Tacitus Posted May 12, 2010 Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 Sorry if this is in the wrong section :/ This is the battery: http://www.flightpower.co.uk/ProductListDetail.asp?FileB2BArticleDetailID=1459323 The width and length seem ok, but it might be a bit too tall, so I was wondering if anyone has tried it. I'm really not a fan of the large foregrips, so space is at a premium in there. Or if anyone knows of a similar 11.1v lipo, please post it here. They make a 11.1v 1200 Mah which would definitely fit, but I'd like a larger capacity lipo ideally. T Link to post Share on other sites
Harmless Posted May 12, 2010 Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 I've just got the 1200mAh one and its great, but with specs like that why wouldn't it be! Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted May 12, 2010 Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 A 1200 mAh LiPo isn't enough for you? Wow, how many kilos of BBs do you use per game? Link to post Share on other sites
Tacitus Posted May 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 A 1200 mAh LiPo isn't enough for you? Wow, how many kilos of BBs do you use per game? Hehe not a huge amount! Do you know roughly how many shots 1200 mAh would give me? Link to post Share on other sites
The General Posted May 12, 2010 Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 Well my 1400 mah Lipo in my AK74 was at about half capacity after about 2000 rounds give or take. Many of the shots on semi. So I would say conservativly about 3000 rounds. Buy two and then you are gold. Link to post Share on other sites
Tacitus Posted May 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2010 Oh wow. That's awesome mileage. May I ask what other internals are in your AK74? Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 That's LiPos for ya. Unless you play for several days straight, or use drum mags generously, anything around 1000mAh is more than enough. I use a 11.1V Rhino 40C 1050mAh in my hi-speed M4 (not really hi-speed tuned, it just works that way when you combine 11.1V LiPo with a G&P M160 motor). It goes ~110M/s. After a typical gameday with several 450rd hicaps used, the battery only charges around 300mAh before it's full again. Link to post Share on other sites
gzus11 Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 that pack costs a fair bit , and are you sure you need 11.1v? check hobby citycomparison page for configuration and capacity. id say, unless 11.1v is essential, get the largest capacity 7.4v you can fit within the battery compartment. i would not pay the high prices for these branded packs as they perform the same as sippy and turnigy from hobby city. if you want to pay the money for a branded pack buy the polyquest with increased charging rates up to 5c for example Link to post Share on other sites
Tacitus Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 Thanks for the info so far guys! I aleady have a 7.4v 2050 mAh LiPo, but I haven't skirmished it enough to run it flat and I had no idea 1200 mAh would be more than enough! Gzus11, thanks for that link. I didn't know a new battery could be so affordable The problem I'm having is that quick trigger pulls in semi-auto often leave my gears partially cycled, engaging the cut-off lever just enough to disable semi-auto. A few rounds in full auto is the only way to cure it. Don from Unconventional Airsoft suggested a 11.1v LiPo, saying the indreased ROF might reduce the chance of a partial cycle completion. But as an unrelated issue I need new gears, so I decided to try a faster ratio. When they arrive I'll see if they help at all... Link to post Share on other sites
gzus11 Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 no, if you have tha partial cycle etc on 7v 11v will give more partial cycle, leading to double tap on semi. it will also increas rof which could cause trouble in your gearbox. do you have a motor controller(mosfet) installed? a plain mosfet switch will give better trigger response but again may give double tap on 7v, so id say build buy etc a braked mosfet switch - dc motor controller detailed in the tech section hoe to build and info threads. if you can solder and source the parts its straight forward build and install. Link to post Share on other sites
The General Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 Oh wow. That's awesome mileage. May I ask what other internals are in your AK74? Its got Deans connectors, Infected Mosfet, Kanzen bearings, Prommy 509mm tightbore, blue madbull rubber, SCS bucking, Guarder SP110 spring, bearing spring guide and vented piston head. All other parts are stock including the gears and motor. Its had a reshim and grease with Teflon Ceramic grease. Its doing 350 fps on the nails head once the hop is adjusted correctly. Outstanding gun. Link to post Share on other sites
Tacitus Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 no, if you have tha partial cycle etc on 7v 11v will give more partial cycle, leading to double tap on semi. it will also increas rof which could cause trouble in your gearbox. do you have a motor controller(mosfet) installed? a plain mosfet switch will give better trigger response but again may give double tap on 7v, so id say build buy etc a braked mosfet switch - dc motor controller detailed in the tech section hoe to build and info threads. if you can solder and source the parts its straight forward build and install. I have one of Infected's AB MOSFETs installed, luckily I'm not getting any double taps with a 7.4v LiPo. Do you mind explaining how a faster ROF (caused by a 11.1v LiPo) will worsen the partial cycle problem? Don suggested the opposite would be true so I'm unsure what to do:blink: Also my new gears are on their way, so my ratio will be changing from 19.2:1 to 16:1. In your opinion, will that worsen the partial cycle problem? Its got Deans connectors, Infected Mosfet, Kanzen bearings, Prommy 509mm tightbore, blue madbull rubber, SCS bucking, Guarder SP110 spring, bearing spring guide and vented piston head. All other parts are stock including the gears and motor. Its had a reshim and grease with Teflon Ceramic grease. Its doing 350 fps on the nails head once the hop is adjusted correctly. Outstanding gun. Thanks for that, it does sound nice Link to post Share on other sites
gzus11 Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 i cant say if it will resolve your specific problem. but whats happening. momentum = mass x velocity (cant recall the terms for rotational) mass will remain constant and velocity increases due to the voltage increase (approx 66%) therfore momentum increases. if mass and braking remain the larger momentun takes longer to dissipate, and more overrun. this may stop the semi cutoff being locked but does not reduce the overrun lowering the gear ratio means that the gears spin faster, again higher momentum to be dissipated and more gear overrun, which may prevent the semi problem. also if you are combining the 11.1v with the lower ratio gears the rof will greater again. last thing i have to say it your braking chip may not be operating at 100% capability, my setup stops at the same point every time on semi whether the trigger is pulled quick succession or slow single shots. this could also be down to the motor having a higher resistance and getting less effect from the brake (as it is related to reverse current flow) have a check of your motor for worn brushes contamination etc you may even be able to clean it out and break/bed it in the brushes again. Link to post Share on other sites
Tacitus Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 Thanks for the scientific explanation, it makes perfect sense now. Without a sensor on the sector gear (and the necessary electronics to monitor/control it), it's an inexact system, and with so many variables it's hard to know if there's one particular part of the system which would fix the problem. My motor is an old CA stock one which came with the gun, which looks pretty tricky to disassemble. But I have a new Guarder Infinite Torque Up motor coming to me along with the gears, so when I've installed it we'll see if the braking improves. Do you mean that there could also be a problem with the chip itself? If so, how would I go about testing it? Also, while this question is probably answered elsewhere it's always good to get several opinions, so I'll just ask it anyway: Will my new motor need any cleaning/preparation etc before I start using it? Link to post Share on other sites
gzus11 Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 id say break/bed the motor in before you even apply power to it. it comes from rc and helps the motor perform better and last longer. the chip is probably fine if you say its an old motor, i was just thinking of causes fr poor braking most likely the old motor/brushes. so run the motor in first then try it in the before changing anything else, then go to the gears then battery for a resolution. to run the motor in, you want a cup/pint glass of water and a 3v supply, two d cells etc. wire up the motor place in the water then apply the 3v and let it run. some guides say run the two d cells until the motor stops. but last i did was to spin the new motor by hand for reference and then run the motor for 5 mins and feel the spin, repeat. once it run in it will feel much smoother and the brushes will be seated correctly so you see less sparking when the motor i run at full power. Link to post Share on other sites
Tacitus Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 Ok, thanks for that. I'll report back when I have an update, probably in a week or two (the parts are coming from HK). T Link to post Share on other sites
gzus11 Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 good luck Link to post Share on other sites
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