Jump to content

Dead wiring after Deans swap or bad motor or short?


tr1gg3r_h4ppy

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

 

I did some work on my CA m15 and I installed an m120 spring new madbul 3 in 1 hopup and deans plugs. When I got the mech box back together I plugged in the battery and pulled the trigger, it clicked and the piston tried to inch back but couldn't. After a few pulls on semi I clicked it to auto and it did the same thing, then the gun just stopped clicking, no cause for concern yet. so I went back home and wired my charger for deans plugs. Charged the battery and used an electric meter on both, the charger was ticking like it should the battery shot off the scale like it should. (I may have sparked the contacts during the installation of the deans a little bit, plus I suck at soldering) So I figured the readings were fine and plugged the gun back in after charging for an hour or two, pulled the trigger... no sound, no motor trying to cycle. So I took the gun apart found no wiring inconsistency so I cracked the box found my cylinder head was broken and replaced it, three frustrating hours later the box is back (I had to do some forcing which scared me, the box didnt want to get back together despite the correct positioning of everything, it seemed it was pivoting around the middle alot.) The trigger kept popping out and I would reassemble it and make sure the trigger contacts would make contact. After closing the mech I wired the stock CA motor the wires and plugged in the deans, pulled the trigger expecting the motor to turn, nothing happened, so I switched it out with a eg 1000, still no connection. I checked the fuse and it's intact, I metered the mini tamiya connectors and it wont budge a bit. So I am out of ideas, what could the problem be?

 

To paraphrase,

-replaced and solderd battery, gun and charger with deans, (may have accidentally sparked the battery however its still metering that it has a strong charge)

-small motor clicks and piston lurches but no cycling,

-checked fuse

-metered at the charger to make sure it was charging

-metered at the mini tamiya no charge

-tried a stock ca motor and eg1000 no pull

 

Thanks,

Brett

Link to post
Share on other sites

So, you get a voltage reading when you test the battery connectors, but none at the mini deans- where abouts is the mini deans located in the circuit ( between the trigger and motor Im guessing, so much still to learn... )?

 

Pull the trigger and check for voltage at the motor where the wires meet the can ( assuming that the wires are soldered onto little tabs like r/c motors )- if you get a reading now then you have either a dead or stalled motor. If you get no reading at the motor then its a problem with the trigger contacts most likely- just work your way along the circuit until you find the point at which you lose power, then go from there/ hit it with a hammer.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well when the mini tamiya connector is removed from the gearbox and the battery connected it didn't give a reading, however after removing the fuse and direct wiring I'm back to getting the click even though the fuse seems to be perfectly intact. I popped the mb again to see if it was frozen, I reshimmed and the gears spin great without the anti-reversal latch however with it in the only gear that will easily spin is the bevel.

 

However when I removed the fuse, the Tamiya connector to the mb got hot, not concerningly so but so did the fuse box and it just clicked a little. I can try to make a video outlining all the problems and see if I can't give more specific information!

 

Thanks for the help,

Brett

Link to post
Share on other sites

questions:

 

Doest he motor spin freely when you hold it in your hand(outside of the GB)?

 

How do the contacts on the selector plate look?

 

did you solder the correct wires to the correct contacts(+ to + and - to -)

Link to post
Share on other sites

questions:

 

Doest he motor spin freely when you hold it in your hand(outside of the GB)?

 

How do the contacts on the selector plate look?

 

did you solder the correct wires to the correct contacts(+ to + and - to -)

 

 

I'm positive that I got the correct wires so long as red is positive and black is negative.

 

I can get the motor to pulse on for a short second but then it refuses to do anymore.

 

I'm not sure how to selector plate contacts look I can have pictures of them, the trigger contact seems pretty scarred but I can get that part to slide into the seemingly good copper.

 

 

Thanks so much!

Trigger

 

 

 

 

 

 

PART 2

 

 

 

Here's a couple up close pictures of the contacts.

DSCN0246

DSCN0247

Link to post
Share on other sites

well, the motor should be able to be to spin freely without any stoppages or anything like that. See if you can plug it into that other unopned gearbox you have infront of you and see if its working with that one. If its not then its the motor. If it is then i would suspect it would be burnt contacts. Maybe the trigger mech is able to draw some power when you intially pull the trigger at the tip on the contacts, It may be so worn out that when it enters deeper into the trigger mech the contacts may not be too conductive anymore which gives you that result. It does look like there is alot of carbon build up, to get rid of it try and lightly sand it and see if that does any good. Also check the copper on the selector plate on the outside of the gearbox shell.

Link to post
Share on other sites

My guess is that you messed up the positive and negative wire when you soldered them to the dean plug, this happens alot (atleast with me) and creates the problem you are describing

 

I know you may think that you already have tried this but just do it again please, because in ten years i have never seen a trigger contact so fouled up that it will not fire or act as you describe it

Link to post
Share on other sites

Even it the Deans is wired backwards the motor should run out of the mechbox.

 

Test the continuity of the wiring. If that is okay, then your motor is dead.

It's fairly common for CA's motors to ###### out. I've seen brand new CA guns with motors that were DOA.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey all!

 

Sorry about the long time on reply... For my sanity I let the gun take a time out, so I went back and resoldered eveerrrryttthinnng. Turns out that wasn't the issue... A small fleeting thought, ( similar to a small lark) fluttered across the back of my mind, the motor spins shortly but then cuts out, motors tend to create some torque and that would have torqued something but what... AHA THE MOTOR CLIP!!! Sure enough, the motor clip from the wiring harness was completely broken in two. I direct wired the motor with some steel wire and vroooom it spins! Problem found... Now, how do I fix a broken motor clip should I directly solder the motor wires to the contacts or should i try to solder the piece itself back on...?

 

PS. Baaah I hate v2, soldering seems rather inconvenient,

 

Thanks,

Brett

Link to post
Share on other sites

Now my gearbox is bound it seems, no matter how I put it back together I cannot get a cycle out of it, its the usual click, piston ticks and then wont move wires and motor gets hot. What could be the culprit on this?

 

if its not the spring then maybe check your motor height, it may be way too high causing it to lock up

Link to post
Share on other sites

I say it is your spring. No offense but CA is #### and doubtfully can take an m120 (My vfc gearbox had a hard time.) . See if it will work with the old spring. If you do want the m120 that bad then get a G&P m140 or m160 torque up motor.

 

Hmm. food for thought, I have an EG 1000 I could try it with and if all else fails I have a marui v2 gearbox shell and might be able to swap all the parts into it.

 

 

if its not the spring then maybe check your motor height, it may be way too high causing it to lock up

 

Spring seems straight enough but I tried all sorts of motor height, the pistol grip has hardly any room and the motor requires considerable pressure to push in.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I say it is your spring. No offense but CA is #### and doubtfully can take an m120 (My vfc gearbox had a hard time.) . See if it will work with the old spring. If you do want the m120 that bad then get a G&P m140 or m160 torque up motor.

 

Hmm. food for thought, I have an EG 1000 I could try it with and if all else fails I have a marui v2 gearbox shell and might be able to swap all the parts into it.

 

 

if its not the spring then maybe check your motor height, it may be way too high causing it to lock up

 

Spring seems straight enough but I tried all sorts of motor height, the pistol grip has hardly any room and the motor requires considerable pressure to push in.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Could do what I am currently doing and lose the spade connectors and attach the wires directly under the 2 screws. I tend to sandwich mine below the 2 plates then secure them with the screw. I had to do it because my spade connectors broke off, but I now get a better rof without them.

 

Whatever you do though, DON'T drop one of the screws into the motor, just loosen them without removing them. I've busted 2 motors so far doing that, because the motors are nigh on impossible to take appart and the magnets are strong enough to trap the screw for good :(

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.