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as promised, high quality pics of my fullsized G36 with long inner barrel!   It now shoots 470-500 fps. I had a max of even 517 fps and I shoot it in my attic while its wintertime in Belgium right n

I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price     Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi.

To start with, you need to go from this: To this: Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sur

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Has anyone been able to purchase things from RA-Tech's website? I've been trying for three days now and every time I get the same message: "authorization to paypal failed"

 

I tried emailing them the first day and I still have no response. :(

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No, I wasn't clear enough. I never even make it to paypal. When you get to the step that takes you from RA-T's website to paypal's website so you can log in and pay, instead of going to paypal I get that error message on RA-T's site.

No, I wasn't clear enough. I never even make it to paypal. When you get to the step that takes you from RA-T's website to paypal's website so you can log in and pay, instead of going to paypal I get that error message on RA-T's site.

 

I had this a couple of weeks ago when ordering parts from them Would take ages to load through there website and then would time out. I placed my order late at night and it went through ok. May I ask which parts are you after? Have you tried

http://www.tacticalquartermaster.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=52_57&osCsid=606ef92002816931469acff6b836ed4d

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I dont get it with this overhopping....my rifle does what it wants...after aprox. 15m the bb goes up in the air.

I tried the RA-Rubber + normal bukking

RA-Rubber + H bukking (which didnt fit in the hopupunit)

Standard-Rubber + normal bukking

 

I even get the half moon shaped thing damaged, which is jused to ajust the hop-up, as i was trying to force the H shaped bukking into place....need help....please

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I dont get it with this overhopping....my rifle does what it wants...after aprox. 15m the bb goes up in the air.

I tried the RA-Rubber + normal bukking

RA-Rubber + H bukking (which didnt fit in the hopupunit)

Standard-Rubber + normal bukking

 

I even get the half moon shaped thing damaged, which is jused to ajust the hop-up, as i was trying to force the H shaped bukking into place....need help....please

Are you using the stock iron sight? Those are accurate, don't rely on them (unless you're shooting someone 2m away from you)

 

The H nub will work, you need to make sure its center though.

As for the moon shape thing damage, I did that to mine as well, I use super glue and it held up fine.

 

 

What G36 are you running? the E? K? C?

 

I have the E version and Stock rubber & nub hop up off was perfect trajectory for 0.2g, The G39 can overhop 0.40g if you turn it to the max (all the way CCW)

 

 

 

On a note, I just got off with Johnny from RA-Tech, THEY GOT THE HANDGUARD KIT IN STOCK! You need to ask them though, show them the Airsoft Global page and they'll know what you are talking about.

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I had this a couple of weeks ago when ordering parts from them Would take ages to load through there website and then would time out. I placed my order late at night and it went through ok. May I ask which parts are you after? Have you tried

http://www.tacticalquartermaster.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=52_57&osCsid=606ef92002816931469acff6b836ed4d

 

I need the NPAS so I can't use them. Bah, this is really annoying <_<

 

.......

On a note, I just got off with Johnny from RA-Tech......

 

that's what she said!

 

 

 

 

sorry, couldn't resist :P

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I think this might help some folks when adjusting their hop-up units:

 

Airsoft_G36_Hop_Up_Adjustment.jpg

And just for clarification, the hop-up "bucking" is the rubber sleeve that fits around the barrel. The tiny rubber or plastic roller is most often called a "nub".

Afraid not cheif.

Our ejection ports look like this

2011-08-05155145.jpg

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I'm still trying to get my G39's velocity under control. Every other aspect of the rifle's performance is fine, but it's still too hot for use in games.

 

With the NPAS valve (turned three full turns CW) to wide open, velocity with .25 BBs is a smokin' 433 fps. Closing the valve (turning it CCW until it seats), and theoretically choking off the gas flow completely, only reduces velocity to 429 fps. It's like the NPAS valve has absolutely zero effect on the rifle's function.

 

I'm so confused... :huh:

 

Most other users report their guns have lower velocity, even with the NPAS valve set wide open, and they have to modify their nozzles by cutting down the two plastic lugs inside the rear portion of the nozzle. My gun seems to be the opposite.

 

Initially, I thought filing down the two lugs lead to reduced velocities, so I did that in my gun too. Now I'm thinking I should've left them alone. I see where some users instead remove the lugs completely and file notches across the top of the rear nozzle. If I've made a mistake by shortening my lugs, I can probably recover from that mistake by cutting notches into the rear nozzle.

 

Anyway, I hope that seems understandable. If you've ever torn down a G39, you can probably visualize what I'm dealing with. I'd just like to know if other users have had to overcome a similar issue.

 

Just as a thought in closing: On WE's website, they now list a "Canada Only" version of the G39, with velocity rated at 430+ fps (to get around some unique Canadian importation requirements, I'd imagine). Also, Evike in the U.S. advertises a special high velocity version of the G39 (500 fps). I'm wondering if my rifle isn't like those two versions, and therefore producing greater velocity than models previously sold in Canada. If that's the case, I may have to install a different nozzle in order to get my fps down to usable levels.

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Yeah, I did read that. At the time, I couldn't properly visualize the relationship between parts.

 

In my case, the two lugs/prongs were never long enough to keep the gun from being too hot. I've seen photos other users have posted, before and after modifying their lugs, and I see that mine were never as long as their's.

 

All this makes me think, more and more, this particular gun was built for higher velocities right from the factory. To bring the velocity down, I'll need to replace my nozzle or find a way to keep the NPAS valve from opening as much.

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Okay, issue solved.

 

It seems WE recently started making a special version of the G39 for the Canadian market, designed to shot hotter than international versions (it all has to do with our replica firearms import restrictions). Therefore, my gun was simply doing what it was designed to do. To overcome that, I dropped in an O-ring spacer between the NPAS valve and the (shorter than normal) lugs on the rear portion of the nozzle. That keeps the NPAS from opening all the way, and brings the velocity down to levels safe enough for our games.

 

Now, I can get on with gaming my G39. :punk:

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Okay, after fielding the gun quite a bit (2500 rounds or so), and at really high temperatures I can say (Summer in Greece is rediculously hot 35 celcius+) showed me that the gun is really sturdily built. Only problems so far were my firing and hammer pin that fell off, which were really easy to replace. (And cheap)

And that leads me to a question for the guys that got the RA-TECH parts. Are they worth it? Or should I just keep going and replacing the parts that fail?

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Out of interest to those whom did the Teflon tape mod on their hop units, has your held?

 

I just opened my G39 up to find all the tape had vanished and seemingly been vaporised and coated various bits around the hop unit. (Barrel, inner barrel, the unit itself and the holder)

 

Seems teflon tape + propane is a bad idea.

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And that leads me to a question for the guys that got the RA-TECH parts. Are they worth it? Or should I just keep going and replacing the parts that fail?

 

Im not sure I can recommend RA-Tech parts.

I replaced my worn trigger group with a full RA-Tech kit and have been experiencing odd issues since.

 

For instance on my last skirmish occasionally in semi I would get a low powered shot, which was quite obvious from the sound.

This may have been helped by rain however, as since I have been unable to replicate this.

Also, auto now stutters occasionally.

 

Finally and probably the most worrying is that the hammer is eating into the bolt quite rapidly.

There is now a good chunk missing from the bottom and Im finding very small shards of metal in the gun.

 

Considering it took about 10-12k rounds until my trigger group needed replacing, I would actually think you are better off getting the cheaper stock parts.

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Hmm exact symptom I have....

 

Hard kicking semi auto, occassionaly (1-5%) weak on semi

Auto always stutter (ROF less than 500 for sure) and stop because auto sear did not trip

 

The funny thing for me is some magazine I have you can fire fine on full auto others are semi auto only.

I thought it was the magazine issue because I use Gasket Maker on all my mags to stop leaking.

 

Did your problem resolve when you switch the trigger parts? (if so which parts?)

I know my bolt carrier (both) looks pretty beat up, but it doesn't seem to hamper its performence. Need to keep pushing RA-Tech to make steel carrier though...

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