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as promised, high quality pics of my fullsized G36 with long inner barrel!   It now shoots 470-500 fps. I had a max of even 517 fps and I shoot it in my attic while its wintertime in Belgium right n

I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price     Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi.

To start with, you need to go from this: To this: Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sur

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Can anybody reccommend a red dot sight that is able to cope with the recoil. Have a 552 acm/element one which just turns off after every shot. Not looking for anything to fancy (or expensive). Cheers

 

G&P 552, worked great on my g39, working great on my open bolt M4 :)

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A possible easy fix I just thought of, is there anyway to put a spacer behind the negative end of the battery? I'm assuming one of the batteries is losing contact with positive connector when the recoil is forcing the spring to compress, which is why is turns off. Figure out a way to prevent it from losing contact, and you just saved yourself from having to buy another EOTech. Hope this helps.

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Can anyone give me some tips for taking the barrel nut off? I've read Kruks guide back in the thread about stripping the barrel down but I'm falling at the first hurdle.

So far I've tried the good old "receiver between your knees, and torque it like you're a dodge viper, An angry dodge viper" method but it just looks like I'm going to bend my screw driver. Is it thread locked on and if so any tips on loosening it? Also it is a standard thread isn't it? lefty loosey and all that.

 

Also does anyone know of a way to drop the fps slightly without fitting an npas? I've got a CQB game on sunday and I'm about 25-30fps over atm.

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use a torch heat the nut for a few seconds then it will turn easy. also to tune the fps lower glue an oring behind the float valve.

 

 

That sounds like a poor idea considering the surrounding material is plastic polymer... Follow at your own risk.

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That sounds like a poor idea considering the surrounding material is plastic polymer... Follow at your own risk.

That's what I thought too. I just applied a little more brute force and ignorance and it eventually moved. I did bend the tip of my screwdriver in the process though.

It seems WE really like their thread lock.

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You insert a large flat head screwdriver in one of the grooves, pull the gun upside down tight against your body and twist gently but firmly with enough force and it will let go sooner or later. If your tools bend or break before the nut, get some better tools.

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I did have a similar problem - but it seemed to resolve itself over time.

 

Just as a query, I presume the same thing happens with loaded mags as well? (did you remove the bb follower as well?)Moreover, mine does still stutter slightly if I fire it upwards in the air - just try seeing what happens when you fire it downwards.

 

Oh, and make sure the wheel on the hammer can spin as freely as possible

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kull,

 

first of all the recoil is weak even on semi. i run my g39c with 134a and it kicks harder than that.

 

the full auto arm is bent back too much in effect it is an mm shorter in height, it might not be touching the bolt. when i put in the trigger pack on the receiver i sometimes need to pull the bolt just a little cause sometimes it hits the step on the bolt. on your vid it doesnt hit it so the arm might be too short since you bent it.

 

when you manually cock the hammer, halfway before the hammer locks down does the knocker stay out first? or does the knocker come in, in sync with the hammer? the knocker should be protruding and should only go in right before the hammer clicks in the cocked position.

 

can you also use your original trigger set not the ratech? bring it back to stock config first.

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kull,

 

first of all the recoil is weak even on semi. i run my g39c with 134a and it kicks harder than that.

 

the full auto arm is bent back too much in effect it is an mm shorter in height, it might not be touching the bolt. when i put in the trigger pack on the receiver i sometimes need to pull the bolt just a little cause sometimes it hits the step on the bolt. on your vid it doesnt hit it so the arm might be too short since you bent it.

 

when you manually cock the hammer, halfway before the hammer locks down does the knocker stay out first? or does the knocker come in, in sync with the hammer? the knocker should be protruding and should only go in right before the hammer clicks in the cocked position.

 

can you also use your original trigger set not the ratech? bring it back to stock config first.

 

The valve locker works, so that it actually stay forward until the disconnector/trigger engages.

 

Bent back auto sear actuator bar in my opinion doesnt affect this as the cock n click test works fine. And its really easy to engage the auto sear...easier than when it was new.

 

As for original trigger set I don't have that unfortunately.

 

I found out apparently one of my mags works fine on full auto, this led me to believe its the mag issue. I tried adjusting the inner magazine height in relation with external shell. It didnt seem to affect. When I tried to remove the gas release valve it broke my Shooter Design Valve key x.x

Edited by kullwarrior
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I'm having pretty much the same issue with full auto as kullwarrior. I've done most of the checks too and can't find anything that looks wrong. I made an observation 10 minutes ago while doing some maintenance/tinkering and I noticed that when fired in full auto, the bolt does a full cycle and then almost half of another cycle before going into full battery before the next shot. This happens regardless of single shot fire or long bursts when the selector is in full auto. Set to semi, the cycle is perfect.

 

I'm relatively new to GBBRs so I don't know what this extra half a cycle means, anyone care to enlighten me? It seems to be what's causing the sluggish full auto fire for me.

Edited by Soppatorsk
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I just received my new WE G39K yesterday, and I really like what I've seen of it so far. After many hours familiarizing myself with the rifle, installing upgrade parts, and firing it in an effort to tune its output, these are some of my initial findings:

 

 

Straight out of the box, this rifle is a monster!

 

In unmodified form, it launched .25 BBs at 425 fps, using Coleman brand propane, at 20°C. A follow up test, later in the day, using duster gas, saw .25 BBs averaging 295 fps, at 23°C. Back to propane, and with the RA-Tech NPAS valve now installed, velocities averaging 394 fps were observed under 27°C temperatures.

 

So far, all velocities witnessed with propane are far in excess of local field limits. To get down to acceptable velocity, the rifle will have to output no more than 350 fps with .25 BBs (about equivalent to 400 fps with .20 BBs). I'd be happier with even more margin, say about 325 fps.

 

The NPAS valve has velocities heading downward, but I'm going to have to develop a better understanding of how it works in conjunction with the rifle's nozzle before I can properly tune the system. I don't know if the valve should be mostly opened or almost closed, or how much I should trim off the tabs on the piston. It all seems a bit daunting at this point.

 

 

I've read that many users experience slight over-hop, even with the hop-up unit set to its lowest setting. I experienced that too, but solved the issue by removing the stock hop-up nub, and replacing it with an “H” shaped SCS, or “Shredder Concave Spacer”. The stock nub is noticeably thicker than any nub I've ever encountered – I'd say it's too thick for this application. Now, with the Shredder, I'm getting a beautiful, flat trajectory over huge distance.

 

While I had the hop-up system disassembled, I took the opportunity to apply a thin wrap of Teflon tape around the hop-up rubber and down the barrel about 2cm. I've noticed some users report this helps stabilize the inner barrel. In my case, I did it with the hope of forming a more airtight seal between the hop-up rubber and the barrel. In any event, it doesn't hurt anything, and it may even help.

 

 

A comment I've read often is that the barrel nut is on so tight, extraordinary means must be employed to remove it. On my rifle, I used a section of 1/8th inch flat steel as a makeshift wrench, inserted it into one of the slots, then carefully loosened the barrel nut. I would not advise using a flat blade screwdriver for this, as the blade will surely be too thin and the tapering will work against you. Using a flat bar of steel seems much safer.

 

 

Once I'd gotten the inner barrel out of the rifle, I thought it might be a good idea to run some cleaning patches through it. I'm glad I did, because it was extremely filthy. I used a dozen patches before I had it cleaned, and some of the first patches picked up specks of brass and other flecks of metal. The inside of the outer barrel also needed cleaning, as there was quite a bit of debris in there too. The stock inner barrel is a stout 34cm long 6.03mm tight bore, made of thick brass. RA-Tech makes a replacement 6.01 tight bore, but with getting velocities under control being such a daunting issue, I don't see myself ever wanting a barrel which will, again, boost BB velocities.

 

 

A popular modification recommended for the WE G39 is to replace part #125, listed as an M3x3 screw (a 3mm allen head screw, 3mm long) with a similar fastener that's 5mm long. Early production models may have benefitted from this mod, but my rifle came from the factory with an M3x5 already installed.

 

 

There are several parts changes I've made that I'd like to recommend to my fellow G39K owners:

 

I replaced the WE aluminum flash hider with a Classic Army G36K flash hider made of steel. The CA unit is noticeably heavier, and I like the improved balance that extra weight provides.

 

I also replaced the original charging handle, made of reinforced polymer, with a CNC'd aluminum unit from NeBula. The two parts look absolutely identical, but the aluminum handle should stand up longer to repeated use. The NeBula came from Tokyo Model Company in Hong Kong and sells for $28 USD. To swap out the handle, all it took was the removal of a single pin.

 

I similarly installed a WE IdZ stock and top rail. The stock folds, same as the original skeleton stock, but is adjustable for pull, and has a cheek rest with three settings. The top rail is a simplified design, featuring folding back-up sights, which snap crisply up or down. I've taken advantage of the increased amount of available rail space, and mounted a clone 3.4x Elcan scope at the back end. I'm hopeful this robust unit will handle the rifle's fairly stiff recoil.

 

 

The only portion of the rifle I haven't tackled in depth is the trigger group. For now, I intend to check the entire assembly for loose fasteners, then lubricate it with Break-Free CLP, the synthetic lubricant of choice for all my firearms going back many, many years. On the exterior of the bolt carrier group I've been happy using Phil Waterproof Grease, but I'm still searching for the right lubricant for the inner parts of the BCG. None of my usual choices have given me the smoothness of function I experienced with the original factory applied lubricant.

 

 

That's all I have to report at this stage. My G39K shows plenty of promise. I've made excellent headway on it so far, but I have to focus now on getting the velocity under control, so I can use this in local games.

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Maybe WE have reworked the sights on newer issue G39s?

 

I took the rail off my G39, put it on my Ares G36, and didn't have to touch the sights, they were perfectly zeroed. That's the rear peep sight anyway - I never checked the notch sight.

 

The over-hop I was seeing (through my scope) was definitely caused by excessive backspin on the BBs. I could see them rise throughout their flight. Anyway, I've got that problem licked.

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