TDI Kriss Build

[bankz5152]

Hey Guys,

 

Since I bought my MP9 I’ve fallen in love with hard kicking different/unique GBB SMGs. I’m already looking into buying an MP7, but want something that little bit special.

 

So I thought I'd have a go at making a TDI Kriss SV.

 

My thoughts where to start off using a Glock 18C (probably a JG18C) and follow a similar build guide to

this one.

I'd use 2mm thick ABS Sheet, some aluminium sheet & tubing and a variance of other airsoft parts like pistol grips, rails etc...

 

I’ve been researching and developing the project all day, I don’t think it will be too difficult. I’ve got most of it worked out, just a few bits which I’ll have to work out when I start the build.

 

So far I’ve found -

 

G36 Stock - If anyone has one going ill buy one ASAP if not ill buy from HK

Selector Switches

Short rails

Trigger Aluminium

Frame Aluminium 1” SQ

ABS Sheet Black 500mmx500mmx2.5mm

G18 50rd Magazines

Enhanced Recoil Springs (if needed)

 

Still need to find -

Cheap G18C

~400mm RIS Top Rail

Small flat head Hex/Allen nuts/bolts

Probably a few other bits along the line

 

As in the above thread I'm going to start off using a 1" square tube of aluminium as the upper frame. Then fit the pistol grip at the back and the Glock to the front.

 

For the trigger mechanism I was thinking a very simple design. A bar connected on a pivot to the current trigger that travels back the a

Rear trigger with a spring mounted behind. The bar will be mounted to the top of the trigger, well as high as I can go then cut the rest off along with the trigger guard.

 

The other difficulty would be the relocation of the selector switch. Where I’m a little stuck, I did have an idea but then realised the slide blows back so the idea fails. The only other thing I could do would be to have it stuck into full auto, which I don’t mind, but semi would be nice.

 

Any Ideas?

 

One thing that may cause a problem is the blowback of the slide, more importantly how far it blows back, if I find its too far ill use something smaller like a G26C, might be easier with that anyways.

 

On top of the aluminium frame I’m going to cut and heat form the ABS for the body work, for some neatness I will plastic weld the corners & joints. Although ill try to have most of the pieces made from one sheet.

 

I'll try to make it in 4 parts. Upper Receiver, Lower Receiver, Glock Housing and Stock. Once it’s together it should be disassembled in 2 parts, upper receiver and lower receiver (includes Glock housing). The two parts will be held together by small allen/hex bolts, this way I can get inside for easy maintenance and repair.

 

I think its do able. Also this is going to be nothing like my previous projects, I’m going to work hard sat this especially now I can obtain good materials.

 

Let me know what you think. Unfortunately there won’t be any progress until I obtain a G18C/G23C but the other materials are on the way!

 

Thanks

Josh

[ED-SKaR]

the slide travel on the 26c is the same as the 18c. however it is possible to short-stroke the slide so that it functions perfectly with about half the normal travel (you need to measure it properly so you dont ruin the mech). You would have trouble with the slide lock, but you can cut a new notch in the slide further forward than the origonal.

[bankz5152]

Ahh, Thats good to know if I do happen to come into problems. Would that in turn boost the ROF?

[Crimson]

Dude you rock for trying !

[X Lupin]

The solution for the selector switch is simple. I thought of this alot when I was going to make my old M14's select fire. What you have to do is simply make it so the selector switch only engages with the forward part of the glock's fireselector, your selector would not completely wrap around the glock's, just the front, thus the slide could travel backwards, and then when in battery able to be switched.

 

I'm not so sure how well I explained that. I'll draw something if necessary.

[ED-SKaR]

Ahh, Thats good to know if I do happen to come into problems. Would that in turn boost the ROF?

 

 

Yes, yes it would!

[BFOUR]

I followed that same guide as far as plastic welding. I tried with A G18C and failed. The slide is the big issue.

[bankz5152]

BFOUR -

The slide as in how far it travels back? Would the short stroking correct this?

 

Ed-Skar - How far does the slide go back when short stroked? I drew a very rough mock up on some card to see how much ABS I would need and from that im guessing ive got around 5 - 6cm of space for the slide to blow back.

 

X Lupin -

I think I see what your getting at but could you draw somthing please?

 

Thing is I dont want to spend £100 on a Glock for this not to work.

 

Could someone who owns a Glock 18C/17 tell me the length in CM the slide is from the pistol grip when locked back?

 

Im not too worried if it ends up being a few cm longer than the real steel just as long as its GBB.

 

Can you buy extended Glock inner barrels? Would save me alot of time whitiling one from an AEG barrel.

[BFOUR]

IM not familiar with the short stroke or how far it goes back so I cant anwser that. Also since the slide moves back its harded to make a frame support. The only real way to attack the gun to the frame is from the underside of the lower reciever. I contemplated starting over and removing as much material off the pistol itself. Ive already removed the back half of the grip but I plan on making a wood carbine with my B18 now. Depends on how yours turns out. lol.

[aznriptide859]

If you can copy Epyon's build well, that'd be awesome

[bankz5152]

Right then, ill have to wait for someone thats done it to answer!

 

My plan to fit the glock nice and securly was to have 2.5mm thick aluminium folded around the bottom rail up and folded around the aluminium upper frame using both araldite and 2 steel pins going straight through the body work if i can (been a while since ive had a glock).

 

If that proves too difficult I was going to get a Glock scope rail fit it via the RIS with araldite and chop off the bits I dont need, doing that will give me alot more surface area to work with along with being very solid.

 

I think either one could work thought the second would probably be more secure.

 

I was also considering adding a small weight to the top back of the slide (if space permits) in order to get a stronger recoil and slow the ROF. When I had my 18C and 23F they could both empty a 50rd clip bloody fast so short strokeing it will make them shoot crazy *albatross* fast which isnt the best of things when mags are expensive and its difficult to maintain/repair. I dont think this would hinder the performance/reliability that much.

 

On researching this short strokeing i came found that apparently there is a short stroke spring set available to buy here. Would that work?

 

Some more info on the short strokeing would be very helpful!

[BFOUR]

I think the scope mount idea is good because then you ownt have to worry about clearance really. But that may throw the look off a bit as far as width and barrel.

 

 

[bankz5152]

I thought the scope rails where pritty low profile? Only pokes out around 3mm - 4mm hmm ill have a look at one.

 

I didnt even think of the clearance but thats a big +

[BFOUR]

Yeah with the Glock frame youve got the slector switch too so that throws it off a bit. Doesnt sound like much but it turned out to be a pain.

[bankz5152]

Well considering its guna be very difficult to have a working selector i was thinking about 'fixing' it in to full auto.

 

and using this Scope Mount

[Grantfallen]

I'm sure somebody was supposed to be releasing a Kriss AEG a couple of years ago.

 

But I haven't heard anything about that since, it's always an SMG that I've liked the look of, so good luck with this, I hope that it works out for you.

[ED-SKaR]

Right then, the fine detail of shortstroking.

 

How to:

There are several ways to short stroke a GBB pistol, the idea is that you change something so that the gun stops recoiling at a set point, preventing it from full travel. There are springs that you can buy that will "coilbind" before the slide has fully traveled. Coilbinding means that each coil of the spring touches the next and this makes the spring a solid piece of metal. Other ways include putting pieces of metal in the gun a specific points so that the slide hits them and stops, be carefull about this as you can damage your gun if you do that wrong.

 

How far:

There are two important things that need to happen during the cycle of the slide. With most GBB pistols they happen towards the beggining or the middle of the slide travel so you can short stroke it quite far. You need to check your gun specifically to ensure that both things happen.

 

1. vave knocker release must trip(allways happens after the hammer is locked)

2. cylinder must come far enough back to load the next BB.

 

1. The valve knocker on most GBBs is held down even when the hammer is not pushing it anymore. There will be a ponit where the slide trips the release for it and it is this point that the gas stops flowing. If you shortstroke it so far that this dosen't trip then your gun will be pushing the slide back when the slide cannot move.

You should be able to find the trip by taking the slide off of your gun and dry firing. Pull back the hammer and you will see the valve knocker still visible, there are two or three buttons inside the frame of the gun that poke up into the slide. Push each of them until the valve knocker clicks out of view.

Find the track inside the slide that corresponds to the button and work out at what point it trips. The slide MUST travel FURTHER than this point.

 

2. This normally happens once you have the valve knocker release done, but you should allways check to make sure. Put a mag in the gun and pull back the slide so that the nozzle sits just behind the BBs in the mag. You will need the slide to move FURTHER than this as when the gun fires the nozzle stays still when the slide moves around it, then after the gas stops flowing it springs back. YOU NEED TO LEAVE ENOUGH ROOM FOR THE CLYINDER TO SPRING BACK BEFORE THE BB IS LOADED.

 

Other mods

As real guns cannot be short stroked like this, the slide lock will not be in the right place anymore. Depending on your gun you may want to cut a new slide lock into the slide further foreward than the origonal. Line it up with where your shortstroking ends.

[bankz5152]

I think i get what your saying. So the recoil spring must have much tighter coils in order to short stroke it? Would the spring i mentioned above do this?

 

 

Madbull was meant to make a GBB version of this back in 2008. They had made a prototype and had it on display at the 08 Shot Show, but since then nothing at all.

[ED-SKaR]

I think i get what your saying. So the recoil spring must have much tighter coils in order to short stroke it? Would the spring i mentioned above do this?

 

If its advertised as a shortstroking spring for the right gun then yes it will work. I am just wondering by how much it will short stroke it, wether it will be short enough.

[BFOUR]

Banks I think Im going to try this again. Maybe we can team it up and see what we can help each other with? Although I wont be making an exact replica. I dont ahve the tools to do that but Im going for as close as possible. Bankz do you hae plastic sheets for your body? Let me know I have a good source. I order from them all the time for hobby plastics.

[bankz5152]

PM'd you aswell. Im happy to work together with you, im sure ill need help along the line.

 

After thinking today I think the main problems will be -

 

Trigger Mechanism - I was going to use a trigger bar similar to that inside a P90

Glock security within the frame - Could the recoil shake it 'loose'?

Slide recoil - Without having the frame made i cant tell if I have enough space for it to blow back

[BFOUR]

I was thinking a trigger bar too. I just dont want it to be so big it changes any shape of the outer body. its going to have to run down one side or both of the glocks slide. The slide when locked back is only about 1 1/2 from the dovetail on the glock frame. If you have 2 inches between the dovetail and frame yourll be fine.

[bankz5152]

That's good to know about the slide, may not have to short stroke it.

 

As for the trigger bar I was thinking deffinatley both sides, just for reliabillity and trigger response again not changing the outer shape

[BFOUR]

The build material is going to be ABS sheeting. I have more 1.5mm than I do 2.5. I may be able to get away with the 2.5 but Im going to have to make sure I dont mess anything up. Bankz are you familiar with plastic welding?

 

THe spine of the project will be a 1inch aluminum square bar. Pictured below. This is the only length I have left so I just though it up to show as an example I iwll be grabbing some more today. It comes in yard 1 yard length at lowes.

 

 

[ratboy44]

would something like this FAB defence KPOS not help?

 

http://www.fab-defense.com/en/weapon-glock/id-206/pistol-to-pdw-convesrsion.html