TK4235 Posted September 25, 2011 Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 Also a firefly hop rubber or failing that the Guarder clear 50% rubber. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hmg9194 Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 Buy a PDI W Hold bucking.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
F1refly Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 Â So you recommend this intead of a slightly bigger spring? Â Yup, you said you didn't want the added strain on the motor. I personally used the wii tech nozzle, didn't bother with the chamber. TK4235's suggestion seems better since the nozzle is the most important part, there's a massive compression loss in that area, specially when the grease they put on there thins. At that time, I was only able to find the wii tech nozzle/chamber combo. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TK4235 Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 Buy a PDI W Hold bucking.. Â This is supposed to be a superb hop rubber too. But trying to find one is like getting tequila out of a stone! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SHWEL Posted September 26, 2011 Report Share Posted September 26, 2011 @shwel,I noticed a paintjob on your gun,fancy sharing it with us? I'm thinking of painting mine too.thanks in advance. Â Â Search "Shwell11 Painting Tutorial" un Youtube.. I did a step by step tutorial on how to do it. Â Â As for the Wii Tech unit.. I had complete FPS drop/failure when using the entire unit. When I used the Nozzle alone, the FPS was exactly the same as I was getting with my Stock Nozzle. But I am one of the few with exceptional performance.. My current FPS on an M120 Spring is 407-410 FPS.. This is with Angle of Engagement done, so it would prob be in the 420 range with full movement of the piston. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
raven9 Posted September 27, 2011 Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Search "Shwell11 Painting Tutorial" un Youtube.. I did a step by step tutorial on how to do it. Â Â thanks,now that you mention it Ive seen it but couldn't find again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgy Posted September 27, 2011 Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 I know owners of the masada have been worried about the figure 8 nub. The Toothpick did not help me but I found another use for it. I made a replacement for us. Works great!! Feel free to check it out, I made this post and thought about starting another here with the same info. Â http://www.airsoftohio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37564 Â Let me know if it will help, and I'll post it up on here also 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kossack Posted September 27, 2011 Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 Great job, Morgy! Â Luckily, in my case only the outer quarter of the figure 8 nub (half of the hollow half) was torn apart, so i was able to reverse it and still get a good firm grip on the hop up arm, leaving the solid half to do the pressure on the rubber. Â But if (when) it eventually comes out, i'll surely give your method a try! Â Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jeye Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 (edited) New Poster here, I skimmed my upgrade idea's from here so it's only fair to post the results back. I own the Masada AKM, I had never messed around with internals before. A friend and I had a trial run with a busted up AK that we managed to get back up and running so the next step was to jump head first into the Masada. On reflection it's a really nice gun to work with, especially for a newb like me, much easier than the AK to work with and that was part of my decision to buy it. On the whole I like that it's accurate down the iron sites, the semi see through mags are alot more usefull than I first imagined and the main spring swap mechinism is by far the biggest selling point for me. I tend to only do 24 hour games, it's been through a couple of these and a day event + around 1500 test rounds in total and there is no sign or wear inside the gearbox. Happy days! However out of the box it did suffer from feeding issues and the hop up knackered up, they really should put a warning somewhere about taking the barrel out, it's not as if you can buy a replacement and technicly it's damage that can be fixed as per the warrenty so they must have had returns around this issue.  Parts I have in it so far are:  7.4v li-po 2200 mAh Modify Polycarb Piston - same as the stock one but blue, I couldn't get the head off from the stock one though so just as well I bought this Modify Polycarb Piston Head - Ported and gave a solid airseal SHS High Torque Motor (Short)- Would happily have had the Element but aparantly they have shut down their factory for the most part of the year. Really pleased with this motor - I went for a high torque for trigger response and I'm not a fan of anything above 20 rps, it's really accurate down the iron sites so it rarely comes off single Guarder Hop Bucking 50o - Stock bucking was awefull and even caused feeding issues Air Nozzle (metal + o ring) - AirsoftPro.cz do a specific nozzle for the masada, didn't want to pay for the hop up unit that came with the wii tech nozzle which led me to find this one - thanks Nikon  Mods  Cylinder Head - I bought a cylinder head that looked like it might fit and it would have done the job but it has a ridge on one side so wont fit into the mech box. I modded the stock one with 1 wrap of ptfe tape. Air seal was top notch so will leave this alone for now until I find a metal one that does fit.  Hop-Up - At some point I must have removed the barrel with hop up on. I took it out, the plastic in the shape of a figure 8 was crushed badly but not torn so I got it back to a good shape and popped it back. Got my eye on this though.  Spade Clips - When I changed the motor I fitted spade clips to the wires instead of just soldering them back on. Can't really see why this wasn't already done tbh.   Future Plans  Shimming / Bushings / Bearings - looked ok to me from the eyes of a newbie, it was stacked in a way some thought must have gone into it and everything is meshing well and not to tight. I was planning to swap the bushings / bearing out for all bearings but not so sure now. Again it seems sensible to me that they have a bearing on one and bushings on the other 2. I'll put this off for a while I reckon while I reshim my M4-CQB (next project so I can practice)  Mosfet - With it being a microswitch it apears only a basic one will do that reduces the power accross the trigger specificly with no breaking,. Maybe I need to swap the trigger out eventually?! Decided not to move to an 11v li-po so this isn't as much of an issue any more.  Sorbo Pad - I'll probably end up buying one of these today if I can find somewhere that ships to the uk, i have some metal washers and a file at hand for adjusting the angle of attack as needed  ....micro switch replacement - urgh, this seems to make some people angry, really angry! I like the microswitch, it's a great feel and response. It seems I'm not going to like it when it's melted and broken. It looks fine now and I'm not putting in a 11v li-po without a mosfet so . . it's here to stay unless I read up on something of interest.   FPS Results  Used a Firdragon crono, results are from around 30 shots each spring. There were only a couple of low readings (about 50FPS lower than expected) and one higher than expected (30FPS) the whole time. Cheap crono but it seems a good design as the sensors are a good distance apart. Results were really good for the higher end springs but no change really for the 2 lower ones, maybe the cylinder head doesn't port as well at lower speeds? The 2 lower end springs are very much shorter, I could probably push fit them into the mech box with some celary.  Stock Spring (non linear) - 303FPS + / - 5 fps M100 (or so I thought it's 7 years old mind) linear- 307FPS + / - 9 fps  Ultimate M110 - 379 FPS + / - 4 fps 18.8 rps - this is 9fps higher than the high end of the spring rating! I did this one again at the end to verify with the same results, very stable this spring Ultimate M120 - 410 FPS + / - 7 fps 18 rps  only difference I can see between the 2 Ultimate springs is about 0.5cm in length.  Question!  Anyone any idea how to get the stock piston head off the stock piston? I really am new to this, I can see the screw under the head but can't seem to get the plastic out to get to it. Doesn't seem to unscrew either.   edit - typo's Edited September 29, 2011 by Jeye Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GhostWolf Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 Jeye your post might be better off in the Technical area m8.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TK4235 Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 I know owners of the masada have been worried about the figure 8 nub. The Toothpick did not help me but I found another use for it. I made a replacement for us. Works great!! Feel free to check it out, I made this post and thought about starting another here with the same info. http://www.airsoftohio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37564  Let me know if it will help, and I'll post it up on here also  Morgy, superb mate... Now that's one way of creating a figure of 8 nub.... How does your gun shoot now? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
morgy Posted September 29, 2011 Report Share Posted September 29, 2011 The first one I made was a little much, too much hop up on the low end. Made another like the post instructions and it was great and fit right in. I also had the thought of actually using a hop up nub inside the large heat shrink along with a tooth pick in the arm instead of two tooth picks.if that makes sense. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TK4235 Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 (edited) Well what I did was to put an extra bit of hop rubber onto the bucking. There is a post on this thread somewhere.. This way the nub has to work less. However I'm going to replace the stock bucking with a Guarder clear 50% as soon as the replacement air nozzle comes in from airsoftpro.cz.. Edited September 30, 2011 by TK4235 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TK4235 Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 (edited) Ok folks, i'm having difficulty getting those damn pins out. I used a centre punch but it just seemed to make things worse...the punch seemed to stretch the pins into the upper receiver So what shall I use....? Edited October 4, 2011 by TK4235 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AnakChan Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Which pins? If it's the handguard pin, be careful - I've cracked my handguard already before. You'll need to check the pin retainer clip alignment. It rotates semi-freely and can sometimes be misaligned that makes the pin hard to remove (and when you hammer that pin, that's when you break the handguard). 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TK4235 Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 No it's not the handguard pins. It's the ones which keep the hop unit in the upper receiver. There are two of them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AnakChan Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Get the right sized punch & hammer slowly but firmly. It'll come out. U probably can find pix in this thread I put up a few months back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TK4235 Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Have to buy a nail punch I've been told. Screwfix do a set for £6.99. Phew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kossack Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Have to buy a nail punch I've been told. Screwfix do a set for £6.99. Phew  I just used a hex key, 1mm i think, and bang on it with a rubber mallet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TK4235 Posted October 10, 2011 Report Share Posted October 10, 2011 Got the pins out and put a toothpick into the nub. Am a happy choppy again.. The replacement air nozzle arrived today so I'll put that in at the weekend and see how much of a performance gain I get Quote Link to post Share on other sites
luvs2shoot Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Question: Â So i read that the Magpul Masada has a short type motor. Would a TM M14 EG1000 motor be a drop in fit (I believe it's also a short type)? Â Also, do you guys think this would increase the ROF/ make it sound less "screechy"? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lacanuck24 Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 great advice in this thread! I have my masada shooting like a champ now.  toothpick mod in the nub worked fantastic for me, along with wrapping some electrical tape around the hop-up wheel. I'm at about 30% dialed in and have plenty of hop adjustment.  lets see, upgrades so far: Madbull blue bucking Prometheus 6.03 barrels (cqb and carbine) vfc gear set marui eg1000 short motor toothpick mod hop-up wheel tape mod  I burned a piston early, couldn't use a VFC piston as a replacement, if I remember right theres a Systema piston in there now.  Luvs2shoot: a short eg1000 will fit fine, you'll see a little increase in the ROF. My personal experience was that it didn't help the ROF because the stock gears were the problem. My stock motor was overheating quickly with a 9.6. An eg1000 with a 9.6 will give you a nice ROF. Gear upgrade will do the trick. Personally, I made the choice to use 7.4 lipos and with a VFC gear set I get a satisfying ROF. with a 9.6 or 11.1 it gets a little too fast for me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Joe 90 Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Ive ended up getting my hands on one of the Akm's very cheap. Really want a standard stanag lower to be released though, any news on if it is or not? as a spare part i mean. Also im doing burst fire on semi auto, need to work on the trigger switch i think, its fine when i pull hard and fast but a slow pull can let off multiple shots.... anhyhoo here she is in a not so common setup Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hans17 Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Absolutely love this thread for all the helpful information this series of AEG. Â Â I own the FG version and it's in the standard ACR configuration externally and unmodified internally. Â I plan to purchase the RIS, folding stock, 51T flash hider, and 11.5" barrel assembly (Wish the prices weren't so damn high!) And installing a matrix Prometheus type steel 6.03 TBB and madbull bucking and nub. Other than that I don't really see a need for any other upgrades with this gun. Â Absolutely love it.....................BUT! I am have a major issue. I've searched to see if anyone else has had this problem and I've not seen any information on it. Â When I pull the trigger on semi the gun cycles perfectly and crisp yet when I switch to full auto I am lucky to get a 4-5 round burst before it stops firing and will only fire semi auto even with the selector switched to full auto. Â If anyone has any insight on this issue I would very much appreciate some advice! Â In the meantime I will keep tinkering to see if I figure it out. Â thank you Hans Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRAGONER Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Hello,  i ve got a Problem.I have my ACR since July now.Last weekend we did an MIL Sim Operation.After the first day i start to shoot with my rifle.And after 20 metres the bbs curved to the left before dropping.When i was at home i cleaned everything and checked the hop up Bucking.But found no damages.Then today i started a shooting test and the Hop Up didnt work.After 10-15 metres the bbs dropped down.I use 0,25bbs and a 11,1 V Lipo.I dont know what to do.Its still the first bucking,the stock bucking.The weeks before everything worked fine.Please help me.  Greets  DRAGONER Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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