ollie_ty Posted April 27, 2012 Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 (edited) Maybe. If someone helps me solve this G39 feeding issue first! I just don't really like writing reviews because I dont feel I'm gud enuf wiv my wordz ennit. Thats why my MP9 'review' was just pictures. Also, please wait till I have a decent camera which should be the end of May, i've just sold mine to buy a Nikon D7000 at the end of May Im going to stress test the SRCs bolt catch, the way it catches the nozzle is alarming, but should only be a concern if weak metal is used. Edited April 27, 2012 by ollie_ty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted April 27, 2012 Report Share Posted April 27, 2012 Maybe. If someone helps me solve this G39 feeding issue first! Had this issue a couple of times, 2 reasons I can think of.Nozzle O-ring is deformed, I swapped mine for one I found in an O-ring set from hardware stores. The magazines' top rubber is blown out, push it back in. Also GBBs are kind of sensitive to what BBs you use in them, I had trouble with BB King and G&G BBs in my guns. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted April 28, 2012 Report Share Posted April 28, 2012 OK, cool. I shall await a review filled with super duper photos then ha. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Bankz, Did you ever have feeding issues When lowering the FPS? Im SURE thats the culprit for my double feeding on full auto. Never, though it was allways set to 340fps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 I learned a neat trick to lower the FPS of any WE based OB gun to acceptable levels from Renegade Cow. Basically, take a piece of polycarb plastic and make a hole smaller than the hole present in the nozzle. Make it as close to the shape and size of the opening at the back of the nozzle (right before where the spring sits when you take the nozzle it apart) and drop it in. The smaller size constricts the amount of propellant that powers the BB and drops the FPS. Did it to my WE AK and it went from 460 to 380. Same deal with my WE SCAR - from 500 to 400. Hope that helps. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigtony Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 I learned a neat trick to lower the FPS of any WE based OB gun to acceptable levels from Renegade Cow. Basically, take a piece of polycarb plastic and make a hole smaller than the hole present in the nozzle. Make it as close to the shape and size of the opening at the back of the nozzle (right before where the spring sits when you take the nozzle it apart) and drop it in. The smaller size constricts the amount of propellant that powers the BB and drops the FPS. Did it to my WE AK and it went from 460 to 380. Same deal with my WE SCAR - from 500 to 400. Hope that helps. Can you take a picture of this, and where did you get the material from. This sounds interesting Quote Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 I'll try to get pictures up later today. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bigtony Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Much appreciated Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 If you look in the KC-02 10/22 thread in Sniping Haven it shows how to do it on a 10/22 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Basic-Wedge Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 (edited) [media=] [/media] I wouldn't try this with my G39, but I'm impressed a hell it can be done! Edited June 7, 2012 by Basic-Wedge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Thats pretty groovy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 Not sure this has been brought up or not, but apparently while browsing X-Fire it seems PDI makes an entire trigger mech replacement parts. http://www.x-fire.org/we_gbb/g39/assembly/e.assembly.html I'd consider getting a G39 JUST to get those parts LOL. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
carabinero Posted July 19, 2012 Report Share Posted July 19, 2012 (edited) Not sure this has been brought up or not, but apparently while browsing X-Fire it seems PDI makes an entire trigger mech replacement parts. http://www.x-fire.org/we_gbb/g39/assembly/e.assembly.html I'd consider getting a G39 JUST to get those parts LOL. Yeah, I almost regret selling mine... I really like that hammer , Iwas wondering about doing a mod to mine in order to have a wider roller to spread the load increasing durability and preventing Bolt cratering, I'd love to have a set like that foe my OB guns, but according to XE currency converter USD$150 its a lot of cash for me... Edited July 19, 2012 by carabinero Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 (edited) Not sure this has been brought up or not, but apparently while browsing X-Fire it seems PDI makes an entire trigger mech replacement parts. http://www.x-fire.org/we_gbb/g39/assembly/e.assembly.html I'd consider getting a G39 JUST to get those parts LOL. And then you gotta get a steel valve lock and knocker too, as well as the selector sear... Too much cash, and I am not so sure if the gun will even work properly for a long time after those upgrades. My G39C has been in lots of games and fired many rounds, had to change a worn sear and a valve knocker as well as a broken valve lock, and the gun is in perfect condition even when playing during the summer (Last game was around 38 degrees celcius) Although I am having some trouble with the bolt catch not working sometime, but I am sure it can be fixed with a really thin spacer underneath it.. Edited July 20, 2012 by Atsalakotos 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Anyone know where to get a valve delayer? Mine broke and it seems it might be model specific, my other delayer from my other open bolt M4s don't work on this thing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Anyone know where to get a valve delayer? Mine broke and it seems it might be model specific, my other delayer from my other open bolt M4s don't work on this thing. Just replace the valve knocker with a regular M4 / PDW / SCAR one and you are good to go. Only the valve knocker and delayer are different on the G39 from WE's older models. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Yeah, like I said, I need a valve delayer. My valve knocker is fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted July 20, 2012 Report Share Posted July 20, 2012 Yeah, like I said, I need a valve delayer. My valve knocker is fine. Yeah, your delayer from an open bolt M4, WILL work if you install an older type valve knocker also from your M4.I buy my replacements from airsoft buddy. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted July 21, 2012 Report Share Posted July 21, 2012 Yeah, your delayer from an open bolt M4, WILL work if you install an older type valve knocker also from your M4. I buy my replacements from airsoft buddy. Oh, okay then. Sorry, was a bit confused about that. I'll try that later today and see what will happen, thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Tried your fix didn't work for some reason. Still looking for a place to get the G36 part 66. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted July 22, 2012 Report Share Posted July 22, 2012 Tried your fix didn't work for some reason. Still looking for a place to get the G36 part 66. Part 66 is a little pin that holds the stock button in place....What you are looking for is part 91+92. And to confirm here is a link with the exploded diagram: http://www.greekairsoft.gr/manuals/manual.asp?Manufacturer=WE-TECH&Filename=WE+G36+G39c+GBB+explode+diagram.pdf But, are you sure you are not getting something wrong? My G39 has had an open bolt M4 valve lock and knocker for ages. The only different parts between the G39 and M4 are the valve knocker the valve lock, trigger box, trigger and safety. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Yeah, my mistake. I've referred to that valve delayer using the M4 parts verbiage, sorry if that caused confusion. Will have a go at it again, but I'm pretty sure I used the right parts, it's still not fixing it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 Just got a G39k on Friday, and I already love it. I went ahead and bought a hopup spacer with it but have yet to install it. Thanks everyone for this thread, it's been extremely helpful! I'm still a little scared to remove the flash hider. I've seen that you're supposed to clamp the barrel and turn the flash hider clockwise to disengage it, but I'm afraid of scratching my barrel. Any tips? Also, I've had gas guns before but I'm a little unsure as to where to lube this thing. Any tips on that? Also, I already ordered the tactical bolt release. That thing is freaking hard to press! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 1. Wrap it in a tea towel first. 2. I like to use some grease on the rails the bolt slides along. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 1. Good tip! Didn't think of that. 2. Is there a good type of grease you can recommend? I only have silicone oil at the moment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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