ryangolfvr6 Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 For my own I only trimmed the down the nozzle arms about 2-3mm or so. Direct drop in gave me about 180fps I think, after I trimmed the arms about 360. was the 180fps with the npas closed or full open? my site limit is 350fps and carnt work out if i should trim the nozzle arms back or not? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted June 4, 2011 Report Share Posted June 4, 2011 Fully open. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 So I finally got a 350fps of my RA-Tech Custom G36E Spec: RA-Tech 509mm 6.03mm Inner Barrel RA-Tech Bucking RA-Tech Trigger Set RA-Tech NPAS -NOZZLE IS NOT TRIMMED Temperature approx 15C Setup: RA-Tech bucking+Teflon mod+ NPAS fully closed (shortest overal length) = ~500fps RA-Tech bucking+Teflon mod+ NPAS overall length 18.18mm (covers 1 O-Ring of 2) = 420fps RA-Tech bucking+NPAS 18.18mm = 400fps Stock bucking+NPAS 18.18mm = 380fps Stock bucking+Teflon mod+ NPAS 18.75mm = 360fps (NPAS with little super glue to prevent unscrewing due to very little thread contact between the two piece of NPAS) In summary, I find that the 509mm Innerbarrel too long for practical skirmish use. People considering using the rifle length should consider keeping the original inner barrel OR use a shorter tightbore barrel. 420 to 500 fps adjust is not acceptable for a 15C as 25C will certainly push it to 450-550fps. The Cabine length would probably be the optimal length for skirmish using 6.03mm inner barerel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david pithers Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 (edited) so it is possible to buy an after-market valve that is non adjustable and will only allow a max of say 350 fps and lower?. Ive had bad experience with the npas from ratech and begrudge giving them any money. I think i read that the valve is tm compatible so can i not just buy a tm valve and stick that in? if thats not possible can someone explain (possibly with pretty pictures) how you would go about adding a spacer to the floating valve pretty please Edited June 7, 2011 by david pithers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 The dangerwerx valve for the MP9 might work. I've heard the KSC and TM valves are cross compatible, but I wouldn't know..just a suggestion. The floating valves from TM GBBs are the same as the stock WE G39 valve, so no point in swapping them in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stuey Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 so it is possible to buy an after-market valve that is non adjustable and will only allow a max of say 350 fps and lower?. Ive had bad experience with the npas from ratech and begrudge giving them any money. I think i read that the valve is tm compatible so can i not just buy a tm valve and stick that in? if thats not possible can someone explain (possibly with pretty pictures) how you would go about adding a spacer to the floating valve pretty please Have you tried an NPAS since RA-Tech improved it? The new ones are better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Ive got 440mm 6.01mm inner barrel in mine with a nineball hop and it gives between 325 - 355fps not very consistant which is pain, it used to be consistant! I was expecting somthing more like 380 at least considering i got 360 - 365 consistant with a 350mm 6.01mm inner barrel. Any reason for this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david pithers Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Thanks Kruck i shall check it out. Well Stuey the last one i had was in my kwa mp7, which i guess was really some of the first npas kits that they had produced. If no other option presnts itself then i will have to buy the npas, ill probaly end up fixing it so it cant come loose. Spose its not like there expensive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryangolfvr6 Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 anyone got suggestions on the best way to assemble the springs back in the bgc once uve fitted the npas been told its a right pain to get the pins through the springs and one got tips? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 It isn't that bad. I might have mentioned it in the disassembly guide, but if you have the front of the bolt facing upwards, the spring should just dangle where it needs to be while you slide the pin in. I suppose if you disassemble the "other" way (the way I didn't cover in the guide) it could be quite tricky. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryangolfvr6 Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 It isn't that bad. I might have mentioned it in the disassembly guide, but if you have the front of the bolt facing upwards, the spring should just dangle where it needs to be while you slide the pin in. I suppose if you disassemble the "other" way (the way I didn't cover in the guide) it could be quite tricky. i was thinking of doing it like that holding it up so gravity dangles the spring straight down Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Pretty easy, look through the pin hole as you are putting the nozzle back in. You should see the end loop on the spring pass the hole, pop the pin in (not all the way just yet), check that it has caught the spring and if so push through. Be careful though, if the spring passed too far you can put the pin through the main spring instead of the end loop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Does anyone here know where to source front portion of nozzle for spare parts? Broke my two days ago, still looking for replacement. I know CWI has em, but they're complete. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Does anyone here know where to source front portion of nozzle for spare parts? Broke my two days ago, still looking for replacement. I know CWI has em, but they're complete. I had the exact thing happen to me over the weekend. It is part #8 that is needed. Unfortunately I couldn't find it available so I had to order the whole assembly from Evike. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) Ok, my parts are here, but having some major problems. I have installed the new firing pin carrier part: (http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=666) and now my bolt wont cycle properly, its being veery sluggish. Looking further into this, it seems that the Valve locker does not allow the hammer to be compressed fully when the bolt is cycled, making it a LOT harder for the bolt to move, which is the cause of all this! I have tried removing the valve locker and the bolt cycles smoothly, but the gun has very little recoil and power! I am starting to think its because the grooves on the firing pin carriers are different?! (Circled in Red) But the upgrade parts Ra-Tech suggest are the exact same as the silver one, so I am really confused.... Black (Old G39C, Notice the pin missing) / Silver (WE M4 part from Airsoft Buddy) Uploaded with ImageShack.us Any ideas on how i should deal with this? Edited June 8, 2011 by Atsalakotos Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) If you're mixing the stock g39 valve delayer ( new type ) with the old type type fire pin carrier it won't work, to use the old style firing pin carrier you'll also need to buy the old type valve knocker delayer. Before you go and buy a delayer, there should be a little screw in the stock delayer, remove it and the little black piece it holds and try it then Edited June 8, 2011 by danielsilva Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 If you're mixing the stock g39 valve delayer ( new type ) with the old type type fire pin carrier it won't work, to use the old style firing pin carrier you'll also need to buy the old type valve knocker delayer. Before you go and buy a delayer, there should be a little screw in the stock delayer, remove it and the little black piece it holds and try it then Thanks for the reply, will try that tomorrow when i get back home. But is the really weak recoil and power the cause of the valve delayer? What does it really do? Because the gun works without it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Thanks for the reply, will try that tomorrow when i get back home. But is the really weak recoil and power the cause of the valve delayer? What does it really do? Because the gun works without it... Well the delayer ... delays Without it the valve shuts too fast and thus the gas volume isn't the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Well the delayer ... delays Without it the valve shuts too fast and thus the gas volume isn't the same. Makes sense! Thanks for the tips, it really helped me! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Hey guys, Where can you buy stock G39 trigger internals? Mine is just playing up again! Got about 10-15ft range with wild inconsistancy both with range, recoil and I assume fps. Thinking of putting a new set of stock parts to see if that solves the problem.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryangolfvr6 Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 anyone know of anywhere to get replacemt plastic covers for the mags i dropped one and cracked the bottom off around the screw that holds in in the plastic outer casing so it wont work at all now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 anyone know of anywhere to get replacemt plastic covers for the mags i dropped one and cracked the bottom off around the screw that holds in in the plastic outer casing so it wont work at all now. I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price Hey guys, Where can you buy stock G39 trigger internals? Mine is just playing up again! Got about 10-15ft range with wild inconsistancy both with range, recoil and I assume fps. Thinking of putting a new set of stock parts to see if that solves the problem.. Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryangolfvr6 Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 (edited) I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi. found them on airsoft buddy so you think its cheaper to buy a whole new mag for the sake of the plastic casing well lets look its $12 (£7) for the plastic casing minus the bottom clip on part. plus postage or $37 (£22) for a new magazine plus postage Edited June 12, 2011 by ryangolfvr6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Hey guys, Where can you buy stock G39 trigger internals? Mine is just playing up again! Got about 10-15ft range with wild inconsistancy both with range, recoil and I assume fps. Thinking of putting a new set of stock parts to see if that solves the problem.. - http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=879 - http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=624 - http://www.airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=626 Couldn't find the new type valve knocker and firing pin base though, but even with the original parts they should work fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 12, 2011 Report Share Posted June 12, 2011 Guys I have a question. Some time ago I purchased the "T.S.C. CNC Reinforced Nozzle Track Holder for WE G39 GBB Series", along with some other stuff, just for the hell of it. So today I was cleaning out my G39C and thought I'd install these parts. So I started looking at the gun, and then at the exploded diagram, and then at the parts, and I am like "uhm, where do these go?". I can't figure out which parts these replace. I thought it was parts 10 and 11 of the nozzle assembly, but it doesn't seem right. So, has anyone installed these or know where they are suposed to go/what parts they replace ? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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