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 The microtrigger is basically like any trigger. The Scorpion HRC-X445 managed to fit in there, but the cable routing is somewhat tight for a computer FET with so many wires. Note that although I've got the Scorpion in there, I've basically got it to emulate the Pulse instead. The reason being is that I've decided not to bother with the hop sensor, cocking handle sensor, & bolt release sensor. The Scorpion sensors for those components are designed more for the M4/SCAR. There's no issue in putting in a FET in there, the only thing would be :- 1) channel space routing for the wiring is tight 2) got to route the cables properly to ensure it doesn't interfere with the mag catch. Other mods I've done is to put in a Planet AE1000 short motor, of which I also soldered the wires as opposed to using clips (just like the original ACR motor). I've also used RiotSC's 14:1 gears, and Firefly Kurage Hop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jaeger0416 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Sorry if this has been asked already, but any ETA on the shorter barrel sets and the RIS? I would think that the shorter barrels would be out relatively soon. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anonimouse9 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 (edited) There's no issue in putting in a FET in there, the only thing would be :- 1) channel space routing for the wiring is tight 2) got to route the cables properly to ensure it doesn't interfere with the mag catch. Yeah, I was wondering about ease of the wire channel. Looks tight in that gun. I plan on putting in my Extreme-fire Cheetah, sometime next week. Just need to get some appropriate wires. I was actually thinking of trying CAT6 network cable, as it's a single cable and I can break out pairs as needed (for battery, motor, switch). If I use a voltmeter to check how well a cable works, what are my target voltages/watts/etc... (I guess I can test through the stock wire as comparison). Edited October 7, 2010 by anonimouse9 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Megalomaniac Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 I have to stop reading this thread, makes me get more upset about mine not working. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kithooton Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 (edited) http://www.ginganinga.com/MMAR/ Sorry if this has been asked already, but any ETA on the shorter barrel sets and the RIS? I would think that the shorter barrels would be out relatively soon. I hope buy the end of Oct in Asia. £70. Love the new Stock! Waiting on the RIS and 10'ich Barrel Edited October 8, 2010 by elrey posts merged Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AnakChan Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Yeah, I was wondering about ease of the wire channel. Looks tight in that gun. I plan on putting in my Extreme-fire Cheetah, sometime next week. Just need to get some appropriate wires. I was actually thinking of trying CAT6 network cable, as it's a single cable and I can break out pairs as needed (for battery, motor, switch). If I use a voltmeter to check how well a cable works, what are my target voltages/watts/etc... (I guess I can test through the stock wire as comparison). Anonimouse9,you may wanna hop onto the tech or the AirsoftMechanics.com about your idea. My concern about CAT 6 cables is that it may not be suitable for the kind of currents we're using for airsoft. Especially for Lipos and it's capacity rating, etc. kind of motor & spring you're using, etc. you may need some reasonably good wires. Use of 16 AWG wires with Extreme-Fire's or AWS's is quite common. You should mail Terry to ask him (as I see his website sells #16/#20/#24's). BTW, you should also ask him when the SW-Lion is coming out. It may have better controls (such as switching off AB-FETs. Also Terry is working on the SW-Cheetah-N2. http://www.ginganinga.com/MMAR/ I hope buy the end of Oct in Asia. £70. Love the new Stock! Waiting on the RIS and 10'ich Barrel Kithooton, I believe you have been advised before in the past. Please don't post consecutively (in your case 1-8 mins apart). You can edit your posts!! Members have enough problems already going through 59 pages! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elrey Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Thread cleaned up. When possible, use the edit button to add content to a post rather than making a new one; it keeps things tidy. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
anonimouse9 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Anonimouse9,you may wanna hop onto the tech or the AirsoftMechanics.com about your idea. My concern about CAT 6 cables is that it may not be suitable for the kind of currents we're using for airsoft. Especially for Lipos and it's capacity rating, etc. kind of motor & spring you're using, etc. you may need some reasonably good wires. Use of 16 AWG wires with Extreme-Fire's or AWS's is quite common. You should mail Terry to ask him (as I see his website sells #16/#20/#24's). BTW, you should also ask him when the SW-Lion is coming out. It may have better controls (such as switching off AB-FETs. Also Terry is working on the SW-Cheetah-N2. Yeah, I ran the numbers on the CAT6 cable and found out that it would pretty much melt or catch on fire. It's the amps. POE for wireless routers take higher voltages but low amperage. I'll just have to buy some #16 wire and some fancy work to channel it around the receiver cleanly. I already have the Cheetah, which should be fine for me running 9.6v NiMH. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AnakChan Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 (edited) Tacitus introduced me to this of which is mean to be quite a thin 16 AWG. I guess thin due to thin-but-durable insulator, not the core. However as I'm in Japan, I've not tried ordering wires from UK. I think if you're sticking to 9.6V NiMH (1400mAh? 2000mAh?) you may be able to use 3x18 AWG in parallel or 4x20 AWG which should fit in the ACR wire channel in the lower receiver? I've yet to try it myself. Edited October 8, 2010 by AnakChan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vercingetorix Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 (edited) I'm not too sure those wires will be all that flexible, usually if the insulation is thinner AND tougher, it also means its stiffer, which can be a major PITA. Personally, I love the spools of this stuff I bought around 2-3 years back. 25feet has lasted me forever (I only use it for my own guns.close friends guns, and having rewired at least 7-8 guns at least in that time period, I still have a majority of the wire left). If I am not mistaken, its about as good as 16 AWG wiring gets, and not to ridiculously expensive for 25ft spools of red and black. Edited October 9, 2010 by Vercingetorix Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tacitus Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 (edited) Yeah, the wire Anakchan linked is stiffer than other wire, but it can still be bent into any shape just like other wire. The difference is that it keeps its shape well, so making twisted pairs (helpful for recuding voltage spikes) is much easier and the twisted wire doesn't need any exta heathshrink to stay in shape. I prefer it because it's 2/3rds the thickness of normal wire, the insulation is very tough and won't get sliced easily like silicon insulation will (when accidentally pinching a wire for example), and it's also highly heat resistant so soldering won't melt the insulation near the solder joint. Just looking at the measurements again, the 12AWG version of this wire is 2.97mm, about the same thickness as standard silicon insulated 16AWG wire Edited October 9, 2010 by Tacitus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
xPLAN303Ex Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 Very good info on the Masada on this thread. I tested mine today extensively and found out that my hopup is basically doing nothing. All the way out is just about the same as all the way in, with the bb's (Madbull 0.2 bios) curving a bit down. Couldn't get them to go straight let alone curve up. Took the barrel off and took at look at my hopup, bucking seems ok. Bit of oval shape but to my knowledge that is normal, plenty of lube. The nub is where I think the issue is, the two pics attached show all the way in and all the way out, it seems to barely move. Opinions? Has anyone had this problem? Fixes? Just ask for new hopup? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tacitus Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 plenty of lube. Might be the problem if it's inside the bucking. You obviously want friction between the bucking and BB. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
snakeeyes1802 Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 (edited) i happened to have the same problem and i found out what had happened. i removed the barrel after setting the hop-up which messed up the nub and crushed it. i ended up getting an dental pick and fixed the problem the best i could with it. it should really be said somewhere not to remove the barrel once the hop-is set. http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=188813&st=0&p=2370122&hl=a&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=2370122 Edited October 9, 2010 by snakeeyes1802 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 I had a chance to skirmish the ACR again yesterday. It was raining heavily, but it didn't seem to have a negative impact at all. The ACR was accurate and produced a very sufficient ROF. I didn't experience any of the non-firing issues on semi that I did the first time I used it. I really like the length of the weapon stock, and am appreciating the light weight of it. Will use it again tomorrow at a public game at a new field that has opened in Tokyo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Doedkoett Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Very good info on the Masada on this thread. I tested mine today extensively and found out that my hopup is basically doing nothing. All the way out is just about the same as all the way in, with the bb's (Madbull 0.2 bios) curving a bit down. Couldn't get them to go straight let alone curve up. Took the barrel off and took at look at my hopup, bucking seems ok. Bit of oval shape but to my knowledge that is normal, plenty of lube. The nub is where I think the issue is, the two pics attached show all the way in and all the way out, it seems to barely move. Opinions? Has anyone had this problem? Fixes? Just ask for new hopup? I also had this problem. I believe it is a user error.. I haven´t seen anything about it in thye manual, but then again, I haven´t read it that thoroughly, but I think you should "turn off" the Hop Up before removing or inserting the barrel. Mine fixed itself after I had tried the correct procedure of turning it all the way off, then removing and inserting the barrel and then turning it all the way on again. Then my bullets started to arch uppwards nicely on full hop up, thus enabling me to set it to go perfectly straight. Hope this helped Quote Link to post Share on other sites
WTF?Shane Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Put it through its 4th game last night with a slight hiccup earlier in the day. Problem was likely caused by the upgraded spring and pos battery. Tinkered with the gearbox a few times and it fired good the rest of the evening. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 I've seen the photos, so I understand that the bucking on the inner barrel stays with the removeable outer barrel, while the rest of the hop-up unit stays with the gun. I've also read that the nub is a figure-of-eight shape, and that the hop-up resembles the Ares Tavor (which doesn't help much, as I've never seen one). I also see how there is that U-shaped cut-out in the end of the outer barrel, revealing the part of the bucking with the internal mound for the nub to press down on. But how is the nub retained in place when you remove the bucking/barrel assembly? What stops it from dropping out? Does it drop down some more, thus causing these problems when the re-install the bucking/barrel assembly? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlackHawk125 Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Update: My Masada now has 10K plus rounds through it and is running strong. It's stock except for a different bucking and been using a 9.6v and now that the 30 days is almost up deans will soon be installed. Couldn't be happier if i tried. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Arez Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Anybody heard the date of the official UK release date? I know its " Mid-October" and with a FG Masada on order, and a huge game next Saturday, I was hoping someone could delight me with a release date. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 used my masada in a game today...spent 5x 120 round magazines gun shot well... no hiccups on semi and full auto gun has had its parts replaced 2 days after I got it from overseas...didnt have issues before replacing parts...havent had issues after replacing parts... gun shoots like a champ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.