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TDI Kriss Build


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Yes but not the Glock just the scope rail. Although I could bolt it on...


Hopefully mine be able to be dissasembled into 2 parts aswell. Upper reciever including the trigger peice, lower reciever with the Glock inside.


Was going to do it using some body pins, possibly G36 body pins if they are long enough if not ill use some allen bolts. The only difficulty would be having a pin that can be easily removed from the trigger allowing complete removal of the to recievers.


They way I see it at the moment will be rather lengthy for dissasemble.


- Remove bottom RIS

- Remove trigger bar

- Remove Trigger pin

- Unscrew Allen bolts

- Unscrew Scope Rail Grub screws

- Split Recievers

- Pull Glock out


It may not work that easily but im hoping to rarley have to dissasemble it. My old Glocks ran 5K + rounds

without any major maintenance.


Also the silver peice ive sanded off the slide is where im going to mount the charging handle.

Are you going to cut the back of the pistol grip off? Is that even necessary?



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Sadly bankz Ive halted this project for another Ive wanted to do for so long. Now that I ahve the right building materials and tools Ill be tackeling it. If you need anything though post it up or pm me.

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Sad to hear BFOUR, thanks for the offer ill probably take you up on it.


Small update got a pistol grip today Magpul MOE which seems nice and will fit well. Im just waiting on some Dremel peices then I can cut out the trigger and trigger block which is good.


Once thats all done ill be epoxying the Glock to the spine and will install the trigger mechanism.

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Small productions update -


Old trigger and new design, made from Aluminium flat bar -



'Fitted' into grip -



Mock Up -




The aluminium sheeting should arrive Monday which means I may be able to start on the actual trigger mechanism but that is unlikly as im going away on the 15th.


However that said I should be able to get the pistol grip good and ready for final mounting and have the trigger block & spring installed before i go.

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wel i need specs

i can find like rough measurements indeed by googleityoumoron

You'd be hard pressed to find detailed specs on any gun for the simple reason that the original makers want to protect their products. Most scratch builders are happy with length and height and calculate the rest off the cleanest printout they could find. Dobey uses specialized software though that does everything automatically, might want to ask him about it.



About making the handle reciprocating (real one doesn't), you might want to consider how heavy the charging handle will be. The KSC Glocks use a fairly light slide and adding weight to it may affect rate of fire if not its operation altogether.

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  • 2 weeks later...

you could simply use the system of the FPG for a stationary bolt. Or if you want a moving bolt and run into a problem like renegadecow stated, you *could* drill holes / skeletise the slide to make it lighter, than weld on the handle.

Also, you wouldn't need the original trigger. you could just extend the triggerbar backwards ( keep the spring ).


Think about the idea and layout of a FPG, you could use quite some elements from it. Like the slide moving backwards into the stock, the said charging bolt.

Also, just little elements: the safety can block the triggerbar. The sights are MP7 sights. But these are things you probably already know.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Im back from holiday! And started some work.


As stated above ive removed the trigger and extended the trigger bar. Ive also cut the extended trigger bar out of aluminium which Im yet to install and test but looks hopeful.


I also redesigned the charging handle to be a little more like the KRISS although still blows back.


Shaped like an L with a small spring insde. So when i want to rack the slide it pulls out and back with ease then when released folds forward so it doesnt get in the way or have any chance of damage.


Considering the bolt is going to be a small peice of Aluminium is swiss cheesing the slide really nessicary?



Once I obtain some expoxy putty the Glock & grip with be fitted and will be ready for the first major test :D


Although annoyingly Im randomly leaving the country again next week so ill get as much done as I can before I go.




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Ill get some more pics up soon, maybe a video :D when that magazines arrive!


Ive got the trigger bar installed and to my happiness it works! very well infact. Just worried it wont be able to stand up to the full auto goodness.


Production Pics!


Total View -



Close up -



I now actually have the grip & glock fully secured to the spine, will do a fireing test when its all dry!


Another little thing i did was cut a slot into the fire selector so with the use of a screw driver I can change from auto to semi. Ill hide the hole in the body work with a fake 'body pin'. Not ideal but it should work.


Next up the most difficult peice... Moulding the ABS to create the body and actually make it look like a Kriss.


I feel the next big hurdle will be fitting the stock so its secure, im not entirly sure how to go about this bit, well to have it folding anyway.

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More production pics! Woo Its actually starting to look like a Kriss!


Full View -



Glock Close up -



Trigger Close up -




Video of the trigger action -


I would edit but i have no idea how. The interesting bits are the first couple seconds and the last.




I would edit but i have no idea how. The interesting bits are the first couple seconds and the last.


EDIT - P.S I know the trigger guard is a bit 'off' ive just fixed it, its now square like the Kriss should be.

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Cheers man, all thanks to lone_bullet! Fitted the cocking bolt today aswell. Looks good.


Yer it well be hard making it look good. I was planning on using one peice of ABS moulded over the upper reciever which should work. Then 2 - 3 peices for the lower reciever.


I already know when its finished it will look 'off' but as I said it wasnt going to be exact. Mainly the cocking lever will be much further back..

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Ahh that actually sounds a bit better, would aslo give me sharper corners.


Its really nice being able to sit down, rack the bolt and pull the trigger! and it works!!


My only worry at this point is severe amounts of dust, debris etc getting inside the Glock.

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Hey guys,


Got one question.


What thickness ABS Should i use? I was thinking 1.5mm as it would be easiest to heat mould although is it too thin? would it make it brittle.


Or the 2.5mm harder to mould but tougher. or bang in the middle 2mm.


Im asking as ive never really worked with ABS from scratch before just Kydex & Aluminium

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2.0 is usually my happy medium for 2 reasons. 1, 1.5 is kinda thin for heating up, like I said it tends to bow. With 2.0 its a little nore rigid and tends to heat evenly. 2, its just thick enough for welding, when you weld you always initially take away material fromt he joint. Youll fill that in with strips of plastic like tig welding but while youre doing that you dont want the pieces to break apart.


Ive done plenty of welding with 1.5 its just a little slower process.

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Cheers B4 Ive got a load of black 2mm ABS on the way :D Body work will start soon!


Ive also decided to modify the slide release so it extends outward, i may try to mod it so it works like the real Kriss bolt release.


And heres somthing wonderful, a firing test!


Full Auto Firing -



Slide Lock -



I am very happy with this so far. I just hope my body work will be just as good :P

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