speculator Posted February 28, 2014 Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Beside that "S.L.A.S.H." (I still prefer the std RIS).. does someone knows more or even tried this CNC HUC from Ace 1 Arms: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/ace-1-arms-cnc-hop-up-chamber-for-pts-magpul-masada-aeg.html#.UuE4C3_GKSM DOC Just got mine in! as well an apple airsoft nozzle and wii tech ball bearing spring guide. Will let everyone know how it works on the field. (from what I gather, the system is pretty much a standard v2 hopup style) hmm anyone have problems with loose triggers on full auto? if i pull it all the way down, it seems the contacts will get loose and stop firing. If i pull it gently, I can fire full auto with no issues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Captain Leisure Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 hmm anyone have problems with loose triggers on full auto? if i pull it all the way down, it seems the contacts will get loose and stop firing. If i pull it gently, I can fire full auto with no issues. I had a problem with my trigger locking up. Turned out the two switch blocks were not properly seated into the gearbox shell and were sometimes moving very slightly. Solved it with a dab of superglue on the nubs that locate the switch blocks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Captain Leisure Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 Something else you may want to consider is in this incredibly helpful post on http://www.tkoverkill.com/showthread.php?tid=1307 so thanks to Ycare: The selector on the ACR is made of two external knobs, which are screwed to respectively one dented wheel on the each side. The knobs also have a kind of "clicking" position to help choosing between safe, semi, and auto. This is independent of the actual gearbox inside.The way the selectors on each side "connect" to the selection mechanism in the gearbox, is only through those dented wheels. When you take the gearbox out, there is no way to really know what position is safe, semi, and auto, besides having experience with V2 gearboxes. Thus, sometimes, the gearbox internal selector mechanism, will be slightly misaligned, or "not on the right position", when inserted in the lower receiver, and the results will be non, or bad, functioning selector switches.Look on the diagram provided with the AEG, you will see which dented wheels I'm talking about.Basically, to try fixing it, you need to have only the lower receiver, and the gearbox still inside the receiver, but with the attachments removed (bottom grip and 2 small hex screws in the magazine receiver removed). Once this is done, slide slightly the gearbox out (make sure the selectors are in semi, else you might have difficulties, or maybe it's another one, not sure, just try). Once you can see that you have no problem sliding the gearbox out, just try moving the dented wheel on the left side of the gearbox (left side if you were holding it to shoot) a little bit in one direction (or the other), then push the gearbox back into the receiver, connecting back to the dented wheels of the selectors on each side. Connect a battery, and try switching between safe, semi and auto. You'll see that if you turn too much the wheel, or in the wrong direction, safe might become auto, and vice versa. It's no problem, just trial and error and you should be able to find the "sweet spot" where semi will work flawlessly without needing to switch back and forth.Make sure you have a spring inside the gearbox when you try all this, else the semi might lock up more often than usual. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Probotector Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 eh stuff every masada user should have figured out when reassembling. What i usually do is adjust the selector plate by hand so that it is merely touching the col. and i also scratched marks onto the shell for reference. on phone teh spellings is much sucks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fly'n Brian Posted March 22, 2014 Report Share Posted March 22, 2014 Had these for awhile now, but forgot to post a photo of them. Grey Ghost Gear duel AK mag panel with Masada AKM mags. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fly'n Brian Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 Quick question. What size roll pin punch is need to remove the pins from the barrel block, so I can remove the hop up? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D.O.C. Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 It's a 4mm hole/rollpin, so I would suggest a pin-punch wit a slightly smaller diameter of about 3.8mm ;-) DOC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D.O.C. Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 BTW, finally got my very own Masada :-) S/N MPTS89154 ProLine CQB, black Obviously one of the latest units, as mine seem to have the reinforced GB shell as well as a red (?) aluminum nozzle..pics maybe later. DOC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steelfallenangel Posted April 8, 2014 Report Share Posted April 8, 2014 Hey guys, finally got my own DMR parts in. Started working on the internals now and would like some advice. I know right off the bat that the Wii tech hopup and adjustment nob is a must. And I'm planning on getting someone professional to install a rhop with M nub and swap out the bucking for a lonex 90' one. If building it to be a single shot shooter would I have much to worry about if I was running something along the lines of a M130 with a bore up cylinder set and higher torque motor (maybe SHS?)? I'm not looking for a crazy high FPS (since I'd like to be able to tone it down more easily if I ever chose to run it again for a field rifle or cqb role. Also have you guys that built these found that you needed to actually swap out the inner? When buying the new 18' I learned that these come stock with 6.03s. Do you actually see a huge improvement transitioning it over to a 6.01 or is the benefit marginal and will be more of a headache for cleaning and maintenance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Probotector Posted April 9, 2014 Report Share Posted April 9, 2014 Make sure to use a Sorbopad and to round the corners of the gearbox shell. The earlier version of the gearbox shell lacks sufficient reinforcement, thus it can easily break on stronger setups. A 6.01 barrel will not improve accuracy, but it will lead to slightly higher FPS due to the smaller diameter. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
steelfallenangel Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Ok, that's what I was looking to learn. Wasn't sure if it was required for something like a M130. Pretty sure it is the earlier version since the grip doesn't have the texture of the miniature magpul logo's and only has it at the base. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lyng Posted April 27, 2014 Report Share Posted April 27, 2014 Air-lab has just got the CNC gearboxes in, 7075 aluminum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted April 28, 2014 Report Share Posted April 28, 2014 Ok, that's what I was looking to learn. Wasn't sure if it was required for something like a M130. Pretty sure it is the earlier version since the grip doesn't have the texture of the miniature magpul logo's and only has it at the base. I got one of these when it first came out years ago. I noted that the pistol grip on it has the miniature magpul logo all over the grip. I dont think the g&p versions had that texturing. Cant say anything about the sv line. Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NeoVeNoM Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Air-lab has just got the CNC gearboxes in, 7075 aluminum Interesting, I have the Aztec cnc gearbox, and the fitting is not 100% accurate. Then again, it's a lot cheaper too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lyng Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Where is the fitting off? Air-lab version is 9mm vearings and bearings are included so price is higher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lyng Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Where is the fitting off? Air-lab version is 9mm vearings and bearings are included so price is higher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SOL Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 Has anyone ever tried Frankensteining an A&K Masada's collapsible stock onto a Magpul PTS ACR? A quick forums search turned up no results. I own the PTS ACR and am soon coming into possession of the A&K Masada, and was just wondering if I could save a few $$$ by not having to buy the PTS folding stock. Is the size/scale difference really to the point where the two stocks are not interchangeable? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted July 16, 2014 Report Share Posted July 16, 2014 R.e. the last line, short answer: Yep Quote Link to post Share on other sites
coolurjets Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Made by two entirely different design teams, one of which only had photos to go off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SOL Posted July 23, 2014 Report Share Posted July 23, 2014 Made by two entirely different design teams, one of which only had photos to go off. R.e. the last line, short answer: Yep Haha, after I got the A&K Masada I put it besides my Magpul PTS ACR to compare and nearly fell out of my chair laughing. It really is so much smaller! Strangely, the A&K feels much heavier than the PTS version. I'm guessing that is because of the lower quality/heavier polymers and perhaps heavier internals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Juhna Posted July 24, 2014 Report Share Posted July 24, 2014 Post picture. I fear that I can never look at my A&K masada the same way after this. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SOL Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Post picture. I fear that I can never look at my A&K masada the same way after this. I'm surprised I couldn't find any comparison pics online, but basically looking at them side by side: -The A&K's hand-guard is about an inch shorter in length -With both in carbine configuration, the A&K's barrel is actually almost an inch longer (or at least it looks that way since the handguard is shorter) -The A&K's externals are also noticeably of lower quality, especially when looking at the finish on the barrel. The PTS looks realistically metallic, the A&K is just flat black. -The A&K is around half an inch shorter in height than the PTS -You need to extend the A&K's extendable stock nearly all the way, or at least 3 "clicks" to make it match in length compared to the PTS with its fixed stock. In all, every piece is scaled down by a tiny bit, which adds up to a much smaller gun in total. The A&K is much heavier for some reason, but it really kind of looks like a toy when I place the two side by side. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Probotector Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 I concur. I own a PTS and had an A&K before, the difference is staggering. The PTS just feels beefier and has obviously better externals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Juhna Posted July 25, 2014 Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 Well that explains why I need to extend the stock all the way for the gun to feel comfortable to shoot. Luckily I have not seen any other ACR on this side of the globe yet. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
D.O.C. Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 (edited) I finally got myself a WE MSK modular handguard and I can tell you, it wasn't easy nor fast to get hold of that part without buying a complete MSK. However, it does look really sweet and I thought I should share some pics with you :-) Installation was rather easy, as I only had to lathe two small adaptor/spacer pieces to fit it (pics/specs on request), so now the handguard fits very tight. DOC Edited August 9, 2014 by D.O.C. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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