BFOUR Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Renegade what kind of tools are you working with? Your pieces are so finely cut and molded. I love watching your guns come together. I'm not into the SKS personally but you're doing an awesome job as always. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Just the tools mentioned above. Now, don't think I just start hitting the plastic with the power tools and out they come, maybe with a mill you could get the detail in one go. But how I do it, the power tools do the rough cut then I use hand tools for fine details. Link to post Share on other sites
BFOUR Posted October 14, 2010 Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Whoops I didnt see those pics when I posted. Thanks. Ive been doing the same on my current project (pp-2000) Been cutting out the reciever shapes with a scroll saw then hand sanding and scoring where I need to. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 The trouble with power tools and plastic is that the plastic can often melt due to the heat produced. You need to use as slow a speed as possible, and use very light pressure on any tools. For instance, you'll find that most Dremel type tools spin at much too high a speed for working on plastics. The slowest setting on mine is 10000rpm, and most plastics melt to the drill bit when you try to drill them with it, unless you do just a mm or so at a time, and cool the drill bit in water between goes. A hand drill is invaluable when working plastics, or a power drill with wide-range variable speed. It's the same with sanding discs/drums/flap-wheels. Too high a speed will cause the plastic to melt and clog the abrasive surface. One of the best finishing tools is simply a sharp blade (e.g. Stanley Knife blade) dragged across the surface at 90° to the direction of movement. It gives a very smooth finish. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Partly why I favor PVC. It has a much higher melting point than ABS but still relatively as strong. I can hit it with a grinder at 15,000 rpm or even the router at 25,000 and it still won't turn to mush. You have to take care of respiratory protection though as it produces a very fine powder this way. Link to post Share on other sites
zentaurus Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 One of the best finishing tools is simply a sharp blade (e.g. Stanley Knife blade) dragged across the surface at 90° to the direction of movement. It gives a very smooth finish. a luthier (guitar maker), btw, gets very smooth surface finishing that way too. the tool used, however is a knife-edged flexible scraper Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 Yes, it works pretty well on most woods too. I do a lot of finishing with a hand-held blade when I'm turning plastic parts on the lathe. Link to post Share on other sites
Ferrarilove1 Posted October 16, 2010 Report Share Posted October 16, 2010 a luthier (guitar maker), btw, gets very smooth surface finishing that way too. the tool used, however is a knife-edged flexible scraper The tool your thinking of is a plane. Link to post Share on other sites
zentaurus Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 The tool your thinking of is a plane. thanks for that. guess i've always thought of that tool installed in a thingamajig and not manipulated with two bare hands Link to post Share on other sites
BFOUR Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 So pulled a renagadecow and made a pvc sheet tonight. Used mostly a heat gun then finished off in the oven real quick. Came out good for a first try. Not perfectly flat but it works for what I need. I flatten it more when its in the smaller pieces. Cant wait for an update renegade. Link to post Share on other sites
Azulsky Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 You can just buy the PVC in sheet form from McMaster Carr Looking good renegade cow, do get over that flu soon though. Link to post Share on other sites
BFOUR Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 For $20 a sheet plus shipping. Not worth it for me. I rather take a $2.50 piece of tubing and make it myself. Thanks for the recommendation though. Checked out their site, they've got a lot of stuff that would prove useful. Link to post Share on other sites
Burke Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Bfour, you using standard schedule 40 white pvc? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 Thanks guys! Well, the flu and the neighbors complaining about the noise. Have to move my work station indoors during the following week so I've got some thinking time on my hands. What I'm stuck at now is deciding if I should butcher the M14 aluminum outer barrel I have now, or try and find a suitable steel pipe (my original intended 1/2" conduit pipe actually measures larger so I can't use it) and sell the M14 barrel assembly to get some cash back. @BFOUR on heating PVC, make sure you don't burn the stuff because the released chlorine gas is kinda harmful. Try PMing Meathead on tips in using an electric stove as he's worked out a routine for it. I use an open top gas stove myself only because it allows me to do large sheets (flattened by segment). Link to post Share on other sites
Burke Posted October 17, 2010 Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 renegadecow, i think ive asked before but you used industrail strength super glue correct? How come you dont use pvc cement? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2010 The only PVC cement I've gotten my hands on isn't strong at all, takes a while to cure and requires large surface areas to be anywhere near useful. The super glue I use makes the bond tougher than the material itself. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Not so necropost! Started work on my SKS again. Decided to just use the M14 outer barrel and mounted it on. Also made the rear sight block. Dropped the rear sight though and the adjuster broke. Now I have an excuse to buy a rs sks leaf sight ! Link to post Share on other sites
vorgaphe Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 YAY another Renegade Cow project! Link to post Share on other sites
BigAl Posted December 21, 2010 Report Share Posted December 21, 2010 Lookin good. Link to post Share on other sites
zentaurus Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 @burke: the pvc adhesive we have here is not as effective as super glue. probly off-spec. works well with with ABS plastic though, as docv said (thanks for that tip, doc ) have even be used to "weld" aluminum Link to post Share on other sites
Schultz98 Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 again looking great man Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted December 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 Thanks! Got more work in. Gas block, tube and part of the handguard rear cap. The tube itself is too thin as this is only the main support, will be building up the diameter with another tube on the part that won't be covered with wood. Link to post Share on other sites
Kenworth W900 Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Epic. Link to post Share on other sites
Retro-Cow Posted December 24, 2010 Report Share Posted December 24, 2010 Looks amazing as always! I'm super excited to see this finished. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Right, back to work. Will be a slow start though. Despite having my arms conditioned by intense labor for years, all it takes is 48 hours of Minecraft to get me debilitated (both physically and mentally). Was worried sick that I'd developed CTS (which requires surgery to fix) but it turns out I only have a compressed ulnar nerve so all I need is to lay off the damn games. Had to redo the handguard end caps as I had absentmindedly patterned the first attempt to an AK, which were too big by about 1/3 the size. Also started work on the front sight assembly with the sleeve already glued in place. Link to post Share on other sites
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