1st Commando Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 the rail on the rifle should be a standard picatanny rail so no adapter needed mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Does any body have problem firing their gun in full auto? Mine for some reason just simply fires 1 shot normally, 2nd shot drops out and there's not enough energy to cock the third time I've replaced nozzle (NPAS to original), Change bolt carrier, and even lube the firing mechanism without much help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryangolfvr6 Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 Does any body have problem firing their gun in full auto? Mine for some reason just simply fires 1 shot normally, 2nd shot drops out and there's not enough energy to cock the third time I've replaced nozzle (NPAS to original), Change bolt carrier, and even lube the firing mechanism without much help. no mine fires full auto fine there is a difference in range of shots between full auto and semi only semi shots go further but full is far enough just not as far Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 the rail on the rifle should be a standard picatanny rail so no adapter needed mate Well, its not... Its some weird rail that reminds me of the one on the USP, don't know though cause I dont have a USP. But its not picatinny for sure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1st Commando Posted July 12, 2011 Report Share Posted July 12, 2011 ahh it's the molded one i'm guessing then . not sure if the rail adapter will work mate Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 All USP line and P2000 uses its own rail system, so its not 1913 pictinny rail aka 20mm rail As for my full auto issue, I'm guessing it's the hammer spring and the recoil spring issue. I left the carrier lock back for 12-16 hours once and probably 50 hours of the hammer spring being cocked. I'm suspecting its the two issue. I'll see when I get replacement Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) i accidentally left may hammer cocked, bolt locked backed for a week and nothing bad happened. if it stutters and purges gas while on full auto chances are the magazines are overfilled. if it doesnt have enough energy left to cycle the second bb then try loosening the 2 screws on the plastic bits that stops the nozzle from coming out. its screwed to the bolt. also check your disconnector if its still okay. a friends g36 started acting like a bolt action rifle on full auto. found out his disconnector snapped. Edited July 13, 2011 by mnmc10 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) To reiterate my problem Semi fire gun fires fine, Full auto, gun will stutter, firing first shot straight, 2nd shot with significant less energy (it flies for 5-15 feet before hitting the ground) subsequent shot continus to have weaker power. The gun will stock firing from 2 reasons 1) (more commonly) the hammer is not cock anymore, chamber is clear 2) (rarely) the hammer is cock however, the auto sear is still holding the hammer back, chamber is sometimes clear, sometimes not. Stuff I've tried to fix the issue without making a difference -Heating the magazine up (hair dryer), it would be warm to the touch -Replacing the nozzle, using stock valve instead of NPAS -Replacing bolt carrier (using a newer one with and without NPAS) -Lube the bolt carrier -Lube the firing pin, valve locker i accidentally left may hammer cocked, bolt locked backed for a week and nothing bad happened. Okay, so I guess is not this problem If it stutters and purges gas while on full auto chances are the magazines are overfilled. That was part of the problem, I'll see if it can be fixed, A empty G39 magazine without bb or gas after Gasket maker resealed is approx 407g (+/- 1g) At what weight do you consider it to be full? My filled mags range anywhere from 418g to 440g? If it doesnt have enough energy left to cycle the second bb then try loosening the 2 screws on the plastic bits that stops the nozzle from coming out. its screwed to the bolt. also check your disconnector if its still okay. a friends g36 started acting like a bolt action rifle on full auto. found out his disconnector snapped. My case also has this issue, but both my carrier on all nozzle rentention screws have 1 rotation from fully close, the nozzle freely retracts when you pull it. However, it still doesn't resolve it either. Also check your disconnector if its still okay. a friends g36 started acting like a bolt action rifle on full auto. found out his disconnector snapped. I check mine, the RA-Tech disconnecter (RA-Tech installed it) was still completely intact with very little wear marks. Edited July 13, 2011 by kullwarrior Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 i weighed my mags and its full to the brim at 450grams. i would say 430grams just to be sure. i experienced that same full auto prob on my new m4 ob kit. on full auto once i press the trigger itll fire one round. then the hammer is not cokced back with no chambered bb. i simply drenched my trigger set with lube and it magically worked. i know many will think its wrong but i used 2t oil for two stroke weed wacker engines as lube on my trigger set. apply i few drops on your trigger hammer and sear then see if it fixes it. if not then wash the lube off then reapply the lube you usually use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 (edited) I tried with different weight of magazine, 430g or less seem to have the same result, 430+ will result in gas vapor spitting out barrel and the ejection port. However, result is still the same, except this time the gun hammer gets cocked 50% of time with the auto sear still engage. I also tried dropping AI propane silicion oil without much success, I'll tear it down to trigger again and soak it in oil see if it helps. ->> FIXED! Case problem for furure reference: Symptoms: -Sluggish cycling on Full auto -First bb goes straight and subsequent bb fall out 5 to 15 feet ahead -Full auto Stops prematurely -When it stops, hammer may be uncocked OR held back my auto sear Actual Problem: Lubing, pour silicon lube (I'm really tempting to use gun lube for this part since it doesnt contact the hopup bucking anywhere close) onto the hammer (where the disconnector and auto sear enganges) also pour it on the entire dis connector as well as the trigger box where it contact the auto sear. Finally if that still does not work, Add spacer to the end of the recoil spring this should push the tension up allowing the auto sear to trip more easily. I don't know why, but the Auto sear does not trip as easily as the WA M4, WE M4, or even real AR-15 Edited July 13, 2011 by kullwarrior Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 glad you fixed it! i dont know why but when it happened to my m4 ob i simply drenched the trigger set with lube and it worked great. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 (edited) Kullwarrior, Were your issues similar to this? Edited July 14, 2011 by dstole Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 Kullwarrior, Were your issues similar to this? The guy was using HFC134a (lower pressure to propane) so it has a sluggish recoil to begin with. In addition, the bolt travel isnt far enough for the auto sear to disengage Similiar problem, but not close. My had crisp cycling on semi and crisp shot on first 1 or 2 shot in auto. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 to my undesrtandin the auto sear will trip when the bolt goes forward to battery. when the bolt goes back itll push the hammer down till the auto sear catches it. then when the bolt comes back to battery it will hit the metal extension and disengage the sear. i also use 134a sometimes and the recoil is a bit weaker rof also weaker but only a little. 134 has enough power to cycle the g36. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 Finally got my RA-Tech CNC steel trigger bits, looks nice. Now, anyone know of a disassembly/reassembly guide for the trigger box? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 Finally got my RA-Tech CNC steel trigger bits, looks nice. Now, anyone know of a disassembly/reassembly guide for the trigger box? It's not that hard to take the trigger box apart Trigger Group: Pop the big cross screw behind the selector Place selector on auto (hammer dropped), use 1.5mm hex to remove the selector on each side. push selector in when you unscrew, watch for the ball bearing (one on each side) Pull The trigger box out, remove the two gear use for selector Remove the selector (comes out from left side, CCW. note the auto sear position when you remove it Unscrew the side plate (on the right side) 2 cross screw, gently remove the plate, remove the valve lock spring (I use a tweezer to do it). Remove the valve locker Remove the bolt catch by unscrew the flat head one, gently remove the bolt catch spring Remove the bolt release it should be as easy as wiggling out, remove the two bolt release spring Cock the hammer, Remove the top plate with 2 phillip screw, remove the firing pin, the firing pin spring is below the firing pin. Holding the hammer, gently drop the hammer. Use an appropriate size pin punch, remove the hammer. Note the Hammer spring legs goes over the trigger spring assembly Next use the appropriate size pin punch, remove the trigger. Note the spring position Finally seperate the disconnector from trigger, note there's a spring about 2/3 way counting from the front Swap the parts, reverse the process. to my undesrtandin the auto sear will trip when the bolt goes forward to battery. when the bolt goes back itll push the hammer down till the auto sear catches it. then when the bolt comes back to battery it will hit the metal extension and disengage the sear. i also use 134a sometimes and the recoil is a bit weaker rof also weaker but only a little. 134 has enough power to cycle the g36. The auto sear is alot harder to disenage than typical AR-15, hence the reason why I said the recoil spring needs a higher tension. I tried removing my spacer on the recoil spring and the auto just go back to its former problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted July 16, 2011 Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 On the note about my original problem, it resurfaced again. This time the recoil spring with or without spacer did not help. The case was that sometimes the when you fire on auto it would stop and the hammer is found to be in the decocked position. Ugh back to square one. I'm actually thinking using firearm gun lube on the trigger pack as it's probably a better choice as silicon really likes to gum up with dirt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bbstriker Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Hi Does anyone know of any UK (or other country) vendor that sells WE parts- specifically G39. My LHS fire selector fell off this weekend so I need parts 103, 147 and 84. Airsoftbuddy has #103 but not the other two. Really disappointing about the availability of WE parts. I've spent hours on google without success. Any help will be much appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Tactical quarter master might have what you're looking for, they have a fair selection of WE parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spencerman Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 You beat me to it! www.tacticalquartermaster.co.uk , and if you cannot find those specific parts, then drop him an email stating what you are after, he will probably be able to get them for you. If you like or use WE guns, then this is one website to bookmark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Had a guy come in with PDW that was stuttering and working like ###### in FA, the problem turned out to be greas, cleaned it out and used silicone with teflon balls in it, and it workes 100% again. It might be as simpel as a to heavy grade od lube on the bolt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Has anyone found the conversion kit for the WE G39? I really want to swap out my rifle length for the K length RAS (fps is too high and barrel wobble) They were shown with the introduction of IdZ kit at Arms Cool forum (Taiwanese forum) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Supposedly out the same time as the idz kit but never surfaced. Don't think they are going to bother now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 Well for what is worth, the IdZ stock kit box has the same sticker that is used on the handguard kit. I'm bugging RA-Tech to see if they can get it as a kit or by parts. Also, today I strip my gun, remove all silicon oil at trigger group, bolt carrier, and cocking handle to replaced with Hoppes Gun oil. And man, never had my bolt carrier riding so smoothly. Basically bolt carrier portion runs at bare minimum lube while the trigger gets a bit more. I did not lube any point where it could drip into nozzle. I really recommand using gun oil for trigger parts as silicon oil is only good at collecting gunk rapidly (less than 100 rounds and its dirty) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted July 19, 2011 Report Share Posted July 19, 2011 *snipped* Thanks for the guide, installed today without much issue. For any future users of ra-tech's kit, the trigger set does need some break in. Initially semi-auto wouldn't work properly, I would have to push the trigger forward a /TINY/ amount for it to click back. Dry fired off about 6 mags worth later and its working perfectly. Only other thing worth noting is my fire selector seems to be stiffer than before, not a bad thing IMHO. As for what was broken, only the firing pin (?, the part that the hammer actually hits to push the valve knocker forward) had fallen out of the knocker. If I wanted to be cheap I could of glued it back in but meh. The other parts were not as worn as I thought they would be, looked like the old bits could see a few more thousand rounds before completely failing. So, now the g39 is firing and semi no longer slips into auto, brill. Just to add, I also think that if you cant afford RA-Tech upgrades, replacing broken/worn items with WE stock replacements isnt a bad idea. Especially seeing as I got about 10-12k rounds through it in 8 months ownership. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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