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MagPul PTS MASADA ACR


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You have two choices on hop chamber- the proprietary (i.e. stock) Maggpul Masada or Wii Tech. The Wii is not useless by any stretch- it works. The question is whether it works any better than the stock hop-up unit. In my experience it seems to be a better setup but that may indeed be down to the improved air nozzle and a better hop rubber. The Guarder bucking is firmer (than the useless limp stock rubber) and of better quality and it works. No doubt there are many other hop rubbers around that work but it's most people's experience that the Guarder s fit for purpose.

 

Not sure why you thought it necessary to swap out what by most accounts (across the globe ) is the optimal hop-up rubber and quality tight bore set up but hey, fiddling for fiddling's sake is part of the fun in airsoft :-)

 

However, If you're firing 0.28, I can see that you may need to alter the Guarder hop rubber.

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Yours definitely had wobble. And it has since been fixed. Who else's has been confirmed to have wobble? Because out of the 3000 units sold so far, yours is the only one that I'm aware of that has been

I like how me pointing out the obvious in my last post has garnered a negative rep. LOL. Haters gonna hate.

I Lol'd at all the fanboys who had to have this must have aeg. To be honest it seems as if youy have all been taken for a ride. My A&K Masada with systema gearbox *suitcases* all over this ares ab

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Well I can definitely confirm that I got more range and accuracy out of the Systema/Prometheus than the Guarder (blue)/Madbull shooting .28's.

 

However I discovered that I'm also an idiot: the Systema bucking was too long, so the hop part (not sure what to call it) wasn't fully seated in the barrel. That would explain why setting hop to max did nothing, but doesn't explain why max did nothing on the Guarder blue, which WAS cut shorter to fit.

 

I think what I'll try next is the PDI w-hold bucking, that one seems to be very popular with Masada owners since it supposedly compensates for the crappy nub. I will forgo the chamber because that one guy with the WiiTech said he just switched back to the stock chamber; apparently it was the nozzle that was purely responsible for the improvement.

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The nub that the bbs comes into contact with which gives the bbs the back spin is more pronounced on the Guarder clear hop buckings. I discovered this a long long long time ago when my .25g bbs sailed high on zero hop inside a few Marui g36c's...also, the material they used on the bucking is just so sticky that it just gives whatever it comes in contact with a good grip.

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I personally don't line light weight inner barrels. They're more susceptible to resonant vibration. "Heavy is good...if you can't shoot them with it....you can always hit them with it" lol

U don't tape your inner barrels to create a firm fit into the outer barrel?

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New to the forum. Just wanted to post results from all the info I gathered from this thread. All of you have been a great help in getting my Masada running in top form. I've recently installed SHS 13:1 gears, corrected AOE with rubber washers, and installed a red element piston(which is a great fit in the GB, no binding whatsoever). With an SHS M100 I am shooting consistently in the low 350 fps range...perfect. However, I'm running into some feeding issues....mags not keeping up or not feeding correctly. From what I've read, i might have to modify or replace the tappet plate and/or sand down the nozzle. Here is a video with my results. The mag was almost empty at this point and battery wasnt at full charge. Let me know what you think. Happy Holidays!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCttl0MzG9E

Edited by cire32180
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just to let people know, I've used both the PDI W-Hold and Guarder 50% clear buckings without any mods to the nub - I had to use full hop to get a flat trajectory with the PDI bucking but the Guarder one over-hops anything past half-way turned. Definitely sticking with the Guarder bucking for the time being, seems pretty accurate too.

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You have two choices on hop chamber- the proprietary (i.e. stock) Maggpul Masada or Wii Tech. The Wii is not useless by any stretch- it works. The question is whether it works any better than the stock hop-up unit. In my experience it seems to be a better setup but that may indeed be down to the improved air nozzle and a better hop rubber. The Guarder bucking is firmer (than the useless limp stock rubber) and of better quality and it works. No doubt there are many other hop rubbers around that work but it's most people's experience that the Guarder s fit for purpose.

 

I saw no improvement with the Wii Tech chamber. It is worthless because all the work that needs to be done to take that part out is ridiculous. The ends do not justify the means.

 

However... THE AIR NOZZLE IS FULL OF WIN

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Picked up a Magpul PTS Masada AKM a couple days ago.

 

Issues I've had with the gun so far:

 

1. Low velocity shots- After taking the outer barrel off, I tried pushing in BBs by hand through the hop bucking and found that there's significant resistance when chambering BB's into the hop bucking-inner barrel assembly. Replacing it with a Guarder Hop bucking got rid of the said resistance.

 

2. Low velocity shots on a mag filled with over 106 rounds- Anything past 106 rounds with the magazine the gun came with yielded in inconsistent FPS readings and shot trajectory. On a full magazine (160 rounds), I would get sub 100 FPS readings with .20g BBs. After about 30 shots, my FPS would alternate FPS readings 90 FPS then back up to 330-340 FPS consistently. By consistently I mean I would get strings of 90-340-90-340-90-340-90-340 FPS readings. I noticed that if I only filled the magazine around 100 rounds, I get higher FPS readings (330-340 FPS range). Even then, I would get higher FPS readings once in a blue moon like a reading of 350 FPS.

 

3, Hop up not affecting the trajectory of the BBs- Seems like sticking a guarder clear hop bucking did not fix this issue. I ended up cutting a couple of pieces of shrink tubing (cutting them into halves and placing it over the hop bucking). I also trimmed part of the hop bucking (close to the lip) as the lip of the hop bucking doesn't sit properly when inserted in the hop chamber. After trimming the hop bucking part (near the lip), the lip sits properly and is round and does not have a flat-arched appearance looking through the chamber.

 

4. Hop bucking specs are off- I get the highest FPS readings using a Prometheus Soft Hop Bucking (purple) compared to a Guarder Hop bucking. The difference goes up to as much as 20-30 FPS.

 

 

I'm pretty puzzled with this. Everything looks mechanically sound. Compression checks out for the gearbox. Compression between the nozzle and hop lip is a different matter. I'm guessing the spring in the magazine is too stiff which affects the FPS readings on a full-almost full magazine so I might cut it down. Similar phenomena has occurred with high capacity midcaps and AEG's from past experience (i.e. Marui MP5 and MAG 90rd Midcaps),

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Yeah, I'm a complete noob, this is the very first airsoft gun I've purchased. I've never even played. And from my research it seems wise to fix the issues that it has out of the box to make it reliable. I've already taken it completely apart and shimmed the gears, changed the piston, piston head, bucking, corrected the angle of engagement a bit, and I'm waiting on a new air nozzle to come in the mail.

 

Things I've noticed so far: the selector switches were both loose. The magwell screws were very loose and one was screw head was slightly stripped, The piston's teeth did not appear to be spaced correctly as I changed it out to a Modify I compared the two and the teeth on the stock one were not consistant in there spacing....the modify one felt a lot smoother on the gear too. The Cylinder itself appears to have a seam inside it, that is not chrome plated, you can see a brass line down it. It feels smooth to the touch though. The fore grip has a little bit of play front to back. I wasn't impressed with the sights it came with, the rear one seems to be a little pliable almost.... just didn't make me feel like it was very sturdy when pushed on. I haven't pinned it down yet but I'm pretty sure there is some inconsistancy in the sealing/compression area.

 

So as I'm doing all this, I'm thinking that I'm going to need to replace a bunch of the internal parts as they just don't seem to be very good, especially the air seal/compression parts. So if I were to buy a kit to replace these parts would I just buy a version 2 piston/cylinder kit? Are they all the same, as in not gun type dependant?

 

 

Originally I purchased a PTS ACR from EhobbyAsia and it's been stuck in customs inspection since 12-24-11..... and EhobbyAsia is not responding to my emails about it. So I found a new one locally and bought it.

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Picked up a Magpul PTS Masada AKM a couple days ago.

 

Issues I've had with the gun so far:

 

1. Low velocity shots- After taking the outer barrel off, I tried pushing in BBs by hand through the hop bucking and found that there's significant resistance when chambering BB's into the hop bucking-inner barrel assembly. Replacing it with a Guarder Hop bucking got rid of the said resistance.

 

2. Low velocity shots on a mag filled with over 106 rounds- Anything past 106 rounds with the magazine the gun came with yielded in inconsistent FPS readings and shot trajectory. On a full magazine (160 rounds), I would get sub 100 FPS readings with .20g BBs. After about 30 shots, my FPS would alternate FPS readings 90 FPS then back up to 330-340 FPS consistently. By consistently I mean I would get strings of 90-340-90-340-90-340-90-340 FPS readings. I noticed that if I only filled the magazine around 100 rounds, I get higher FPS readings (330-340 FPS range). Even then, I would get higher FPS readings once in a blue moon like a reading of 350 FPS.

 

3, Hop up not affecting the trajectory of the BBs- Seems like sticking a guarder clear hop bucking did not fix this issue. I ended up cutting a couple of pieces of shrink tubing (cutting them into halves and placing it over the hop bucking). I also trimmed part of the hop bucking (close to the lip) as the lip of the hop bucking doesn't sit properly when inserted in the hop chamber. After trimming the hop bucking part (near the lip), the lip sits properly and is round and does not have a flat-arched appearance looking through the chamber.

 

4. Hop bucking specs are off- I get the highest FPS readings using a Prometheus Soft Hop Bucking (purple) compared to a Guarder Hop bucking. The difference goes up to as much as 20-30 FPS.

 

 

I'm pretty puzzled with this. Everything looks mechanically sound. Compression checks out for the gearbox. Compression between the nozzle and hop lip is a different matter. I'm guessing the spring in the magazine is too stiff which affects the FPS readings on a full-almost full magazine so I might cut it down. Similar phenomena has occurred with high capacity midcaps and AEG's from past experience (i.e. Marui MP5 and MAG 90rd Midcaps),

 

UPDATE:

 

Stock Piston Head has two holes (ports). I replaced it with a TM Piston Head. FPS consistency was consistently inconsistent. My friend installed a Systema Aluminum (Has 6 or 8 holes) Piston Head. Since then the inconsistent FPS issue on a full magazine has gone away. Gun feeds and has FPS readings that does not jump 20-30 fps throughout the magazine (from full, half full, empty). Another thing that might be a factor would be BBs. My buddy and I switched from Javelin .20g BBs to Toytec .25g BBs.

 

Javelin .25g BBs fed horribly. Low velocity bb's, skipping on semi-auto and full auto.

 

Javelin .25g and .20g BBs have fed in Dual Sector Gear setups flawlessly and those setups were shooting 60+ rounds per second.

 

Perhaps its how the Javelin BBs were feeding in the magazine.

 

I haven't exactly figured out what was causing the velocity issues. So far, changing the piston head to a ported one, plus switching BBs has yielded favorable results.

 

Current setup is as follows:

 

Systema Aluminum Bearing Piston Head

Guarder Clear/Soft Hop Bucking (added spacers on top to increase hop setting adjustment- used heat shrink tubing)

Guarder SP100 Spring

Tokyo Marui Inner Barrel (Chopped down to spec)

Tokyo Marui Cylinder (Ported for M4 length inner barrel)

 

All else is stock ARES/Magpul PTS internal parts.

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Was just at Airsoft Extreme. For reference:

 

Chronoed the MAGPUL PTS ACR and got 360+ FPS with .20g BBs.

Chronoed the MAGPUL PTS AKM and got 340+ FPS with .20g BBs.

 

Both were stock guns. They just got put on the shelves the past week so I'm guessing they are of a recent production run.

 

I'll have to install the stock spring back into my AKM and re-check the FPS I'm getting out of it after I replaced a few parts (Tokyo Marui stock inner barrel, Guarder clear/soft hop bucking, Systema aluminum piston head, Tokyo Marui stock cylinder for M4). With those parts installed along with a Guarder SP100 spring, I'm shooting 340+ FPS with .20g BBs.

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Installed the stock spring back into the gun.

 

Systema Aluminum Piston Head

Guarder Soft/Clear Hop Bucking

TM Cylinder (m4)

TM Inner barrel (6.08mm cut down to 317mm)

 

Hop was set for Toytec .25g BBs. Used Javelin .20g BBs to chrono. Masada AKM was shooting 357-363 FPS (An increase of ~20 from when the gun was stock). I'm sure a tighter bore barrel will yield higher FPS results but yeah. The spring is capable of shooting up to 360 FPS with a stock length inner barrel.

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Bore of the stock cylinder head nozzle is 4.35mm. A Marui cylinder head nozzle has a bore of 4.75mm.

 

Length of cylinder head nozzle is 24mm for the stock magpul/Ares.

 

Version 3 cylinder head fits and allows for the gearbox to shut close....perhaps an Aug cylinder head will be suitable for better air flow....

 

Posting up more findings when I hop on the puter

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As far as replacement micro switches go, I found one that fits on the slot which required some modification. The down side is that the spring in the trigger-switch knocker doesn't push the button on the microswitch hard enough. It may be because the replacement micro switch I had was rated for 20A compared to the stock 15A switch. The button on the microswitch is stiffer on the 20A version (off of a Classic Army M249).

 

 

 

 

 

While that sounds like its a bummer, I remember picking up a replacement microswitch from a local electronics store that fit the CA M249. I might be making a trip to see if they have these in stock.

 

As mentioned before, the micro switch assembly can be used with a NON active breaking mosfet to save it. The down side however is that the space will be limited. You'll need one of those "teflon" insulated wiring which is similar to the wiring used by systema on their switch assemblies. Aside from ARS (airsoftresearchsyndicate) and Echigoya, I'm not sure where else one could get these.

 

 

 

 

I have also decided to radius the corners of the slot for the cylinder (to the front of the gearbox) using a dremel.

 

MAGPULPTSMASADAradiusedfront2.jpg

MAGPULPTSMASADAradiusedfront1.jpg

-----------------------------------

 

 

In my previous post, I noted that the cylinder head's nozzle bore is smaller in diameter compared to a stock TM cylinder head nozzle bore. Such was the case with G&P cylinder heads. I recall replacing a G&P cylinder with a buddy on a friend's G&P M4 and got an instant 15-20 FPS boost. The Stock Magpul PTS Masada cylinder head makes for the system to be inefficient. I'll grab me a Version 3 cylinder head for an AUG and see if its compatible and report back if/when I feel like it. :P

Edited by sacairsoftsn00py
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