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mellvis,

 

mags are pretty much leak proof! its designed similar to tk/kj m4 mags.

 

here are a couple of things to expect from the g36c

 

1. hop MIGHT over hop on lighter bbs. fix is to replace the hop nub with a smaller diameter one like a sliced oring. or better yet put in an aftermarket hop rubber, or a marui pistol hop rubber.

2. due to its insane recoil screws might loosen up. fix is to apply medium strength thread locker. the hammer rroller pin also comes loose sometimes so its best to check it every once in a while.

3. front sight is sitting too low, fix is to either modify the front sights hole so you can place the sight a little higher. or use optics.

4.mags are a little hard to fill at first but once the oring in the fill valve breaks in then everything is okay. also do not over tighten the fill valves!

 

 

now all i mentioned may not happen to your unit. but it helps to check those.

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as promised, high quality pics of my fullsized G36 with long inner barrel!   It now shoots 470-500 fps. I had a max of even 517 fps and I shoot it in my attic while its wintertime in Belgium right n

I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price     Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi.

To start with, you need to go from this: To this: Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sur

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mellvis,

 

mags are pretty much leak proof! its designed similar to tk/kj m4 mags.

 

here are a couple of things to expect from the g36c

 

1. hop MIGHT over hop on lighter bbs. fix is to replace the hop nub with a smaller diameter one like a sliced oring. or better yet put in an aftermarket hop rubber, or a marui pistol hop rubber.

2. due to its insane recoil screws might loosen up. fix is to apply medium strength thread locker. the hammer rroller pin also comes loose sometimes so its best to check it every once in a while.

3. front sight is sitting too low, fix is to either modify the front sights hole so you can place the sight a little higher. or use optics.

4.mags are a little hard to fill at first but once the oring in the fill valve breaks in then everything is okay. also do not over tighten the fill valves!

 

 

now all i mentioned may not happen to your unit. but it helps to check those.

 

I disagree with your #3. I don't think the front sight is sitting too low. I made a quick search and found that the the set up is the same with the real steel. So, what i did as i mentioned a few pages back was right (someone's here said what i did was wrong). Here some pics i found on the web. Take a look closely to their rear sight. It appears the ootb rear sight set up was indeed higher than the front sight, that's why you're gonna need to lower it down to level it with the front sight. No need to modify the front sight.

 

hk2-2.jpg

hk_g36c_9.jpg

hk2-2.jpg

Edited by Break100
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thing is that i already maxed out the rear sight i added an oring before which pushed the rear sight further down. its pushed to far down thats its abnormally tilted when you look at it sideways. and its still not level with the bb flight. if it works for most of you guys then no problem but for me id rather raise the front sight a tad higher so that my rear sight is not as pushed down and is level when you look at it sideways. plus you still have a lot of room for adjusting the rear sight up or down. it will work both ways anyway lower the rear or raise the front, so if you choose to lower the rear but still doesnt line up with the bb flight then raise the front a little.

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Huge amount of over-hop with .28s today, I'll have to mess with the hop-up. Also, for those of you that have put carry handles on, have you had any issues with the tube loosening due to the recoil? My cross hair has gone from -- when I started the day to /

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A small warning to all those interested in the RA-Tech G36K Conversion -

 

DO NOT BUY from Tokyo Model Company.

 

I ordered mine from there number of issues -

 

Wrong inner barrel sent - Far too long and for a different gun

Wrong hop rubber sent - NOT RA-Tech and for a different gun

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Also guys what hop rubbers are compatible with this?

Edited by bankz5152
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Used mine for the first time, well actually i wasnt expecting too as i had only got it two days before. Only really took it to chrono, but when i did it was doing around 305 fps. Gotta love the cold :) So with two mags i went head to head against aeg spammers and did ok. Had two kills within the first 20 minutes. Was slightly over hopping with .25 leading to an unfortunate incident where the bb flew up into the back of someones head tongue.gif . but i have to say that the feel and the look of the gun is on another level. I think if there was a battle purely involving these it would sound amazing. Weapon performed flawlessly. Im now firmly in the GBBR camp. Gawd bless em biggrin.gif

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may have been mentioned before (and if it has, just slap me) but has anyone found out if these are compatible with AEG M4 buffer tube adapters?

 

if i end up going for one before they release the open bolt M4s, i would still want the M4 stock options.

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spencerman,

 

the g36 is using an exact copy of a marui PISTOL hop rubber. how strong does a pistol shoot? 350 fps? why dont you just replace the hop nub into a smaller one?

I do fully intend to replace the hop rubber in the all too soon future, as I am still having issues every so often with the bbs not going anywhere near as far as they should, and just plummetting earthbound. I shall probably take your advice about a promethius/nineball vsr one. The only trouble is that this will be a purchase I make with other stuff, so I am restricted as to how soon I can order, but hopefully within the next couple of weeks. I am not 100% confident about messing with the hop, as this is the only part that really is the same as on an aeg etc. and that is where I have problems. Most of the gas specific bits or real steel resemblance pieces I dont mind! I am sure it isnt that bad when you do it, and if I recall there was a guide of sorts a few pages back, so hopefully I should be ok. Is there anything else that I need to get to go with the hop rubber? I read about some sort of H nub thingy, but am not sure what that is or where it goes, but do I need to get one of those as well? I really would like to aim to use the gun on .25s, which at the moment is certainly not an option. I still love it though. :)

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All i did with mine was strip it and clean it. Then re-greased and reassembled. Otherwise it shot fine, and had none of the barrel wobble or such problems that ive heard about. Hopefully you wont either. But theres loads of info in this thread on any initial problem you might encounter. It is a fantastic gun, and will most likely lead to the demise of my wallet as i now wish to purchase all the open bolt WE's. biggrin.gif

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I bought silicone grease, spray and liquid. All Abbey. Im really just trying out different combinations at the mo. But i use the grease for the rails, then spray on the blowback and bgc. Then liquid in the propane adaptor and on the mag valves. Got them off ebay, but you can get perfectly good lubricants from halfords. If you look on youtube, theres some videos done by a fellow airsofter who shows what he uses, really good stuff.

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So i took the plunge into the GBBR world... I order my G39 just now and I'm just wondering if there any things i should do as soon as it hits my door step?biggrin.gif

 

Field strip, remove old lubrication and lubricate with new quality products. Re-tighen eveything, locktite anything that you're sure you won't be removing any time soon.

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So, with the NPAS opened all the way my G36K chronos at ~490 with .2g BB's.

All the way closed it's at 390-420.

 

I need it to clock in at sub-300 fps with .2g BB's for CQB. How do I accomplish this?

 

It came with all the original parts in a small bag, so I can install the original floating valve, if that helps.

Someone mentioned shimming it to reduce fps? Where should I put the shims?

 

 

It's also got an RA-Tech inner barrel and hopup. I don't know how much of an impact these parts have.

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