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WE-Tech Mk16 Mod 0 (A.W.S.S. version)


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Hello, chaps and chapettes.

 

Although i've been lurking around ArniesAirsoft's chatroom for some time now, this is my very first post here in the forums.

 

I have recently (maybe a month ago) acquired an A.W.S.S.-version Mk16 / SCAR-L from WE-tech. Upon field-stripping it, I couldn't help but notice how extremely simmilar it is to the real steel Mk16, both in stripping procedure and in part resemblance once stripped. Thus, I'll explain the stripping procedure, along with a few pictures, and once that's done, i'll compare the stripped down Real Steel Mk16 to this Gas BlowBack Airsoft replica.

 

Also, i'll comment on it's green gas efficiency (number of effective shots out of a complete Green Gas magazine charge, as well as the criteria used to determine a shot "effective"), and add a few remarks about the product's overall performance and durability.

 

Without further ado, i'll begin explaining the takedown procedure for this replica.

 

First, this is what we start from: A completely assembled Mk16 in it's original box. Here, you can see the contents of the package: Assembled replica, unloaded STANAG-type magazine in FDE color (matching the replica), a speedloader capable of loading 15 rounds into the magazine with a single push of it's loading rod, and a very complete and detailed user manual, which explains the key features of the Mk16 (such as the folding stock), the field-strip procedure and safety measures among other topics.

 

scarlmontaje1.jpg

 

First of all, it is imperative that we pull the charging handle all the way back in order to cock the gun. THIS CANNOT BE DONE UNDER SAFETY MODE. Note that you CAN pull the charging handle once the gun's already cocked.

 

Then, you must switch the fire selector to the "Safety" position. After this, we need to pull on the charging handle about 2-3 centimeters and then push the following pin in the lower receiver (Which is, by the way, made of polymer, like in the Real Steel).

 

scarlmontaje2.jpg

 

Then, after the pin is out of the way (note that the pin does not come out of it's hole, it simply moves out of the way), let's pull the lower receiver out, front first.

 

You may want to apply a drop of oil or two on the trigger group.

 

scarlmontaje3.jpg

 

After the lower receiver is detached, simply push down on the stock. It will simply slide down. Proceed to slide it down all the way and remove it from the upper receiver.

 

A word of caution: Do this while the gun's muzzle is pointing downwards. Otherwise, the recoil buffer spring will fall down.

 

scarlmontaje4.jpg

 

After the stock is well out of the way, proceed to remove the recoil buffer spring. This is one of the parts that you want to oil well. Remember: Silicon-based oils only, unless you want to destroy your hop-up rubber. I'm also not so sure the polymer parts would enjoy the experience so much, either.

 

scarlmontaje5.jpg

 

Next, pull on the charging handle all the way back. And when I say all the way back, I don't mean "as far as it goes when firing/cocking", but all the way back into the other round-shaped area. Then, pull out the charging handle itself.

 

When reassembling, you may place this part on the right or left side as you please. Part of this gun's fantastic ambidexterous design.

 

scarlmontaje6.jpg

 

Now that the charging handle is out of the way, pull the rest of the bolt carrier out from whence the recoil spring came.

 

scarlmontaje7.jpg

 

This is as far as the idiot-proof part of the procedure goes, at least according to the manual. It states that the next steps are recommended to experienced Airsoft players only. Well, I had never operated an Airsoft gun before in my entire life, and found the rest of the procedure as simple as what we've already covered. I've had plenty of Real Steel experience, though, but trust me, you don't need any of it for what's coming.

 

First, you may wanna pull out the gas regulator valve from on top of the barrel's end if you don't have any Torx screwdriver around that'll fit the screws that we're about to tackle.

 

There's only six Torx screws in the whole gun, the rest are hexagon-shaped allen-key screws. Thus, you have to be mentally challenged to miss them. Three on the left, three on the right. One of them is on the 20mm picatinny rail, the other two are on the black part that's just to the side of the rail. Loosen all three of them on each side.

 

Please note: The screws are fixed. They will loosen, but they will NOT come out. Quite handy, too. Fat fingered chaps won't have to worry about dropping them. Also, you may find some of the screws pretty damn tight. Don't worry, just apply more force. The tool won't break, I promise.

 

scarlmontaje8.jpg

 

After the screws have been loosened enough, the whole quick-detachable barrel (which includes the front sight, gas regulator valve, barrel, lower picattiny rail and hop-up chamber (of everything we've gone through so far, this is the only part that's missing in a real gun! Since it's placed in the exact same place a chambered round would be in, the yellowish/goldenish color fits like a charm, especially went peeking into the chamber when firing or cocking the gun) should slide forward. It's pretty damn tight. Just keep pushing it out. I recommend pushing it forward from behind the cylinder-shaped part just between the hop-up chamber and the picatinny rail (this is where the pin that keeps the lower receiver in place goes through, by the way).

 

When putting the gun back together, make sure that this part is aligned to near-perfection, so that you don't have any problems locking the lower receiver into place. In case you can't tell exactly how adjusted it should be, and after you've assembled everything but the lower receiver you find out it's not aligned correctly, fret not: There is no need to pull the whole thing apart again: Just loosen the screws and adjust it so that it is correctly aligned. Tighten the screws again and profit.

 

Anyhow, slide the quick-detachable barrel forward about 4 centimeters and then proceed to pull it out from the underside, front first.

 

scarlmontaje10.jpg

 

CONTINUES IN THE NEXT POST.

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After the frontal part of the barrel is out, keep pulling the set out and sliding it forward at the same time. Also, enjoy the sightly image of my well-built, hairy, manly arms. I know I do.

 

This is another one of the parts that you want to keep well-lubed: This thing slides in quite tightly, and some lube will definitely ease the process in the future and minimize scratches to both the quick-detachable barrel and the inside of the upper receiver.

 

scarlmontaje11.jpg

 

And we're done! Now, share my amazement: Compare our fully disassembled Airsoft replica to a diassembled Real Steel Mk16. (The RS Mk16 depicted is a Gen. 2 prototype, non-current-issue. The field-stripping and internals are the same, though.)

 

scarlmontaje12.jpg

 

scarldisasm.jpg

 

As I said earlier, this gun strives for absolute realism, both in procedure and in parts similarity. It certainly feels like an "Advanced Weapon Simulation System".

 

In terms of performance, I achieved 1 cm tight groupings firing 10 meters away from the target. People say the groupings get much better after you've put some hundred rounds through it, too. And at 10 meters, the thing packs a definite punch. My target was a metallic garbage can for indoors, about one or two milimeters thick. To protect it from damage, I put a rubber-foam shield inside it, about 2-3 centimeters thick. The BBs pierced through all the rubber foam and left huge dents on the back of the can, even when near the outer edge, which is especially thick.

 

As for it's efficiency: In order to deem shots "effective", the gas pressure should be enough to make the whole bolt cycle completely and flawlessly. I was using Cybergun's "Blowback Gas". Ambient temperature was probably 24 degrees celsius, since the room was being air-conditioned at the moment. With a full gas refill, I was able to get the bolt to cycle completely for 73 shots, firing in semi-auto, two shots per second. Thus, you can be pretty confident that every full gas refill will last you two full magazine discharges, since the mag is a real cap, and can only take 30 rounds. Again, a testament to WE's desire for realism. The blowback on Green Gas is strong enough to be felt, and quite satisfactorily, yet not enough to throw off your aim much. It's a pretty tight balance between both, and feels amazingly satisfying to shoot. Hell, even plinking with it is a load of fun. I've got to admit, though, seeing the faces of your friends when they're being shot at with this weapon is priceless. Also, for each magazine fill to last you so many shots while simultaneously kicking your shoulder like a baby with a tantrum is pretty amazing.

 

Seeing how at close/mid range and on Green Gas, the BBs kick like mules, I highly discourage the use of CO2 for skirmishing. It is a very nice alternative for target practice, though, as it'll give you a lot more range and power. You'll only get about 45 shots out of each CO2 shell, though... which is not a problem in Spain, since CO2 is absolutely dirt cheap. GAMO, designer and manufacturer of CO2 pellet guns, sells packs of five at only 2€.

 

About the gun's durability, it sure feels like a rock. A solid rock. One that won't break. I can't exactly claim to have been banging my gun against the walls or dropping it around while skirmishing, but I did accidentally drop my magazine on solid concrete when standing, so it was at least a one-meter fall. The lower/front edge of it simply deformed slightly, with absolutely zero damage to the mag's internals. Also, a couple of soft hits with a hammer made the deformation ever so slightly noticeable.

 

All in all, the gun's quality is superb. It really does not feel like a 200-300€ range gun AT ALL. In fact, it looks, shoots and feels like a real steel weapon (it's recoil is pretty simmilar to that of my .22 long rifle remington 550-1). It's tough as a rock, and the latest AWSS models have been heavily reinforced to account for various issues the first generation rifles experienced. It performs like a GBB rifle on green gas, and almost like a pellet gun on CO2. It is very accurate and it's iron sights are a breeze to zero. Cooldown effect may be an issue for some under sustained full-auto fire, but then again, not even real steel assault rifles can hold sustained full-auto for too long before they display all sorts of issues, like melting bores. Also, ammunition is very scarce when using this rifle, since the only mags available are WE STANAG-type mags, and thus you are restricted to 30 rounds per mag. Stick to short, controlled bursts for suppression, and Semi for target engaging.

 

A definite must-buy for simulation-enthusiasts. Bottom line, let the WE line of GBB rifles roll in and start the real-cap revolution. Skirmishes are a lot more fun when you actually try to aim at what you're firing.

 

BONUS! A few artsy shots of the Mk16. It sure is a damn looker.

 

scarl1.jpg

 

scarl2.jpg

 

scarl3.jpg

 

scarl4.jpg

 

scarl5.jpg

 

All pictures courtesy of my lover, who is known under the pseudonym "Seki". Our pet poring, "Poop", homemade by her, makes several cameo appearances throughout the review. Aint she a real cutie?

Edited by Rukumouru
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Labytinth: I asked WE via e-mail myself about the subject at the time of purchase (about if there were in fact two different versions of the rifle. Also, if there was any difference and, if affirmative, what it was) and they told me the following: (excerpt from their response e-mail)

 

"The AWSS SCAR is our WETTI's exclusive professional training version which feature much stronger internals & 100% polymer body"

 

What it says on their site is that the WETTI/AFC-custom A.W.S.S. versions are special versions meant for military/law enforcement training, and have special, exclusive features such as real steel anodizing.

 

Excerpt from the WETTI/AFC custom website section:

"WE Tactical Training International Ltd. (WETTI) is the official representative of WE with regard to all Military & Law Enforcement sales/service worldwide. WETTI also wholesales & distributes exclusive products from WE which include (but not limited to) the full range of A.W.S.S. rifle platforms in custom finishings (e.g. RS anodizing); our exclusive models are all referred to as the "WETTI-AFC Custom"

Pay special attention to WETTI not being WE as a whole, but only "WE's official representative with regard to mil & LE sales/services". Also, "WETTI wholesales and distributes EXCLUSIVE products from WE, which include the full range of AWSS rifle platforms IN CUSTOM FINISHINGS".

 

Also, if the A.W.S.S. and the normal GBBRs are the same, why are there separate categories for both? Under WETTI/AFC custom, you can find the A.W.S.S. category, yet under the "Products" section, you find the regular line-up.

 

That, and the fact that they replied to me that they were indeed different versions.

 

Also, I started my own thread because hijacking someone else's with such a load of pictures seemed a little rude.

 

Edited by Rukumouru
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They are in different catagories on the website, in my opinion, to create the illusion of a special simulation version to sell to law enforcement/military/silly people. For example, in your case;

 

The packaging is the same as mine.

 

The trademarks are the same as mine.

 

The body is anodised, same as mine.

 

The internals are the same as mine.

 

The steel parts such as the bolt catch are the same as mine.

 

The only thing you haven't posted a good picture of is the trigger group. But I'll guess at it being the same as mine again.

 

Ben.

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They are in different catagories on the website, in my opinion, to create the illusion of a special simulation version to sell to law enforcement/military/silly people. For example, in your case;

 

The packaging is the same as mine.

 

The trademarks are the same as mine.

 

The body is anodised, same as mine.

 

The internals are the same as mine.

 

The steel parts such as the bolt catch are the same as mine.

 

The only thing you haven't posted a good picture of is the trigger group. But I'll guess at it being the same as mine again.

 

Ben.

 

I agree with the anodizing, packaging and trademarks, but the chap who replied to my question (who has been by the way, immensely honest and helpful in other matters) never mentioned any of those. He didn't even say "different internals" (as in differently shaped), just "much stronger internals and 100% polymer body". Have you, perhaps, analyzed the exact chemical components of the internals and the body, and confirmed them to be different?

 

I highly doubt they're simply scamming people, and I believe that you shouldn't be accusing them of such a thing without a basis that goes more in-depth than "it looks the same". However, as you said, it is not an "accusation", but your personal take on the subject, so I won't dwelve into this matter any further.

 

However, unless you can prove that the materials are indeed the same (and if you can, please, share it with us! I would genuinely, and believe me, there is no sarcasm in this sentence, appreciate it a lot.) I believe that this is not the right place to be discussing this, as I really have no idea beyond what WE say themselves, and thus am not the right person to discuss this matter with you.

 

If you find this matter to be of your interest, perhaps you should try contacting them directly. And if you happen to find out anything of interest, i'm sure everyone would appreciate it if you shared it here with us. I certainly would.

 

I would like to make one thing clear though: There was no offense intended in any of the avobe, so please, take none. I'm not trying to debunk your arguments, but it really is my opinion that these chaps aren't scamming anyone.

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Unless you can prove a difference, I don't think you can claim any of the above either.

 

Of course WE are going to perpetuate the myth, as they're still trying to sell the two different versions.

 

I never mentioned anything about 'scamming people'.

 

Show me these upgraded internals?

 

Ben.

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Sorry to disappoint you but the only difference between regular WE and WETTI versions ( AWSS is the name of the system itself ) are:

 

1) Factory power output ( WETTI's version are usually higher )

2) WETTI's versions come with full trades ( normally )

 

They have the exact same materials and do not differ in any different way, unfortunately i don't have my WETTI M4/M16 currently with me ( they're out to the Czech Republic for the Border Wars game ) so i can't provide photos of it right now but you can easily put two trigger groups ( one from a standard WE and another from a WETTI version ) together and see that they not only feel and the materials have the same properties ( softness etc - you don't need fancy tools for this ), but they also share the same casting faults.

 

As soon as i get my guns back i can provide actual photos of different parts taken from my standard WE and from my WETTI's guns if needed. Hell you can search my entire posting history and see that i provide photos on all my WE guns and respective internals ( including from the new M14 ).

 

And no, WETTI replicas DO NOT use type 3 hard anodizing. The SCAR definitely has a better anodizing job than my WETTI M4/M16 ( or my old PDW for that matter ) that was reaaaally poor ( it scratches very easily ) but it doesn't use the same anodizing process that the RS guns use, which would be very difficult to achieve anyway since the aluminum that is used on the receivers ain't pure enough to be given such treatment and have a satisfactory finish ( without blemishes for example ).

 

They just gave you the same marketing mambojambo any company gives when talking about their products :)

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I'd go even further than that. WE and WETTI are the same thing.

 

The no-trade and lo-flow valve versions are for some countries, trades and normal valves for others.

 

That's it. No other differences.

 

The only differences in internal parts come from different versions due to improvements made after release.

 

Ben.

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I'd go even further than that. WE and WETTI are the same thing.

 

They do have the same big boss aka James but technically speaking they are two different companies, legally speaking that is.

Most WETTI receivers are custom jobs from AFC ( hence the WETTI/AFC name ) and again technically they aren't the same but they are built the same way :)

 

But basically they are just WE guns with custom external parts ( and sometimes new versions come out first from WETTI/AFC ), similarly to what SOCOMgear does with WE's stuff.

 

PS.

 

Again sorry for all spelling and grammar mistakes but i just got home from the pub and thus a bit drunk/sleepy :Zzz::D )

Edited by danielsilva
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I thought SOCOMGear was WE as well?

 

The plot thickens.

 

Well, there you have it.

 

To be honest, I've never seen a difference between a WE and a so-called WETTI receiver, so I couldn't say, but as far as I'm concerned, they're all one and the same thing.

 

And I still think this thread belongs in the WE SCAR review thread ;)

 

Ben.

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I still think that having the same internals, as far as shape goes, doesn't mean that they're the exact same internals. As I said, there's nothing stopping them from using the same mechanism design and same parts albeit with stronger materials.

 

Can anyone confirm that both the regular WE and the WETTI A.W.S.S. "plastic" parts are made of 100% polymeric materials, instead of only the A.W.S.S.? Can anyone confirm that both versions' internals are made of the exact same metals? I seriously see no reason to switch designs, given that they work, instead of just using different materials to make the design stronger/more durable whilst still looking the same. I see no reason to blame this aesthetic likeness on "marketing mumbo-jumbo".

 

Labyrinth, I concede that I cannot prove it, and thus cannot claim any of what I said to be true. Can you? James never mentioned anything about different anodizing or markings. Haven't both "supposed" versions had the anodizing and the full trades from the start?

 

Unless anyone can prove both of the avobe questions to be true or false, everything else is merely speculation that I don't believe we should pursue any further.

 

PS: Danielsilva, I see nothing wrong with your posts. You're quite skillful at making reasonable posts while drunk tongue.gif

Edited by Rukumouru
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Yes, I can prove that WE release two versions of the gun. One has no trades and a low-flow nozzle, the other has trades and a normal nozzle. Check with any retailer you want.

 

There are no other differences, and you do no better perpetuating the myth of an 'improved', or 'professional' version of the rifle, because there isn't one.

 

'A.W.S.S.' means nothing more that 'GBBR' - WE even say that indirectly on their website.

 

Ben.

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Labyrinth, you do not know whether there is one or not until you can prove that what WE are selling as the WETTI/AFC-custom/AWSS/whatever version of the SCAR-L does not, in fact, feature internals/polymer body made of different materials than that of the one they're selling as the regular version.

 

I am perpetuating no such myth. Please, stop saying that, it's irritating. Unlike you, I don't act like I am in posession of the absolute, undeniable truth. What I am saying is that I do not know whether it exists or not, because what I just said about different materials hasn't been proven to be true or false. Thus, I suspend judgement and decide that, for myself and myself only, i'll go with their word unless undeniable proof is presented. The rest can do as they please.

 

You are free to go by your own opinion, but don't try to force it unto someone else. I am not denying the existence of an exclusive version until WE says otherwise or it is absolutely and undeniably proven to be false.

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Just out of curiosity could you give a list of what parts are upgraded/reinforced ?

 

Just a list of the internal parts stating if they are steel or not, so we could compare them. It's a very simple test to check if they have "upgraded/reinforced" parts or not.

Edited by danielsilva
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Just out of curiosity could you give a list of what parts are upgraded/reinforced ?

 

Just a list of the internal parts stating if they are steel or not, so we could compare them. It's a very simple test to check if they have "upgraded/reinforced" parts or not.

 

I have absolutely no clue, sadly, as I didn't really ask for further details back when I purchased this thing. If you're interested in checking it, I suggest you e-mail James Chan himself for a list of which parts are reinforced, so that you can compare.

 

EDIT: He did say something about a "100% polymer body", though, so the exact material of the polymer parts should be different.

Edited by Rukumouru
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I have absolutely no clue, sadly, as I didn't really ask for further details back when I purchased this thing. If you're interested in checking it, I suggest you e-mail James Chan himself for a list of which parts are reinforced, so that you can compare.

 

EDIT: He did say something about a "100% polymer body", though, so the exact material of the polymer parts should be different.

 

You need James to disassemble the trigger group and BCG for you in order to check what material are they made from ? :unsure:

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We know that WE comes with "a thousand name". There are WE, WETTI, WE AFC, as well as Version 1, 2, and 3. All of these had been discussed since its first launch in 2008, I myself had learned all WE gbbrs product since its first launch in 2008 and always monitoring their progress.

 

I have all WE gbbr products, and personally, i really don't like Scar. Not because of it scar but the trouble that made me crazy (bb jammed and smashed in the chamber, and WE scar is the closest gbbr to the real steel but the worst gbbr in WE line of products).

 

Rukumouru, if you face any trouble with the bb flight path or its accuracy, try to replace the hop up rubber with Ratech Stinger for scar.

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We know that WE comes with "a thousand name". There are WE, WETTI, WE AFC, as well as Version 1, 2, and 3. All of these had been discussed since its first launch in 2008, I myself had learned all WE gbbrs product since its first launch in 2008 and always monitoring their progress.

 

I have all WE gbbr products, and personally, i really don't like Scar. Not because of it scar but the trouble that made me crazy (bb jammed and smashed in the chamber, and WE scar is the closest gbbr to the real steel but the worst gbbr in WE line of products).

 

Rukumouru, if you face any trouble with the bb flight path or its accuracy, try to replace the hop up rubber with Ratech Stinger for scar.

 

I appreciate the input on the hop-up rubber. However, it hasn't given me any problems at all for now. Still, thank you very much smile.gif .

 

As I said, due to the huge ammount of off-topic that spawned due to the "WE is WETTI yaddayadda" discussion, Lab, it's best we leave this strictly to PM/private discussion.

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