renegadecow Posted August 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 They don't send restricted parts, that's why they're restricted. But the bolt carrier, butt plate and bayonet are not restricted items for the SKS, but either way I'm not really getting them anymore just the same. For reference sake, I think only the barrel and receiver of the SKS is restricted while everything else is ok to ship out. Other than legality, the bigger hindrance to getting parts from the US is shipping. While a wood parts kit for an SKS (not that it may even fit) only costs as low as $25 in some places, shipping it would cost over $100. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 I've partially scaled up the SKS images already and I'm quite shocked at how the dimensions came up. I'm still double checking all parameters but it turns out the SKS is an eensy weapon and almost the size of an M1 carbine (which is tiny for those who can't relate, and why it's called an SKS "carbine" *facepalm*). But as from my initial render, the gearbox does indeed fit, and like my early prediction, the hop, barrel and shot shell barely make it. The gearbox has to lay flat and in line with the barrel to fit which means I'll need to employ a different hop up (I'm thinking modified AK). Then the shell moves the whole assembly forward so I'd need to extend the nozzle by a fair amount (TM sopmod nozzle! Simples!). After I finalize all dimensions, I should be able to start making the receiver within the week. Link to post Share on other sites
jkool725 Posted September 29, 2010 Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 It looks like the top of the grip area just above the motor will be pretty thin and could break. I would think about "reinforcing" it with some fiberglass. My .02 cents. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted September 29, 2010 Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 As long as there's enough material below and to the sides of the motor, it should be fine. The only real 'risk' is that you'll break through whilst shaping/sanding that area. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 29, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2010 I took the pic at a slight angle so it makes the top part of the grip slimmer than it is. But it is kinda thin (4mm) anyway so I'll probably run the wires at the bottom of the grip where there's more room and grind off the wire tabs on the motor cage just to gain a little more space for the wood. That'll give me an extra 3mm. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Got to start on the receiver, though not much. I had to spend most of the morning buying more materials as my stock of large pipes had run out. Instead of the thin pvc plus sheet metal cladding I originally intended, I figured just using thick PVC will do. Receiver material is 4mm thick. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Got pretty excited with how the receiver is turning out so I just have to share. Will update less often from now, makes me look like I'm bored out of my wits. edit: Thanks to the great macro mode on my new cam, you can now see the layers of PVC and how I compose parts together. Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 KHL31: Thats awesome work there! There is the SKK : Link to post Share on other sites
Yuri Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Can you describe the method you use to shape the plastic? How do you get the sides flat and running paraller? Will you be doing the stock out of plywood or solid? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 @Yuri: Even though I make my sheet from tube pvc, the wall thickness is relatively uniform to begin with. So how flat a piece depends on the quality of what you flatten it with. I use two pieces of plywood that I've sanded smooth and make sure is free of any debris before pressing as those would be imprinted on the pvc being flattened. I just stand on the rig and while the hot plastic is malleable, my weight isn't enough to squish it to the point that some areas become thinner than others. That's as far as making sheet go. To make large blocks or whatnot, I layer the pvc and laminate it like plywood then attack it with whatever shaping/cutting tool I need. For the stock, I'm leaning towards laminated just because it looks better. @3vi1-D4n: Thanks, but my google-fu fails to unearth what an SKK is. Is that yours in the pic? It looks RS too judging from the bolt. Link to post Share on other sites
BFOUR Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 renegade I wish youd make a video of you flattening some PVC id like to see exactly how its done. I do alot of plastic work/welding but i use sheets at thin as .12" Id love to start working with some thicker materials. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Looking good as usual RC. You do love your PVC don't you Link to post Share on other sites
spetsnazdave87 Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 His wardrobe must be quite a sight... Link to post Share on other sites
Burke Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Renegadecow, keep updating I love watching your progress. Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 The SKK is known as SKS-D as well. Use "Norinco SKS-D" as keywords in google and go images. Its an SKS with the ability to take AK mags. Link to post Share on other sites
ninja master of coffee Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Looking awesome, would you be able to put up plans for it once you've finished? Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 I'll try, but can only really promise side view diagrams of the major components. I'm not an engineer so I don't really know how to map the other dimensions save for copying how RS gun blueprints are made. As it is, I work with a side view diagram (the scaled sketch I made out in chip board) for reference while the other dimensions are floating about in my head. That said, I'll be on my butt for the next few days. Caught the flu and at the same time my dad decides to adopt an abandoned 2-week old kitty in our garden and guess who has to do all the dirty work. When I explained to him that kittens that age can't poop on their own and have to be "stimulated", I don't know if the look on his face was of disgust or wonder how exactly I came about that sort of information (which is from reading Battle Royale!). Link to post Share on other sites
ninja master of coffee Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Ah fair enough, I'd guess most of the width measurments are mainly dictated to allow the gearbox, etc, to fit? Good luck with the cat, apparently they really missed out some stuff in battle royale film... Cheers, Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 ... kittens that age can't poop on their own and have to be "stimulated"... That's correct. The Mother cat has to lick their a##e to make them go...good luck with that one mate I'm getting withdrawal symptoms already, get shaping that wood ASAP. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 The Mother cat has to lick their a##e to make them go AND eat whatever comes out. I suppose it's not so disgusting if you consider that the milk the kitten eats comes from the mom anyway. Never really liked cats, I'm a dog person myself. Missing my old dachshund already, at least he cleans up after himself: eats own poop. That aside, made some progress. Made the top cover, which actually serves as the rail guide for the bolt and cannot function without it (unlike an AK without the dust cover). It's PVC as usual, but I covered it up in chromed steel pipe. The back is just a flattened piece of the same pipe and stuck on. What's annoying was grinding the cladded metal to shape. If I ground it too long and got too hot, it would unset the glue and come flying off. Link to post Share on other sites
Burke Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 I cant get over your skillz. I wish I had a 10th of them.... Link to post Share on other sites
MotoSam Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 Could you do a thread just showcasing your tools sometime? It would be great to see what is needed. I plan to buy some abs sheeting online to build some furniture or receivers (I havn't quite decided) and would love to know what I'd need to work it like you do. I have done some very basic stuff in the past but not to your level of skill. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 @MotoSam I don't think I'll need a whole new thread just for that. Will take pictures of the stuff I use (and will be using for the woodwork to come) in the morning. Should fit in one post since I don't use a whole lot of tools. Started working on the bolt carrier, should be done by tomorrow. I know I should be resting having the flu and all, but watching gundam reruns and cleaning up after the kitten gets boring real quick. edit: @Burke Thanks! Though I hope you realize I had to start from nothing too. While some people might have the knack of things outright, it still takes a lot of time and practice (and research) to hone any skill for that matter. Appreciating this is why I'm rather ###### at how some people poorly treat builders with less than spectacular results (like in Typewriters case). Link to post Share on other sites
MotoSam Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 This stuff just looks so neatly made, I have ideas for simple boxed up stocks for bullpups and so on that I would love to approach, for years I was a bodger so actual research, preparation and patience could maybe produce decent results. Your work is inspiring, I remember the hera glock in a box and that concept could work on any gun for unique results. Keep up the good work! This sks is very exciting to watch progress! Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2010 Here are the power tools. From upper left corner, clockwise: jigsaw, angle grinder, router, drill. The jigsaw just helps cutting stuff easier with interchangeable blades. The angle grinder I only came to use after my dremel clone broke. Thing is I always used to use my dremel for most anything especially with grinding using the drum sanding bit. I learned however that if you attach a grinding disc to the grinder and sandwich a layer of sandpaper on top, it makes for quicker work. The only danger is getting friction burns on your finger tips if your hand slips and a disc spinning at 15,000 in front of you is scary at the start. I also use a smaller angle grinder (not in pic) that can be held with one hand and use it for more delicate details. The router is the most expensive piece of equipment I have and is used for gutting wood mainly. The drill speaks for itself, but you could do wonders with a drill press. What I don't understand is why I've never bought one myself considering they're pretty cheap (about $100 for the china ones). Not in the pic are a power planer to trim down planks of wood and a power sander. For the hand tools I didn't bother taking a pic but I'll list them just the same: wood saw, hack saw, coping saw, hand planer, chisels, cutter (or very sharp knife), files, sandpaper. Often I'd also make improvised tools like sanding blocks which is a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a hard object to shape whatever it is I need at hand. Now for the pics of the finished bolt carrier And I decided to open up the gearbox since I had a few issues with it, mainly it had a slight bend on one side of the gearbox shell! I found a lump of metal on the inside, a casting defect that the factory didn't mind grinding down. Ground that off, radiused the cylinder window and lightly hammered the gearbox shell back straight but cracked the upper part of the gearbox in the process. The material at the top was paper thin although it doesn't take much stress at that area. But still, literally paper thin, that's China QC for me. Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.