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as promised, high quality pics of my fullsized G36 with long inner barrel!   It now shoots 470-500 fps. I had a max of even 517 fps and I shoot it in my attic while its wintertime in Belgium right n

I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price     Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi.

To start with, you need to go from this: To this: Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sur

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Quick question...

I have the WE G39C. I was just looking at the video that WE put out of James firing 18 mags in a row. In the video, when a mag is empty the bolt locks back, he puts in a new mag, and gives a pull on the charging handle to release the bolt. I can't for the life of me do the same thing with my G39C. The only way to release the bolt with a magazine in the gun is to use the bolt release button just in front of the trigger. Maybe I am being too gentle, or perhaps there is something wrong with my G39. I have never opened or disassembled it, so I am not sure what could be causing this problem. Is anyone having a similar issue?

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Thank you.

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In response to the army code body, I used to have one, it certainly is a plastic rather than metal, and I am pretty certain from what I remember about the way that it fitted that it will not fit. The other thing about it is that the trades are no longer like that, and it says BmbH instead of GmbH, but that is a minor point, anything was better than that silly 'electric air gun' phase manufacturers went through. :) If you plan to get it engraved and want me to send you reference pictures then I can, as I am going to get mine done soon, so have a load ready! It is a shame that the army code charging handle wouldnt fit, as apart from the fact that it doesnt lock to the side by pushing it inwards, the whole cut and welded steel finish is much closer to the real thing than the WE (look near the front and you will see a crinckly bit, on the WE this is smooth, so probably cnc'ed). On a plus point, the rubber shock pad from the CA aeg will fit on the WE with a little bit of persuasion.

 

With reguards to the charging handle locking back and releasing. I have had no problem with mine, it works fine and exactly as it should. The button is a little stiff, but works fine none the less. As long as there are rounds in the mag (the follower wont raise the nub on the magazine until the last shot has been loaded, as long as there are rounds in the mag it stays down, same as on pistols) simply pull the handle rearwards slightly (not very much, and no real force is needed) and the bolt will release as the catch will drop because the nub will not be locking it. Maybe give it all a spray up with some silicone spray (the first thing that I did to mine!) and cycle it a few times manually to let it work in, lock and release the bolt the way that are now for a few times, but make sure to get some spray on that part of the mechanism. Dont be afraid to strip down this gun to a basic level, it takes seconds and is really easy to do, and there are loads of videos on youtube and the suchlike that show how to do this. You should be able to release the bolt three ways as it is designed. The first two are basically the same but depending on whether you are left or right handed, by pulling the paddle to either the left or the right, and pulling back on the charging handle. This should release the bolt. The other is to push the bolt release button upwards (located inside the trigger guard). Have you tried releasing it by pulling the handle with no magazine in? This should work exactly the same as if there was a magazine with round in.

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I had an issue with my bolt catch as described above. I found that the coating on the lever was thick enough to limit the freedom of movement of the lever past the shoulder bolt that holds it to the fire control box. I removed the lever and sanded the front and back surfaces. When I reassembled it I used blue locktite on the shoulder bolt as it seems prone to working loose with use and vibration.

 

Basically make sure the lever can move freely. The spring that actuates it is small so any hangups or friction can cause the lever not to return.

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:)

 

Would you be able to do me a quick favour?... accurately measure the distance between the screw fittings on the top rail, front to middle, middle to rear? :)

 

 

 

 

Ahoy hoy captain. I hope this anwers your question (measuring from center of screw to center of screw.)

 

Measuring center of screw/hex hole : FRONT TO CENTER, 22.3CM, CENTER TO REAR, 7.4CM (you'll have to work out inches yourself if you wish)

 

Used MM graded precision metal ruler.

 

 

G39C_rail_screw_measurement.png

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from their website:

http://www.weairsoft.com/upload_product_images/157file1

 

 

I still bet those are G&P aftermarket parts they use for the conversion since the color difference is visible

 

 

Could very well be camera flash causing those color variations. They don't appear to be very professional photos. It's like with the KSC G19 frame, looks totally off on a normally taken photo but in real life it's fine. I don't know how credible that shop is thought, they might be chop shopin for all I know :P

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Ehobby has them up. You can see the color variation there as well (at least in the RAS variant).

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/we-g39-ras-gas-blow-back-rifle-black.html

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/we-g39e-gas-blow-back-rifle-black.html

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/we-g39k-gas-blow-back-rifle-black.html

 

Has anyone heard when they will be releasing the RAS kit mentioned in the Xmas video?

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