Reppyboyo Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 Just noticed the pin is working its way out of my hammer. Took a while, looks like I will have to start upgrading the trigger parts soon enough. Shame RA-Tech dont make a G36 trigger instead of just the M4 type. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 Just make sure you buy all the parts at the same time! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 Already have an old steel valve lock and knocker from RA-Tech which I used from my PDW. Just need the disconnecter and hammer. Does anyone do a steel g36 trigger? I suspect leaving the stock one in there amongst the steel parts will wear it down quickly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted May 27, 2011 Report Share Posted May 27, 2011 Well you *could* use the original trigger and just mod it, reinforcing the part of the trigger that engages the hammer. That's what some people ( me included ) was doing back in the day where such aftermarket solutions didnt exist. See the following post to understand what i'm talking about, http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=170736&st=6360 ( just scroll down until you see the post i'm talking about ). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 Is it just me or the nozzle does not fully retract? I notice my Main Nozzle O-Ring seem to be a size larger. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 Is it just me or the nozzle does not fully retract? I notice my Main Nozzle O-Ring seem to be a size larger. It is supposed to be a tight fit and provide a good seal. If the nozzle isn't retracting fully or has difficulty to do so it's a sign that you need to clean and lub the guiding rails and lub the o-ring. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryangolfvr6 Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 just quick question just bought my self a we g39c and was wondering when fitting the npas to it whos cut the groves as discribed in the fitting guide from ra tech and whos not bothered? Ive heard that some people say you dont need to do that mod and some saying you do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 For my own I only trimmed the down the nozzle arms about 2-3mm or so. Direct drop in gave me about 180fps I think, after I trimmed the arms about 360. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 It is supposed to be a tight fit and provide a good seal. If the nozzle isn't retracting fully or has difficulty to do so it's a sign that you need to clean and lub the guiding rails and lub the o-ring. I look again today, The lube was still relatively clear on the inside. What I did found out was that the two plastic tabs keeping the nozzle in was responsible for the nozzle failure to fully retract. If I back the screw out on turn from the tightest, (still no play for the plastic pieces to move) the nozzle can easily fully retract. I'm thinking to use a lil bit of loctite, but I'll keep it as is (200 round later I'll check if it move or not) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryangolfvr6 Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 is there a certain type grease i should use on the bolt slide etc? or is any aeg grease good to go? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Warpix Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 I used silicone oil on my bolt and its working just fine. I also put in a concave hop nub, and though it doesn't overhop, it still shoots somewhat high, with .20's, .25's, and .30's. I lined up my sights properly by using washers between the screw and the rear sight, but wish I didn't have to do that since the screw is a little visible in the rear sight. Does anyone know of any affordable scoped carry handles that can handle the recoil? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
raito Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 i use the CA carry handle w/scope and it handles the recoil fine, haven't lost its zero... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 (edited) I also put in a concave hop nub, and though it doesn't overhop, it still shoots somewhat high, with .20's, .25's, and .30's. I'm confused, with the SCS nub it is still overhopping? (0.25g+) What is the weight needed to get a stable flight path? The original I heard was somewhere 0.4g+ Question, does the bb still fall out if you turn hop off and barrel pointing down? (I notice RA-Tech rubber+ stock nub does this up to 10-15% hop on) i use the CA carry handle w/scope and it handles the recoil fine, haven't lost its zero... Where do you find the CA scope by it self? I don't trust the ARES enough for handle recoil. Edited May 30, 2011 by kullwarrior Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryangolfvr6 Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 not sure its been noted but the little mag loader thing you get doesnt hold 30rds in it counted today mine only holds 20 rds at the most so means filling it up again with another 10rds Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 What I did found out was that the two plastic tabs keeping the nozzle in was responsible for the nozzle failure to fully retract. If I back the screw out on turn from the tightest, (still no play for the plastic pieces to move) the nozzle can easily fully retract. I'm thinking to use a lil bit of loctite, but I'll keep it as is (200 round later I'll check if it move or not) Yes those were the guiding rails i was talking about. Question, does the bb still fall out if you turn hop off and barrel pointing down? (I notice RA-Tech rubber+ stock nub does this up to 10-15% hop on) If you're using the RAT hopup rubber that's actually to be expected, i found that the "nub" inside the RAT hopup rubber is too big for the hopup hole/window of the inner barrel and thus doesn't contact with the BB unless you apply quite a bit pressure into it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Hmm, question (since I dont have longer range available to see hopup takes into effect) Does the RA-Tech bucking+stock nub one overhop on 0.25, 0.28, 0.30g? I've heard the Stock Nub+bucking will overhop even 0.36g? Do you guys recommand going to SCS nub or is the RA-T Bucking+Stock nub sufficient? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 I find the RA-T bucking to suck donkey balls. I've been using the Element H nub + Nineball combo with great results on the M14 ( without the nub of course ), G39 and SCAR. My next target is using it with the M16 as soon as it arrives. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 1, 2011 Report Share Posted June 1, 2011 Ok so finally got my G36 going again! Got semi auto back! After firing about 200 more rounds through it seemed to settle and be ok so Im happy. though not really getting the range I want from the Massive inner barrel (44cm). Only using .28s at the minute but im going to try some .34gs see if I get what I want! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Seraphim989 Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 i use the CA carry handle w/scope and it handles the recoil fine, haven't lost its zero... My CA does spins every time I fire it; did you just drop it right in or did you tighten it up some? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 2, 2011 Report Share Posted June 2, 2011 If you use some Loctite threadloc it wont loose zero for a while just re-apply once every month if you play alot! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 I find the RA-T bucking to suck donkey balls. I've been using the Element H nub + Nineball combo with great results on the M14 ( without the nub of course ), G39 and SCAR. My next target is using it with the M16 as soon as it arrives. I'm still noticing bb falling out switching back sto Stock Bucking but with White H-Hop nub Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 (edited) I'm still noticing bb falling out switching back sto Stock Bucking but with White H-Hop nub Sorry to double post I cant find the editing button anymore I finally got my chrono. I found using the RA-Tech rubber the fps on max increase 50fps Also does anyone know what is the purpose of trimming the nozzle on step 8 of installing RA-Tech NPAS? http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/teaching/teaching_5.php I can't seem to decrease my gun's fps down enough. the lowest is 380, highest at 470. Was hoping to get it to 350. Gun spec: -RA-Tech G36E Innerbarrel, bucking, Trigger set, and NPAS (FPS set lowest with the overall length at 18.18mm I really don't want to switch to a K length over this. Edited June 4, 2011 by kullwarrior Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ManMarin3 Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 trimming the nozzle allows you to raise the FPS more with the NPAS, i found not trimming it seems to be the only way to get sub 350 speeds on GG or propane Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 Already have an old steel valve lock and knocker from RA-Tech which I used from my PDW. Just need the disconnecter and hammer. Does anyone do a steel g36 trigger? I suspect leaving the stock one in there amongst the steel parts will wear it down quickly. I found this on Jonhy's ( Ra-Tech ) facebook page, so it may not be too far long until you can get them Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panzergraf Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 trimming the nozzle allows you to raise the FPS more with the NPAS, i found not trimming it seems to be the only way to get sub 350 speeds on GG or propane Yeah, my nozzle came pre-trimmed from RA-Tech (I bought a "custom" jobbie from them) and I had to lengthen it with a piece from an old pen to get it firing below 350 with the NPAS. Amazingly it's holding together, though I really really want a new non-molested nozzle for it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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