my_plague_666 Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Yes, but it's a minor difference... if he starts with steel body from RSOV+any kind of steel foldable stock... it can be welded and easily machined, than spiater(spiater can't be welded as I know). the locking mech is at the back of an RPKS reciever, unlike a standard AKS reciever where it's located at the front on the side. i did see someone make a decent compromise by using the push button release from an AK74M polymer stock, you still end up with a hole in the side of the stock that way though. awesome work doc, interesting you decided to scratch build it all. well done! Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Thanks.I don't like spending money on things I can make myself...especially when I don't have the money in the first place Plus, as anyone who's made even the smallest part will tell you, there's a lot of job satisfaction involved One thing I've not mentioned so far, that's the flash-hider options. I'm veering towards the simple cone type... I'd like the gun to be as loud as possible, for the (admittedly fairly mild) intimidation factor, and I think that might help a bit. In the 'Cold War' events it'll be up against an air-powered MG42, with it's loud and menacing clattering :icon_eek: Link to post Share on other sites
my_plague_666 Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 was the cone type ever actually used? im sure the only place i've ever seen it is on the old SRC RPK. if you used 45 rounder 5.45 mags you could always make an RPK74 birdcage hider. theres not an awful lot of properly done '74s out there Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 I've seen it in pictures while browsing for images, but looking at them again they were all Airsoft items. I'll probably go with just the muzzle nut for now. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 Made a start on the Bi-Pod... Just 'roughed out' so far. The legs are milled out on the inner sides to form the 'U' section. Lots of measuring, re-measuring...then more measuring to come (most likely with some mild head-scratching action going on as well). I don't want to mess up the pivot point or the angle on the front/upper end of the legs after all that machining Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Out of curiosity, I tried looking up for a couple parts which you could have bought: http://www.rusmilitary.com/html/c-deact_accessories.htm *sees prices on rear sight and bipod Great job on the bipod! Will you be thinning out the block attached to the barrel because the real ones never looked sturdy to me. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Out of curiosity, I tried looking up for a couple parts which you could have bought: http://www.rusmilitary.com/html/c-deact_accessories.htm *sees prices on rear sight and bipod Great job on the bipod! Will you be thinning out the block attached to the barrel because the real ones never looked sturdy to me. I could have bought all the parts ready-made, or a ready-made RPK for that matter, if I had the money (actually, I still wouldn't have, I love making things ) I thought you of all people would understand that RC may i Recomend.... Wheater/Age the wood Russian NVS(night optic) maybe night sights(if your the guy that thinks optics are annoying) MAG drum mag(156 at ASGI)for the "ima *fruitcage* you up long time" look Of course you may... I will be 'beating the wood up' a bit, it's just oiled with dark Mahogany Danish Oil at the moment. NVS? Way too pricey/bulky. Night Sights? What did you have in mind? I have a drum mag, check out my third post. I'm going to convert an AK mag into one of the '40-rounders' as well. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 It's "Forté" I have a genuine SVD scope on my SVD, but I don't really feel the need for any sort of optics on this to be honest. RIS? On an RPK Wash your mouth out (and sterilise your keyboard) Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Just about finished the Bi-Pod mounting... Needs a bit more hand-working to get rid of any remaining machining marks, then I'll paint it. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I thought you of all people would understand that RC Oh don't get me wrong, I like building stuff too. I'm just saying their prices are bananas. But if the price were lower, I'm still open to compromise (like the SKS rear sight in that link only costs £16 so I might give that a go). Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Same here. I tried making the lower front hand-guard retainer, it looks simple enough, but it's a real b##ch to get the shape correct on the Mill without a nice big rotary table, and I don't have one...yet. I could do it by hand, or fabricate one out of sheet steel, but it's a lot of work for such a small part that should be fairly cheap to buy. Link to post Share on other sites
my_plague_666 Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 EDIT:of course if your willing to buy RIS mounted iorn sights,troy makes thier own brand of night sights.and VARIOUS companies make them for AR-15 platforms. hardly authentic soviet mate Link to post Share on other sites
MotoSam Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 hardly authentic soviet mate More like my eyes, they bleed territory for anyone familiar with red-alliance Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 That bleeding eyes thread always makes me laugh...and cringe quite often too I've done a bit more to the Bi-Pod now. The mounting is secured to the barrel by a 4mm grub screw, with the threads removed from the exposed length. This stops the mounting moving rearwards, but still allows for a few degrees of swivel either way. The pivot rod is 5/16" Silver Steel, and the pivot pins are turned down screws, both ends sit flush with the leg's surface. Just the feet and the spring mounting to do now, and the final finishing... Edit; And yes, I realise the block is on back to front in the pics...I was tired... Link to post Share on other sites
MotoSam Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 Would you consider making an rpk 74 flashider? Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Now, where was I... Two alloy plates bonded together, will be riveted and bonded to the legs once I've 'cleaned them up' a bit. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted May 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Another piece done... Link to post Share on other sites
Bane Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 What do you use for bonding Ally flat sheet together? (in reference to the feet for the bipod) How strong is it? I'm pretty good at welding ally but this looks like a cleaner result with less warping for the simpler jobs Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted June 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 For this particular job I used Scotch-Weld DP-100 FR structural adhesive. Not sure of it's ultimate strength, as those plates added to the base plates are really only cosmetic, with no real load on them. This is the data sheet... SWDP100FR The adhesive you need will always depend on what you're bonding together, and what loads will be on the part(s) when in use, obviously. I wouldn't, for example, rely on adhesive alone for bonding a stock mount to a receiver. Surface preparation is very important too. Try to stick very smooth, uncleaned surfaces together and you'll most likely not have much luck. De-grease and roughen the surfaces however, and you'll get really good results. Link to post Share on other sites
Bane Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 For this particular job I used Scotch-Weld DP-100 FR structural adhesive. Not sure of it's ultimate strength, as those plates added to the base plates are really only cosmetic, with no real load on them. This is the data sheet... SWDP100FR Thanks for that. I have a project in the works that i will have to make out of aluminium, i was going to rivet the plates together but i wanted to add a little something between the plates just to give it a bit of extra bond, i really didnt want to have to weld the whole thing together Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 If you're riveting as well as bonding, you should be OK with just about any Structural Adhesive/Epoxy. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted February 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2012 Finally found a little time to make something for myself... MK2 stock, closer to the real thing this time... Simplified the fixing to the receiver on this one, single 4mm screw through the top this time, and added some Brass 'pins'. Made the spring mountings for the Bipod as well. Just need to make the leg-latch now, and build the gearbox, and wire it up, and make a cleaning rod for the Bi-Pod to latch onto, and...and, that's it I think! Link to post Share on other sites
WhiteHawksan Posted February 13, 2012 Report Share Posted February 13, 2012 looking awesome Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted February 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Will be glad to get it finished, I must try saying "no" to people asking me to make/mend/modify things occasionally...but I don't think it'll happen anytime soon Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted October 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2012 And...She's finished. Link to post Share on other sites
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