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I only pack them about half the time and hardly ever use them (unless I stuff one in a friend's dump pouch on the walk back). I've drilled small holes in the aluminum cylinder; speeds up the timer to about two seconds.

 

They still suck (lots of duds, needle dulls quickly, lower orange cap detaches from the body and gets lost, etc.), but is there an alternative?

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How reliable are they. Do they work better if you drill the hole in it?

 

Not very, but you can improve reliability by using Teflon tape on the threads of your plastic shells, and making certain that the C02 cylinder is pierced before you toss it. Those are your two basic reasons for no bang. I leave the pins off of mine, pull the striker back with a finger and let it snap; some people bang it on something solid.

 

Drilling a (very small) hole just speeds up the "fuse", proceed with caution.

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  • 2 months later...

We still use these fairly often, so when a new version is released I have to try it out:

 

IMG_20120202_205910.jpg

 

 

The reduction in size is nice, and they've done away with the mostly unnecessary spoon. I'm not sure if I'll ever use the tripwire function, but it's nice to have I guess.

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Our team tech did some mods on most of ours and greatly increased reliability. But like you said, the needle still gets dull and eventually I lost 2/3 of my modded ones so I'm back to square one.

 

These days, I rarely even bother to arm them. Often don't need to... throw one into a room and just charge right in behind it, shooting the fleeing enemy in their backs.

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Mine have a dime under the CO2 caplet, a hole drilled in the cylinder, and Teflon tape on the threads of all my shells; I leave the pin off with the hammer resting on the striker and just bash it on a rock or a wall before I toss. 0% failure rate with that method, though I do wish I had drilled a slightly smaller hole since it goes off rather quickly.

 

The new grenade comes with a hole already drilled in the bottom cap of the cylinder.

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Well, my hand is still stinging from trying to strike-and-toss two of the new ones. With the drilled cap and thinner shell, they are meant to detonate IMMEDIATELY and be used in tripwire mode only.

 

Next time I'll try the new shells with a non-drilled bottom cap to see if it's closer to the ideal 1-second fuse time.

 

Both shells split right at the white line.

Edited by kojak
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I wouldnt use these things again if they were free! I had one go off in my hand as the ally threads stripped catastrophically on the cylinder holding the caplet. My hand hurt like hell for several days. God knows what it would've been like without gloves on! My site banned them after that too. So fragile and unreliable they just ain't worth it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm planning to try these for CQB use (with proper earpro of course for everyone) but reading this thread I think my expectations have died a little :P

 

Can anyone tell me how long the needle generally lasts before it gets dull? Does shoving a coin under the CO2 cap to raise the caplet height solver this problem or would they still be duds?

 

Also, you guys are talking about the newer TB-05 ones with the smaller green shell and the white line that marks where it's going to split. I saw a vid of the new one and they explode within 1 second. Since you guys are saying they blow up instantly and sting your hands I just want to ask will sticking a spoon into the nade to hold the hammer back after the pin is pulled be a better, viable option? You'll release the spoon when you throw the nade so that the nades will only explode in ~1 second after you throw it?

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Using the spoon would only add a split second, and it increases the chances of a dud due to light striking since it can slow the hammer down.

 

I've found this method to be the most consistent: remove the spoon and put a pin between the hammer and striker as a safety. After pulling the pin, I smack the hammer firmly against a doorframe or a rock--dull needles are no longer an issue. As long as there's a good seal between the shell and the grenade head (Teflon tape helps a lot) I get something close to a one second delay with a drilled cylinder and the thicker "left hand" shells. The old "soundflash" shells are less predictable.

 

Stay away from the new dimpled green shells, unless you want them for booby traps. I tried four of them with sealed cylinders and they still went off much too quickly. I'm still curious to try filling them with BBs and using the tripwire, but it will be difficult to find a good opportunity. Maybe if I was in a sniper hide, and ran the tripwire to a point I could reach so I could set it off manually?

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So fragile and unreliable they just ain't worth it.

:nosleep: :nosleep: :nosleep: :nosleep: :nosleep:

 

I've used them without any trouble for a good while now.

The only problem I've had was using a loaded one as a decoy (throwing it from quite high) and not noticing the bottle had punctured. It exploded inside a GP pouch I had on me, destroying it, but that was USER error, not the grenade's fault.

 

I use exclusively the M84 shells.

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:nosleep: :nosleep: :nosleep: :nosleep: :nosleep:

 

I've used them without any trouble for a good while now.

The only problem I've had was using a loaded one as a decoy (throwing it from quite high) and not noticing the bottle had punctured. It exploded inside a GP pouch I had on me, destroying it, but that was USER error, not the grenade's fault.

 

I use exclusively the M84 shells.

 

Ah thanks for the details :P I suppose you also use the same detonator mechanism that comes with the M84 type shells in the M84 grenade packages? :P

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I suppose you also use the same detonator mechanism that comes with the M84 type shells in the M84 grenade packages? :P

I have an older and one that came with the kit. The only difference I can notice is that the old one doesn't have a hole in the bottom cap.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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