Element Functional AN/PEQ-16A Mini, M3X, and Dual Swtich

[Luis21]

Very nice work man, enjoyed reading it. Got myself an M3X + switch too! Thanks again!

 

Thank you sir, I appreciate it.

 

Enjoy your SU-233!

 

-Luis

[ericfine50]

http://www.ebairsoft.com/element-ex179-advanced-illuminator-combo-p-3564.html - Now coming as a combo kit

[KWP]

Here's my video of the fully functional version with Q3 LED, red laser pointer, blue LED and IR LED:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_1dhbC_BNI

[ericfine50]

Nice video.

Did you mod that box, or are those the LEDs that are standard with the PEQ?

Thanks

Eric

[Guest]

[The Crunchy Bunny]

Hmmmm.... I wonder if the switch would work with an Element Scout light???????

[tangloppen]

No. The switch on the PEQ light is a copy of Insights, and the scoutlights is a copy of Surefires, witch is threaded and screws in to the flashlight.

[jdizzle921]

You can replace the switch wire from your Element pressure pad with the switch wire from the SF clone. It's a lot easier to do with the DPS as opposed to the single switch though.

[uscmCorps]

You can replace the switch wire from your Element pressure pad with the switch wire from the SF clone. It's a lot easier to do with the DPS as opposed to the single switch though.

Wish I knew how to do that. I've tried rewiring those mini plugs before but have never gotten them to work right. LMK if you're offering electrician services.

[jdizzle921]

I'll see if I can get a guide made. I should have some free time over the holiday to make one up for you guys.

 

Or if you don't trust your soldering/tinkering skills, just shoot me a PM. I can help ya'.

Edited December 4, 2010 by jdizzle921

[kojak]

Has anyone dismantled their PEQ-16A? I was hoping to stuff a green laser in mine, but couldn't see a way to get the part with the diode out without getting violent.

[NonEx]

Stupid question, but why would one want/need both the PEQ LED light and the M3X light on the same weapons system ? They seemed equally bright ?

[Shift]

I think it's just to mimic real steel. You often see a troops/ SOF with a PEQ in tandem with a flash light. I think it has something to do with leaving the PEQ on IR modes and using the torch for visible light. But because these replicas don't function as such, it's just for show.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong.

[NonEx]

Well, FYI this review sold it for me. I was looking for a PEQ box just for show and ended up wanting the whole kit. Sadly the bundle was out of stock everywhere so ended up buying all the parts seperatly at an insanly higher price. 45 USD for the PEQ, 40 USD for the M3X and 12 USD for the switch, a total of 97 USD vs. the 80 ish for the bundle :-(

Oh well, I will soon have a kick *albatross* looking MAGPUL:ed Block II-ish M4 :-D

Edited January 2, 2012 by NonEx

[NonEx]

Mweh... got my PEQ and M3X today. They are both awesome but I have a huge problem with the battery seating in the PEQ unit. The functions power keep dissapearing and I then have to give the unit a good slap in order to get it functioning again. I usually have to hold it with the lights downwards and slap it in the same direction, so I guess it's some sort of connection that's loose. I opened it up at the back but I can't see any obvious problems. The batteries also seem to seat properly when installed. This unit wins the award for most retarded battery installation and removal in the history of electronics...

 

Any advice ?

 

Oh and the M3X rail attachment clamp is also very poorly designed as shown in the review here. I tried bending the clamp to give more pressure but that failed misserably, so, I took that off and because my new MadBull Daniel Defense RIS II MK18 9.5" has out of spec rails which are slightly fatter than normal I could just keep it on there with passive retention. Now to figure out how to mount XTM panels on a rail that is out of spec ...

Edited January 5, 2012 by NonEx

[NonEx]

OK guys I figured out what was wrong, posting solution in case anyone gets a dud like I did.

At first I thought the second outer battery was not contacting the inner contact panel with enough force making it glitch, so I added in a spacer of rolled up tin foil between that battery and the cap... Not too smart, because as I screwed in the cap, the tin foil spacer was too big, and as I screwed the cap on further the whole cap housing came out.

 

However, this revealed the actual issue. I had figured out that if I pressed on the battery cap with force the lights would work. There is a contact solder point under the rim of the battery cap housing (brass colored part) which the rim of the battery cap is suposed to make contact with in order to close the circuit (I am a complete knobb when it comes to electronics but this is what I figured). So I just put a tiny piece of tin foil around the battery cap housing rim to make sure they made contact and superglued it into place. An alternative would to just add some more solder but I do not have or know how to do that. So this will work for now;

 

 

There is the solder contact point coming off of the back plates contact plate for the second, innner battery. This needs to make contact with the battery cap rim in order to close the circuit in the cap when it contacts the outer battery pole.

 

 

And there is my solution, red illustrates where it does not connect with the solder point and green where it makes contact now with added tin foil.

 

Hope that helps and if I have any of this electronics or circuit stuff wrong feel free to correct me.

 

Oh, by the way, if you run into this and don't feel like ripping out the battery cap housing you can just unscrew the 4 screws on the back panel and take that off, just be careful when reinstalling, I managed to strip one of the screw housings as those are directly in the plastic body.