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H&K / Umarex / ARES G36 Elite

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ah ######, evike and there linked shopping carts, oh and I meant like if you have any pictures of the gun whatever model you have just post them, I want to keep looking at this gun, yeah Ill post the links again.

 

Looks like there updating today, see how long that lasts, ill post them again later.

 

Ok, well pretty much one battery was one of those brick ones and the other was a crane stock battery, what would fit do you think?

 

 

 

 

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At a game yesterday I brietly tested a brand new G36C from another player.

 

Looked solid and well built. The blowback was nice. Not like a GBBR, of course, but not as weak as it looks in the youtube videos.

 

The other guy was happy when I told him that under the ugly color sticker there were engraved markings, like the ones of my own Ares's old model G36 :D

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Nice, yeah I will be ordering my full size g36 now, with the brick battery, hopefully it will be worth it.

 

When you get it, can you please give us some pictures of the red dot on in doors and outside? For some reason it seems like all reviewers manage to not have the battery for it.

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Ah, sorry about the stupidness, my dad ordered the other H&K mp5, instead of the g36, ah well I cant do too much other then argue, well ill just do a review on that, sorry for the disappointment boys, but hopefully you will tune in to my other review of the HK series, see you on the far side.

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I dont know how it compares, but its a great pice -shoots good right out of the box, excellent finish (rip that sticker off), quality materials, close to original, good gearbox, easy swap of springs... well. I dont think you will be disappointed!

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I dont know how it compares, but its a great pice -shoots good right out of the box, excellent finish (rip that sticker off), quality materials, close to original, good gearbox, easy swap of springs... well. I dont think you will be disappointed!

 

Cheers NikE

 

I was going to look for a CA36K, but quite tempted by a K version of these now, I certainly like the sound of their external build quality from the various reviews I've seen/read.

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I have just had to buy one of these after having a go on one, it is a really nice gun. So far I have put a couple of thousand rounds through it and not had any issues. Apart from the crumb trademarks, this gun is really nice. I would have preferred it to have not had the trademarks and then I could have saved a few quid, but that is another issue that I do not want to go into again.

 

As for how it compares to a CA G36, then the simple answer is that it does not. I have both now, having had a CA G36 for many years now, and I have hated it for many years, but only kept it because it was an important part of my collection. I cannot get rid of it as it has the army code body etc. so has the more realistic trademarks, but that is the only reason it stays. I wouldnt even try and sell it I feel that it is that aweful. I have HAD to replace almost every part of it, so really the only part that remains CA is the lower grip, the muzzle and the low cap magazine. I even had to replace the magwell.

 

There are people who will swear by CA guns, but I personally would never recommend them to anyone, and I will never buy another one, even if they are the only company who produce the model that I want. This is not just from my experience with one gun. I told a mate just how bad my experience with CA was when he was looking at getting a CA gun. He liked the gun, and got it despite my warning. It lasted one game before it was no good, and now is being used in about 30 different guns as it was only really ever any good for spare parts.

 

So, I dont like CA, I will openly admit that. I dont like Umarex either, so this gun really does make me feel funny towards it, as I dont like it, but it makes me smile. If I ignore the bits that Umarex have ruined, and just base the guns like for like against each other in terms of performance, then there is no comparison. The Umarex/Ares wins hands down. I have also had Ares guns in the past that have not been great, but never any gun as bad as my CA G36. I have not tried to strip this gun yet (not had to), but I also believe one huge advantage of this gun is that it strips down just like the real thing, very unlike the CA. It also seems to have a nice easy quick release for the spring, so that you can swap out the spring to adjust the FPS without the need to strip the gearbox, one thing that I think is very important. If you havent broke it, dont replace the spring and have to fix it comes to mind. With this it would be simple.

 

Also, the blowback on this gun is nice. It doesnt rock you off your feet, but you know you are firing it. I mention this as I like airsoft because it is more realistic than paintball. The more the gun behaves like the real thing the better for me. I am probably going to run with this gun for the next few games I play to see just how it pans out, with the exception of the Airhard Asylum game (see my siggy) as that is pistol and shotgun only!

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Spencerman, as others have said earlier on in this thread, there are trades beneath the crappy white 6mm BB ones, they are only metallic sticker that fits snug into the space, so appears to be painted/stamped onto the receiver.

 

Once you remove this, you'll find some nice looking H&K trademarks and it changes the look of the gun.

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Sorry, forgot to say, I was a bit dubious at first as there didn't seem to be an edge to the sticker so I used a scalpel. It can be a bit tricky, but once you get an edge it will come off easy.

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Just found out on mine that the charging handle (the part that swings out sideways) can be locked to the left or right by rotating it outwards, and then pushing it in perpendicular to the bore. No real use, but points for realism. :D

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I have already removed my sticker, the thin piece of aluminium with the licensed trades etched on. I saw that mentioned pages ago before I bought the gun, otherwise maybe I still wouldnt have, but I mention them only because that is how the gun comes, and we are paying indirectly Umarex in order to have that stuck on. I like how the true manufacturers of the gun (Ares) have put the nicer trades underneath. :) And yes, it is awkward to get started, I used a razor blade and was very careful and took my time, and for once patience actually paid off. It is funny, usually the first sticker that I take off the gun is the warning one or the made in... :D

 

I also like the fact that you can use the bolt release inside the trigger guard to lock the bolt open, so that you can adjust your hop up easily, this is nice as the bolt release would serve no purpose on the aeg otherwise.

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I also like the fact that you can use the bolt release inside the trigger guard to lock the bolt open, so that you can adjust your hop up easily, this is nice as the bolt release would serve no purpose on the aeg otherwise.

 

Very nice indeed, but be advised of this:

 

"Never fire the gun with the bolt locked back. The anti-reversal latch will be disengaged, allowing your gears to spin backwards. This puts a lot of stress on them."

 

Taken from:

 

http://www.spearairsoft.com/Ares_G36_Review.html

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I have already removed my sticker, the thin piece of aluminium with the licensed trades etched on. I saw that mentioned pages ago before I bought the gun, otherwise maybe I still wouldnt have, but I mention them only because that is how the gun comes, and we are paying indirectly Umarex in order to have that stuck on. I like how the true manufacturers of the gun (Ares) have put the nicer trades underneath. :) And yes, it is awkward to get started, I used a razor blade and was very careful and took my time, and for once patience actually paid off. It is funny, usually the first sticker that I take off the gun is the warning one or the made in... :D

 

I also like the fact that you can use the bolt release inside the trigger guard to lock the bolt open, so that you can adjust your hop up easily, this is nice as the bolt release would serve no purpose on the aeg otherwise.

 

If you get any glue residue after removing the sticker, use oil and soak the glue in it for a while. Common olive oil or whatever you have in the kitchen. Use a soft cloth and no force, it will come of without a scratch.

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If you get any glue residue after removing the sticker, use oil and soak the glue in it for a while. Common olive oil or whatever you have in the kitchen. Use a soft cloth and no force, it will come of without a scratch.

Now that is a really handy tip, probably the most important one for anyone buying this gun! :D

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Well, I broke mine on Sunday. Got a jam in the barrel which I didnt notice soon enough and it snapped the spring that pulls the plastic piece forward that moves the nozzle (I cant remember the part name as alcohol has weakened me! :D ), but talk about good/bad stripping. It is really good in one sense as it all pulls apart really easy, version 3 gearbox, so depending on what has broken and how far down you need to strip the gun depends on how good/bad it is. For your usual things like power upgrade or downgrade it is awesome, and as fingers crossed this is the only thing that you would normally have to do on a gun, that is great. In my case I had to strip it all down which is bad.

 

I would not have done it myself. There are too many pieces that make my head spin, give me a gas/real gun any day!! :) I am sure that having done it a few time I will be as confident to take down a V3 as I am with a V2 gearbox, but as this was my first, it was scary stuff.

 

However...I now have a problem. I have put it all back together, and the gearbox all works fine and is back together fine as far as I can tell by looking at it. All the parts are where they should be and appear to be the correct way around. The problem is when I pop the gearbox back into the body and try to fire it or move the charging handle. It is really stiff to move and doesnt work the blowback. I notice that I am not the first person to have this problem, I saw that someone else encountered the same problem a page or so back, but didnt really see any follow up to whether he solved it and whether it was the part upside down. As I mentioned earlier, I am pretty sure that the part for the blowback is the correct way around (the metal slide in the top), so am I locating it incorrectly or something?? I dont particularly want to strip the gearbox again if I dont have to, as I say, that seems to be working fine, and if it isnt broke I will no longer try and fix it, broke too many guns that way and FINALLY learnt my lesson on that one! :D

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Friend got the G36C model. Way better build quality and weight balance than the CA I had.

 

Anyone know what 9.6 battery can fit in the Umarex/Ares G36C model handguard? Having trouble finding one.

 

I used a Tenergy 1400 MaH NiMh battery initially, and that was a VERY tight fit. In fact, I used some liquid tape (which is like a rubber coating) on some of the sharper edges in the battery area to minimize battery wire damage. I have also used a 1100 MaH LiPo which required some padding to keep the battery from moving around.

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